Wood planer repair

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Randy Ohman

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Nov 22, 2016, 4:34:25 PM11/22/16
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It took a while to find a replacement part for one that had failed but mission accomplished and the part is ordered.

Ken Runner

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Nov 22, 2016, 4:57:27 PM11/22/16
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Awesome, thanks...I still think we should try to cast some spares from Aluminum just to see how good of a part we can make

Ken

Randy Ohman

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Nov 23, 2016, 3:41:41 PM11/23/16
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That's an interesting idea. It is the part that fails by the looks of it. I noticed working on bikes in the past few days that some of the sprockets are aluminum. Different app but maybe some potential.

I guess we need to model it up once it's in hand and can measure it.

Josh Snyder

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Nov 28, 2016, 3:25:50 PM11/28/16
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I know I it's been awhile since I have been into the space.  I have been traveling like crazy this year in fact I am traveling to Singapore today.  But last week right before Thanksgiving work gifted me with a pair of 4k 32inch monitors; it's really a thing to behold.  But this means that I have a 30inch monitor that I have no use for... would the Space be interested in it?  My home desk is not big enough for two 30inch monitors and a 32inch 4k...  It's a Dell 3007wfp.

Pro's
  • it's a 30 inch 16:10 monitor
  • native resolution 2560X1600  
  • Still Looks good

Con's

  • It is 9 years old (still works good but... 9 years old, could fail tomorrow)
  • CFL Backlit (so it takes 2-3 minutes to get to full brightness)
  • Requires a Dual-Link DVI to drive it at native resolution (most video cards support this)
  • given that it's a CFL Backlit monitor it pulls about 70 watts.  

So thoughts?  No way I can bring it into the Space this week as I will be in Singapore until next Sunday.

        Josh

josh jordan

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Nov 28, 2016, 3:44:11 PM11/28/16
to 10BitWorks on behalf of Joshua Snyder
I've got a 28" in that resolution that I used for many years.  For some reason everybody stopped making that resolution by 2012, all of them replaced by shorter versions at 2560x1440.  Around a year ago I switched from that to a single 42" 4k screen.  This has been awesome, really change the way you work.  The large 4k displays are half the cost they were when I bought mine last year. 
 
-Josh

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Adam Bark

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Dec 7, 2016, 3:40:08 PM12/7/16
to 10BitWorks on behalf of Randy Ohman
Hi, I just recently joined 10bit and I've only been once, a couple of weeks ago on a Saturday. I have started a project to make a desk that could do with some planing along the edges of the two pieces that I want to bond to make the top. Is the planer now repaired? Will there be anyone around on Saturday that could give me a demo please?

Thanks,
Adam.
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Kevin Baldor

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Dec 7, 2016, 3:44:14 PM12/7/16
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I'm not sure that the planer will be able to work on the edges. Does anyone know the limits?

I do have some hand planes that are designed for planing the edges of boards that I could bring in if they are the best tools for the job.

Adam Bark

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Dec 7, 2016, 3:51:56 PM12/7/16
to 10BitWorks on behalf of Kevin Baldor
It's two inch board (about 1 and 5/8 planed by the looks of it) but I would certainly appreciate the hand tools if the power tool isn't up to the job, thank you Kevin.


On 07/12/16 14:44, 10BitWorks on behalf of Kevin Baldor wrote:

john vanhoozer

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Dec 8, 2016, 12:28:33 PM12/8/16
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Adam,

Were you the fellow I talked to just before Thanksgiving with the small table that used pocket screws for the glue up of the top?  Or is this a new project and you are going to be building the top?  A planer is for flattening the top surface to an even size... removing the highs and lows.  If you want to butt two boards together to make one, you need a jointer or hand tools.  You can do jointing using a router or a table saw. FYI, I did *loan* a bisquit plate joiner to the space so you can use that instead of pocket screws (which are perfectly acceptable and *very* strong).

I've got a cheap router table, too.  Cheap in that it's not the best, for desk tops but well made.  Does the space have a real router table with fence and everything?

I will be there this Saturday, probably around 1pm (might be earlier), and can bring my router and router bits.  Someone said there aren't any bits for the router table there, but I haven't looked.

We could use a straight bit if all you want to do is trim the sides, but if you want to put a nice edge on it, I'll have some bits with me for that, too.


On Tuesday, November 22, 2016 at 3:34:25 PM UTC-6, Randy Ohman wrote:

Mikel Duke

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Dec 8, 2016, 12:44:56 PM12/8/16
to 10BitWorks on behalf of Ken Runner
I think that was me. I was making a small table with the top pocket screwed and glued. I used the table saw to rip the edges of the boards so I could glue them.

I used dowels for my last project instead. I joined 4 panels to make a square table top thing. I didn't make the panels, I found them at home depot instead.



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Adam Bark

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Dec 8, 2016, 12:58:29 PM12/8/16
to 10BitWorks on behalf of john vanhoozer
That wasn't me. I was planning to glue the boards together with a flat joint, I'm re-purposing the technique from making guitar body blanks. The board I have has been rounded and isn't flat so I wanted to start with planing it and then using a couple of other techniques to flatten it then glue and clamp (are there any sash clamps at 10bit?) They are significantly longer boards so it might not be the best technique but I can show you a video on Saturday and we can put our heads together if you have some spare time (thanks!)

I would appreciate the router, I think it will come in handy for the leg joints too, thanks.
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john vanhoozer

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Dec 10, 2016, 11:16:24 AM12/10/16
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I haven't seen a sash clamp.  Best I have is a longer bar clamp (same idea but not so nice/broad jaws)...  I'll bring the router and some bits.  Not sure if I can get the small router table in the car easily and I need to make a quick run to help a friend out with a networking problem.  So I might be a tad later than one.  But hopefully, not too much later.

FYI - I also have some corner clamps running around somewhere (great for framing things) and a few other odds and ends.

Mikel Duke

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Dec 10, 2016, 11:37:54 AM12/10/16
to 10BitWorks on behalf of Ken Runner
I didn't know what a sash clamp was so I looked it up


I have seen clamps like this at the space. I think they are by the pile of metal tubes and scraps. There was 2 or 4 of them.


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john vanhoozer

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Dec 10, 2016, 4:11:56 PM12/10/16
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Well, I had to go and look it up, too, to see what the difference is.  Really, there is no difference between a sash and a bar clamp 

There are several bar clamps here at 10bit.  They are pretty heavy and old.  Look to be iron/steel.  I've got a much lighter one: Jorgenson Bar Clamp


On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 10:37:54 AM UTC-6, Mikel Duke wrote:
I didn't know what a sash clamp was so I looked it up


I have seen clamps like this at the space. I think they are by the pile of metal tubes and scraps. There was 2 or 4 of them.

Randy Ohman

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Dec 12, 2016, 12:33:11 AM12/12/16
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Putting the edges of your top pieces together so that it is a clean, tight joint will require jointing, done by a jointer. I have both a small bench jointer and a portable hand power jointer. I can bring them Tuesday. This job can also be done with a jack plane. Once the two edges are parallel and smooth, you can use John's biscuit joiner to make matching slots for the wood biscuits and gluing. In old days this was done with doweling jigs and dowels.

Update on the planer: I hadn't put the part in yet as folks wanted to try casting replicas. One way to document the part for such purposes is to 3D model it. I haven't done that yet.

Randy Ohman

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Dec 12, 2016, 8:54:55 PM12/12/16
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Looks like my visit will be mid-evening Wednesday rather than Tuesday.

Randy Ohman

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Dec 18, 2016, 8:10:12 PM12/18/16
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I have drawn up the sprocket. It is for a size 42 chain and sits on the 15 mm output shaft of the motor gearbox. The sprocket has an integrated 6 mm wide key. It is made of steel, powdered metal technology, I think. It was procured from Wholesale Tool Company of Warren, MI, the importer of the now discontinued model planer (http://www.wttool.com/index/page/product/product_id/15064/name/10+Auto+Planer+WT).

I could have hashed out the sprocket profile from scratch but a handy web app did it for me...and it also coughs up the gcode so that if we wanted to mill steel rather than cast aluminum it would not be as much of a stretch (http://www.idleamusements.com/?page_id=367).

Now to install...the broken sprocket did not go down without a fight, messing up the shaft a bit so I am about to go clean that up.


On Tuesday, November 22, 2016 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-6, Ken Runner wrote:
sprocket for planer drive.dwg
Planer Sprocket.JPG
Replacement Sprocket.jpg
sprocket.dxf
gcode.txt

Randy Ohman

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Dec 23, 2016, 10:19:48 PM12/23/16
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The gearbox output chain has bad/tight links and, now post test, a broken link. Upon installation, the looseness and the tight links locked up the chain on teeth of the driven sprocket, breaking a couple teeth, even though I'd put an idler tensioner in place to try and prevent troubles. I think I will need to get another sprocket and replacement chain.
Sprocket-driven w 2 teeth broke.jpg

Randy Ohman

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Dec 25, 2016, 3:33:21 PM12/25/16
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In working on this I was interested in trying chain tensioning by putting a free-floating sprocket in the middle between the give and take. Turns out an English company had made this into a product already (http://www.renold.com/products/sprockets-and-accessories/roll-ring/) (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qhVOW--QSs). I'd 3D printed something similar. Two are installed and, though the planer is still somewhat apart waiting for shipment of new chain and sprockets, these enabled the drive to run despite the damaged chain and sprocket.

Randy Ohman

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Dec 26, 2016, 1:09:47 AM12/26/16
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Perhaps Renold is an English distributor. It seems more likely the originating company is German...http://www.roll-ring.com/?lang=en
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