Fixing sharp edges on B67 rivets

[John Phillips]

   My wife complains she can feel the sharp edges of the rivets on her Brooks B67.

Has anyone had success smoothing the surface of the rivets on a Brooks saddle?

Would a Dremel work?

Thanks in advance,

John

[Eric Norris]

I've never done this, but if I did, I would try gently using a ball peen hammer on the edges of the rivets. That's pretty much how the rivets were formed in the first place.  

Eric N

www.CampyOnly.com

Twitter @CampyOnlyGuy

Blog: CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com

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[John Phillips]

Ball peen hammer? 

These don't look like the hammered rivets on the B67 select.  These are the regular steel rivets on a standard B67.

I transfered my wife's saddle to my bike to see if I could feel what she felt, and she was right, I could feel the sharp edges of the rivets through my blue jeans.

John

[Tim]

I think a Drimmel tool would work well for that. I used a conical shaped grinding bit in a drill on my first B17. I ended up scuffing the leather a bit but it was worth it. I've had 2 B17s with the steel rivets and both rubbed me raw from one of the back corner rivets. It was the same rivet each time. The saddles with the copper rivets did not do that (I think, Eric, because they were hammered) and I figured if they did they would be easier to correct because of the copper being softer than steel. I only use the copper rivet type now and have never had the rubbing problem again.

[Montclair BobbyB]

John:

Agree with Tim... DREMEL!!  The wonder tool that no garage should be without... 

BB

[Eric Norris]

Oh, sorry. I had large rivets in mind when I wrote that. The Dremel solution could work, but perhaps try a small hand file first--A powe tool can get away from you pretty quickly and gouge the leather. 

Eric N

www.CampyOnly.com

CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com

Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

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[John Phillips]

Ok, I'm glad I asked you guys before I started in.

I'll start with a file or files, and see if that won't fix the sharp bits on the rivets before trying a grinding stone with the Dremel.

I sure wish Brooks fixed these sharp rivets before the saddles left the factory, but at least I don't have to smooth every rivet.

Thanks!

John

[Philip Williamson]

Don't Dremel, just beat them flat. Any smooth-faced hammer should work. Use a firm surface you can mar without regret, and back the rivet with a chunk of metal. Like workbench, old lock, saddle (inside of rivet against lock), tap tap tap on the raised edge. I tuned up all my saddle rivets when I fortified a torn Titanium Swallow with a couple extra rivets. Easy. Fun.

Philip
www.biketinker.com

[John Phillips]

Philip, did you use a hammer on copper rivets, or on steel rivets or both?

Thanks,

John

[Philip Williamson]

I definitely hammered down the edges of copper rivets on the Quickbeam's B17. I think I also hammered the edges of steel rivets, but I'm not sure. 

I don't think you'll damage the integrity of a rivet by removing material from its head, but since they're designed to be hammered, I'd try that first.

Philip

www.biketinker.com

[David Banzer]

I agree that you should try hammering it first. It could be that the rivet wasn't set completely into the leather as it's meant to be, so the edge would be sticking up a little causing the discomfort.
David
Chicago