My Rambouillet Build

[Ben Miller]

Hello Fellow RBW Owners,

Wanted to do a little update on my Rambouillet build in progress, now that it is actually taking form.

First, a little bit of background. I've been lucky enough to have built up four (4!) Riv bikes already, but this is really shaping up to be a truly unique one for me. This Ram’s story started (for me) way back in late 2017 with me purchasing it off fellow list member Keith as a F/F/HS. Unfortunately a number of not so great life events happened shortly after that, including fracturing my leg, taking me off the bike for nearly 6 months. The frame moved with me down a new path in life, but mostly collected dust in my garage. Not forgotten or abandoned, but definitely a bit lonely while I worked on 2 more bikes that were more recently acquired. During this time I quietly acquired used parts and ideas that eventually coalesced into a build for the Rambouillet.

The Ram frame itself is 64 cm painted with a beautiful sage green with a bit of pearl iridescent to it. It has a couple of small paint chips on the non-drive side seatstay, but otherwise in pristine condition. It was included with a Tange headset.

Previous Rivendell builds had mostly involved me purchasing brand new components (not having a large parts bin to work off of), I think these builds were still fun and interesting, but really been driven by new or recent bike component technology. My vision for the Ram build is really to focus on used/vintage/NOS stock parts as much as possible, but also fun and practical to me. I know, not a revolutionary design principle, but this is my first time executing it.

The heart of this began around the idea of setting it up as a DT friction shifting using a vintage Huret Duopar Eco I got off eBay. The Duopar was originally introduced in 1975 with the Eco being released in 1981. These 40 year old derailleurs were originally intended for 6 speed freewheel, but through the magic of friction shifting and a little finessing, seem to work just fine with a 9 speed cassette. The big thing about the Duopar is it was one of first (perhaps the first?) derailluer to handle up to a 36t cog and 40 teeth of chainwrap. My understanding is that these RD’s are slightly controversial in terms of either loving or hating them (lots is said about their maintenance issues), but part of this was trying to find out for myself. As I am just starting to learn about these derailleurs, it’d be nice to hear from others about their experience!

Over the last couple of days I’ve been able to get the Duopar dialed in and shift through a Shimano HG 11-36 cassette using Silver DT shifters and paired with a Sugino triple that I converted to 44/30. Today I finished mounting a pair of Paul Racer centerpulls that I got off a list member and got strung together to the NOS Mafac levers I got off eBay. These are mounted on the Crust Shaka bars (my new favorite bars), which is so far the only brand new part on this build besides the Velo Orange seatpost (I did have a vintage seatpost I had been planning on using, but the mounting plates have a lot of corrosion that is preventing them from providing a tight hold). With brakes on and functional, I was able to take it out and test the shifting in real conditions. And I have to say, it feels really nice, couldn’t be happier at this point.

The eventual plan is to swap the 700c wheels for 650b (but the 650b wheels that I had planned to go on here ended up on my girlfriends Rambouillet!) and put on 42mm BSP’s.

I know this is a long write-up, but it’s been a long road to this build. But it is finally nearing culmination. I have to say, what a time to be alive and into bikes, with so many different options and ways to approach a bike build. I feel pretty lucky and excited for how this is gonna turn out!  

[Ben Miller]

Opps. Here is a photo of the whole bike...

[Evan E.]

Beautiful! Congratulations!

[ascpgh]

Fantastic build Ben, can't go wrong with a Rambouillet. I've got mine since a new complete bike build and it has morphed to Pauls racers, French derailleurs and 700c x 32 Stampede Pass under some nice wide hammered Honjos.  A subtle twenty year evolution.

I use SunTour AccuShift bar end shifters, Mavic rear derailleur with a WolfTooth RoadLink to extend the max tooth count with a wide (46-34t) double on a shorter SKF BB shifted by a Mavic FD.  Remaining OEM parts: Nitto bar and stem, Ultegra cartridge HS, Nitto seatpost, Brooks professional (with care, it is still in shape) TA Zephyr triple crank with inner using bolts & removable spacers to become a double. It's just a natural and takes on riding well beyond the its current specs would lead you believe. It's been ridden across the country, on singletrack, grassy fields, trails, broken roadways of the local post industrial urban environment. Those can be anything from asphalt and concrete to brick, stone block and one short wooden paver street. Been down the GAP and back several times. I just held off transitioning to 650B and generator hub lights because while an unusual under square (top tube shorter than seat tube) production frame, I really need even a bit shorter optimally, so I held my big $ for a bespoke frame. 

You're on the way to perfection with your build. You will get called out in public by random folks who appreciate that bike to the quiet consternation of the proximate cyclists on newer, more exotic, pricier bikes. During Bike New York's Five Boro Ride My wife wondered if I knew the all people calling out my bike and its fit for me and could I make them stop doing it since it was upsetting riders around us. 

Enjoy the return to better health, riding and that beauty! 

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

[Mark Roland]

I will add my kudos--beautiful bicycle, great job with the build. Any other bike would have been upstaged by that lovely antique workbench. I've bought and sold a few in my day. There is something about how they show the history of use through every cut, gouge & stain.  May your Rambouillet develop the same fantastic beausage and patina over the years!

[Tommy Patterson]

I owned a 64cm sage green Ram recently... Do you have my old bike!? I think our timelines are different. I bought mine from a used shop in western NC in spring 2018 and sold it to a list member in summer 2019. I liked almost everything about that bike but got interested in a BMC MCD and let it go. In retrospect, I regret selling that bike and I am eagerly anticipating the Roadinis coming back in stock this year. Here are two photos of my sage green Ram. 

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[J Schwartz]

I love this Rambouillet and it's decently wide gearing range.  Looks very comfy.

I'm in the process of building up a similar Canti-Rom....downtube shifters and non-aero levers.

Curious if there's a trick to get non-aero housing to swoop up and down gracefully like that?  Is there a type or brand that is best suited for this?

Also, does anyone know the name or code for this Ram color?

Thanks

[Evan E.]

Here's my orange Rambouillet (650b). Thanks, Ben, for giving me an excuse to post it. :)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19TrbqrlTfcHNB9_tF1YU0UsdMqx-VaGM/view?usp=sharing

[Mark Roland]

Any regular cable housing will give you that swoop. Crossing the cables can give them a bit more support. Some people zip tie them together here. These days I usually top mine out about a hand's length maybe a smidge more from the top of the tops to the high point of the arch. That's about as low as you want to go; after that the cable can potentially exit the lever at too severe of an angle, causing it to prematurely wear and possibly affect braking performance. Right now four of my four roadworthy road bikes are non-aero.( Photo angle can also make them look longer or shorter.)

[Fullylugged]

Gorgeous color and very nice build.  Looks like it's an earlier production model which has the (nicer I think) pointed lugs. Later bikes are rounded. (pic of my headtube in painting process shows the rounded lugs)  No matter the date of make, you will love the bike.

[Jay LePree]

Ben:  That is beautiful.  I have one of the last orange white 54 cm that we sold.  (I purchased it in 2003).  I have been looking for a painter.  Where did you have your bike painted?  How did you get the new decals?

Jay

Demarest, NJ

On Friday, February 12, 2021 at 5:31:58 PM UTC-5 Ben Miller wrote:

[Eric Norris]

Zip ties? Ha! There’s special part for that:

--Eric Norris
campyo...@me.com

Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy

YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 

On Feb 14, 2021, at 8:30 PM, Mark Roland <absolut...@gmail.com> wrote:

Any regular cable housing will give you that swoop. Crossing the cables can give them a bit more support. Some people zip tie them together here. These days I usually top mine out about a hand's length maybe a smidge more from the top of the tops to the high point of the arch. That's about as low as you want to go; after that the cable can potentially exit the lever at too severe of an angle, causing it to prematurely wear and possibly affect braking performance. Right now four of my four roadworthy road bikes are non-aero.( Photo angle can also make them look longer or shorter.)

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<IMG_20200429_163205129(2).jpg><IMG_20201226_110155191(2).jpg>

[Ben Miller]

Thanks for all kind words everyone! Especially Andy in Pittsburgh and Evan for sharing their gorgeous Orange Ram builds! 

Tommy: No, as noted, I bought this frame waaaay back in 2017 from list member Keith. It sounds like you bought and sold yours during that time frame. Which just emphasizes how long I've been sitting on this project. *Sigh* Yours maybe looks like a slightly darker green? Hard to tell from the photos though.

Jason: I used grey Jagwire housing for my build. Velo Orange's metallic braided housing looks very nice, but I had this already. It sounds like Mark is a better resource for setting up non-aero brakes, I just eyeballed it. And I don't know the code or official name of the green color.

Bruce: Yes, I do believe my frame is an early run. It also has an interesting feature of two retaining screws holding on the headbadge. Very interesting about the lugs! I wonder why Grant changed them. Were they're any other changes between runs?

Jay: I think you meant to ask Bruce where he got his painted (I haven't repainted a bike yet). Rivendell has a webpage about painters though, recommending Rick of D&D painting and Joe Bell.

Eric: What is the name of that doohicky?? 

[Fullylugged]

Jay:  I had mine painted in Pelham AL by Nathan Barnes (https://www.instagram.com/nate_barnes81/).  He paints cars and motorcycles during the week, bicycles (and sometimes plane parts) on the weekend.  I think he does great work and he is very reasonable in cost. I have a PDF of the decals and had them made by a decal shop in MS. It was pretty reasonable and there are two clear coats over them on my bike. My color is actually a past Ford Mustang color called Autumn Gold. I didn't like it on the cars but I think it's very nice on the bicycle. The cream is standard RBW same as came on the bike. Msg me if you want more info on decals.  I've helped someone else here on the list as well, but am getting old and forgetful so I couldn't say who. 

the Old Slow Guy

[karl.fun...@gmail.com]

I'm also stopping by to comment on the workbench. Wow, what a cool piece! The bike looks fantastic, too; the proportions are just right. 

[Jay LePree]

Thanks very much for the information.  I started researching painters in my area, and was surprised to find how many autobody shops will paint bicycles on the side.  

Best to you,

Jay LePree

Demarest, NJ

[Ben Miller]

A couple folks commented on my workbench, thanks! I got it partially restored from a friend, but now it's mostly used as a table. Attached is a photo of it in front of the workbench I built and use as such. A modern take on the french Roubo workbench. Makes for a more cluttered photo, but oh well. 

As far as the bike, I wrapped the handlebars in leather sewn wraps I got from Walnut Studiolo. I also put on some MKS/Simworks Bubbly Bronze pedals. Both the wrap and the pedals look super nice to me, really completes the look. The pedals are amazing, so smooth and love the wide platform. The wraps seem good so far, though I normally like a thicker one. I also shortened the brake cables, per Mark's suggestion. And I was having some shifter issues if the Silver DT's (as noted on another recent thread). I removed them and packed them with teflon grease which seems to be a big improvement. Overall I am really loving this build! This bike just disappears under you in the best possible way.

Also including a photo at sunset on Twin Peaks in SF tonight, you can't really see the Ram all that much, but that is okay cause it is a beautiful photo. 

[Cal Patterson]

I see that this is an old thread but I wanted to contribute my Ram which is also a 64 and also green.  I've got 650b wheels on it and 48 tires that barely fit (crimped the chainstay a smidge). 2x8 shifting, 44/28 in the front and an 8 speed XT in the back, 12-28 maybe?

[Ben Miller]

Cal,

Thank you for sharing such a gorgeous Ram build! Ritchey Logic cranks, centerpull brakes, front and rear dynamo lights, plump Ultradynamico tyres, and a big handlebar bag! Build after my own heart. Do you have some support to keep the bag off the front brake cable? I hacked together something from a Gilles Berthoud decaleur, but it's not perfect and still my bag interfers with the front light a bit.

Below is how my Ram looks currently. The drivetrain changed almost completely. I rode it yesterday after seeing your post. It is such a great ride. And I believe I saw a fellow Rabouiletter out on the new SF Sunset Dune's park. Almost as cool as that Rivendell St sign ;)

[Bryan Dalik]

Ben what a perfect build that is - i'll attach a photo of mine as well as it's been very very fun to make this frame into a true "country bike". Quick question for you - I have the same light mount on the fork crown and it's a matter of millimeters to get the light mount into that position without rubbing the tire or the bottom of the headset. Do you have the same extremely tight clearance? Trying to see if I can get that to be a little more easy of a fit. Seeing your deeper setback seatpost was a lightbulb for me too as I feel I'm a bit tight in terms of reach on mine. Hoping 30mm setback will do the trick.

Bryan

[dylan green]

Those Steilacooms look good, Bryan!

[Ben Miller]

Bryan, thanks for the kind words and sharing a photo of your Ram. That's a finely curated build right there. Agree that the Steilacoom's look great!

Yeah, that style light mount can be tricky with certain headsets. I think the Tange caged BB headset that came with the frame has just enough clearance to play nice with the mount. But I know other headsets that are a bit bulkier that I had issues. I think I used a spacer washer on one to get the mount to clear the headset. 

[JAS]

Lovely bikes!  Thank you for sharing.

Cal, what front bag is on your Ram?

--Joyce

[Bryan Dalik]

Ben - never thought about horizontal spacing, only vertical. If I get it out a little further with a washer that should solve the problem. Thanks so much!

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[Cal Patterson]

Thanks Ben and Joyce,

The front bag was made by Jay Ritchey, bagsxbird. Everything I've gotten from him has been super well made and lasted a long time for me, I'm a believer. Top notch stuff. That bag is/was called the Tailgrab, and I think it's white, or offwhite ecopack fabric.  

I spaced it off the front brake cable/taillight wire/head tube interaction like so (attached picture below): 

Just 2 foam spacer blocks and a strap. It's loose enough to not squeak or affect steering.

[Victor Meng]

To my fellow Ram riders,

I have a question about tire clearance for my '05 blue Ram.  I currently run 35mm GravelKing SK.  I live in the SF Bay Area and ride the Ram around the East Bay and on some gravel on the Bay Trail, which the GravelKings are great for.  When riding trails in Oakland Hills I usually take my Homer that has 47mm Terra Trails.  But Ben's green Ram with Barlow Pass and Bryan's orange one with Steilacoom from this thread has piqued my interest in the two Rene Herse 38mm options.  I don't have a caliper but the GravelKings measure around 35mm with a tape measure on rims with 18mm internal width.  As you can see, there isn't much space left to spare; I have about 4mm of clearance to the chain stay on either side in the rear (I can just fit in a 4mm hex wrench).  Do you guys think my Ram could safely fit either RH 38mm tire in the available space?  To the extent it's relevant, I'm light weight at 150lbs.  Any thoughts appreciated.  

  

Best, 

Victor

[Johnny Alien]

I have to be honest, as someone that LOVES Rene Herse tires I am not sure I would bother with that move. The Gravel Kings are great tires and in the classic line are pretty light and supple. Is the RH more so? In the extralight casing I am sure they are but the GK will probably be less prone for flats. If they fit (and they probably will but might be tight I would go with slicks over knobby) I think you will love the tires but I just wanted to throw down some respect for your existing tire choice.

[Patrick Moore]

If your Gravel Kings clear with 4 mm per side at a true 35 mm wide, and the replacement RH 38s measure a true 38 mm wide, then the wider tires would clear by 2.5 mm per side, which is pretty darned close but IMO doable if you don't ride in mud. The question is, how much they will expand with use, and supple tires, at least my RH ELs, will expand a few mms with use.

I installed 42 mm Naches Pass ELs on my 1999 Joe Starck fixed gear so I could ride it on some of our dry sandy acequia ditchbank roads. The NPs measured 38 mm installed brand new on the 13 mm IW Sun M14As but after a few miles had ballooned to ~39 mm and I expect would have grown a mm or so more. There was ample clearance for a true 42 under the front single pivot but at 38-39 mm they cleared by only ~2 mm per side at the chainstays, and as the tires still seemed to be expanding, I decided to stop before the rear wore any paint away. 30 - 35 psi. I really must get the insides of the chainstays dimpled, as this was great fun. (Used the 1937 SA TF 2 speed fixed hub with direct and 75%, for 75" and 56" gears.)

[Corwin Zechar]

I have ridden 38 mm Schwalbe Marathon Supremes on my first generation orange Ram. This is without fenders of course.

Regards,

Corwin
San Francisco Bay Area

[Ben Miller]

I believe I have fit RH Barlow Pass 38mm's on 3 different Rams at this point (two of which are in my garage currently). The tightest point isn't actually the chainstays in the rear tri, but the caliper clearance. This can be alleviated by different brakes, but something to consider. Never attempted Steilacooms, as I find the slicks more than adequate for the (usually, though not currently) dry champagne gravel that I take the Ram on occasionally around the Bay.

Ben "who went down twice(!) riding Fleecer Ridge 55 knobbies on Sunday trying to ride local single track while it was too wet" in SF

[Victor Meng]

Thank you all for chiming in.  I appreciate the input.  

Johnny - you raise a fair point.  I like the GKs just fine, and wonder if I should just leave well enough alone.  I've read such great things about RH tires though...

Ben - thanks for your comment.  If I understand it correctly, I think I have enough clearance from the Racer Ms I've got on the Ram.  One follow up question though:  have the Barlow Passes on your two Rams expanded over time like Patrick mentioned?  Not sure if my chainstay will have enough clearance if the Barlow Pass expand appreciably over time.  

Thanks again, 

Victor

[Bryan Dalik]

Victor - 

Ive comfortably got 38mm RH Knobbies on my Ram. I think the type of brake you are using is going to decifer how much room you'll have.

I use the TRP R559s and i can comfortably fit 38 knobs. I have even seen 43mm Rock n Roads on a Ram. Let me attach a photo of a build I saw.

Bryan

On Feb 24, 2026, at 2:44 PM, Victor Meng <victo...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thank you all for chiming in.  I appreciate the input.  

Johnny - you raise a fair point.  I like the GKs just fine, and wonder if I should just leave well enough alone.  I've read such great things about RH tires though...

Ben - thanks for your comment.  If I understand it correctly, I think I have enough clearance from the Racer Ms I've got on the Ram.  One follow up question though:  have the Barlow Passes on your two Rams expanded over time like Patrick mentioned?  Not sure if my chainstay will have enough clearance if the Barlow Pass expand appreciably over time.  

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<IMG_0192.jpeg>

[Rusty Jefferson]

Still a newbie in this group. I love this thread and subscribed to it. The Rams all look great. Will post a picture of my wife's when the weather improves. :-)

Rim width is the key factor to ultimate tire width. As an example, I have RH 32mm Stampede Pass tires on a bike. With a 16.5mm wide internal rim the tire measures 29.75mm. On a 25mm internal rim, the same tire measures 33.25mm, and in my opinion, rides better. When larger tires go on narrower rims they get an hourglass shape and feel squishy.

Jim in Annapolis

[Ben Miller]

Victor, Those Paul Racer's M should give you the best clearance! I have Paul Racers on my Ram for that very reason, but on my wife's Ram are Tektro R539 dual pivots and they eat up a bit of clearance. Jim brings up a good point about rim width. My wife's Barlow's measure a full mm smaller on her Araya RC-540 rims with an internal 13 mm width over mine which are mounted on Mavic a319's with 19 mm internal width (37.5 mm vs 38.5 mm, respectively for the Barlow Passes). After initial mounting and riding, I've never experienced any measurable growth of a Barlow Pass tire. 

Bryan, that is one sweet looking Ram! I definitely could not fit Rock n Roads on my wife's Ram, even with Paul Racer's. Mayyyybeeee (?) I could just fit them on my Ram, but just barely clear the rear brake bridge, which also looks tight in that photo. But I wouldn't feel comfortable about it... Good to know that the Steilacoom's work for you!

Jim, please share you photo! Rams are probably my favorite Riv to ogle :)

[Bernard Duhon]

I have run them both & would like know if the brain trust can compare for me the "ride comfort" level of them

 

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From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Corwin Zechar <cz...@sonic.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2026 11:54 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: My Rambouillet Build

 

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[Corwin Zechar]

Hi Bernard -

I really dig the ride of the Rene Herse tires. Even in the Endurance casing. Unfortunately, Rene Herse tires do not do well in my urban environment. In the poorer areas, there is lots of glass and trash. In the wealthier areas, there is lots of construction debris. Both create lots of flats for me.

I have found Schwalbe Marathon Supremes to be virtually impervious to flats. I have discovered long pins, nails, etc sticking out of my Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. I love Schwalbe. I would ride Rene Herse tires in a less harsh environment. The 38 mm Schwalbe Marathon Supremes are still a comfortable ride.

Regards,

Coriwn

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[Josh C]

Very classy build, Ben. Love it.

[Jeremy Till]

Victor, I am one of those who have run 38-40mm tires on my green Rambouillet (I think it's one of the later ones, circa 2006-7). At this point I've used three different tires in that range, WTB Nano (700x40), RH Steilacoom (700x38), and most recently the Panaracer Gravel King SK (they're marked 700x40/38-622, not exactly sure what to make of that). I'd say the two things that made this possible in my case were 1) using Paul Racer M brakes, like you and 2) using narrow rims, which had the effect of making the actual width of the tires narrower, as others have noted. The original rims on my bike were Velocity Aeroheads, which are old-school narrow road rims, and I've recently been running a set of older Mavic Open Pros which are similar. The Nanos measured something like 37.5mm and the Steilacoom and Panaracers something like 36mm on these rims. I see you're using Sun CR-18 rims, and I know from experience that those are wider than either of the rims I've used. I bet that the actual width of your 35mm Gravel Kings isn't all that different than the actual width of the wider tires on the narrower rims on my bike. If it were me, I'd stick with your current setup. 

My bike with Nanos: https://flic.kr/p/2mXmCj6

and with Steilacooms: https://flic.kr/p/2po9rF8

Don't have any good pictures of it with the GK's yet, sorry. 

-Jeremy Till

Sacramento, CA

[GAJett]

Wanted to chime in on the Huret Duopar Eco.  I've run mine for about 25 years on my '74 Raleigh Competition where it shifted just fine on a 13-15-17-20-23-26 freewheel (at least for a friction-shifting half-step+granny old dog).  But just today I changed the freewheel to a 14-15-17-21-26-32 and it's not quite so smooth.

tl;dr

The RComp originally ran a Huret Jubilee on a close ratio Regina 5-speed, and a Jubilee in front.  I changed the original 42-52 3-pin TA crankset to a 49-46-26 half-step + granny and the 13-26 SunTour Ultra-6 when I started touring way back then.  I also changed the rear mech to an early SunTour Cyclone long cage to handle the extra chain wrap for the granny and a SunTour Cyclone up front.  Unfortunately the rear mech got broken in transit so I found and installed the Duopar Eco rear mech.  The was partly on the advise of a Frank Berto article in Bicycling back then, and partly because I wanted to go back the an all Huret derailleur package.

Fast forward to 2010 when I bought my Hilson setting up a 24-41-44 chainset with a Shimano 12-36 cluster on back.  At that time I moved the front Cyclone from the RComp to the Hilsen.  The front Jubilee went back on the RComp and has shifted reliably for 15 years now. 

Just yesterday I finished regearing the now 50-year-old Raleigh with a 50-45-26 up front and a hand-built 14-32 rear.  Unfortunately, in early testing, the Duopar does not want to shift as well over the slightly bigger steps in back.  I will try to install a longer chain to see if that might reduce the issue by allowing the top pulley to sit closer the the cogs..

GAJett