It's an exciting looking bike, makes you think of the places you could go.
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Hi Luke,
Funny, my daily rider has been a 63 canti-Rom for years, and I'm looking forward to trying out my XL stock NFE.
Didn't mean to imply that tubing was identical between stock NFE and Rom. Both are 8-5-8 OS though. The non-stock NFE's like yours might be different.
My main motivation was more tire clearance and a chance to ride all these 650B tires.
Best,
joe broach
pdx or
Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
Hi everyone,
Reporting back now that I have had the NFE for a week. It's been great so far!
Thought I'd share my build and a few pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cwmcmillen/sets/72157656605491545
WHEELS: WTB KOM i25 rims/Compass Babyshoe Pass EL tubeless/SP dynohub/Hope Evo Pro 2/VO Noir 650B fenders (only front installed; got lazy)DRIVETRAIN: White Industries VBC crank 42x26/11-36 XT casssette/XT rd and CX 70 fdRACK etc: Haulin Colin for NFE/VO decaleur/Berthoud GB28. I used a Berthoud decaleur for 5 years on my Terraferma and thought it was great. But I decided to try the much cheaper VO decaleur. It's easy to set up (so is the Berthoud) and works well.Eriksen Ti Sweetpost/Brooks C17COCKPIT: started with VO rando bars I had around--too much reach to the breakes, for me; now 46cm Salsa Cowchippers on a Salsa 25 degree/8cm Guide Stem--so far awesome.
Did I miss anything?
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Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. Aristotle
The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. Dante
Steve,
Archive-URL: http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=internet-bob.11001.0138.eml From: Alex Wetmore <alex(AT)phred.org> Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 15:44:33 +0000 Subject: Re: [BOB] More Handling Terms Thoughts From: Mann, Dave [damann(AT)mitre.org] > I (perhaps incorrectly) tend to think of this stuff > in terms of how we talk about skis. I'm not much of a skier (although I'm probably going skiing today), but it seems like the dynamics of skis are different enough that the language might not cross over. Doesn't the side cut on skis give them an optimal turning radius that basically matches that side cut? A longer bicycle may not make sharp turns as easily as a shorter bicycle, but it isn't like a bicycle is designed to only turn a 20' radius and the tires are scrubbing if you make a tighter or more open turn. I think your terms are closer to the ones used for sea kayaking, where stability is almost always described (even by manufacturers) in terms of primary and secondary stability. Primary stability is how stable does the kayak feel in the water, do small body movements easily rotate it. Secondary stability is how easily does the boat actually flip over when you are near the lean limits. Kayaks such as my Mariner Max are designed with low or moderate primary stability because you use the lean to steer the kayak. The secondary stability is high to make them resistant to rolling when you didn't intend in. In contrast our tandem kayak has high primary and secondary stability because almost all tandems are steered more with the rudder than with leaning (and are often used by inexperienced paddlers too). Kayaks for beginners often have moderate to high primary stability because inexperienced paddlers think that tippy kayaks (even though they might have high secondary stability and don't easily go over) are more likely to roll. River or play kayaks may have low primary and secondary stability to make it easier to roll them. I think of my low trail bikes as having similar characteristics to a low primary stability, high secondary stability kayak. The handlebars turn easily and have a light feel to them, but the bike is very stable and easy to ride no hands. A high trail bicycle is more like a kayak with high primary and secondary stability. I think that your proposed vocabulary encompasses this (and I like that the terms are similar to the ones used for kayaks). One difference with bicycles compared to kayaks is that speed is larger factor in bicycle stability than kayak stability. A kayak doesn't fall over just because you aren't moving, but a bicycle does. A high trail bicycle which has high primary and secondary stabililty at riding speeds (say 15mph) can be very unstable at lower speeds. We've all seen that when watching a newer cyclist climbing a hill at low speed and weaving all over the road. The same bikes can have that "riding on rails" feeling when descending at 40mph down a hill. I don't see this represented in the vocabulary. I've been thinking about this recently because I'm considering rebuilding the front triangle of my wife's bicycle. I'm trying to consider what the best geometry is for it. Right now her bike has a high trail geometry (26" wheels, around 71 degree HTA, around 45mm fork offset, for a trail of ~65mm. When she is climbing or riding at slow speeds the bike tends to weave around. I'd love to put her onto a low trail bike and see if the same is true, but there aren't production low trail bikes in her size. I'll just have to build one. alex _______________________________________________ Internet-bob mailing list Internet-bob(AT)bikelist.org search and browse the archives: http://search.bikelist.org unsubscribe: http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/internet-bob
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Daniel,
The Elephant NFE is a low trail bike, meaning it is meant to have a load in the front. Unloaded in the front, the steering will be somewhat light depending on the exact amount of trail it has in millimeters. Jan Heine has done some testing on the handling characteristics of various amounts of (low) trail. 35mm trail is said to be best with a 5-10 lb weight in front. Not sure exactly what the NFE has, as their site does not give an exact number on the amount of trail.
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On Aug 4, 2015, at 9:38 AM, Ginz <the...@gmail.com> wrote:
How much does 'light and responsive' matter once you'd put a handlebar bag on a bike and loaded it with food and gear? I understand a light wheelset. But, if you want a light bike for gravel roads, why the disc brakes (more of a rhetorical question. I know why). Nice, but my Hunqapillar does that...doesn't it?