Radioberry - Future with component shortages

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Ravi Miranda

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May 1, 2021, 5:45:48 PM5/1/21
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Hi,

Hope everyone is well.

I was looking to order some components at Mouser. There seems to be a
shortage of some key items

1. ASTXR-12-38.400MHz-514054-T ----- > Factory not accepting orders.
I can get the footprint in Beta 5 changed to accept a larger TCXO with
a similar spec.

2. MABA-010143-FLUX18 - Not available in small quantities
Will this work instead?
https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/1030/TC8-1_2b-1701131.pdf
Or would it be best to get all the stuff from one supplier?
Could both transformers be made from BN43-2402 or BN61-2402?

3. AD9866 - headed towards obsolescence - Is there another product
that can be used?

4. 652-CDSOD323-T05LC - No stock - Any other replacement?

5. MPZ1608S601ATA00 - no stock - this might not be critical - can be substituted


What are the group's thoughts on this please?

Best 73,

Ravi/M0RVI



--
I'm here to add more value to the world than I'm using up.

Yado-san

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May 2, 2021, 12:45:54 AM5/2/21
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Hi Ravi,

I ordered some electronic parts from Digi-Key for my second Radioberry (CL025 version) and PreAMP board  last month 

1. ASTXR-12-38.400MHZ-514054-T and
  4. CDSOD323-T05LC was in stock at Digi-Key. but,
5.MPZ1608S601ATA00 I didn't buy(I had it).
2. MABA-010143-FLUX18  I'm going to use the BN43-2402.
  The discussions of the Hermes-Lite group are also helpful. and also Hermes-Lite2 schematics.
I'm not sure about #3.

73!
Yado-san
jg1twp
2021年5月2日日曜日 6:45:48 UTC+9 ravim...@gmail.com:

Ravi Miranda

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Jul 7, 2021, 12:48:16 PM7/7/21
to Yado-san, Radioberry
Hi,

Raising the issue of non-availability of parts.
Are there any alternatives for ASTXR-12-38.400MHZ-514054-T. What
parameters are important here? foot print and pin out? Anything else.

Apologies for the repost.

Ravi
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Ravi Miranda

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Jul 8, 2021, 12:07:32 PM7/8/21
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Hi All,
I have found a replacement for MABA-010143-FLUX18: See Mini-Circuits -
Mini-Circuits (minicircuits.com) TCM8-1+
1:8 CORE & WIRE Transformer, 2 - 500 MHz, 50Ω

73,

Ravi/M0RVI

Mario Vano

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Apr 8, 2025, 8:10:44 AM4/8/25
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I know this is ancient history to some, but I've just built a board of the latest revision and finding the oscillator - or any 6 pin replacement was impossible. Has anyone found one?

Lots of 4 pin replacements with compatible corner pins (that's what I used), but their large pads short against the center pad if you install them.

I tried putting a tiny piece of heat resistant tape to hide the pin, but that raised the part too much for proper reflow.

For a hack, I used a knife to remove the offending center pad (pin 2), but sadly discovered that it has a via that is required to complete the grounding for a lot of components. I had to install an ugly jumper to get the board going.

I considered changing the board, but the kicad files on github don't seem to work to directly generate compatible gerbers without a lot of reverse engineering since the component assignments don't seem to have been done. Perhaps this is a Kicad Version problem?

On the next board I build, I'm going to try to apply some UV cured solder mask over the pin, but I don't know if the part will still reflow properly with the slight hump under it.

It would be a lot easier to just find a 6 pin replacement, but I don't seem to have any luck at this. Are they completely obsolete?

So far, II like the Beta 5 version much better than the earlier one I got from Ali Express.

Any ideas would be appreciated - I'd like to assemble some more boards at some point...

thanks

AE0GL

Mario Vano

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Apr 24, 2025, 9:09:05 PM4/24/25
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Just a follow up to my own posting - in case anybody cares...

I did apply a very thin layer of solder mask to the two boards I built this week and the reflow soldering worked fine with my 4 pin oscillators without any shorts.

The trick is to completely mask the surrounding area of the offending pad with kapton tape and then apply a very thin layer of solder mask paint. Wait until it is completely cured (this took me about 2 hours of UV treatment with my old EPROM eraser). Once it's completely cured,  carefully cut around the edges of the masking tape with an hobby knife before gently removing the tape.

It's very important that you make sure the board area is completely clean before applying the mask paint. I used IPA to clean the board and then let it dry completely. Also - don't make the mask layer too thick or the tcxo may not reflow properly. It needs to be as thin as possible, but still remain completely opaque.

M

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