I should mention its a touring frame - I would imagine a straight blade work wouldn't be a great ride -
Thanks everyone.
I've been riding this fork for a few years (it has thousands but not 10s of thousands of miles on it):
http://photos.alexwetmore.org/Bicycles/Framebuilding/Porteur-Disk-Fork/i-r76XGVF/A
But it is my bike, not a customers (I don't have any customers since I'm an amateur builder). I'm also aware of failures on forks that have built the same way as my fork or Joel's fork. My fork could last 20 years of every day use without breaking, but the percentage chance of failure is high enough that I'd be concerned about selling it.
The biggest concern is having the tip of the disk mount act as a can opener and crack the fork blade at the top of the mount. I tried to minimize that by feathering the tip of the mount into the blade so that there isn't a stress riser there. Keeping the tab off center may also help with that. Thicker and larger diameter fork blades (I used the thickest ones that I had on hand) also help. I got the diameter to be larger by trimming these fork blades from the bottom and using a sloping crown to keep the blade length shorter.
alex
Alex: That is a place where you (as a fork bender die maker) could put together a nice system. It's pretty easy if the same person designs the disk tab and the fork bender and makes sure that they have compatible curves.
I have a small CNC machine (and access to a much larger one) and cut my own disk brake tabs that pretty closely match my fork bend. Fitment still takes a little bit of work. If I were doing this on a production level I'd spend a lot of time refining the cut of the disk tab to very closely match my normal fork blades.
alex