Xtreme Hub again

[Ian Harrison]

So another front left wheel bearing has died on my Xtreme.

@Nigel I saw you shimmed the land to get the width up. Please can you confirm what dimensions you are working to?

I have found a drawing which seems to indicate the land in the hub between the bearings is 4.93mm +/- 0.03mm

http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/components/sierra_upright/ 

 Cheers

Ian

[Steve Kodź]

Ian,

Contact Rob at QSC as he's identified an issue, where it sounds like some hubs may have suffered slight distortion when being modified for use in the Xtreme.  He is currently working on a completely new and better hub that should solve this issue for those having bearing failures.  I'm not sure if these are ready yet.

Regards,
Steve

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[Ian Harrison]

Thanks to Steve. I’ve spoken to Rob who is busy developing the new hub solution and it sounds good - but unfortunately it’s not ready now, so I’m back to replacing it again and seeing if I can strike the right balance of torque when assembling. 

Cheers

Ian

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[Nigel Plant]

Hi Ian
I just typed a long response and it suddenly disappeared. Maybe I posted too early. If it shows up shortly all is good. If it doesnt I will redo later.
Regards
Nigel

[Ian Harrison]

Thanks Nigel. I’ll wait with baited breath. 

In any case the current bearing is not viable so I’ve ordered another and have the hub off the car ready. 

Cheers

Ian 

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[Nigel Plant]

Hi Ian

Yes, have had great fun with these wheel bearings. I have measured the land width and compared to the Sierra, although I don't now have the dimensions they were close, leading me to believe any issues were the protrusions, see below..  Trying various approaches over the years the problem seems to have settled.  Initially I tried a number of routes and can't honestly say any single one produced the fix, however this is what I do now and the problem has not resurfaced for a number of years.  It seemed heavily exacerbated during track days, with,I guess, the extremes of cornering, braking and accelerating.  What I now do is the following:

1.  Check the land in the centre of the hub is clean and flat with no protrusions from punch marks caused during removal.  I know from our earlier discussions you do this.

2.  Assemble and torque to spec checking that the wheel is free to rotate.  Sometimes this seems to be so.  I generally do this on the bench and always remove the hub so can easily work on it.

3.  If rotation is tight and I am positive there are no protrusions; I have a choice of three shim sizes 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3 mm thick and use minimum shims between the inner races to allow the bearing to just freely rotate.

4.  Keep checking for tightness.  I carry  a socket and bar in the car and frequently check, when it is convenient.  The only time a problem has occurred is on the track, but not had a problem for a few years now.

Having said all that, the big variation can only really be the high spots on the spacer land and I suspect early on I did not do a good enough job of flattening these.  I am probably more diligent now.  If you need any spacers they are readily available on line.  Just measure the bore size and you should find some.  If not I can mail some to you.  The other issue is which side you have the cack thread on.  Can let you know what mine is if you wish and have spent many hours and discussions trying to figure what is correct.  Mine are per standard Sierra guidelines.

Regards

Nigel

[Ian Harrison]

Thanks for the comprehensive reply Nigel. I’ll carry on with the fettle and fit method. 

I have to admit I’m struggling to understand how increasing the overall length across both bearings by using a shim stops it seizing up...

Cheers

Ian

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[Nigel Plant]

Take a look when you strip it. If the outer land has high points or is too wide the cones sit further apart. Torquing the nuts squeezes the bearing races which bear on the cones, so if the cones are too far apart, the bearings tighten. The shims space the bearings further apart. In my mind if the cone land is machined correctly and there are no high spots then the shims are not required.

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