Flite test plane plans

[Rob R]

I found a PDF of a plane I'd like to build from flite test, but can't figure out the process going from a PDF to a dxf.

Anyone know a tool chain that doesn't take illustrator?

[Milton Williams]

You can do that in inkscape pretty dang easily (plus it is free).  There are a couple of designs in Blake's folder that have been cut before that are probably from the same place.  

On Dec 29, 2016 7:28 PM, "Rob R" <zero...@gmail.com> wrote:

I found a PDF of a plane I'd like to build from flite test, but can't figure out the process going from a PDF to a dxf.

Anyone know a tool chain that doesn't take illustrator?

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[Rob R]

I can only get the first page of the pdf

[Jess Nut]

Open Chrome. Drag PDF into Chrome to open it. Click on Print. For the Destination choose Print PDF. Print each page as separate PDFs. Convert in Inkscape.

There may be an easier way that someone else knows.

[Smith H.]

If I can remember my process I will post it.  I have the Storch and the Tiny Trainer already in LaserCut format.  Which plane is it?  I do have grandiose plans to convert them ALL at some point.  Then we can just have a folder out on the shared drive where anyone can cut any plane at any time.

Smith H.

[Rob R]

The triplane. Mini something DR1

[Rob R]

Thanks for the print to PDF tip! Any other tips for prepping the file for cutting? Take out text, images, extra marks?

Do you guys re layout the parts to fit in less space?

[Jess Nut]

If you want to do that level of editing then PDF is not the right format. PDF is meant for finished documents. If you want to edit PDFs then you'll need to get a PDF editor. However beware, most of the free versions either don't work, don't work well, or load you computer with malware... usually all of the above. So if this is something you are going to be doing a lot, shell out for Adobe Pro or something similar.

On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 1:39 PM, Rob R <zero...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks for the print to PDF tip! Any other tips for prepping the file for cutting? Take out text, images, extra marks?

Do you guys re layout the parts to fit in less space?

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Jess
"When I have to choose between two evils, I always pick the one I've never tried before."

[Rob R]

Ive got the vectors in inkscape. Was looking at making them easier to cut.

On Monday, January 2, 2017 at 1:57:53 PM UTC-7, Jess Nut wrote:

If you want to do that level of editing then PDF is not the right format. PDF is meant for finished documents. If you want to edit PDFs then you'll need to get a PDF editor. However beware, most of the free versions either don't work, don't work well, or load you computer with malware... usually all of the above. So if this is something you are going to be doing a lot, shell out for Adobe Pro or something similar.

On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 1:39 PM, Rob R <zero...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks for the print to PDF tip! Any other tips for prepping the file for cutting? Take out text, images, extra marks?

Do you guys re layout the parts to fit in less space?

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[Smith Hayward]

Yes I usually move everything around to limit waste. Still trying to find the time to go over my process for you. How are you coming along otherwise?

You can also download the trial version of LaserCut 5.3 and while it doesn't "let" you save there's a bug that prompts you to save when you close your document. LMAO! Search for laserCut you'll find it under something like "Just Add Sharks" software. 

- Smith H.

[Rob R]

Working out if its worth it to mark/convert the dots and dashes or just change everything to cut/score and apply remove icons where needed.

[Rob R]

Also, where do you usually get your foam board?

[Smith Hayward]

I end up with 4 layers in LaserCut. You can try to color them in the CAD/Inkscape or just do it in LC before cutting. My layers are inside cuts, outside cuts, score cuts, notes/instructions.

Inside and Outside cuts get same power; just separate so outside cuts go last. You will need to experiment with power/speed because it's been a while since I cut my plane and I believe that the laser isn't performing as well as it was.

I get my foam board at Dollar Tree. It's best to get the truest sheets possible. I'll probably start buying full 25-sheet boxes the next time I run out so they don't get a chance to warp on the store shelf. I think Walmart has some $0.88 foamboard plus there is the more expensive $2-3 Elmers foam core but if you need to peel the paper at all it's very difficult (the Dollar Tree FB peels easily).


- Smith

> On Jan 3, 2017, at 1:53 PM, Rob R <zero...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Also, where do you usually get your foam board?
>

[Eric Ose]

Readi-board is the only brand approved for our laser cutter.

We need a complete safety data sheet to confirm something won't be a problem when laser cutting. The last time I talked to Austin we didn't have data other than for the other brands. You do not have permission to cut other brands of foam board unless Austin gives the OK.

Eric Ose
azrobotambassador.com

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[Smith Hayward]

The Dollar Tree foam board is the Adams Readi-board.

Good to know - it's also all I've tried to use so far.

Smith H.