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Ted, thanks. I am beginning to understand the slopping TT and what that means. From what I am reading I would be a 51 on the Homer and Appaloosa and a 50 on the Atlantis. My Bleriot was a bargain as these new MIT models are snout what I paid for my first Road, and my next custom was just a tad more. The Longer chain stays would be welcome if the increase comfort, my back would appreciate that. I am also curious about he stability of the front end, the Bleriot is good but just today I noticed a bit of a twitchy feel which could have been me. I have new 42mm tires on but I don’t think that would have caused it.
Thanks, Joel
On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 12:46 PM ted <ted....@comcast.net> wrote:
--Joel,The top tubes of most MIT Rivs (including the MIT AHH and Atlantis) have significantly more slope than the older models like your Bleriot.Therefore the size for a given bar height with respect to seat height is smaller, and ones proper size based on pbh is smaller.Stand over is increased by about half the difference in size (with respect to a more horizontal tt model).Just changing the top tube slope should not cause perceptible differences in the ride qualities of an otherwise identical design.The new MIT Atlantis and AHH also have longer chain stays (and I presume wheelbases) than the earlier Toyo and Waterford versions. I think there are other threads that speak to how these versions ride and handling compare, but a short answer would be longer wb and sitting further from the rear axle should give a smoother ride over bumps.
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 7:10:42 AM UTC-7, Joel Stern wrote:I was really confused at first at the A Homer Hilson, Appaloosa and the new Atlantis. The sizing is very different than of old, like for my Bleriot where I ride a 55cm bike, looks like on the Hilson and Appaloosa I would take a 51cm and on the new Atlantis a 50. So my question for those that follow this do any of these have a more relaxed geometry or a more comfortable ride than my Bleriot which is already comfortable? What can anyone tell me about the sizing changes? When Grant measured me years ago I believe he had my PBH to 83 or a bit more, while when I had help from my wife today it was on first measurement 80.645 and on second at 81.28 and a third at 82.5. Now when Grant measure me I thought I would pass out (well not really but it was a bit drastic) and the bike had no extra standover for me. The Bleriot has a bit of standover so I have no doubt that I could probably go down a bit. It also looks like the TT have gotten even longer on these bikes, not maybe the added degree of slope makes that a non issue and maybe there is something there with position of the rider on these.Do the longer chain stays contribute to more comfort?I also ride upright.So I guess I am confused.Any input is appreciated.Thanks, Joel
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Ted, thanks. I am beginning to understand the slopping TT and what that means. From what I am reading I would be a 51 on the Homer and Appaloosa and a 50 on the Atlantis. My Bleriot was a bargain as these new MIT models are snout what I paid for my first Road, and my next custom was just a tad more. The Longer chain stays would be welcome if the increase comfort, my back would appreciate that. I am also curious about he stability of the front end, the Bleriot is good but just today I noticed a bit of a twitchy feel which could have been me. I have new 42mm tires on but I don’t think that would have caused it.
Thanks, Joel
On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 12:46 PM ted <ted....@comcast.net> wrote:
--Joel,The top tubes of most MIT Rivs (including the MIT AHH and Atlantis) have significantly more slope than the older models like your Bleriot.Therefore the size for a given bar height with respect to seat height is smaller, and ones proper size based on pbh is smaller.Stand over is increased by about half the difference in size (with respect to a more horizontal tt model).Just changing the top tube slope should not cause perceptible differences in the ride qualities of an otherwise identical design.The new MIT Atlantis and AHH also have longer chain stays (and I presume wheelbases) than the earlier Toyo and Waterford versions. I think there are other threads that speak to how these versions ride and handling compare, but a short answer would be longer wb and sitting further from the rear axle should give a smoother ride over bumps.
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 7:10:42 AM UTC-7, Joel Stern wrote:I was really confused at first at the A Homer Hilson, Appaloosa and the new Atlantis. The sizing is very different than of old, like for my Bleriot where I ride a 55cm bike, looks like on the Hilson and Appaloosa I would take a 51cm and on the new Atlantis a 50. So my question for those that follow this do any of these have a more relaxed geometry or a more comfortable ride than my Bleriot which is already comfortable? What can anyone tell me about the sizing changes? When Grant measured me years ago I believe he had my PBH to 83 or a bit more, while when I had help from my wife today it was on first measurement 80.645 and on second at 81.28 and a third at 82.5. Now when Grant measure me I thought I would pass out (well not really but it was a bit drastic) and the bike had no extra standover for me. The Bleriot has a bit of standover so I have no doubt that I could probably go down a bit. It also looks like the TT have gotten even longer on these bikes, not maybe the added degree of slope makes that a non issue and maybe there is something there with position of the rider on these.Do the longer chain stays contribute to more comfort?I also ride upright.So I guess I am confused.Any input is appreciated.Thanks, Joel
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About the production frames, I had a 51cm Appaloosa, great bike, I think you would love it.
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Speaking of which (sorry I'm not remembering everything and putting it all in one post), Rich Lesnik @ Riv is selling a very nice 51 Appa. Look for his post "mustard-gold Appaloosa" on this list.
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Joel,
About the production frames, I had a 51cm Appaloosa, great bike, I think you would love it.
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PS. The latest 50cm Atlantis is 650B, this is a slightly older frame.
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About the arthritis which I also have, is one hand worse than the other? My bad one is the right and if you look closely at my custom you'll see that the shifters are swapped. Most of my shifting is the rear and done with my left hand on an index thumby; the right is a Silver Power Ratchet which I don't use much, and when I do I push/pull with my whole hand to avoid thumb pain. Whichever kind you use - barcons are great - I recommend putting the most-used shifter in your strongest hand.
Have fun Riv shopping and keep us posted!
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Here's a couple more photos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3wpygKkdeVfaAzh47
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I highly recommend the Shimano DXR v-brakes you see on my bike, they're super easy to disconnect for wheel removal. And pretty!
Index rear, friction front..my days of pretending I have the patience for rear friction are DONE.
I highly recommend the Shimano DXR v-brakes you see on my bike, they're super easy to disconnect for wheel removal. And pretty!
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Here's a couple more photos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3wpygKkdeVfaAzh47
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Really nice. I may have to decide if I will use my side pulls (if I can) or go to Cantis. Only used Cantis on my allrounder many years ago and sold a NOS pair of Suntour Expert I think a couple of years back. I want something easy to release and reattach.Nice colors too. Beautiful bike
On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 2:53 PM Joe Bernard <joer...@gmail.com> wrote:
Here's a couple more photos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3wpygKkdeVfaAzh47
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Hi,Standover clearance is really over rated. I find that I never stand over my bike with both feet on the ground and the bike frame perpendicular to the ground. At stops, my right foot is on the peddle and the bike is leaning to towards the left. So this adds clearance. I start off by leaning the bike towards my left side and swinging my right leg over, and clipping in the right pedal. When a start to move, I stand on the right pedal and lift myself on to the saddle. So, never is top tube clearance an issue. I’ve ridden bikes that had top tubes much higher than my crotch and it was not a problem.
I think largely it came down to two things: 6 degree slope became the norm for the top tube, and it probably rotated around the center point - so the seat end dropped, shortening the seat tube, and the head tube side went up a bit, increasing max bar height. The other thing is everything got a bit longer so that one could run either a drop bar or an upright bar in their respective size by varying stem length. Both of these changes are pretty positive to me, as much as I love the look of earlier Homers, Bleriots, Rambouillets etc. It does mean that I need to run a 5-7cm stem for drop bars when I would have run a 9ish cm on the older models, but I like the short stem setup - more room for front bags, and puts the front wheel slightly further in front of you for rough stuff
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I can't ride those B67/68 saddles, that wide shelf at the back drives me crazy. B17 forever!
Oh, I missed the saddle question. Yes B17s work for me upright, I just have to tilt it back more than my brain tells me makes sense. The pics you see are before I got it right, it's tilted now.
I can't ride those B67/68 saddles, that wide shelf at the back drives me crazy. B17 forever!
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Mark and Grant can definitely help you decide what fits your needs best these days, I'm fairly certain those needs will be different from when you bought your last Riv.
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Yes, Atlantis is canti or v-brake. You can also get a Sam Hillborne with the same brakes but otherwise is closer in nature to your Bleriot. Or AHH, which is basically a Bleriot with a lower toptube and longer stays.
Mark and Grant can definitely help you decide what fits your needs best these days, I'm fairly certain those needs will be different from when you bought your last Riv.
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John,Actually I would like to go a bit more relaxed than the Bleriiot. That put the AHH in the same category as the Bleriot from what I have been reading.
On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 3:49 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Joel--The MUSA frames were sized 2cm apart with a 2° sloping TT. Looks much better.The frame is too long for me. If not, I would ask him if it was MUSA or MIT. If MUSA, it's a very good del. If MIT, not bad deal, but unless you need his parts, you would be better off buying a new frame and getting what you want.If you liked your Bleriot, I would think a AHH-MIT is perferred to a Atlantis-MIT, for general riding with occasional tours.John HawrylakWoodstown NJ
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Joel--Have you considered a seatpost with more setback? The 1° slacker STA gives you approx 1.5cm more setback (Atlantis vs AHH) which can be obtained using a VO Grand Cru seatpost or the Nitto lugged CrMo post RBW sells.John HawrylakWoodstown NJ
On Monday, June 29, 2020 at 4:01:36 PM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:John,Actually I would like to go a bit more relaxed than the Bleriiot. That put the AHH in the same category as the Bleriot from what I have been reading.On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 3:49 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:Joel--The MUSA frames were sized 2cm apart with a 2° sloping TT. Looks much better.The frame is too long for me. If not, I would ask him if it was MUSA or MIT. If MUSA, it's a very good del. If MIT, not bad deal, but unless you need his parts, you would be better off buying a new frame and getting what you want.If you liked your Bleriot, I would think a AHH-MIT is perferred to a Atlantis-MIT, for general riding with occasional tours.John HawrylakWoodstown NJ
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