Thinking of going with a raw clear powdercoat

[Bruce Baker]

Has anyone taken their Sam Hillborne, stripped it and gone with a clear powder coat??  Would there be any downside to this??
I really like the looks of the protovelos I've seen and think it would be interesting have a Sam like that.  Any thoughts or comments??
Bruce

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

My Bombadil came that way, and after a summer right next to the salt water of the Intracoastal Waterway at the Jersey Shore it began to show some rust spots. Others with clear powder have had good experiences,though, I think.  If it won't get constant exposure to salt air, go for it if you like the look.  I thought it looked great.  Before repaint:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4249456177/in/set-72157624552118742/

 

Frame after repaint: 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815169169/in/set-72157624552118742

---

From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Baker
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 2:42 PM
To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Thinking of going with a raw clear powdercoat

Has anyone taken their Sam Hillborne, stripped it and gone with a clear powder coat??  Would there be any downside to this??
I really like the looks of the protovelos I've seen and think it would be interesting have a Sam like that.  Any thoughts or comments??
Bruce

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[Bruce Baker]

Won't be near the salt air but perhaps an epoxy clear coat maybe needed.  Any recommendations on who would be best to do this??

[Andy.M]

It was always my understanding that your going about it the wrong
way. Should be RCP first then repaint. To take off the paint that is
there now, you would need to use some sort of sandblasting, and the
raw metal underneath would lose its "raw" look. You would still see
the beauty of the brazing, but the tubes would have a nice even
"sanded" look to them.

-Andy, who has thought about doing this as well

On Aug 21, 12:32 pm, Bruce Baker <bkno...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Won't be near the salt air but perhaps an epoxy clear coat maybe needed.
> Any recommendations on who would be best to do this??
>
> On Tue, Aug 21, 2012 at 3:25 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J <
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

> Thomas.Alling...@skadden.com> wrote:
> > **

> > My Bombadil came that way, and after a summer right next to the salt water
> > of the Intracoastal Waterway at the Jersey Shore it began to show some rust
> > spots. Others with clear powder have had good experiences,though, I think.
> > If it won't get constant exposure to salt air, go for it if you like the
> > look.  I thought it looked great.  Before repaint:

> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4249456177/in/set-721576245...
>
> > Frame after repaint:
>
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815169169/in/set-721576245...
> >  ------------------------------
> >  *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> > rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Baker
> > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 21, 2012 2:42 PM
> > *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
> > *Subject:* [RBW] Thinking of going with a raw clear powdercoat

[Matt Beebe]

I have a bombadil that came with clear powdercoat on it, and it is not a problem as far as rust goes.    The only issue I have had is that it seems to have been applied a little thick in some areas, such as just beneath the fork crown, so some cracking / flaking off there.     Touched it up with clear nail polish and that worked.     It would have flaked if it were any color I believe.     The bonus is, if clear powdercoat rusts you'll see it right away.    Any other color powdercoat hides what could be going on beneath.     Not sure about wet paint options for clear, but I've heard it does not work as well as powdercoat clear.

[ted]

I have a clear coated Bombadill. I'm in the SF bay area, east bay,
past the oakland hills.
The frame was not spotlessly prepped before the powder coat went on.
There are areas with what I suspect is flux from the assembly. There
are some areas that might be a touch of oxidation, but more lace like
than spotting. I am very happy with it. If I do get concerned about
increasing rust I'll take it by RBW for a consult, but it doesn't seem
like its going to be an issue.
I have heard that folks in more corrosive environments (e.g. constant
sea breezes) can experience rust under clear powder coat. I think
customer satisfaction issues related to appearance of clear coated
bikes drove RBWs decision to move away from using it.
I don't think that pigment in powder coat (or its absence) changes the
bikes susceptibility to rust.

If you like the look and don't mind paying to redo a perfectly good
existing finish, go ahead and do it.

[cyclotourist]

What Andy said.

Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

**
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.” ― Neil deGrasse Tyson.

[Liesl]

I have a sand-blasted clear coated protovelo and I simply love it.  I think I got the frame in 2008 and built it up in 2009.  Since then, it's been my most go-to ride and has done modest service in my winter commuting here in Minneapolis (meaning snow).  There have been no problems with rust and any chipping has been less than the paint on my Saluki.  The brazing at the lugs looks like gold pin-striping.  Hvae no idea about taking paint off and then clear-coating; others on the list are are helpful on that end.  But I just wanted to say I really love it.

liesl

[kps]

I have a 2010 Rivendell Roadeo in RCP, and i've had no rust issues....love it.  also have a 1983 Serotta Nova Series that came to me with original candy blue paint and TONS of rust.  i had it stripped and powder coated clear (gloss).  absolutely love it.  it was sandblasted after being stripped of the candy blue, so it has an even overall "color"; similar, in fact, to my RAL 6022 powder coated Sycip.  I say go for it!  -kps

[rperks]

After a few years of abuse, damp coastal mornings my RCP Roadeo started to show some signs of rust at the lug edges.  The downfall of most coatings is surface prep.  The beauty of the RCP is the Raw, but that is also the weak link.  If you sandblast, it will be a different look, but probably hold up much better than RCP.  Note at this point you have little choice other than to blast. The next step in protection would be to pony up the $$$ for liquid clear over the clear powder.  You get a thinner high gloss topcoat, that will seal the micro cracks in the powder.  Note this, liquid clear, also works over colored powders.  I have heard reports that the liquid clear has hleped in some instances of rust bleed through on powder-coated bikes that see harsh duty.

When Waterford had to rework a fork dropout I mangled, the clear PC came back a mess of shatters and flaking.  I am not sure if it was the heat or cold setting the alignment.

Recently, last year or so, I have seen bikes on the web by Toyo, Tange and Ben's Cycle (Waterford) offered in clear.  I am curios to learn about how they are doing it.  Particularly since these are contractors that reputedly resisted Riv doing this, Riv backs off of the subject, and now it is "Cool" so said contractors are selling clear coated bikes through other channels? 

Rob (thinking too much about paint)
-
Oceanaircycles.com
Ventura, Ca

[William!]

Did go ahead with this project? Curious to see what a stripped/blasted frame looks like. My Atlantis will need a repaint someday soon…

[Eric Norris]

Downside would be that powdercoating doesn't protect against rust, unless you apply a paint primer first. 

Does Powder Coating prevent rust?

Powder Coating is durable and very long-lasting depending on its environment and how the items are used.  It is not, however, a rust prevention.  Pre-treatment and/or primer coating is required for longer coating life.  All exterior items should be primered and coated to fight corrosion. http://www.commpowder.com/pages/faq%20page/faq_page.htm/

Your frame may rust under the clear powdercoat.

Eric N

www.CampyOnly.com

CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com

Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

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[Steven Butcher]

Bruce, I'm new to RBW but check in often.  I'd like to give a plug for Groody Brothers in Kansas City,  Missouri.  They have a very informative website.  I've had them powder coat a frame which turned out nicely.  To remove the old paint, they used a glass bead blasting process which is much gentler to the metal than sandblasting.  I know they can do a clear powder coat.  I really like that raw metal look.  Good luck.  Steve. 

[Steve Palincsar]

Last I heard, those raw clearcoat powdercoated bikes rusted pretty quickly under the finish.  Has that changed?

[Tim Gavin]

I wanted to try this, so I recently had my vintage Schwinn KOM frame bead blasted.  My local powder coater wasn't convinced that his coatings would be as crystal clear as I'd like, so he hooked me up with a former employee of his who now paints auto finishes.  That gent is putting on a couple coats of clear paint, no primer.  I'll report back with photos once I get the frame back from the painter.

Tim

[William Henderson]

Nice. Please do, Tim.

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[Geoffrey]

One thing you could do is keep sanding and polishing until it's at a point that you like.  Heck, you could make it look like chrome.  No need to send to the powder coater, try P.C. Glisten, self leveling clear coat.  It dries unbelievably hard and is very easy to use. 

On Tuesday, August 21, 2012 at 1:41:57 PM UTC-5, Bruce Baker wrote:

[Steve Palincsar]

On 02/09/2015 06:08 PM, Geoffrey wrote:
> One thing you could do is keep sanding and polishing until it's at a
> point that you like. Heck, you could make it look like chrome. No
> need to send to the powder coater, try P.C. Glisten, self leveling
> clear coat. It dries unbelievably hard and is very easy to use.

And when it rusts under the clear coat, what then?

[ted]

Steve asks:

Last I heard, those raw clearcoat powdercoated bikes rusted pretty quickly under the finish.  Has that changed?

I doubt that it has changed. However I think the rate of rusting is quite dependent on the particular environment, so as to how fast rust accumulates YMMV.

Furthermore, with clear powdercoat at least you can see the rust. I don't believe adding pigment changes the rust reality. Out of sight may be out of mind, but it's not out of existence.

Anyway I have been perfectly happy with my clear coated Bombadil.

[Benedikt]

I was in R&E Bicycles here in Seattle about a week ago. I was there with a friend of mine who is thinking about having his 30 year old DeRosa repainted with a powder coat. R&E said they don't do powder coats because it allows moisture to get in and rust the frame. Better to go with an enamel. R&E has been making and painting their own bikes for 40 years.

On Tuesday, August 21, 2012 at 11:41:57 AM UTC-7, Bruce Baker wrote:

[Marc Irwin]

I've thought about that or a semi transparent color for my Hunq.  There are some powders produced specifically for corrosion resistance and are rated to withstand 3000+ hours of salt spray.  I'd look at Groody Bros. they have a couple of examples on their website or FB page.  I keep putting the idea aside when people start gooshing all over the paint job I have now.

Marc

[cyclotourist]

I have a clear powdercoat (not a clearcoat) on my Quickbeam, no rust. It spent time in damp Portland before coming to live with me in arid SoCal. 

I LOVE the look of the clear powdercoat and recommend it to anyone!

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Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal