Also, since you have a dual head extruder- it is imperative that you take steps BEFORE upgrading like writing down your toolhead offset and ensuring you follow all the procedure to reset to factor defaults and ensure you also manually validate the offsets are correct before attempting to print.
6.3.1 Step 1: Before you install Sailfish
Before installing Sailfish, power on your printer, connect it to your computer via USB, and then run MakerWare. Using MakerWare, write down the following machine onboard parameters:
- 1.
- The X, Y, and Z home offsets. These are also referred to as “home positions”.
- 2.
- If your printer has two extruders, write down the X and Y toolhead offsets.
That is the #1 user mistake. They read half the instructions, don't read the second page, and then wonder why they ram into the side of the printer.
Installing is easy, use the correct Rep-G version from thingiverse-latest version, choose the right printer- that goes easy.
What they fail is the proper next steps that firmware has firmware settings- and just flashing firmware does not install the settings without user intervention.
This is the number one misunderstood or skipped series of steps that makes or breaks your printer.
Again, the thing to understand is there are 2 memory types and location in the printer.
Flash is where the firmware is stored (the code that makes the printer a printer)
EEPROM is where the settings for that firmware and specific to that firmware are stored
Flashing or updating firmware does not also update the matching EEPROM settings for that firmware, it literally only writes to the flash memory. This is the part that requires user interaction and attention to detail. This is because the code of the firmware accesses and reads and writes to the EEPROM memory as a place to read and store settings of that firmware.
Resetting to factory defaults specifically does not fix or "auto correct" toolhead offset errors. That's why this is a 2 step manual action. Step 1 reset to factory defaults to at least set the proper settings for the now freshly loaded firmware. Then manually connect and using Rep-G validate the toolhead and homing offsets are the values from the old firmware manually entered and then saved.
Just trying to set you straight since you already asked for the wrong version of Rep-g as an opener. Figured a little more direction pointing might be the nudge to help prevent 3 day disaster case.