> From what I read about the Halogen cycle, high-temperature is a key part of the cycle where tungsten dissociates from the halogen, in this case on the filament. Apparently the halogen present in the bulb reacts with the tungsten that essentially condenses on the inner surface of the bulb, thereby keeping the bulb's inner surface clean.
I think the halogen reacts with the tungsten before it gets to the inner surface of the bulb. Then, when it gets near to the hot filament, it dissociates, releasing the tungsten back near the filament where it is likely enough to redeposit there.
> Before I gave-up, I was first thinking of using nichrome for my cathodes, because I believe it would oxidize much less than other readily-available metals during the high-temperatures encountered with glasswork.
Interesting idea. Chromium wouldn't oxidize much, but isn't mechanically stable by itself. Chrome-plated nickel would be amusing, but:
> I was concerned about it's reflectivity;
Bingo. Mirror electrodes might be distracting. Or they might be cool.
> if you look carefully at 5092 or 6091 tubes (yes, I'm a Burroughs junkie...) you will see some back-reflection from un-energized numerals. I wanted to make really big tubes, and if they are made with overly-reflective metals, the appearance will suffer. And of course I need to chemically etch the cathodes; I dont think nichrome is as easily dissolved as, say, copper, so that puts restrictions on the etchant and the masking material used.
Also, you increase the surface area (possibly greatly), increasing issues with processing and outgassing. It might also increase sputtering, I'm unsure about that.
> Then I was concerned about how well glass would form a durable seal around nichrome, and also the differing thermal-expansion coefficients. Kovar is a better material from what I've read. Ugghh...now I have to spot-weld my electrodes to the pins.
Nearly all nixies (and vacuum tubes) are made this way. Many tubes have three-section welded leads, with different thicknesses and alloys for the external pin, the lead seal, and the internal lead. These, in turn, get spot-welded to the actual tube elements. So each lead ends up being four different pieces of metal, with three welds.
> Even if I got all that figured-out, I still need to remove the impurities. With neon-sign tubes, this done during bombarding; I can only imagine what that would do to a nixie tube…..
Eddy current ("induction") heating and oven processing, basically. One of our members makes a commercial unit, also available as a kit, partial kit, and open sourced:
http://fluxeon.com
- John