Re: [Randon] Food Poisoning

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John Hughes

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Feb 5, 2011, 10:00:09 AM2/5/11
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Two of the leading causes of food poisoning are:

Food that isn't kept cold enough. At a salad bar everything should be on ice, not just on a cold tray or cold water.  If you're not sure, pick up a container and look. If it's not on ice, any raw produce is probably okay, but avoid any prepared food such as dressings, pasta salad, etc.

Food that isn't kept hot enough.  At a hot food bar everything should be steaming, not just under a heat lamp.

When I was racing RAAM many of us would only eat food prepared by our crews for 48-hours before the race to avoid problems in restaurants.

The Mayo Clinic has an excellent page on food poisoning:

     http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/food-poisoning/DS00981

The Mayo Clinic is an excellent resource on all kinds of health issues of interest to cyclists (and others).

I included a section on preventing and dealing with digestive issues in my eBook Stop Cycling's Showstoppers, which is available from RoadBikeRider.com.

Finally, we're each an experiment of one.  I remember standing in line for breakfast with Bill Bryant and Lois Springsteen in PBP '99.  The French riders ahead of us were getting red wine!  Eat and drink whatever works for you ... as long as it follows the one way principle, which John Lee Ellis taught me:  it goes down and stays down.

Cheers,
John

On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 10:56 AM, <randon+...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Group: http://groups.google.com/group/randon/topics

    "russell...@yahoo.com" <russell...@yahoo.com> Feb 03 02:14PM -0800 ^
     
    On Feb 3, 12:01 pm, "littlecirclesvt.com :: mike beganyi"
    > apparently being tested in Finland:
     
    > http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/tech-feature-the-work-of-wheel-en...
     
    > Wider is faster...
     
    Not really. The text says:
     
    " For an equivalent make and model of tyre, Wheel Energy claims the
    25mm-wide size will measure five percent lower rolling resistance on
    average – the supposed average limit of human detection – than the
    more common 23mm-wide one."
     
    Now some people might automatically assume that a 28mm tire will have
    less rolling resistance than a 25mm tire. And a 32mm tire will have
    less rolling resistance than a 28mm tire. And a 35mm tire will have
    less rolling resistance than a 32mm tire. And a 40mm tire will have
    less rolling resistance than a 35mm tire. And a 50mm tire will have
    less rolling resistance than a 40mm tire. Etc., etc. These people
    may be 100% wrong. Extrapolation works sometimes, but not always.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     

    "William D. Volk" <willia...@gmail.com> Feb 03 04:07PM -0800 ^
     
    Going from 559x32's at 100psi to 559x47's at 70psi didn't change my commute times, maybe it even improved them.
     
    For nighttime riding it's great to ride fat. Tires that is.
     
    Bill
     
    On Feb 3, 2011, at 3:04 PM, littlecirclesvt.com :: mike beganyi wrote:
     

     

    Jan Heine <hei...@earthlink.net> Feb 03 04:20PM -0800 ^
     
    >25mm-wide size will measure five percent lower rolling resistance on
    >average - the supposed average limit of human detection - than the
    >more common 23mm-wide one."
     
    It all depends on the road surface. The smoother the road surface,
    the narrower a tire you can run without much of a performance penalty.
     
    We found that on average roads, a 25 mm tire is _significantly_
    faster than a 23 mm, which is much faster than a 20 mm.
     
    On very rough roads, like cobblestones, a 38 mm tire is faster than a
    25 mm tire.
     
    From my experience, anything narrower than 25 mm will be slow on the
    roads most randonneurs ride. There appears to be a plateau between 30
    and 40 mm, where performance doesn't change much. We need more
    testing to confirm this, and of course, it depends on the road
    surface. If you ride on a wooden track, 40 mm tires are wider than
    you need, and your wind resistance is a little higher than need be.
     
    I prefer 40 mm tires, because they are as fast as 25 mm tires on
    smooth roads, and faster and more comfortable on rough roads. Plus,
    they allow me to venture on gravel roads...
     
    We covered some of the science and testing behind this at
     
    http://janheine.wordpress.com/2010/10/18/science-and-bicycles-1-tires-and-pressure/
     
    Jan Heine
    Editor
    Bicycle Quarterly
    2116 Western Ave.
    Seattle WA 98121
    http://www.bikequarterly.com
     
    Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
    --

     

    "Alan Walker" <wal...@netcon.net.au> Feb 04 09:34PM +1100 ^
     
    What size tyres are used by top racing cyclists (e.g., in Tour de France) and why?

     

    Jan Heine <hei...@earthlink.net> Feb 04 08:54AM -0800 ^
     
    >What size tyres are used by top racing cyclists (e.g., in Tour de
    >France) and why?
     
    From the 1970s onward, it used to be 21.5 mm tubulars. About 5 years
    ago, most pros went to 23 mm. Now some are riding 25 mm.
     
    Why are they going to wider tires? It's not that the roads in France
    are getting worse...
     
    Some of the reasons are stated here:
     
    http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/cervelo-testteam-get-testing-in-belgium
     
    Interestingly, Cervelo believes that 25 mm is best. Coincidentally,
    25 mm is the widest that fits their frames. So they cannot test wider
    tires without making new frames.
     
    As a side note, narrower tires, run at higher pressures, _feel_
    faster to most riders, myself included. I believe this is because
    higher tire pressures make the bike vibrate at higher frequencies.
     
    All things being equal, higher vibration frequencies mean higher
    speed - you are hitting the road irregularities in faster succession
    the faster you go.
     
    So pumping up your tires harder fools your body into thinking that
    you go faster, even though your speed is the same.
     
    It appears that professional racers, as well as many others (myself
    included), used to ride very narrow tires because they felt faster,
    even though they actually were slower.
     
    With all this discussion of tire width, it's important to remember
    that width is only a secondary factor in determining tire
    performance. Much more important is the casing construction. Our tire
    tests have shown - once again - that supple casings roll fastest.
     
    Not coincidentally, top racing cyclists have been using hand-made
    tires with extra-supple casings for at least the last 70 years. That
    is one piece of cycling equipment that has not changed at all since
    the days when PBP was a professional race.
     
    Jan Heine
    Editor
    Bicycle Quarterly
    2116 Western Ave.
    Seattle WA 98121
    http://www.bikequarterly.com
     
    Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

     

    "William D. Volk" <willia...@gmail.com> Feb 03 10:23AM -0800 ^
     
    Yep. Total agreement.
     
    Personally my choice of diet has everything to do with my physiology ... it's not ideological in the least.
     
    Courtesy and gratitude are good things. That chicken soup at the Rainbow 200 event was VERY tempting. The smell was intoxicating.
     
    William Volk
     
    On Feb 3, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Veronica Tunucci wrote:
     

     

    "Veronica Tunucci" <vero...@comcast.net> Feb 03 10:48AM -0800 ^
     
    Personally my choice of diet is more gustatory, however I do read labels,
    follow the latest food fads, etc. And I can't resist those bakery stops.
    White flour, butter and sugar....great cycling food.
     
    I waited for the homemade chicken soup at the Grand Tour Double more than a
    few years ago and it was worth the wait. How special was that, the
    volunteers made homemade chicken soup and were cutting up the chicken to add
    to the broth as we waited.
     
    V
     
    -----Original Message-----
    From: William D. Volk [mailto:willia...@gmail.com]
    Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 10:24 AM
    To: Veronica Tunucci; randon subscribers
    Subject: Re: [Randon] food and drink for cycling
     
    Yep. Total agreement.
     
    Personally my choice of diet has everything to do with my physiology ...
    it's not ideological in the least.
     
    Courtesy and gratitude are good things. That chicken soup at the Rainbow
    200 event was VERY tempting. The smell was intoxicating.
     
    William Volk
     
    On Feb 3, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Veronica Tunucci wrote:
     
    > When someone offers me "provided" food, I typically just say "thank you"
    or
     
    > V
     
    > -----Original Message-----
    > From: ran...@googlegroups.com [mailto:ran...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
    Of
     
    > I'll add that if you have been Vegan for some time, cheese and meat can
    > throw your digestive system into a real state of upset.
     
    > I do eat fish on occasion, but I don't think I could do even that on a
    long
    > ride.
     
    > I keep it simple ... diluted electrolytes to drink, a Cliff Bar every
    hour,
    > and honey/almond butter (raw)/banana sandwiches as a 'main' meal
    (breakfast
     
    >>> I think my favorite "provided" food is the soon-to-be world-famous
    > tortilla
    >>> wraps provided by Susan Plonsky (RBA, Ariz.). Those are worth the
    10-hour
    >>> drive to Arizona! (Ham and/or turkey, cheese and a little potato salad
    in
    >>> them along with other secret ingredients that she is always changing so
    I

     

    Bob the Wheelbuilder <bob...@gmail.com> Feb 03 06:38PM -0800 ^
     
    Disclaimer: I'm quite new to radonneuring. Last year was my first
    full series, but I've done double centuries and other long rides for a
    decade or so.
     
    During the Santa Cruz 600k, the first 1/3 was pretty hot, and I must
    have gotten behind on calories and sodium. I began obsessing about
    eating at Taco Bell. I'd never eaten as many calories or fat while
    riding as the meal I was dreaming of, so I was a little apprehensive
    about what might happen, but anything healthy or "performance-y" was
    unappealing. I ended up getting 2 crunchy tacos and a 32 ounce
    Mountain Dew as I was riding out of Santa Cruz... it was food of the
    gods, I tell you.
     
    I ended up eating the same again in Marina on the way out to King City
    and on the way back I stopped at the Marina Taco Bell once more for a
    crunchy taco and a bean burrito. I never would have thought I could
    eat that much and ride, but since I wasn't going at a killer pace, it
    worked out great for me. Since, I've eaten a hot dog on several
    permanents and, amazingly each went (and stayed) down fine. The
    lesson, for me at least, seems to be I can eat what I crave and turn
    it into energy as long as I'm not riding too hard. I wouldn't want a
    gut bomb like this just before a long climb or other big effort, and
    such junk food isn't good for me in the long run, but after many
    straight hours of gel blocks and energy drinks, I do better with some
    variety, sometimes even if it's greasy junk food.
     
    Other things that have worked great for me at one time or another are
    chocolate milk, salted nut rolls, cup o noodles, peach rings, V-8
    juice and Pringle's potato chips.
     
    YMMV

     

    Kevin Foust <kdf...@gmail.com> Feb 03 07:53PM -0800 ^
     
    It all depends upon the pace for me. If I'm cruising at less than 88%
    lactate threshold I can eat just about anything at any time. Literally,
    anything. Brawurst! Love 'em. Steak and eggs, bring it on! Taquitos,
    Carnitas Torta, whatever, it all converts to energy at that easy pace. When
    I start hitting 95% of lactate threshold what I eat and when I eat starts
    becoming REALLY important. I normally switch to an engineered food of some
    sort like Perpetuem and eat and drink at 10-15 minute intervals.
     
    Under any conditions at controls I have a chocolate milk, orange juice (NOT
    from concentrate) and V-8 juice. I don't necessarily have all these at
    every control but at least the milk. I use Gatorade as a general rule for
    my hydration choice and supplement with Succeed Scaps for sodium
    replenishment in hot conditions. I am pretty durable in terms of my food
    tolerances but have a strong preference for fresh fruit during the ride and
    at controls. I also like Fig Newtons for road food and find them a nice
    alternative to energy bars although they aren't quite as durable as Cliff
    bars.
     
    I almost always carry a couple of gels, Hammer Gel is my current favorite,
    and a couple of pieces of cardboard, I mean energy bars, in case I miss my
    estimate on my eating requirements. For example wet and cold weather seems
    to increase my energy, and therefore eating, requirements to a noticeable
    degree. You can't always predict the weather.
     
    My worst eating mistake was to get poisoned at a restaurant in Gaudelupe CA
    on a tour with some buddies. 2/3 of us were poisoned. It took a couple of
    days of riding to shake that one off. Lesson learned: don't be quite so
    daring with food out on the bike.
     
    I never fight a craving when I'm on the road. If I "need" lima bean soup, I
    try to find it. I once spent the last two hours of a tour thinking about
    chicken-fried steak and mashed potatoes at a Cajun restaurant near my home.
    I had that steak for dinner.
     
    Later,
    Kevin
     
     
     
     
     
    --
     
    My randonneuring blog. <http://randonneurswnd.blogspot.com/>
    Goal: Texas Rando Stampede 1200k in May then PBP 2011 1200k in
    August.<http://randonneurswnd.blogspot.com/>

     

    Donald Perley <donp...@gmail.com> Feb 04 06:29AM -0500 ^
     
    > on a tour with some buddies.  2/3 of us were poisoned.  It took a couple of
    > days of riding to shake that one off.  Lesson learned: don't be quite so
    > daring with food out on the bike.
     
    How was it daring to eat at a restaurant?
     
    My experience with food poisoning on a 600K was most likely from food
    at the overnight control. Given the timing of symptoms and when I
    arrived at the station, the food probably just sat way too long at
    inappropriate temperatures.

     

    SoCalRando <jswa...@yahoo.com> Feb 03 11:05AM -0800 ^
     
    Thank you all very much for your responses. After reading them I
    actually tried a number of various bags and as much as I'd like to
    like them, I find that I have a problem with the back of my thighs
    brushing them, and that the sway is indeed annoying when they've got
    some weight in them (I get out of the saddle fairly often when
    climbing and accelerating, and throw/swing the bike a fair amount). I
    have not tried the Bagman support, but have my seat pretty far forward
    on the rails and don't know if there would even be sufficient room to
    attach it.
     
    I also re-tried an old Topeak seatpost-attached trunk (with the 1/4"
    or so solid frame, not the stem-sized tubular one), and found as I
    remembered that it tends to oscillate (tail wagging the dog) when
    swinging the bike out of the saddle, not to mention that there's a
    weight limit. I do like the Topeak rack that has the matching trunk
    with fold-out panniers that slides and snaps on to the rack, but have
    interference issues with attaching it to the Ritchey Breakaway Cross
    frame (which has a significantly protruding semi-circular ridge that
    surrounds the top and back of the dropout, and is right next to the
    lower rack attachment point). The interference wasn't as bad with the
    Avenir rack I've used when we've gone touring since it has a thinner
    leg which I was able to file down and shim out of the way.
     
    When we've gone loaded touring, I've used large panniers in the back
    with as much as 45 pounds in the panniers and attached to the top of
    the rack. Once you get used to it, it's not a problem. Using the
    DayTrekkers for PBP, I'd probably never carry more than 15 pounds for
    both of us.
     
    So I think it does come down to riding style, position on the bike,
    and frame geometry as to what will work best. We're going to do a
    couple 400's and 600's this year, one each for time, and one each for
    enjoyment, and I'm going to run the prospective PBP setup on the
    "slow" ones to see how it works. I am going to see if there is a
    convenient way to attach some kind of front bag, because as one of you
    mentioned, it will be much more convenient for getting to the things
    you need often. I've got interrupter brake levers on the bar tops,
    and also mount my lights there so I'm not sure how that might work.
    Maybe I'll let Nicole deal with that since I'll be carrying everything
    else.
     
    Hopefully the input given in this thread has been valuable to others
    in addition to me who are still working out PBP storage/carrying
    issues.
     
    Thanks again.
     
    Jim
     

     

    Bill Gobie <bi...@billandlorene.com> Feb 03 12:00PM -0800 ^
     
    On Feb 3, 2011, at 11:05 AM, SoCalRando wrote:
     
    > have not tried the Bagman support, but have my seat pretty far forward
    > on the rails and don't know if there would even be sufficient room to
    > attach it.
     
    Sorry for not chiming in earlier. It's easy and cheap to hold a bag
    away from the seatpost with a short piece of PVC pipe, as illustrated
    here:
     
    http://thenewpracticality.blogspot.com/2009/09/two-tickets-to-carradice.html
     
    As for reducing sway, pull the straps as snug as possible. You could
    even punch some new holes in the straps.
     
    > and also mount my lights there so I'm not sure how that might work.
    > Maybe I'll let Nicole deal with that since I'll be carrying everything
    > else.
     
    A front bag is very convenient. I think it is worth some compromises,
    in your case re-inventing the front of your bike. I think you've no
    choice but to ditch the interruptor levers. Moving the lights to the
    fork crown or blades is not hard.
     
    Beware the temptation to hang a bag far enough away from the bars to
    clear the interruptor levers. Weight far in front of the steering axis
    has a much more deleterious effect on handling than the same weight
    close to the axis.
     
    As an experiment before you spend a lot of money, lash a crossbar onto
    your brake hoods and tie a brick or two (about 5-10 lbs) to it. See
    how it affects handling. Move the brick to the bar tops and compare.
     
    If your bike is happy with the brick far from the bars, you are
    probably ok to use any front bag. If your bike is sensitive to the
    weight, you should use a small bag that hangs right on the bars. I
    like the Brand V Boxy Bar Bag Rivendell sells:
     
    http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/brand-v-boxybar-bag/20-198
     
    Bill Gobie

     

    Steve Rice <sri...@gmail.com> Feb 03 03:56PM -0500 ^
     
    Bill wrote:
     
    > As for reducing sway, pull the straps as snug as possible. You could even
    > punch some new holes in the straps.
     
    I went one step further. I replaced the pull straps with 2 large zip ties
    on each side. I used 2 in case one broke it wouldn't fall. Instead of
    attaching the bag to my saddle, I attached the bag to a SQR uplift.
     
    Steve

     

 Topic: BMB Data
    "littlecirclesvt.com :: mike beganyi" <mike.b...@gmail.com> Feb 03 12:30PM -0800 ^
     
    If anyone has BMB split data points from previous rides, actual or
    projected or planned - I'd love to have a peek so I could start to
    layout a plan for the BMB Perm this August.
     
    Looking for times to controls, sleep, average speeds, etc. etc.

     

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Cheers,
John Hughes
www.coach-hughes.com
PO Box 18028
Boulder, CO 80308-1028

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