Anvil journeyman set up / manual

[Sam White]

Hi all,

I’ve lucked out and got hold of a secondhand Anvil Journeyman 3.1It does however come without any manuals for set up / general use - can anyone point me in the right direction?

Specifically, I am wondering how to set the indicator on the bb drop / rise as I appear to have a good number of possible locations for it with 4x threaded holes and further adjustment on the indicator itself. Pic attached..3

Thanks in advance!

Sam

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Sam White

www.light-play.org - 07745 860157

[Whit Johnson]

Hey Sam, 

I have the same fixture and have used it for the last 12 years. He never made a manual for the fixtures, just had to ask him if you had questions. 

 As it is in that photo you are at 70mm of BB drop. Do NOT adjust the orange pointer, that was set by Don when setting up the fixture after production. Some of the holes in his fixtures were put there to hold/indicate the pieces for milling, so aren’t used for adjustment. You shouldn’t need to change the location of anything for normal frames. 

In Bikecad or another design software you’ll need to display the X/Y of the bottom center of the head tube from the center of the BB shell. Then those are the numbers you use to set the X/Y of the fixture. The X is the back of the head tube slider plate. The Y is the bottom of the slider plate that raises and lowers the head tube arm. Hard to explain without photos. The seat tube angle is pretty easy to figure out and can be double-checked with a protractor using the horizontal stainless bar and the front of the seat tube tower.  The CS length is set at the front of the slider. 

Hope this helps?

[Dan Chambers]

It's not a great help, but for the record and completeness' sake, here's the pdf sheets that came with my Journeyman 3.1:

As Whit said, the angles settings are pretty clear, as are the BB rop and CS length.
I always think of the front end distances as like Reach and Stack, but to the bottom center of the headtube, (not the top as in rider fit geometry).

All the best,

Dan Chambers

[Sam White]

Ah great stuff, thank you both for your replies.

I had figured the front end out but it is reassuring to know I’m on the right path and I’ll be sure to leave the BB indicator well alone.

Thanks again

Sam

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[FCarcao]

This might help. 

[Dan Chambers]

Fantastic!
Perhaps Don just sent the wrong sheets to me?
I worked it out anyway...

All the best,

On Thursday 25 July 2024 at 23:07:16 UTC+1 FCarcao wrote:

This might help. 

[Hyeong Woo “Ganzomi” Jo]

What should I do if I've already released the bolts of orange pointer?  In my case, it has been released since I bought it secondhand.

2024년 7월 26일 금요일 오전 4시 15분 9초 UTC+9에 Whit Johnson님이 작성:

[Sam White]

Thanks again everyone.

Jo - my back up plan was to insert a frame that I know the bb drop for and work backwards?

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[Alistair Spence]

You'll have to re-calibrate it. Shouldn't be too difficult. You could put a frame of known BB drop in the fixture and do it that way.

Back when I was using an old Nortac fixture I used to snap a string line from the rear dummy axle, and the leading edge of the bottom of the head tube. Then I would measure the distance from the string to the center of the BB shell. Modeling that same set up in CAD, I would take the string/BB measurement off the drawing, and then futz with  the fixture until that dimension was the same as on the drawing.

I'm sure there are other ways you can do this too, like if you had a surface plate, for example.

Alistair Spence,

Seattle, WA

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Alistair Spence,

Seattle, WA.

[Eric Keller]

I imagine there are reference edges machined into the fixture.  You're going to have to reverse engineer it to some extent, I haven't seen anything from Don in a long time.

Eric Keller

Boalsburg, Pennsylvania

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