Slopes, Overhangs and or Tappers Any Pointers

[GeckospotNixie]

I have all ways had issues with printing slopes, overhangs and or tappers what ever you call them.
They are a pane in the, you know.
I also have the issue at the top of holes sometimes also.
Although on this part the top of the big hole in the back came out outstanding.

I'm printing using ABS.
I don’t think that I'm printing to fast on this part the “Loop Speed” was 30 mm/s.
I have tried a number of times with the fan low medium and high and no fan at all.

I would grateful for any pointers!
All thank you all.

GeckospotNixie

[Matej Rozman]

Try lowering extruder temperature.

Other thing that works for me is loops from out to in, I actually get better overhangs with this strategy.
Also reduce loop number.

In any case you are having this becaose you get the part too hot in too short amount of time. Penske had this explained beautifully in the old forum, maybe he can pitch in here also.

Dne 28. jul. 2014 04:19 je oseba "'GeckospotNixie' via Kisslicer Refugee Camp" <kisslicer-r...@googlegroups.com> napisala:

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[Peter Gregory]

I'm having the same issue.
I'm trying to use up a spool of PLA that kept jamming and causing filament flow issues.
It is SainSmart filament designed for 210c to 250c.
However, at 210c it won't flow. At 220c it still doesn't flow well, at 230c it is runny and gives the same effect you've posted.
Nice to know this is temperature related.

[hugues]

From my different test I done, it's due to the cubex hotend, when I switch the nozzle to an other one with a longer part like the ceramic hotend or the merlin one I haven't this problem, angle and overhang are clean.
I think the output is too close from the print, you can go at slow speed or you can try I prime pillar, it's the same problem with the classic hotend.

Maybe you can try to isolate the nozzle with kapton tape. I will also made a try.

[giovanni...@gmail.com]

Hi Peter,

you can try to increase the voltage on the extruder motor, this will increase the torque and will push with more force the filament and reduces the clicking and the flow fail.

I had problems with a PVA that was sometimes too large 1.82-1.84mm, with the original settings I had a lot of "Flow failures", I've set the voltage to 1.5V and now it's a lot better.

Follow the instructions on the attached file but set the TP E1, E2, E3 to 1.5V instead of 1.1V like into the instructions.

I think it's possible to go even higher because with 1.5V the motor just start to take a little of temperature.

After you set the voltage to 1.5V go to the menu "PJ Con" on the printer and try with 210-220°C if you can get decent RPM without clicking, while you make this test check the temperature of the motor, if the motor has a too high voltage it will heat.

For safety check also the temperature of the motor occasionally during the first print.

[Peter Gregory]

Thanks for the tip on the stepper motor voltage.

I've adjusted it and it is working better.

I'm now working through a roll of ProtoParadigm white PLA.

It will only print at higher temps than posted on their website (240c first layer, 230c others).

Even then, it will have issues with slipping.

I adjusted the feed steppers to 1.48v.

It gets a little warmer, but not as warm as the Y stepper.

I can tell it has more power to it - it doesn't skip anymore while printing (yet).

I have about 16 hours left in my print.  It usually bombs out about an hour into it with a filament flow error.

Hopefully this will push it to the end of the print!

[PenskeGuy]

On Thursday, July 31, 2014 11:40:27 AM UTC-7, Peter Gregory wrote:

I'm now working through a roll of ProtoParadigm white PLA.

It will only print at higher temps than posted on their website (240c first layer, 230c others).

Even then, it will have issues with slipping.

I routinely run their stuff at 205, maybe up to 220 when required for higher flow rates, due either to higher speed or really thin layers. I'm pretty conservative with my speeds, though.