bolt puller from Arizona

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Luke S

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Nov 8, 2013, 10:45:40 AM11/8/13
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has anyone experimented with a tool like this?

Looks like it would damage the hanger...

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Luke
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Matt Twyman

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Nov 8, 2013, 12:29:39 PM11/8/13
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seen it but haven't tried using one.  would explode limestone and leave a crater several inches in diameter.  only good for granite.  
Loren, are you on this thead?  Never got a chance to finalize your design.  Uses an impact wrench to pull out 5-pc bolts in seconds and w/o destroying limestone.  awesome.
matt


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Joel Schopp

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Nov 8, 2013, 1:13:38 PM11/8/13
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I think that bolt puller would only be good on button heads.  The forces on an old Rawl (Powers) 5 piece would destroy the rock way too badly.

Matt Twyman

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Nov 8, 2013, 2:21:37 PM11/8/13
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ya, it's designed for stud bolts (i.e. one-way installations).  Typically used on 1/4 death bolts.  simple and works.

Matt M

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Nov 9, 2013, 3:38:37 PM11/9/13
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The challenge with that type of system is the pulling force isn't inline with the bolt shaft.  Pulling on the hanger adds torque to the equation and you'll often snap off a shitty 1/4"er from what I've read.  On Supertopo, the most active guys pulling bolt use the tuning forks to get out ancient bolts because they're less likely to snap them off.

Doesn't Bill Gooch have a 5-piece puller he rigged up for E-Rock replacement work?  I thought he posted some TRs and pictures of it online.

Surprisingly, 5/16th buttonheads in granite can be pretty damn strong.  I've replaced one or two and they were, by far, the hardest things to pull of the limited bolts I've replaced.  1/4in are scary (esp split shafts) but a "good looking" 5/16th might not be bad.  Still better to upgrade to 3/8in at some point though.  Soft rock and I'd be leery.

Yanking 3/8in wedges in hard rock (as people pointed out above, soft rock will just blow out the placement and ruin it) is usually futile.  You MIGHT get the thing out but most people report the wedge snapping off inside the hole right above the cone.  Core drilling or chopping/patching are your best options.  This is why, with wedges, they MUST be Stainless.

Matt M

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Nov 9, 2013, 4:57:53 PM11/9/13
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Have people seen this access fund clip on pulling bolts?  I'm most curious about the hydraulic punch driver.  that looks like the ticket to pulling things.  The core drilling has its challenges from what I understand but I think most get away with a less complicated cooling setup than you see in the video.  

Big for me is choosing the right bolt for the intended use.  What's the work load of the bolt?  What type of weather and corrosion do you expect?  Useable lifetime?  Likelihood there will be people around or willing to put work into replacing worn hardware?  Rock Type? Ease of accessibility? yada yada.  Al that plays a roll in proper replacement.  

Joel Schopp

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Nov 11, 2013, 11:50:24 AM11/11/13
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Core drilling is awesome, but man those bits are expensive.  Still, it may be worth us investing in such a setup.

Vinny

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Nov 11, 2013, 11:54:50 AM11/11/13
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Loren G's bolt ripper is pretty sweet!  Probably the most efficient way to rip out old Rawls i've seen. 

This is a cool video of the hydraulic punch in Eldo pulling studs:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRA9aFefsxY&feature=player_embedded

This is a terrible option for centex area limestone but a cool video all the same.  :) 

Cheers to forward thinking about anchors on here.  Legacy bolt is coming sooner than later!


Matthew Markell

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Nov 11, 2013, 12:14:14 PM11/11/13
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I believe the one Jim Titt of Bolt Products sells in Europe and the one that gets the nod here as well is from the below company.  Much longer life than most standard core bits from what I understand.  The 9/16th OD one would be perfect for 3/8in bolts.  Just rough up the hole so the glue bonds well and a Wave Bolt will be perfect.  I know the older Waves were REALLY tight in 1/2in hard limestone holes.  I liked the 9/16th fit a lot more.  Not sure if the newer CLimb Tech Produced ones had their fit changed at all...




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Vinny

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Nov 11, 2013, 12:19:46 PM11/11/13
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The new Wavebolts fit like a glove Matt, consistently i might add.  Theyre doing well, and we are getting great feedback.

Joel Schopp

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Nov 11, 2013, 12:33:09 PM11/11/13
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The ukam core bits were the ones demonstrated at the Access Fund Bolt conference.  A cheap garden sprayer stuck through the depth gage holder of a cordless hammer drill provided cooling.  Seemed to work quite well.  Might be worth picking up a few for CTM.


On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 11:14 AM, Matthew Markell <mat...@mac.com> wrote:

Matthew Markell

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Nov 11, 2013, 5:15:59 PM11/11/13
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-I think I saw that simple cooling setup on a video you posted from the NRG Joel?  Can't find the link at the moment.

-Vinny, what about the bolt replacement video was terrible?  Didn't catch anything at first glance that looked iffy?  The 3/8in SS 5 Pieces?

-Good to gear the new CT Waves are a bit smaller in the hole.  I haven't run through the old ones yet so I still use a 9/16th bit for most of them.  On good limestone a 1/2in hole felt like I was driving in a piton!

-Haven't seen that many rusty studs around here though so using a punch driver might not me that needed.

I think this is what they're using though:

Matt Twyman

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Nov 12, 2013, 9:15:57 AM11/12/13
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I cant imagine a practical use for the Eldo setup in texas.  We do need to produce Loren's setup though.  I need details.

The cores that Dave Cardosa whipped up work really well in soft limestone (i.e. Sex Cave / Canyon-esque).  Need to give the latest models a try this season.

Matt

Vinny

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Nov 12, 2013, 9:49:50 AM11/12/13
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I'll donate the hardware if someone gets Jade up to snuff again!

Lorens setup is the bees knees for around here i'd agree. 

Also, for all you bolters on this list, DMM is coming out with industrial bags, one of which is a cool tool bag for rope access tech, ideal for a bolting bag IMO, if youre intersted i'll see what i can do to get a half dozen for a good price.  Big haul style main comparment than cinches down, plus to gear loops, bomber.

http://dmmprofessional.com/products/tool-bags-2013/

The smaller one is really nice, had me drooling.

Gmail

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Nov 12, 2013, 10:51:17 AM11/12/13
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I'd use one of the bags. Look cool. I'm down to work on Jade. I have cardosas new cores and that would be a great test climb. Lots of work over there on House and Insect. Especially those first few bolts. I'd wanna use Waves Vinnie. 

Adam Mitchell
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In...@Rock-About.com
512-415-0804

    

Matt M

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Nov 12, 2013, 10:59:40 AM11/12/13
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Put me down for one as well Vinny.  Looks great and love DMM stuff.  My old A5 brand bag is feeling vintage and I don't want to kill the thing!  Anyone else remember the A5 Catalog or "Ricky the Rock Rat" from BITD?

Probably not needed but if the "Whipper" bolt on Jade could use something really beefy, I have a 5/8in/16mm Titt Glue In to add to Jade if needed.  

Matt

karl v

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Nov 12, 2013, 11:04:39 AM11/12/13
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Vinny,  I'd like one of those too.

Adam,  I'll be your partner in the effort.

Karl

Gmail

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Nov 12, 2013, 11:08:40 AM11/12/13
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CT makes a 5/8 wave. 

Matt M

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Nov 12, 2013, 11:19:30 AM11/12/13
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Ah - Great.  Good to know.  Wasn't sure CT brought the 5/8in size over when they took up production from the Hoosier Heights crew.  Was wondering what I would use when I ran out of 16mm ones.  Thanks Adam

Vinny

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Nov 12, 2013, 11:20:10 AM11/12/13
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Nah, only 1/2" these days.  Thanks for the volunteers yall, let me know when a good time to hand them off would be and i'll come to you.  I have a Hilti epoxy gun i would be happy to loan out as well.  Thanks for the offer Matt M, that bolt would be nice for that crux and for anchors on popular top roped routes.  Jims bolts are mighty fine.

The one concern i have with glue ins is that, in crux bolts people MAY think that its ok to rap or lower off them if they get need to retreat, which eventually eats away at the bar stock.  So, as we transition to more epoxy bolts, its important to educate people not to do this.

I'll get the bags in ASAP, you guys have a size preference?  I'll get both sizes.  But let me know.

-V

Matthew Markell

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Nov 12, 2013, 11:32:20 AM11/12/13
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Vin, I'll take one of the DMM 4l (small) ones.  Thanks!  

Darn, no 5/8th.  They are kind of a specialty piece so I understand.  I'll get a count of how many 16s I have left.  Jim's slammed in Europe so it might be a while before I can get more 16mm.  I do have two of Jim's single point lower offs in 16mm with the BEEFY 12mm rap rings.  He sent them for me to check out.  Might be a PITA to clip and generally weird people out though.  An option though.  Certainly would last.

8mmbolt12mmring.gif

Gmail

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Nov 12, 2013, 12:10:08 PM11/12/13
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My bad Matt. They were stocking the 5/8. 

On Nov 12, 2013, at 10:20 AM, Vinny <chris.m...@gmail.com> wrote:

karl v

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Nov 12, 2013, 12:59:51 PM11/12/13
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Vinny, put me down for a 4 liter DMM toolbag. Thanks for ordering and for donating hardware for a classic route.

Karl V

On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 11:10 AM, Gmail <mitchel...@gmail.com> wrote:
My bad Matt. They were stocking the 5/8. 

Vinny

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Dec 20, 2013, 11:09:00 AM12/20/13
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Bolt bags are in, theyre so nice!
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