Re: [MakerGear] M2: Taking a shot at a "Heathkit" style assembly manual

[Rick Pollack]

Dale - this would be great! (though I am no sure what a Heathkit manual looks like :)

Just let us know what you need and you can always stop by and see how we assemble printers.

Thanks!
Rick

On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 8:23 PM, Dale Reed <elad...@gmail.com> wrote:

All,

I ordered an M2 recently and expect it to be delivered around 2013-04-01 (no foolin').  In preparation for receiving it, I've been scouting out all the assembly documentation and videos I can find.  I have to admit, the Make Magazine 3D printing issue was right, the documentation is kind of scattered around out there.

Having built Heathkit stuff since I was about 10 years old (dad built a color TV back in about 1965, and his whole stereo was Heathkit), I've always admired their assembly manuals.  I had an SB-100 SSB Transceiver for ham radio and went through the alignment procedure in the manual on a semi-regular basis to make sure it was always transmitting a clean signal.  So I have lots of experience with their style, and I still have a couple manuals for equipment I still have (OM-11 oscilloscope, works fine).

So I've started collecting and printing documents and drawings and taking notes from the YouTube videos on unpacking and assembling the M2, and I've just started (barely) putting together an M2 assembly manual in the "Heathkit" style.  As I get further with this, I'd like to post it for your collective review to make sure I get the overall sequence right, etc., etc.

The idea is to have an Assembly manual, for purchasers of the kit, and to have an Operation manual for all M2 purchasers.  The Assembly manual would take you from opening the kit box all the way to what you would have if you had bought and unpacked a factory-assembled M2 (assuming you don't eat the chocolate while assembling).

I would especially like to draw on the experiences of anyone who has RECENTLY assembled an M2, to get your input on what order you did the assembly, what was done at the factory that you didn't have to do (no sense spending time writing up stuff that's not needed, like the lead screw / Z-axis stuff), and what you would have done differently.  For example, putting the rubber feet on the frame is shown deep in the overall assembly drawing (about step 8, if I recall correctly), but shown first on the web page with the animations.  (Personally, I would do this first because it's easy and so I can maneuver the frame around for the rest of the steps without scratching the nice desk I'll be using.)

I hope I can find time over the next month to do this.  I'll give it my best effort.

Since I live about 4 miles from MakerGear here in the Cleveland area, I want to support local business and the local maker community in some way, and this seems like a good way.  The documentation was about the only thing the M2 got dinged on in reviews.  I intend to fix that.

Rick, I may request a few "sub-drawings" if I can't copy neatly out of the PDFs I've downloaded.  Or I can just leave placeholders with descriptions or low-res screenshots so I can turn it over to you and your CAD guys can copy in the right stuff.  (I might use some photographs, if I finish this while I assemble mine...)

Anyway, THANK YOU all in advance for your help!

Best Regards,

Dale

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[Sparky]

Super idea, much needed. I just completed an M2 kit with my first print yesterday. It turned out great by the way! Heathkit assembly instructions with their line drawings were absolutely the best. An M2 manual in the classic Heathkit style would have made the process a lot less frustrating - and I'm an experienced CNCer/maker/artist/ham. Instead of line drawings, I think interactive 3D PDFs would be great.

[Tom Lombardi]

Dale, I've build a lot of Heathkit kits including the oscilloscope! The best advice I can give you is to get all of the drawings in one place, maybe a bookmark folder. I think digging around for each drawing was the biggest frustration for me. The electronics are the last thing to install, this includes the switches, motors and enclosure. My kit came with the entire Z axis assembled and installed. You could put the feet on first then build the X axis, the Y axis, but leave the heated build plate and glass for last. The good news is that if you miss something you can always go back, nothing is hidden or buried. I ended up with a lot of spare hardware because the Z axis was pre-built.

I've built three homebuilt airplanes, I remember how overwhelming the first one was, just relax and break it down into chunks. Take one drawing at a time and build it, you really can't make a mistake that can't be fixed.

This is an extremely well designed printer, you're going to love it!

Tom

[Tim]

I think I can still cough up most of the issues I had with my build, which I did a little over a month ago.  Most of it involved tracking down the instructions, but there were a fair number of issues involving errors in the documentation that continue to exist everywhere in spite of having been reported numerous times.  Just to have all the documentation in one place and to fix all the reported errors would be a huge improvement.  Then, as long as someone is willing and able to keep it up to date with corrections and additions, it can be continually improved.  If you need any help, please let me know.

[Dale Reed]

Sparky,

I may need some help in the 3D PDF department.  I was actually thinking of using a digital camera and adding callouts in Visio.  (I have a 1.3 MPixel one that can focus pretty darned close, so the files wouldn't be too huge, but the detail would be about right.)

Thanks for posting that diagram, too.  The oscilloscope manual I have is an older one, and the newer ones like you posted do a better job of using unique callouts for each major piece of hardware.  I appreciate the reminder.  I'm going to call my brother and see if he has any of the newer style manuals I can borrow.

I'll probably use a sequence/sub-sequence organization, or step/sub-step, and use callout names based on that organization.  Basically what's in the drawings now, so X-1 for X-Axis step 1, X-2 for X-Axis step 2, etc., and XA, XB, XC for the callouts for the (non-fastener) parts used in that section.  How's that sound to everyone?

The other thing I'm reminded of is how Heathkit walked you through sorting the hardware (fasteners) so you find them, check counts, etc.  I think the way Rick and his team pack the bags will work very well, and I'll probably have a "TIP" that says "During unpacking: Only open one bag at a time. Verify the count of parts, then put them back in the bag. Don't open the bag again until you reach the assembly step where its parts are used." 

Of course, I'll have to have the requisite "Tips", "Notes", "Cautions" and "Warnings" for things that make assembly easier / less frustrating, for things to pay special attention to, for things that are important so you don't damage the printer, and things that are important so you don't damage the printer, your house, or (injure, kill) yourself.  (The nozzle, after all, heats to 200+ Deg. C, so 2nd degree burns.  That sort of stuff.....)

Man, you'd think I was a perfeshinal techie wryter or sumpthin.

And to all:

Thanks for the offers of help.  I hope to find some time this weekend to lay out the basics and do a couple of instructions, stealing screenshots of the current drawing PDFs for now.  I'll post what I do and everyone can critique it.  Then I can fix the styles, etc.

I started working in LIbreOffice on Linux Mint, but I'm more used to MSOffice Word/Visio on XP/7 from work, so I'll probably do the manual with those apps.  I was having "issues" with section headers and footers in LibreOffice Writer and got frustrated...

I've also started copying chunks of forum posts on operation (bed leveling, settings, etc.) into a separate document (thanks Doug and others) that will feed into an Operation manual. But my first focus to start is the Assembly manual.

I'd also love to see someone post a page of "mods" links (like for the spool holders, bearings, etc.)

I'm sure I've bit off more than I can chew.  But I'm even more sure that with the constructive help of everyone here, this manual will be AWESOME!

Rick,

At some point I may want to stop back in and watch the factory experts in action, or at least capture the overall sequence you use.  I promise to try my best to be nothing more than a fly on the wall.  Maybe some day next week that I don't have much scheduled and can take a half day vacation....

Best to All,

Dale

[Rick Pollack]

Dale - that is fine, just email me to set it up.

[SergeyK]

I documented my experience building my M2 with a lot of pictures at http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1789243
Feel free yo use any of the photos if you find them useful.
Sergey.

[Dale Reed]

Sergey,

Got it, thanks!  VERY nice documentation of your build.  I just wish the RC Groups "printer friendly" page would show the pictures, rather than just saying "n attachments".  But that's OK, I can grab what I need.  I'm collecting and sorting it all on paper into a binder and adjusting the sequence using tabbed sheets.

There's a link in your post #6 for another builder's photos on "smugmug", but that link no longer works.  Do you know another location for those photos or a way I can contact the builder?  If not, no worries.

Thanks also to Eaglezsoar for the note on possibly needing to trim the rubber parts.  I think these were the ones at the corners of the glass for the heated bed.  I'm used to any number of kits where a touch of trimming was needed -- that's what a good, sharp X-Acto knife is for.  The injection molding splines on plastic model aircraft and cars and such always needed trimmed, same with die cut balsa for model planes and model rockets.  Another good "TIP" to include.

Much appreciated!

[SergeyK]

The smugmug link is from this topic https://groups.google.com/d/topic/makergear/anyELvY968M/discussion

If you need higher resolution pictures, I can send you the originals (6 megapixels)

[Doug]

Dale,

Sounds like ambitious project but would be great for the new M2/3D printer owners.  I started a thingiverse collection a while back to collect M2 parts and accessories  MakerGear M2 collection  You should also include a mention about the files posted on github from MakerGear, official models of the printed parts for the machine and the electronics enclosure. https://github.com/MakerGear/M2

Also since your from the Northeast Ohio area I wanted to invite you down to Akron on March 20th for a 3D printing discussion at Syn/Hak, which is the hacker space in Akron.  I'll be doing a presentation and will have my M2 and printed parts on display.  Its open to the public so any one can come.  I'm promoting this event now so if you know anyone else that may want to join bring them along.  Here is the syn/hak website http://synhak.org/wiki/Main_Page

[Dale Reed]

Doug,

I apologize that I didn't reply sooner.  Just wanted to let you know for sure that I will NOT be able to make it down to Akron for tomorrow's SYNHAK meeting.  I hope the 3D Printing presentation goes well!   (Pictures!  We need Pictures!!!)

For everyone:

Yes, I know, this thread hasn't been updated for a while.  I've collected the basic materials, diagrams, etc., and gotten set up to crank on the manual.  Had issues with LibreOffice Write.  Not software problems, I'm just a noob with it -- a long time MSWord user for work.  I got frustrated trying to get headers, footers and page numbering to work the way I want.  So I've installed Office 2010 and gotten everything together.

Also, Rick has been gracious enough to invite me in to MakerGear HQ to review the recommended build sequence, get any last questions answered, and take some pictures.  Thank you, Rick!  And as my big end-of-March deadline at work passes, I should have a bit more time to work on the manual.

Ian, Sergey, others:  it sounds like you've all gotten a lot of recent experience with getting a new M2 up and running.  I'd be happy to make whatever styles, template, document formatting, etc., available to you (or anyone else who'd like to take on the task) for making an "Operating Manual".  I, for one, would be VERY grateful for anyone making an effort to pull together the learnings on running an M2 -- including Doug's links and all the other good stuff above -- into a RELIABLE method for a new owner to print stuff.  It would be WAY cool if someone (singular or plural) who has used both Slic3r / Pronterface and Simplify 3DCreator could do sections on each.  The best stuff on leveling (Rick had a recent comment about starting with the springs fairly compressed and loosening to level, for example).  Getting through calibration (recent issues with Slic3r?).  Downloading an STL from Thingiverse.  Settings for different materials.  Bed prep (painter's tape? kapton tape? hairspray? Windex?).  Sounds like a lot of short chapters -- an "Operation and Reference" manual perhaps?

Anyway, I've got my old Heathkit manuals out and I'm ready to type!

Dale

[mathisyo...@yahoo.com]

Thanks Dale. As I await my M2 I'm reading all I can and this will be a great resource in the future.

[Dale Reed]

Yo, Mathis,

Thanks.  I'm waiting for mine, too.  :-)   (hint to Rick and Karen!)

I went through my old boxes and files and only found the old manual for my oscilloscope, an early one.  So I went on eBay and bought a couple manuals from later products -- mid-late 1970s vintage, right before they went into computers with the Heath/Zenith series.

I received one of them today, and it's a GREAT example, with assembly "chapters" for individual circuit boards which each come with a bag of parts.  It has all the instructions about checking each bag of parts against the parts list, then putting the parts back in the bag until you get to that part of the assembly --- just the approach I want to use on the M2, based on seeing the "unpacking" video on YouTube.  (MANY thanks to the person who shot and posted that video!)

I also reviewed the sections on "How to Solder", "Theory of Operation", "Alignment" etc. (it's for a shortwave receiver.)

A good Heathkit manual should be mandatory reading for technical writing classes, and for all engineers for that matter.

The price printed on the cover of this manual is $2.00, and it's about 3/8" thick (half a centimeter), with several fold-out pages (11x17 and even wider paper).  I can't imagine producing one in print for that cost today!   I will try hard to remember that not everyone has access to a wide-format printer and keep to A4 / Letter size.  But a lot of people now have wide monitors, and Acrobat Reader and such can display pairs of pages side by side, so my thinking right now is to try to keep to a figure-on-the-left-page step-by-step-directions-on-the-right-page ("facing pages") format.  So a printed manual, if it were spiral bound or similar, would lie flat in a useful fashion.

All constructive suggestions welcome.

Thanks for your encouragement!

Dale

[Simplify3D]

Dale,

You might be interested to know that version 1.0.6 of the Creator software (released today!) comes with a new Quick Start Guide that explains pretty much every step you need to take on the software side to go from a digital model to a printed part.  I'm sure you you've got your hands full starting with the mechanical side of the M2 assembly, but it might be interesting to look at while you're waiting for your machine to arrive :)

Again, awesome that you're doing this and let me know if you need any help on the software side of things

[Paul Leonard]

Sweet, what are the big changes to this version? Are you going to announce it on the forum?

Paul

[Simplify3D]

The biggest upgrade was some substantial improvements to the underlying slicing engine as well as a few other key features that were requested by the community.  The software also now comes with a Quick Start Guide that walks you through the entire printing process, beginning to end.  Should be useful to answer a lot of the common questions we've been getting.

And the forum appears to be back to full speed now, so you can find the complete release information and changelog here: http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=63

Happy Friday!

[Dale Reed]

Sergey,

 

I could use some help.  You had figured out in your build how the SD card was to be wired.  I have a six-pin inline connector at one end of the "cable" (looks like six fine wires, no longer a ribbon-cable segment).  That connector has one wire that looks to be "marked" (I think...) and at the same end the edge of the connector has a "slot".  The other end of the cable is an 8-wire 4x2  @  0.100" centers connector, black, with a silver "dash" written on one side.  (Is that the side with pin 1?  And which pin on the SD Card PCB bottom connector is "pin 1"?)

 

Could you shoot me a reply describing EXACTLY how the cable is connected on both ends?  I see the mark for "pin 1" on the 4x2 connector on the Rambo PCB, so you can reference that.  For the SD card socket end of the connection, please reference by left-side or right-side of the assembled printer (Z-axis lead screw on the left).  I want to make sure I have it right for the manual.  I can do the photos for this -- just need a description.

 

Also, I'm curious what size screws you used for bed leveling.  IIRC (I'm not home right now) the PDF from MG shows M3x16, but I think those are too long.  When screwed in all the way so that the adjustment bottoms out on the nylon spacer, the screw sticks up enough above the spider to lift the HBP.  I replaced them with M3x14, which I like much better. When bottomed out, they stick up just above the spider but don't touch the bed.

 

And thanks for working out the Z-stop switch mount.

 

Some of my first few photos were a bit blurry (wrong lens setting, operator error), but I think they're still usable -- but I'm might need to steal (I mean "leverage") a couple of yours.

 

Could you send me by PM ( eladdeer  at  gmail ) a photo showing your routing of the cable harness and one showing detail of the wiring on the extruder hot end?  I'm having a bit of a problem neatly dressing the wiring, especially on the extruder.  The harness seems a bit "short" and is putting some tension on the thermistor and heater connectors, and the wiring "wants" to block the filament feed hole.

 

Also, with respect to the filament feed, this new printer seems to have done away with the old filament feed tube bracket and reel supprots with bearings.  There's a hole for the feed tube (I think) on the printed part that mounts behind the X-stop switch, which now sticks out further from the left-hand side of the printer.  But there doesn't seem to be (on EITHER end) a good place for the filament feed tube to "rest".  I expected a larger diameter hole for the feed tube to bottom out in, with a smaller hole continuing for the filament itself.  Or am I looking at the wrong place on the extruder?

 

Anyway, I've got about all the information for the manual -- just need to sit and start typing and pasting pictures!  Something to do while things are being printed!

 

Thanks for any help.

 

If anyone else has recently assembled an M2 (say, in the last few week) and has other thoughts or issues with kit assembly, please reply here!

 

Dale