Paul Racers on a Cheviot?

[Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY)]

I've used Tektro R559's on my Cheviot from the start but was recently considering upgrading to something different due to a slight but annoying mechanical issue on the front caliper. (The release lock is stuck so in order to remove the front tire, I have to fully deflate and squeeze it between the pads.)

I noticed on Will's Staff Bikes page that he has a Paul Racer on this Chev but only up front. Guessing it's because the rear geometry wouldn't allow a hanger placement for a center pull?  

Has anyone else used this set up? Do Paul Racers have clearance for 700c x 50mm tires? The tires in Will's pic look pretty wide and he's running a fender too so it seems like there would be plenty of room. Thoughts?

[Je Mar]

Hi Justin,

I ran Paul Racer's on my Chev (thanks, Jon Dukeman of CO!) for awhile before I picked up some R559s.  Riv sells a little clamp-on cable stop (tho i don't see it on the site now) that can be mounted down near the pump peg (if I recall correctly) to accept the housing to work with Racers.  I'm only a hack-plus wrench and I was able to do it, so I imagine the more gifted among us would have no probs.

Good luck,

Jeff in Arlington, VA

[Je Mar]

Oh and I ran Schwalbe Road Cruisers which (I think we're x44) and my recollection was that they had to be taken down a bit for removal, but clearance was way fine when riding.  This is a sketchier recollection, I should add.

[Justin Kennedy]

Thanks, Jeff. Right after I posted this, I found this old pic from Adam who had Racers on front and rear and I can see here where the clamp-on cable stop could work for the rear. (Adam seems to have pretty wide tires on this too, maybe 50's.) I guess the earlier Cheviots had housing stops on the top side of the diaga-tube rather than the bottom.

Thinking I'll give this a shot. 

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[Tom Wyland]

Ive seen this done with other Cheviots as well.  You can put that cable stop much closer to the seat tube, though.  I guess with the guides on the bottom of the top tube you'll need to put on a dia-comp housing holder or something similar to run it along the top.

[Olivier Chételat]

Hello Justin,

a year ago exactly I went through the exercise of doing just that; from R559's to Paul Racer. The stopping power is much improved, incredible actually. Mushiness no more and they feel like cantilever brakes. Attached you'll see a few images that show the clearance in the front. I was running 55mm Big Bens. It's a bit too tight and went back to 50mm Supremes that actually measure 47mm on my rims. It will absolutely fit 50mm tires but I doubt you'd be able to sandwich a fender in there as well.

I hope it helps. 

Have a sunny day,

Oli

[Justin Kennedy]

Thanks Olivier. Is that an Origin8 housing/cable stop similar to this? https://www.rivbike.com/products/clamp-on-cable-stops

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[Olivier Chételat]

No, it's a nondescript, rudimentary stamped metal cable stop. It looks like it belongs to last century but is highly functional. I found other images that may be of help. The brazed on cable stop is not centered atop the tube. This device coupled to an inch-long housing solves it.

O

here:

[Joe Bernard]

Justin,

For informational purposes only because everyone has already answered that Racers work front and rear: I asked Will about his front Racer once and he said it's there because he had a front one and felt like using it. 

[Justin Kennedy]

Ha! It's pretty awesome/astounding how jalopy-ish some of the Riv staff bikes look. Will might take the cake in that department with this orange Chev which coicidentally has the same Racer-in-the-front, R559-in-the-rear set up. That hacked off front fender is 😂  

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[lconley]

There can be some very good reasons for using a centerpull on the front and a sidepull on the rear: 

1. Centerpulls generally give more clearance which is almost always a bigger issue on the front than the rear. Especially true with fenders.

2. Sidepulls sometimes fit better on the rear, especially on mixte type frames with offset cable stops - I try not to clamp things to by frame unless there is no other way. On my Rosco Bubbe V1, there is insufficient distance from a cable hanger to the straddle cable to use a center pull.

3. You don't really need the additional baking power of a centerpull on the rear, locking up the rear wheel is not the fastest way to stop.

I run the Dia-Compe DC610-N centerpull front, Tektro R559 sidepull rear combo on both my Rosco Bubbe and Betty Foy.

Laing

[Justin Kennedy]

Thanks Laing, I'm probably going to start by replacing the defective front R559 with a Paul Racer and see how it goes leaving the rear R559 in place. 

I agree -- don't love the look of adding extraneous clamps etc and I really don't like the look of a rear center-pull cable straddling the seat tube for some 

reason. Thanks for your input. 

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[Mark Roland]

Laing wrote: There can be some very good reasons for using a centerpull on the front and a sidepull on the rear: 1., 2., 3,

4. They are expensive as heck, so running one saves you lots of money.

[RichS]

Hello Justin:

Another vote for the centerpull front / R559 sidepull rear setup. Works very nicely on my Sam. The centerpull provided better clearance for a front fender. 

Adding to the props for Paul Racers, they will definitely stop you NOW.

Best,

Rich in ATL

[Justin Kennedy]

Thanks for everyone's input. A front Paul Racer is already on order. 

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[Joe Bernard]

Another funny anecdote from my brakes convo with Will is he wasn't convinced the Racer stopped any harder than a 559. Of course we're talking about a young man who rides impossibly steep trails at Mt. Diablo on a 2-speed Mixte with road brakes. I think Will can hop on anything and make it go and stop without ever noticing how he did it! 😂

[Justin Kennedy]

Got the front Racer installed with plenty of clearance! Thanks again everyone. 

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