1x11 suggestions

[Bryan H]

Hello decided to try 1x11 on my susie build, going with a XT deore 11 speed cassette. For the derailleur and shifter would love to keep it a classic silver/polish look. Any suggestions on this? Modern derailleurs are appealing to avoid lots of chain slap however couldn't find anything with the look and performance I'm going for. Any suggestions greatly appreciated! 

Bryan

Walnut Creek, CA 

[Piaw Na]

I've had very good luck with the m5100 series, but they only come in black. My wife is running the U8000 CUES rear derailleur, but it's also black. I think all the 1x derailleurs Shimano makes come only in black.

[David]

1x systems abound but not in silver. I guess it’s a combo of manufacturing costs and lack of demand. Shimano did make a limited addition GRX derailleur in silver which can be had on eBay for quite a bit of money (c.$400). 

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[David Ross]

Oh, also Madrone is a new boutique company that makes a 1x derailleur in silver. You can spec it for 11 speed shimano. 

[Seung Vo]

Wow that madrone looks nice! Have you tried it or know anyone that has? Worried it won’t be reliable but they look very nice 

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[David Ross]

They’re super robust derailleurs largely marketed to hardcore MTB riders. They also sell replacement parts for their derailleurs as well as some SRAM products. The derailleur itself is built like a tank, so I think they’ll be reliable for the average Rivendell use case. To me, the only issue is cost, but from everything I’ve read, they’re incredibly durable. I will pull the trigger one one when and if they start supporting Shimano Linkglide cassettes. I think they only support hyperglide at present. 

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[Piaw Na(藍俊彪)]

On Wed, Oct 1, 2025 at 9:14 AM David Ross <dros...@gmail.com> wrote:

They’re super robust derailleurs largely marketed to hardcore MTB riders. They also sell replacement parts for their derailleurs as well as some SRAM products. The derailleur itself is built like a tank, so I think they’ll be reliable for the average Rivendell use case. To me, the only issue is cost, but from everything I’ve read, they’re incredibly durable. I will pull the trigger one one when and if they start supporting Shimano Linkglide cassettes. I think they only support hyperglide at present. 

There's no difference between linkglide and hyperglide from the point of view of the rear derailleur. If you're shifting in friction there's no reason the hyperglide derailleur wouldn't work. 

[David Ross]

Very true if you’re using friction, which I am not. I use my Gus as a true mountain bike, so trimming gears in the fly isn’t really a viable option. I’m indexed only at this point. 

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[Seung Vo]

hi David, do you have photos of your gus? What set up are you going with? Thanks for all your input!

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[Erik]

I

I  run 1x11 on my Gus and have since I built it.  I’ve run two different set-ups: currently it’s just a standard SRAM GX 1x11.  I ride my Gus really hard and wanted to the clutch derailleur.  Previously, I ran an XT with a drop tab and silver shifter.  See pic.  It worked just fine but the chain slapped a lot, hence the move to SRAM.  

[Erik]

[David Ross]

I’m running a Deore 1x11 with a Microshift thumb shifter and a 34T front chainring. As I mentioned, I also ride my Gus hard so a clutch derailleur and indexed shifting are better for my purposes. I’m currently building up another Gus project and am planning on using a 10 Speed Linkglide setup on that bike. Linkglide has wider cassettes, so the 11 speed doesn’t really work with 135mm rear spacing (something to keep in mind if you’re thinking about Linkglide)  

On Wed, Oct 1, 2025 at 1:15 PM Erik <litho...@gmail.com> wrote:

I

I  run 1x11 on my Gus and have since I built it.  I’ve run two different set-ups: currently it’s just a standard SRAM GX 1x11.  I ride my Gus really hard and wanted to the clutch derailleur.  Previously, I ran an XT with a drop tab and silver shifter.  See pic.  It worked just fine but the chain slapped a lot, hence the move to SRAM.  

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[Seung Vo]

I’m thinking of going sram, do you know if a 12 speed would work? I’m also considering axs non transmission Ha!

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[Piaw Na(藍俊彪)]

SRAM 12s pretty much requires that you use XD/XDR drivers, which may or may not be compatible with your wheel. There's one 12s cassette that works with regular hyperglide cassettes. The advantage of using XDR drivers is that you get to use the 10-52 Eagle cassettes which gives you an extra gear on the high end.

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[Seung Vo]

Would the eagle set up work on a Susie? I’m building up a wheelset with white industries so going XDR is not a problem. 

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[Piaw Na(藍俊彪)]

On Wed, Oct 1, 2025 at 11:18 AM Seung Vo <bshm...@gmail.com> wrote:

Would the eagle set up work on a Susie? I’m building up a wheelset with white industries so going XDR is not a problem. 

Yes. You can even buy a kit that includes shifters (probably the thumb shifters if you have flat bars), rear derailleur, charger, and battery (e.g. https://tinyurl.com/4zszswvv). The setup is easily done.  

[Seung Vo]

Okay great, I may give it a go. Wish it was more of a polish/silver look but I to need a clutch since I’ll take it on the trails often. I was just nervous of the 12 speed not fitting on the 135 rear but sounds like it’s not a issue. Thank you!

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[Nick Shoemaker]

I've been gradually tweaking my Clem's 1x setup over the past 3 years of using it (almost) exclusively as a mountain bike:

All iterations: Silver2 Thumbie under the bar

1st iteration: XTR Rapid Rise derailer, 175mm 36t M730 crank, Riv/SRide 7s 13-42 cassette

Conclusion: so much chain slap & so many dropped chains....

2nd iteration: same as above, but with 10s Deore clutch derailer

Conclusion: no more chain slap, but shifter throw was too long....

3rd iteration: same as above, but with 9s SunRace M900 clutch derailer

Conclusion: very happy with the shifting, but too many pedal strikes (plus one surprise chainring strike!)....

Current iteration: SunRace M900 clutch derailer, Cues 165mm 30t crank (xtra-sooper-boost 55mm chainline), Linkglide 9s 11-36 cassette, just one (1!) 126-link Linkglide chain

Conclusion: done tinkering....

I also wanted friction + clutch + silver vibes, but I kinda love how it looks with the black drivetrain now. Not that it matters, since the functionality is so vastly superior to any other iteration. Oh, and the whole drivetrain set me back $261...

[Jeffrey Arita]

Bryan:

Sorry, late to respond but here goes: we have used a Shimano XT M8000-series RD for many tours, including the one we are currently on (Japan).  It is the 'SGS' or long-cage model which I believe has one of the largest capacities currently out there (why I chose to buy it in 2019).

That RD is currently setup with a triple crankset (46 - 33 - 20) [yes, a 20(!) tooth small chainring].  The cassette is a Shimano Ultegra 11-speed, 11-34), using friction bar end shifters.  The drivetrain is on a Co-Motion coupled tandem with full panniers, handlebar bag, two large drybags, etc.  I didn't know how hilly Japan could be, so I erred on the lower end of the gearing spectrum.  Glad we did as the 20 / 34 combo has been used a lot (650b tires).  That ultra low gear sure is easy on aging knees.

My point with the Shimano XT M8000 SGS is it handles a very wide range of gearing, handy if you ever want to perhaps go with a double or triple crankset in the future.  As a 1x11 speed it won't even be breaking a sweat 😉.  It isn't silver but it certainly does the job and it has been reliable.

Good luck,

Jeff & Lori

Touring Japan
 

[Zachary Cannon]

It doesn't attend to aesthetics, but XT 12 speed rear derailleurs handles up to a 51 tooth cassette, while XT 11 speed only handle 46 sometimes. The cable pull is virtually identical as well as the price these days, so I run 12 speed with 11 speed cassette and shifters for mountain applications.

I then repurposed the 11 speed for a 1x11 road application with suntour barend shifters and a Wolf Tooth tanpan. With any tanpan, any friction shifters should work (thumb, downtube or bar end). That would also be true for SRAM 11 and 12 speed. 

I find the shifting gaps to be easy unless I'm in a painful place on a climb. That can sometimes cause clumsy shifts.

Best, Zach in ABQ

[Seung Vo]

Thank you everyone for the input. For those that have a Susie, any idea which chainring I need in terms of offset? I am running square taper 3 bolt mount with 113x73 bottom bracket. If I plan on running a 1x12 or 1x11 would I get 3mm, 6mm or 0mm offset chainring? Thank you 

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[Ben Miller]

I've been running an 1x11 with a 11spd 11-51 cassette on my Romanceur for a long time now. Got the Deore M5100 RD tying it all together. It's a great derailleur, but I did find the out-of-box aesthetics to be lacking. If you're comfortable servicing derailleur jockey wheels, you can make it mostly silver. I know, cause that's what I did. I removed the lower cage and spray painted it with rustoleum silver paint. It both turned out better and held up more than I'd hoped. It turned a great RD into one that I also now enjoy looking at. 

[Will Boericke]

I'm unaware of a silver 1x11 RD (other than boutique items).  The Deore mentioned above is what lives on at least 3 bikes in my household: cheap, effective, just works, like all Shimano things.

WIll

[maxcr]

Check out Garbaruk - they're pricey but amazing - I have their cage on my Hunqa and it's very pretty and very silver (and orange). Analog carries them and so does Cambridge Bicycles here in MA.

Best,

Max

[Conway Bennett]

Deore 5100 is a dark horse, OEM group, and it's the widest range drivetrain that will work on an HG cassette body.  I prefer the feel of the 11 speed shifting over the 10 speed Advent X group.  In general, I have come to the prefer modern systems with clutches and narrow wide chainrings.  I still do use friction though.

[Roberta]

I have Garbaruk on my Platy since 2020, spec-ed and installed by Analog, and not have any issues with it. my big ring is black but I wish I had gotten it in a more interesting color. 

Roberta 

[Seung Vo]

Would anyone know what offset chainring I need for a 1x set up on a Susie? My cranks are square taper 3 bolt sram mount and need to choose a offset. Thank you!

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[david.h....@gmail.com]

SRAM Rival CX1 with replacement cage. I saw this on Blue Lug’s Blog. The derailleur was $75 and the cage was another $30 with the added benefit of the large pulley wheel 

[Piaw Na]

On Thursday, October 2, 2025 at 8:29:51 AM UTC-7 captaincon...@gmail.com wrote:

Deore 5100 is a dark horse, OEM group, and it's the widest range drivetrain that will work on an HG cassette body.  I prefer the feel of the 11 speed shifting over the 10 speed Advent X group.  In general, I have come to the prefer modern systems with clutches and narrow wide chainrings.  I still do use friction though

Just by making that statement you just jinxed me. After 12000 miles, the m5100 rear derailleur on my touring bike started squeaking. I checked the guide pulley, and sure enough, the bushing now has a giant hole in it! This is the first time anything like this has happened to me on any of my bikes. Granted, that bike lives a hard life (come to think about it, all my bikes live a hard life), and replacement pulley sets are $10 on Amazon, but now I'm glad I have two road bikes. (My spare is my Rivendell Roadini!)

[Will Boericke]

Piaw,

I’m happy you posted this!  My 5100 on a commuter lives a hard life.  I disassembled, cleaned and greased and still have squeaks.  I’ll order new pulleys.  Perhaps replacement sealed bearing units?

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[Piaw Na(藍俊彪)]

On Fri, Oct 3, 2025 at 8:56 AM Will Boericke <wboe...@gmail.com> wrote:

Piaw,

I’m happy you posted this!  My 5100 on a commuter lives a hard life.  I disassembled, cleaned and greased and still have squeaks.  I’ll order new pulleys.  Perhaps replacement sealed bearing units?

I ordered both a replacement pulley set and found on eBay the Ultegra level GRX822 rear derailleur which will work as a replacement for the entire derailleur for $80 + tax + shipping. (A new m5100 is $28 or so on eBay, but I figured I can afford to splurge on fancy parts on my most used bike)  We'll see which one gets to me first. 

[Piaw Na]

The GRX 822 showed up first and I installed it! I expected a 20g weight savings but it turned out to be more like 60g. The barrel adjuster is also quite nice, and the niggling clacking noise on my bike is now gone. (And to think I was suspecting that the frame was cracking when it was just a rear derailleur pulley going bad!)

[Bryan H]

Thank you everyone for suggestions! I have decided to go with shimano 1x12 on my lugged susie. I am still figuring out chainline and which chain ring to get. I posted in another thread but figured i would post it here as well.  I have purchased a white industries 73x113mm BB to pair them up with paul 100% cranks. I am confused on which offset chainring i need to get the correct chain line. When i look at pauls chart its recommending i need -3 or -6 offset to achieve a 49mm or 52mm chain line. Which in todays standards is very odd as most chainrings are 0, 3, 6mm. I am not even able to find any minus chainrings for purchase. Any suggestions on this? I attached a photo of Pauls chart, thank you!

[Bill Lindsay]

"When i look at pauls chart its recommending i need -3 or -6 offset to achieve a 49mm or 52mm chain line. Which in today's standards is very odd as most chainrings are 0, 3, 6mm. I am not even able to find any minus chainrings for purchase. Any suggestions on this? I attached a photo of Pauls chart, thank you!"

This is just a conceptual error.  What Paul is calling a -3mm chain ring, that's exactly the same thing that other vendors call 3mm.  All offset rings go inboard.  My instinct (guess) from the chart would be to go for 49mm chain line, but if it were me I would measure exactly where the gap between cogs 6 and 7 is, and use that as my guide.  If that measured number is about 49, then that's what I would shoot for.  Then, when I did the build, I would take a close look at tire clearance in the lowest gear, and then decide if I want to go to 52mm chain line.  Ideally, you'd have both 3mm and 6mm rings on hand and test fit both and then decide, but that's why doing a build in a shop is easier, because all the parts are there.  Again, my gut is 49mm.  I will offer a full refund of what you paid for my advice if I'm wrong.  :)

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[David Ross]

I’d go with a 52mm chainline and this chainring: 

https://www.jensonusa.com/sram-eagle-steel-direct-mount-chainring-34t-3mm-offset?loc=usa&pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=&pt_keyword=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23020030719&gbraid=0AAAAAD_vN010lGfopdgY6wRyym8vfCFyv

Steel chainrings are just the best. The Susie isn’t sensitive to chainline because of the long chain stays. 52 will give you max tire clearance. 

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[Bill Lindsay]

"52 will give you max tire clearance"

52 will give more tire clearance than 49. That's true.  55 would give even more than 52 though, if tire clearance is what one is going for.  :)

It depends on what the prime motivators are in the mind of the builder: best possible chain line or best possible tire clearance, or "Good enough" on both.  

BL in EC

[Seung Vo]

Amazing! Thank you for the responses. I’ll go for the 52mm chainline with a 3mm offset ring. The only reason I thought minus because in pauls video he states minus offset 3 and 6. Here is a clip of the video. Thank you very much for all the great info, feel reassured that i can go and grab a chainring thats accessible for this build. 

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxMIyOkMuR4aXLMmB9xbWDliLs3KWdKzDd?si=_srJs9oC3a-eZ2cN

Bryan

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[Richard Rose]

I am surprised by the 113 bottom bracket. For my Gus (similar to Susie?) Riv sent me a 122.5 labeled +1mm drive side. I am running it with the wide/low Silver crank. I have been curious about this since new as I have a lot of crank arm clearance. But, I am running 2.6” Honcho’s and have no tire clearance issues. I could definitely use a narrower bb but not sure how much narrower without having some tire rub? In short, I am very curious to see/hear how this works out for you. Oh yes, mine is a Jim 7 speed cluster. If that matters?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2025, at 12:04 PM, Seung Vo <bshm...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Robert Blunt]

I really like the garbaruk cassettes because you can get sram or shimano drivers in eleven and twelve speed. I use sram rival 1 and think it shifts flawlessly.

Robert Blunt

Pennington, NJ

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[David Ross]

Also, when getting a chainring, please keep in mind that 12 speed shimano isn’t compatible with all chainrings. Wolftooth and others sell chainrings specifically for 12 speed shimano. 

On Wed, Oct 1, 2025 at 10:46 AM Bryan H <bshm...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello decided to try 1x11 on my susie build, going with a XT deore 11 speed cassette. For the derailleur and shifter would love to keep it a classic silver/polish look. Any suggestions on this? Modern derailleurs are appealing to avoid lots of chain slap however couldn't find anything with the look and performance I'm going for. Any suggestions greatly appreciated! 

Bryan

Walnut Creek, CA 

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[Seung Vo]

Honestly I picked 113mm based on what I read on the riv website under the silver cranks section. It states “On road bikes with straight (normal) chain stays, mount it on a 107-110mm square taper BB (JIS). If your bike has bowed-out chain stays like most mountain bikes, it might need a 113mm" With your 122.5mm bb do you have loads of clearance? Do you have a photo? thank you

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[Richard Rose]

I remember reading the exact same thing. But, I was on the phone with Williams & others at Riv & they wanted to know what tires I was using. I told them 2.6” & they put me on hold. Came back and consensus was to get the 122.5 with the offset. If memory serves I was wanting one of the IRD bottom brackets but they did not have one in stock that they thought would work. Some amateur pics here. I have never had a tire rub but there is not a lot of clearance. BTW, the bike is fantastic. And, I have considered the same 1x that you are looking at. But my 2x7 actually works good.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2025, at 1:12 PM, Seung Vo <bshm...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Richard Rose]

Spell check changed “Will” to “Williams”.:(

Did the pics come through?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2025, at 2:12 PM, Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:

I remember reading the exact same thing. But, I was on the phone with Williams & others at Riv & they wanted to know what tires I was using. I told them 2.6” & they put me on hold. Came back and consensus was to get the 122.5 with the offset. If memory serves I was wanting one of the IRD bottom brackets but they did not have one in stock that they thought would work. Some amateur pics here. I have never had a tire rub but there is not a lot of clearance. BTW, the bike is fantastic. And, I have considered the same 1x that you are looking at. But my 2x7 actually works good.

[Mike Rossi]

I originally had a 122.5 BB on my post-apocalyptic Clem on steroids (lugged Susie) with 2.3 knobby’s and it was “perfect”. I switched to 2.1 GKSK’s and tried a 113mm BB, but the clearance on the granny ring was way too close for my taste(with a 7 speed cassette). I now have a 118mm BB on there and it’s “perfect” again.

Mike who has every size of Shimano UN-300 Rossi

On Oct 11, 2025, at 2:44 PM, Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:

Spell check changed “Will” to “Williams”.:(

Did the pics come through?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2025, at 2:12 PM, Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:

I remember reading the exact same thing. But, I was on the phone with Williams & others at Riv & they wanted to know what tires I was using. I told them 2.6” & they put me on hold. Came back and consensus was to get the 122.5 with the offset. If memory serves I was wanting one of the IRD bottom brackets but they did not have one in stock that they thought would work. Some amateur pics here. I have never had a tire rub but there is not a lot of clearance. BTW, the bike is fantastic. And, I have considered the same 1x that you are looking at. But my 2x7 actually works good.

<image0.jpeg>

<image1.jpeg>

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[Zachary Cannon]

I'm a bit confused about discussions of bottom bracket lengths without reference to cranks. If someone has those Paul cranks on their Riv, that's relevant, but unless they're running Paul's and running single speed, it should cause neither worry not comfort. Sugino ATs and XDs require very different cranks on the same frame. A double set up may have chainring issues on the inner ring that aren't relevant for a 1x set up.

As Bill said regarding chainrings and has said regarding bottom brackets, this is why dialing in chainline is easier at the _right_ shop or if you have a run on bottom brackets in 2mm increments. That makes initial setup of a particular crank/bottom bracket/chainring/frame combo time consuming, but allows you to dial chainline down to the mm. 

It sounds like a great project. Good luck! Zach (in ABQ) 

[Mike Rossi]

I should have mentioned I have Silver cranks, and that my comment was geared more towards Richard into how narrow he could go. 

Mike who experiments instead of measuring Rossi

On Oct 11, 2025, at 8:19 PM, Zachary Cannon <zsca...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm a bit confused about discussions of bottom bracket lengths without reference to cranks. If someone has those Paul cranks on their Riv, that's relevant, but unless they're running Paul's and running single speed, it should cause neither worry not comfort. Sugino ATs and XDs require very different cranks on the same frame. A double set up may have chainring issues on the inner ring that aren't relevant for a 1x set up.

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[Richard Rose]

Well, that is why I mention that I have a Silver double. This whole subject of correct bottom brackets for a given crank on a given frame is fascinating to me. I am as curious as everyone else as to if a 113 bb with a Paul crank will work perfectly on a Susie. I just thought my experience might be relevant? I can’t wait to find out what the correct answer is.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 11, 2025, at 8:19 PM, Zachary Cannon <zsca...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm a bit confused about discussions of bottom bracket lengths without reference to cranks. If someone has those Paul cranks on their Riv, that's relevant, but unless they're running Paul's and running single speed, it should cause neither worry not comfort. Sugino ATs and XDs require very different cranks on the same frame. A double set up may have chainring issues on the inner ring that aren't relevant for a 1x set up.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/4c8372af-8626-4098-b499-183b896bdddan%40googlegroups.com.

[Hoch in UT]

Apologies if I missed this. But I’m fairly certain going 12-speed will then limit your chainring/crank options, especially if you’re ST. And wheels, since you need microspline. Basically, everything needs to be 12-speed specific. 

I did that with SRAM and found out the hard/expensive way. 

These days, I stick to good old 8-9 speed parts. 

[Seung Vo]

I am building a frame up, i have so far White industries 135mm hub w/ microscoline driver, shimano XTR 10-51 12 speed cassette, Shimano Chain, White industries 73x113 BB, Paul 100% cranks. The only remaining part i need is a chainring. I am hoping the 113mm BB will work just fine and get me the 52mm chainline with a 3mm offset ring. Well see what happens, i would love to have the shop do it but i pride myself in doing my builds myself and want to give it a go. Thank you all for your suggestions!

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[Zachary Cannon]

https://www.paulcomp.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/PRNTCR04_2025.pdf

This Paul doc provides the q factor and chainline for each bottom bracket length and chainring combo for the Pure cranks. 

A safe way to ensure chainstay clearance would to try to match the q factor that Rivendell sends the bikes out with. However, if you are q sensitive, then you can shoot for a narrower q with an eye to chainstay clearance from the crank by experimenting with a narrower bottom bracket and using 3/6mm chainrings to achieve your desired chainrings. The offset chainrings will take care of chainring and tire/chainstay interface. I imagine I'd tolerate less clearance in my personal build than Riv would be willing to spec generally. 

This Paul system does seem clever since with a White Ind square taper crank, you can't narrow the bottom bracket/q factor without bringing the chainline in. They only offset the chainrings designed with their hollowtech-style cranks in mind. Though for each style of crank, they have road vs mountain crank arms with slightly different but still fairly wide q factors. And I often am trying to optimize what I have with a hope of not having to start from scratch with a new crank.

Once you have some data, perhaps post the bb length, chainring offset, measured q factor and measured chainline as a data point for future Paul Pure users. 

Good luck! Zach in ABQ

[Tyler Ryan]

SunRace and Sram both make 12 speed cassettes that work with standard hyper glide:

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/sram-pg-1230-eagle-12spd-cassette?adl=1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=229749626&gbraid=0AAAAAD_gqPnoScVlJqWNtgVHXZSihHKdb&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6bfHBhDNARIsAIGsqLhgOb3WFFjH5DwMnX8yw6V6wNol1i5bVxyhEjg_OoUJsB_KLJFsbWAaAiJSEALw_wcB

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=97905&attribute=239724&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=793175996&gbraid=0AAAAAD8_PrUpT8qJ1MkE8_jIKj1-BVrF6&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6bfHBhDNARIsAIGsqLgmo1u3-Bm-hnYepaGfB7E8Ks8547WUNqrtPQQEZXp2hzPFcH_9g30aAhD9EALw_wcB

I used the sram pg-1230 in a Shimano system(RD-M7100-SGS) and SLX shifters with no issues on a Surly Troll.

[Seung Vo]

Do you know what chainring and bottom bracket size you are using? Thank you 

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[Piaw Na(藍俊彪)]

Both of those cassettes are relatively heavy (705g and 615g). The XX Eagle SRAM Cassette is 400g or so by contrast, and the Gabaruk equivalent is 300g or so. Going to a 300/400g cassette makes the 1x system way lighter than a 2x system, in addition to being more reliable.

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[Will Boericke]

How many $ per saved ounce do you want to spend?  Eagle cassette is a $400 part, Garbaruk is a relative bargain at $240.  In my book, that's 6-10 of the heavier cassettes.

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[Bill Lindsay]

Nevermind the magnitude.  Consider the source.  Piaw Na in this very thread referred to an $80 derailleur purchase (vs the $28 alternative) as a "splurge on fancy parts". Now he's dissing a $65 cassette because a $400 cassette (that won't even fit on the target hub) is way lighter.  HAHA!

Anyway, many gram chasers start to cringe when it's over $1 per gram.  So in the situation where somebody has an XD driver, and a worn out cassette, then buying that Garbabuk looks like a bargain.  

I'm in a quandary over this thread and the LG700 cassette.  It's expensive ($140) and heavy, but it's supposed to friction shift better than anything out there.  I kind of need to try it, but I don't want to spend that kind of money on a heavy bike part.  I'll keep waffling.  

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[Piaw Na(藍俊彪)]

On Wed, Oct 15, 2025 at 5:58 AM Will Boericke <wboe...@gmail.com> wrote:

How many $ per saved ounce do you want to spend?  Eagle cassette is a $400 part, Garbaruk is a relative bargain at $240.  In my book, that's 6-10 of the heavier cassettes.

My metric is typically $1 per gram. I did upgrade both my son and my wife's bikes to Garbaruk cassettes. I declined to do my own because the shifting quality suffered, and I'm heavier and more abusive of drivetrain than either of them.