M2 Bed heater power

[Richard Holder]

Hi, I have tried printing ABS and started with a bed temperature of 100C.  We are in the middle (almost) of the English Summer so the room where the M2 lives was a sultry 13C and it took 45 minutes to reach 100C and the ABS did not stick to the bed (Hair lacquer technique).  Reading the forums there are posts suggesting that 108C works well so I upped the bed temperature to 108C (in Creator) and waited ...... and waited ....... and waited.  There is no way I am young enough to wait long enough for the bed to reach 108C - the highest I could get was 104C after 90 minutes.  If 108C or more works with ABS is the power output of the silicone heater mat sufficient or should I contemplate 'upgrading' the heater mat to a higher power output?  I am contemplating using the Rambo heater output to control a SSD which would switch a 240V, 500W heater mat with an appropriate thermistor.   I have used these heaters before and I can see no reason why the bed should not reach 100C or more within about 15 minutes - after all there isn't a lot of metal/glass to heat up and so long as thermal shock is limited I can see no reason why this won't work.  But I could be wrong :-)

[Dean Piper]

I use this method, not on an M2, but it should work just fine. I actually can heat the pad up in about 2 minutes at most. They're just a bit on the pricey side.

-Dean

On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 3:39 PM, Richard Holder <richard...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi, I have tried printing ABS and started with a bed temperature of 100C.  We are in the middle (almost) of the English Summer so the room where the M2 lives was a sultry 13C and it took 45 minutes to reach 100C and the ABS did not stick to the bed (Hair lacquer technique).  Reading the forums there are posts suggesting that 108C works well so I upped the bed temperature to 108C (in Creator) and waited ...... and waited ....... and waited.  There is no way I am young enough to wait long enough for the bed to reach 108C - the highest I could get was 104C after 90 minutes.  If 108C or more works with ABS is the power output of the silicone heater mat sufficient or should I contemplate 'upgrading' the heater mat to a higher power output?  I am contemplating using the Rambo heater output to control a SSD which would switch a 240V, 500W heater mat with an appropriate thermistor.   I have used these heaters before and I can see no reason why the bed should not reach 100C or more within about 15 minutes - after all there isn't a lot of metal/glass to heat up and so long as thermal shock is limited I can see no reason why this won't work.  But I could be wrong :-)

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerGear - Make Today, Change Tomorrow" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to makergear+...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

[Jonathan Hirschman]

On 5/15/2013 3:39 PM, Richard Holder wrote:

Hi, I have tried printing ABS and started with a bed temperature of 100C.  We are in the middle (almost) of the English Summer so the room where the M2 lives was a sultry 13C and it took 45 minutes to reach 100C and the ABS did not stick to the bed (Hair lacquer technique).  Reading the forums there are posts suggesting that 108C works well so I upped the bed temperature to 108C (in Creator) and waited ...... and waited ....... and waited. 

It just took my unit 18 minutes to get to 110C on the bed. Room temperature is a "normal" 22C. This is with reporting through Pronterface.

FYI,

jh

[Haasen]

 

I had this problem before. Changing the direction of the electrical case did the trick. You need to suck the air in and not blowing out against the heat bed.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Michael 

 

[Dale Reed]

jh,

I think Michael letf the word "fan" out of his post.  You'll want to unscrew the fan from the lid and flip it, then screw it back down, rather than trying to flip the wires.  Better for the fan and air flow, and easier than trying to get the wires back in the electrical connector.

In my opinion, that is....

Dale

[Michael Haas]

Yes your right Dale.

Sorry!

I forgot "Changing the direction of the Fan in the electrical case did the trick"

 

Michael

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "MakerGear - Make Today, Change Tomorrow" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/makergear/aZrp6myZzFw/unsubscribe?hl=en.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to makergear+...@googlegroups.com.

For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

--
😊

[Richard Holder]

Hi,
Thanks for the suggestion about the orientation of the electrical fan - but I always start the process with the heater bed nowhere near the slight draught from the fan.  I am going to replace the heater system  with a 500W 240V or similar powered via a SSR - then I can experiment properly with bed temperatures without getting tooooooo old waiting :-)

Richard

[August]

I had a heater bed problem similar to this when I first started... eventually I figured out that I had inadvertently reversed the 12V and 19V power plugs on the side of the board. Anyway, it's been a few weeks so hopefully you've got it all ironed out by now.