Gcode Reference

[cageyb...@gmail.com]

Can anyone recommend a reference (either book or web site) which details the Gcode needed to drive a 3D printer please?

[Daniel Newman]

On 14/07/2016 10:05 PM, cageyb...@gmail.com wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a reference (either book or web site) which details the Gcode needed to drive a 3D printer please?

Which 3D printer? There is no gcode standard. Even between MakerBot's printers it
differs. Cupcake & Thing-o-Matics have differences from Replicator 1 / 2 / 2X. Worse
yet, for the Rep 1 / 2 / 2X there are differences in the gcode used by MakerBot Desktop
vs. older versions of MakerBot MakerWare and again from ReplicatorG 0040.

So, please be more specific. And also realize that if you are using MakerBot Desktop,
then you're largely on your own as MakerBot has never seen fit to document their
deviations from their earlier gcode usages.

Dan

[Cagey]

I was specifically looking for Gcode to support the CreatBot DX so that
I can set up the scripting for S3D.

Forget Makerbot Desktop, I'm also using CreateWare, which is based on
Cura. Whilst not as good with options as S3D I don't think it's too bad
WRT to getting something printed quickly.

[Jetguy]

Well you asked in a MAKERBOT forum?????

The title should have been " I was specifically looking for Gcode to support the CreatBot DX"

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

However, you may have to find a specific forum for that printer since CreatBox appears most likely to be running a Reprap style firmware, not an X3G consuming firmware like most makerbots.

Again, sorry you don't know and are asking, but you need to know the firmware and electronics in order to answer the question what gcode "flavor" does your printer run. Even on the linked Wiki, different commands work differently for firmware versions/flavors.

[Jetguy]

Also, I'm not trying to drive you away, but the procedure

[Cagey]

Thanks for that - sorry to have picked an incorrect forum. However to a 3D numpty like me I'd have wagered a couple of bucks (aka pint of beer) that it was running a makerbot-style firmware. The gcode I see created in S3D looks very similar to that generated for Wanhoa/makerbot printers.

I haven't checked it but I assumed it did use X3G. I'll use S3D to create an SD image, and that'll tell me.

[Cagey]

I promise you'll have to try harder than that to drive me away. I also
have a Wanhoa 4S so the comments on this forum are directly relevant
even if they don't apply to my CreatBot.

[tramalot]

Just Google 'gcode' and 'g-m codes'

Pay jetguy no mind he's helps more people than most, he just gets crabby

[Jetguy]

Not trying to give you a hard time, but I cannot research your printer for you at the moment. And a dual Bowden extruder, unknown firmware adds more than challenge to eve remotely get and S3d profile set up

[Ryan Carlyle]

Is that an x3g consuming printer or a gcode consuming printer? I'm too lazy to look it up myself.

Seconding the recommendation to find a forum specific to that printer/controller. Makerbots have a very different slicer toolchain because of some performance optimization and Makerbot culture quirks.

Also -- does S3D have a pre-baked profile in the wizard?

[adam paul]

It consumes gcode. http://www.creatbot.com/en/creatbot-dx.html

Mega based, with a few nice features. How much was it? Not my flavor of tea, but looks like a passable cup.

[Cagey]

As a long-time lurker of this forum I am familiar with JetGuy's famous
reputation. Happy to cut him some slack given his level of expertise
(ex: something that was. Spurt: Drip under pressure).

I did the S3D on creating the gcode file this afternoon. Happy to
confirm that X3G didn't come into play.

I did a google for gcode earlier. No handy reference found, but thanks
to Captain Crabby now I know that I was seeking wisps of smoke in a
hurricane.

[tramalot]

ok bing

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCGCodeCourse.htm

http://gcode.ws/

http://linuxcnc.org/docs/html/gcode.html

http://replicat.org/gcodes

google is slightly different but still had all these!

[Jetguy]

I'm trying to give honest no BS advice here.

#1 I support most all printers, not just makerbot, but this is a group of Makerbot owners, operators and experts here. Asking about a different printer is not going to give you that printer specific info.

#2 support S3D and many custom printers.

What you are asking for is to work backwards from a vendors supplied software, and create a custom machine profile in S3D.

The steps to do that require that:

#1 You know your printer well enough to describe it's hardware and firmware. We have to know that to even begin. We shouldn't be researching this, you own, run, maintain, operate, and now modify that printer, you darn sure better know what you have or figure it out quickly. Again, knowing this is a Makerbot group and asking one of us to help you figure it out is the wrong way forward.

#2 Beyond #1, the basic steps are document the following

Is you machine a corner 0 coordinate system or a center is 0 system?

What direction for each axis does the machine home in (min or max)?

What nozzle size?

What filament size?

Build area size in XYZ (accurate, not the typical one they advertise)

Nozzle spacing for dual extruders

Which nozzle is primary tool 0 per the firmware?

Then, often, you need to export a print file from the original manufacturers software and there you can easy gain some insight into separating the start and end gcode of he machine, and then begin determining some of the parameters. In fact, for the most part, you simply copy and paste the specifics of the start and end gcode into whatever new slicer you are trying. How do you know this areas? Often marked if you read, but also most machine home, set the heater temps, what for heaters to reach it, maybe purge the extruders or a special wipe. If you've done this any length of time, it's quite obvious.

Most important though, is don't beat around the bush. Give the group your question and data you know UP FRONT.

Say the machine name and what you are trying to do

Attach the very gcode print file so maybe the group has a chance to view it.

Why? Because to help you now, I would have to research your machine, download the same software you already have, make a gcode file. Do all the steps above, pop around in settings and files in the software to see if I can glean nozzle spacing and other factors, better understand things like default speeds, retract settings, any weird start or end sequence and so forth.

Just saying, if you want the best help, show whatever group you ask the question in your full hand. Don't make them ask you for stuff. Help them help you.

Corny, but the most sound advice you will get today. Don't be like this thread were we had to get to the 3rd or forth post to even really know what machine.

On Friday, July 15, 2016 at 1:48:48 PM UTC-4, Cagey Bear wrote:

[Cagey]

Just under 1500 quid in the UK - that would have been about $2000 until
a couple of weeks ago.

I am actually quite impressed, though my previous experience is a little
limited. Large plate makes it much easier to set the nozzle height. I
can also print much larger objects than before. Had considered the DX+,
however I don't need the extra height.

My decision to buy was due to my Wanhoa heatbed failing due to burnt
connectors (at both HBP and mightyboard ends). Repaired the Wanhoa this
morning, taking account of JetGuy's previous comments on sharing the
load between 2 power inputs on the mightyboard. So I currently have 2 3D
printers.

I did consider taking the load for the HBP from the power supply, using
a DC SSR:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015DLNOBM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However I decided to give JetGuy's idea of sharing the load a try first:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/wanhao-printer-3d/wsZBpd1uS2I/otboU6FlCAAJ

[Cagey]

Ok, thanks. I made a bad assumption that the gcode had a core set of functions (such as G90/G91 for relative/absolute positioning), and was surprised there seemed to be no handy references for those. I am now blessed with better knowledge.

[Ryan Carlyle]

The RepRap wiki gcode page has a reasonably thorough list including which firmwares support which codes. Repetier's source code includes a full list of codes it recognizes. So there are some resources, but specific manufacturers and firmwares all have their little quirks.

[adam paul]

I had that same ssr on my coreXY printer. It melted.

[Cagey]

Nice. However in preparation for doing this change I also ordered a
stonking great aluminium SSR heatsink. Deciding where I was going to
mount this was going to be a challenge had I decided not to use JG's
advice on sharing the power load.

[adam paul]

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/3dprintertipstricksreviews/MiGaL_sZiuc/InI1rMtsAgAJ

There's pics in that thread, it was mounted to that heatsink, mounted to 2040.

This is better then the ssr, although I have not used it personally
http://reprap.me/power-expander.html

[Cagey]

Thanks for sharing that link - I hadn't previously been aware of that
option, and somewhat surprised they can only be sourced from
http://reprap.me/ - I would have thought the 3D printer manufacturers
would have considered the option of offloading the heavy power
consumption off of the control electronics.

Lots of other potentially useful components (hot ends etc) on that web
site. Will take a gander later.

[Ryan Carlyle]

Very few printer manufacturers are dumb enough to try to sell printers with big honking heated beds or AC wiring downstream of the PSU. The certification requirements for appliances skyrocket when you use >40v anywhere. Putting all the 120/240 AC within certified off-the-shelf assemblies and sticking to low-voltage DC elsewhere is a major cost, complexity, cycle time, and legal liability reduction issue.