Prusa Slice settings for multimaterial supports PLA/PETG

[Jody Harris]

[Kurt, I highjacked you post into a new thread]

Thanks for posting this information. It's good to see solutions as we move into a new era of printers and oportunities.

On Sunday, April 12th, 2026 at 9:11 PM, Kurt A 3d <kur...@gmail.com> wrote:

Kurt-1

I have successfully used PETG as just INTERFACE with PLA as model, supports, and wipe tower structure. To do this 1) set the PETG as SOLUBLE in the filaments profile (this keeps it from being used in the wipe tower structure) 2) also in the filaments profile set fillaments->advanced->MaxVolumetricSpeed to like 4 (yeah real slow) 3) set the fillament for the INTERFACE to being the PETG extruder 4) set your number of interface layers to 5

This will only work if the supports connect to the model in a relatively flat way - if the model is like a sphere then you will have too many too small layers of PETG trying to sit on top of the PLA

5) cross your fingers

You can also swap everything I just said for PLA <-> PETG

Kurt-A

Think carefully

On Sunday, April 12th, 2026 at 9:11 PM, Kurt A 3d <kur...@gmail.com> wrote:

Kurt-1

I have successfully used PETG as just INTERFACE with PLA as model, supports, and wipe tower structure. To do this 1) set the PETG as SOLUBLE in the filaments profile (this keeps it from being used in the wipe tower structure) 2) also in the filaments profile set fillaments->advanced->MaxVolumetricSpeed to like 4 (yeah real slow) 3) set the fillament for the INTERFACE to being the PETG extruder 4) set your number of interface layers to 5

This will only work if the supports connect to the model in a relatively flat way - if the model is like a sphere then you will have too many too small layers of PETG trying to sit on top of the PLA

5) cross your fingers

You can also swap everything I just said for PLA <-> PETG

Kurt-A

On Sunday, April 12, 2026 at 9:24:55 AM UTC-4 Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!! wrote:

K-A,

I heard a while back that supposedly a lot of guys were putting Talc on their Junk - and then getting cancer down there. I should peek at the link you posted - but, maybe later...

Yes, PCTG is more expensive. And, you CAN get American made via 3D Fuel. And, in theory - if you're worried about costs - then go easy on the PCTG. For instance, I know folks have done Full Contact Support by making ONLY the Top layers of the supports to be the opposite material. I've seen it posted on Reddit. I had wondered if that would even WORK - since PLA & PETG purposely don't really Stick together - THUS why FCS works for that combo!

In my experiments at Essentium - I had CREATE Success in my initial tests w/PCTG & PLA - and they WOULD Indeed stick JUST Enough - that you have to apply a little effort to pull them apart - but, NOT Much effort - and you get a PERFECT Interface! Just sayin'...

-K

On Sunday, April 12, 2026 at 12:09:16 AM UTC-4 Kurt A 3d wrote:

K

I will tell you that the quality of the PETG matters a lot. I have not liked Printed Solid's PETG (their PLA is fine). Polar had some interesting PETG that they no longer make that worked with a bed temp that is the same as PLA's (I still have 3 spools of it ) and it makes for great supports_. Lately I have been having good results with Prusament PETG..

My problem with PCTG is the cost. I prefer US or EU filaments since I mostly make toys. Prusament is pricey, most of my Prusament I picked up during their free shipping periods and this past November they were discounting their older spool design. Printed Solid just significantly increased prices which is why I am trying the Voxel. <$17/kg for a claimed to be made in the US filament is good, though the + and the HS worry me, because it implies additives that the SDS and MDS don't specify. I understand from Mitch at Polar that lots of companies add TALC to their PLA. I have concerns about that (. https://www.lawsuit-information-center.com/2-billion-verdict-in-missouri-motivates-jj-to-settle-talcum-powder-lawsuits.html ) .

Kurt-A

On Saturday, April 11, 2026 at 10:33:23 AM UTC-4 Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!! wrote:

Yeah - your original typos were kinda bad. But, your explanation of what the first wording should have been - I found that interesting. Were you using Talk to Text???

I recently started using Talk to Text for doing emails at work. So far I only did it 2 times - but, it REALLY Worked Well!!! FYI - it's MS Outlook - and it's built into Outlook. That's obviously NOT an option here in the Google Group webpage access to postings. I wish it was!

And - "HS" is supposed to mean High-Speed. Since you did ask. So, in theory (I've never proven it's Effective - not sure if others have) - the formulation is such that you should be able to print faster with that filament. I think this came into existence because faster machines like the Bambu - and those rigged up with Klipper are starting to go Faster - and co's realized they needed to take that into affect for their filaments - to stay competitive. OR - maybe it's a purely Marketing Scam! I don't know...

As for the "+", generally speaking - that means the filament is supposed to be Stronger! But, I've said this BEFORE - if you want a Stronger PETG - do NOT go getting PETG+, Rather - get PCTG!

Just sayin'...

And, still to this day - I don't think a SINGLE Humanoid on this forum has properly tried using PCTG with PLA for Full-Contact-Support. Which is TOO BAD!

OF course, once I get my New Bad-Boy machine, which should Kick Buttocks - I CAN Then Finally show people that PCTG w/PLA is Superior to using PETG!

Just sayin'...

-K

On Friday, April 10, 2026 at 9:14:41 PM UTC-4 Kurt A 3d wrote:

First of all, spelling correct got me "Ben if it of the doubt" should have read "Benefit of the doubt". Yeah could be Polar, or even more likely Push plastic (that's resold by Slant 3d for example). Mitch of Polar says lots of folks have fillmanet produced by other people. He stocks spools and labels for various resellers. I have never bought any Push plastic, what I dont like from watching their videos is they manufacture onto large spools then respell down later. I have concerns that this can result in the fillament not aging well (Zach Freedman says that one reason spools "explode" is that when you change the tension on an older spool its "shape memory" is for a different wind.

OK - here's the update: I complained to them with photos etc. They offered me a store credit for $16.99 which was way too little considering. I mean sure the gray being a charcoal and not a light gray, that's in the eye of the beholder, but the shipping me a spool of the wrong color and SHORTING me on the desiccant weight is more than a one spool error. Especially considering how if I use the credit I would still either have to pay for shipping OR buy a lot more. So I said that wasn't good enough and they upped the offer to $20. Still not really that good but ok...

SO I had to order $75 to get free shipping .... so I ordered 6 more spools of a fillament I am not sure of.

I guess I will let you all know what happens when I go to print with it.

Mostly PLA+HS and some PETG+HS (whatever on earth + and HS mean - I love how Mitch of Polar fillament says he was thinking of making some PLA- )

Kurt-A

On Monday, April 6, 2026 at 6:19:06 PM UTC-4 Kurt Gluck wrote:

Ben if it of the doubt - they could always be reselling someone like Polar’s fillament - but, 3 issues in a $100 order, is amazing. I havent weighed the spools, but considering they shorted me on the desiccant I now have zero trust.

Kurt-A

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 6, 2026, at 6:14 PM, Alan B <alan....@gmail.com> wrote:



I had some issues with Voxel with very long delivery after promises of in-stock turned out to be false, and have crossed them off my supplier list. They also claimed to be made in USA but according to AI research all their US locations are storage, not manufacturing. So there is a question about their transparency.

On Mon, Apr 6, 2026 at 3:10 PM Kurt A 3d <kur...@gmail.com> wrote:

<IMG_6718.jpeg>

FYI

Just received my first order from Voxel.

My primary fillament suppliers are; Prusa ($$), Printed Solid (PLA good, PETG ehh and dont like new prices), Polar (PLA good), and Polymaker (TPU).

While I did not have high expectations for the color aesthetics, the number of issues with this order way worse than I expected. I have emailed their support and I will let you know how it comes out.

1) Instead of “Lavender Purple” and “Dark Purple” they sent me 2 spools of “Lavender Purple”

2) Their 1 pound of Silica Beads weigh INCLUDING packaging 15.3 oz

3) Their “Grey” which shows as a light grey instead is almost a black

Kurt-A

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[Lynette Miles]

This is really helpful, Jody and Kurt!  I would've missed the suggestions if not for the hijack :D

I'm going to have to try this with the U1 and snapmaker orca. I've been looking for good tutorials on how to do full contact supports using PETG/PLA and I'm not having a ton of luck finding stuff that's explained very well. It makes my tech writer soul sad. I had multiple failures while experimenting because I have no real idea how to really use multiple materials. 

Literally was thinking this morning of emailing the show and asking if they've considered doing a how-to segment that really dives into how to do this well. I think it'd be a big boon with the bunch of toolchangers that are coming into the market soon! 

- Lynette

[LukeH]

With Snorca (Snapmaker Orca), you can do similar, just by setting the top interface distance to zero, the interface spacing to zero, and just designating a material for the prime tower walls. 

That way, the interface material still primes inside the prime tower, but the walls of the tower are always made of the same material as the model, so it won’t fail with a weird layer.

I also always set supports from the bed only, so that I’m not trying to print a support interface with low/no adhesion on top of the model.

The best part about just printing support interfaces in the different material is that you only need to set the bed temperature to be optimised for the model material (since that is what the main part of the supports is printed in), not some weird compromise to get both materials to stick. Also, if it is PLA with PETG (or PCTG, I guess Kurt) supports, the print will finish sooner if most of the supports are printed in PLA (since PLA prints much faster than PETG).

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Lynette - do you ALREADY have the SnapMaker U1?

I'm curious - since mine is supposed to be Delivered TOMORROW!!!!!!!

I'm SO STOKED to get it and start doing some VERY WILD THINGS with it!

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Jody - it's really NOT Clear! 

Do you Hi-Jack from Me or the Doppelgänger???

If it's from him - I DO NOT Care!

If it's from ME - HOW DARE YOU!?"!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

Ha ha ha...

Great New Thread indeed Momma! Most Peculiar!

-K
P.S. I really WONDER who will get that Last Reference - and, no - I Stole that Line...

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

YO Luke - VERY Interesting Info - I had NO IDEA that PLA prints Faster than PETG!!!!

Wonder how PCTG does against the Speed of PLA!?!?!?

-K

[Lynette Miles]

Yes, I got my U1 last week! =)  Happy early birthday to me! My husband's been after me to get another printer for a year but i was waiting for something that was a toolchanger *and* a core XY - Andy & Whitney have raised my standards ;)

Couple examples: 

I was able to print the Hail Mary using PVA for supports with eSun Bronze silk - these are before and after pics. It wasn't too hard to figure out how to set the Snorca to do what I needed.

Thanks to the podcast, I knew PVA was a thing that existed! :D 

And then there's a Viperborn archer front and back from Fat Dragon Games. I think I printed it at the .12 detail profile using the default settings with a .4 nozzle and I'm *really* impressed with the detail. 

- Lynette

[Luke Hartfiel]

Kurt,

It is all to do with viscosity of the molten plastic, and how fast you can force it out of the nozzle. Standard PETG prints at about half the speed of standard PLA, although there are high flow versions from various manufacturers that will change that.

On 14 Apr 2026, at 8:56 am, Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!! <vr...@optonline.net> wrote:

YO Luke - VERY Interesting Info - I had NO IDEA that PLA prints Faster than PETG!!!!

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[Kurt A 3d]

Foreground are second and third quality (15) unicorns.   Facing the first quality (25)  ones.   Took me a while to dial these in.  Printed in PLA with PETG supports.   The  first quality ones were printed with organic supports - NO WIPE TOWER even.  

I started to print them in sets of 4 at a time, This was 17.5 hours per set which worked well with sleeping and life :-).  

The 15 ones with varying quality were caused by issues like the bottom of the tail being too thin, the grid supports maring the model etc.   Also I found that a 0.2mm layer hight worked better for the supports even though the top isn't quite  as nice as the 0.1mm layer height. 

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/9hccdydlohqk9tvsoy87i/unicorn2026-vCx4.3mf?rlkey=ib8iooy997o7822uji6zpasba&st=9df3650r&dl=0

you can look at my settings in the 3mf file (prusaslicer)  that is on dropbox.

Kurt-A

[Kurt A 3d]

[Kurt A 3d]

This 3mf file showcases a print useing PETG with PETG supports but with PLA for the support interface.

The reason to do this is that the PLA gives you good full contact easy removal but the PETG for the support and the model means that the bed temp can be set for PETG with no issues.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ubngyvn6zg24y362rxb3i/raspberrypiwiderrack.3mf?rlkey=tpmg28gg1fgeuiz86f2oj7j4i&st=t2kgmik0&dl=0

[Kurt A 3d]

Sorry should have said its for PRUSASLICER and a prusaxl, but the concepts can be transferred to other printers.

I use a very large "brim" (actually called expansion) for my organic supports.   Since the hexagon cutouts have the tops pointy I can avoid supports for them.   The supports are for oval cutouts.  This is for a case to mount a raspberry pi 5 off of the outside of the side of a rack. 

Kurt-A

[Bryan Eckert]

More important than bed temp, by just using a different material for the interface layer only - you avoid lengthy time consuming swaps every single layer.

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[3D Printing Tips and Tricks]

That's a good point... 

However IME the interface layer does not stick well to the base support and it ruins everything. Besides a tool change on the XL is pretty fast. In the end I'd rather give it more time with tool changes for the entire support structure than have it fail.

[3D Printing Tips and Tricks]

and I forgot to mention... Typically I use end of spools or filament that's of low value for the supports... while the objects material is typically higher value and I'd rather not use it unnecessarily.

[Jody Harris]

I'm sure many remember this layer separation hack from six (6!) years ago.

https://hackaday.com/2020/05/27/improving-3d-printed-supports-with-a-marker/

I can't help but think that with the advent of readily available, high quality, consumer-priced tool changers, there is a way to implement what I'm calling "interface poisoning" to achieve this with the precision of a nozzle. It might be a modified (poisoned) filament that bonds well to the support structure while hot, but moderately​ rejects the the following layer after it's cools.

I'm confident that someone is working on this.

-j

Think carefully

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[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

You took the words right out of my mouth Bryan - EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And - Yippee - SOON I can try doing EXACTLY THAT!

-K

[Kurt The 3D Printer GUY!!]

Jody - what you speak about - is what I want to PROVE to the WORLD - that PCTG is Potentially SUPERIOR to PETG when it comes to The CULT of Full Contact Support!!!

But, it may take just a LITTLE While until I get there...

And - once I start doing it - and showing my tests here - if I can PROVE the difference - I think it will be VERY Exciting - since, as Andy mentioned - the potential on FAILURE - with only a Different material for the Support Interface layer - is STILL a Potential Problem!!!

-K