10-speed Cassette with Sunrace Friction Shifters.

[David Banzer]

Last thing I'm trying to nail down is a cassette. Found exact gearing that I want in a 10-speed cassette. Anyone successfully friction shifted 10-speed cassette with the Sunrace thumb/barend shifters that Riv sells?
I might be complicating issues by using a 9-speed derailer, but that really shouldn't matter in a friction shifting setup, right?
David
Chicago

[Tim Gavin]

Regarding your second question, the RD will work.

You can friction or index a 10-speed cassette with a 9-speed Shimano rear derailer.  The shifter controls the speeds and/or indexing; "SIS" derailers (7, 8, 9 speed MTB, 7, 8, 9, 10 speed road) all have the same cable pull ratio and are interchangeable.

I've only tried index for 10-speeds, and I've never tried the Sunrace shifters, so I can't answer your first question.  

I don't know if the Sunrace shifters have enough travel for a 10 speed cassette.  

I did notice that the Shimano levers travel farther; 10-speed shifters couldn't reach their 10th click when I mounted them on 9-speed bar-end pods.  Shimano's 10-speed bar-end pods are a different casting that allows further lever travel.  But, that's for indexing.

But, a 10-speed cassette is only ~1.5 mm wider than a 9-speed cassette, so one would hope that the shifters could permit that extra travel.  Shimano's 9-speeds did not.

Sounds like a definite maybe.

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[David Banzer]

Well, a big nevermind.
I forgot the wheel I have built up has an older Deore 7s freehub, so obviously 10-speed (all 10) won't fit.
And I managed to take apart a couple pinned 7s cassettes to get a reasonable range for my Clem.
For those interested, it'll be a 42t single chainring with a 12-13-14-15-16-21-28 cassette. It's really flat here, so I like a range of flatland gears. I'll most likely be in the 14-15-16 range mostly - will be starting with 42mm tires at first as that's what I already have. The 12t probably won't get use, and I have a top 13t I can add and throw in something between the large jumps.
David
Chicago

[Joey Korkames]

I find it difficult to friction shift 8+ speed clusters with "set it and forget it" precision.

Trimming a 10sp must require a tailor's touch!

[Ron Mc]

there's a parallel thread going on ibob.  I recommended Microshift index shifters, bar-end or thumbies.  Very happy with results on two bikes.  

[Philip Kim]

I don't think it matters as most 9 speed and 10 spd have same cable pull (at least for shimano). I think 11 speed is another story.

I've been successful using 1x10 speed on ultegra barcons, and the dia compe ene bar end shifters. Just requires a bit more careful shifting, but i got used to it. Since I keep pedaling, I just loosely pedal until I feel the chain shift into place.

I've gone back to 9 speed mostly cheaper cassettes and chains, but still gives somewhat consistent intervals in teeth.

[Patrick Moore]

FWIW, the Microshift rear road derailleur on the Fargo shifted more precisely across my 9 sp cassette than the 7410 rd that replaced it after the MS got caught in the spokes and busted, because the MS required more lever throw. The (Silver) lever had to move some 110-115* to move the chain from small to big, while with the 7410, the lever moves exactly 90* for the same cage movement. Actually, I prefer the 7410 action, though, and with the long Silver levers I can still hit shifts without grinding the chain. 

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[Wayne Naha]

+1 on this.  Friction shifting the 8 speed cassette on the Clem is loads trickier than the old 5 cog freewheel.  Obviously, it's a matter of practice and familiarity, but trying it with 10?  Nope!

[Patrick Moore]

This is very odd to me because among the most precise and "intuitive" shifting I ever experienced was the Retrofriction dt shifter-cum-Am Classic-10-sp (11-23, 12-27) cassette system originally installed on my 2003 Curt. Note that these cassettes were fully stock.

The 9 s- Silver BES + home-brew cassettes that I've used on several bikes also work fine; note here that these cassettes are hacked together from miscellaneous cogs in a box with 9 sp spacers; the cogs may be 7, 8, 9, or 10 sp -- I don't know. They are also out of series, so that the ramps and cutouts are all over the place. Sure, some jumps grind a wee bit, but the needed technique quickly becomes second nature, so that it's easy to shift all the cogs even on terrain that leaves little attention to shifting since it demands it for steering.

The technique in question is what one might call "subtle overshifting" -- this was the technique du jour with the old pre-indexed, pre-slant-parallelogram setups. You quickly learn to very slightly overshift and very quickly re-adjust the lever to settle the chain on the cogs. (With stock Hyperglide, on the other hand, you simply move the lever and wait for the ramps to pick up the chain.)

I guess that the difference in opinion may be generational; I grew up shifting the old stuff where this overshifting technique was natural. Frankly, shifting 9 mismatched cogs with a 7410 (short throw, = less precise) rd with a friction BES works better than shifting an old 14-28 5 speed with Retrofrictions and a non-slant-parallelogram rd of some sort: this was the system I had on that erstwhile '58 Herse. The 9s shift better than the 5 did!

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