raw water intake valve teflon tape vs Never seize

[Charles Bachmann]

I am  instlling a new  raw  intake valve on mY atomic 4 , shoukd I  use teflon tape , never seize  or  nothing  when  installing new ball valve on the through hull  fitting 

[Dan Pfeiffer]

I would install a proper seacock that has a flange thru-bolted to the hull...  And then use teflon tape on the threaded fittings.

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/seacock_install.htm

Dan Pfeiffer

On 2025-03-26 6:45 pm, Charles Bachmann wrote:

I am  instlling a new  raw  intake valve on mY atomic 4 , shoukd I  use teflon tape , never seize  or  nothing  when  installing new ball valve on the through hull  fitting 

 

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[Jim Keszenheimer]

I concur with Dan. Teflon is the industry standard for ensuring that a fitting gets good mating to its part. Technically Teflon tape does not seal the threads but rather facilitates mating by lubricating the thread and somewhat filling the thread gap. (We all hope it helps seals as well).

Never seez is meant for bolts you need to remove again, so it helps prevent bolts from chemically seizing in a thread. Two different expected outcomes, though they may be related. 

Just my two cents.

On Mar 26, 2025, at 8:43 PM, Dan Pfeiffer <d...@pfeiffer.net> wrote:



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[David Walker]

I’ve used teflon tape for almost all gas and liquid threaded joints for years in industrial labs and at home. But I’ve noticed lately that plumbing codes have moved away from tape to pipe sealing compound(pipe dope).  A quick internet search indicates sealing compound is better for critical joints and is stronger although more difficult to disassemble.  Not sure which I would use in this case. Any comments?

Dave Walker

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[Ed Criscuolo]

On 3/26/25 8:43 PM, Dan Pfeiffer wrote:
> I would install a proper seacock that has a flange thru-bolted to the
> hull...  And then use teflon tape on the threaded fittings.
>
> http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/seacock_install.htm

> <http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/seacock_install.htm>
>
> Dan Pfeiffer

I strongly agree with Dan. Thru-hulls have straight pipe threads (NPS),
while ball valves, and other plumbing, have tapered pipe threads (NPT).
Mixing the two is a no no! The tapered ball valve threads will reach
a jam point on the thru-hull with only one or two threads fully engaged,
making for a very weak connection.

Proper seacocks have straight threads on the bottom so they can fully
engage the thru-hull, and tapered threads on the top for the plumbing
bits.


@(^.^)@ Ed

[Dave Cole]

I think he already has the Pearson through hull in place and wants to replace just the valve. 
My 10M is in fresh water and the original through hull for the engine pickup line is bronze with a grate of holes to prevent pickup up debris in the water.  I had a "standard" bronze gate valve on the thru hull when I bought the boat and it was jamming after years of use.  I obtained a high end bronze ball valve with NPT threads and installed it using pipe dope.  No issues.  There was plenty of thread engagement.  In fact the end of the thru hull maybe tapered.  I just dont remember.  It fit very well.

A lot of fittings are being made in China.  Some do not have perfect threads and even thick gas line thread tape wont make them seal.
Thread dope, is more forgiving. 
If you want to use tape, the Blue Monster is some of the best.  Oatey and Blue Monster also make good pipe dope.  The monster on the label is corny, but a piping crew running thousands of feet of gas and airlines in a plant tipped me off to it. 

Dave
10M #26

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[Charles Bachmann]

thanks al for the  great information