Flashforge Creator Pro PETG settings in Simplify 3D

[Chris Jones]

I successfully print in PLA with no issues. When I try to print PETG I feel like I'm guessing on all the settings.

Is there a chart that has material type/brand and Simplify 3D settings anywhere? Seems like out of the box my Flashforge Creator Pro and Simplify 3D are made for PLA. Don't see the option to just select prebuilt setting for other material.

Maybe we can build this chart right here if it does not exist.

[vr...@optonline.net]

Chris, just as a starting point, did you go to the website for the filament brand Of PETG that you have???

That is the general starting point, to see what the manufacturer gives you as parameters for printing, this includes the temperature of the nozzle, the temperature of the bed they give you sometimes, even suggestions on speed, as well as what type of bed material to use. Not all manufacturers are really good about this, but you should at least take it whatever they give you as a starting point. If you have already done that, just let us know!

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[TobyCWood]

Hotend temp is usually 230-235c. Keep in mind the ffcp uses a teflon liner close or inside the meltzone and it usually has 230c as the max. As such you can expect to need to replace the liner way faster if you go that hot for long.
50-60c for the bed. Downward cooling fan should be low... around 30%. But iirc the ffcp can only do 100% or 0. So it would depend on the object and toolpath size. Small areas I'd put the fan on, large I'd leave it off.
Leave retraction settings the same as PLA as a starting point. Extrusion settings same as PLA as a starting point.

[Chris Jones]

Thanks, I hear you always talk about the Teflon liners being an issue because of heat. I'll also take VRFX advice and try the vendor website. Might look at trying to modify the fan with a manual variable speed fan that I can control with knob.

Thanks again

[vr...@optonline.net]

Hey there Chris, and my name is Kurt actually. By the way, another reason not to go really too hot with a teflon-coated nozzle, is because the heat can actually cause poisonous off-gassing from the nozzle. FYI...

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[John Mueller]

I run the MicroSwiss all metal upgrade on my FlashForge machines. I was tired of the fast failure of the stock lined nozzle. I have put 10k hrs on one microswiss alone.

You can use the stock Dreamer profiles that are in Simplify3D to get a baseline for setting up your Creator profiles. I don't think the starting and ending gcode is correct, the Dreamer uses a different motherboard.

I did do a Titan Aero mod and the printing improvement was actually pretty good.

I run three Dreamer machines on PETG almost 24/7, happy to help.

[Rich Webb]

PETG doesn't like to see over extrusion; tends to be stringy and will pick up little globs that later cook off the nozzle and fall onto the print. A little under extrusion is better than any over extrusion. I reduce my extrusion multiplier by 0.1 from a normal 0.94 to 0.93.

Do not squish the first layer, for the reasons above. Set first layer height & width to 100% and, to help it stick without the "squish," print slow. I go with 25% for the first layer.

It can be droopy and may need an extra layer or two on top to prevent it visibly sagging into the infill.

Different formulations and colors can print very differently. I have some Amazon Basics gray PETG (discontinued ☹) that prints like a dream, some blue from MakerGeeks that's okay, and some black from eSun that's a total nightmare.

Usually print at 240/90 and 60mm/sec.

Edit to fix the MakerGeeks color. That spool also had a lot of moisture and needed a cycle through the dehydrator before it would print without snap crackle pop.

[Chris Jones]

John, Did you change your downward fan out also so it was adjustable? Is this the part you replaced ( https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-Hotend-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01CW37YZG/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Micro+Swiss+flashforge&qid=1583085058&s=industrial&sr=1-10 )

After researching;

I think there a 2 upgrades I'll plan on, the Microswiss and a glass build plate to help with my printing. Glad I never try to justify the cost of my prints hahaha. The wife already thinks I'm insane when I converted our food dehydrator to a plastic spool drier :)

[John Mueller]

That is the correct link yes. I do run the nice fat borosilicate beds, at the time I bought them directly from FlashForge though. This was 3+ yrs ago when it was easier to find stuff online that would break on the first print. LOL

Food dehydrators are overrated for fruit, but amazing for filament!

[TobyCWood]

Do NOT buy PETG from Filaments.CA. All I got from them did not print well at all. There's a heckalot more variation in PETG formulations then PLA and ABS.

[John Mueller]

Atomic Filament, Prusament, Matterhackers Build, and E3D Edge all have worked well in my Dreamer which has the same extruder as the creator. 240-245C

[Chris Jones]

Thank you everyone. I think I got a much better "basic" start now. All is really good info!

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 12:51:12 PM UTC-5, Chris Jones wrote:

[Chris Jones]

Micro Swiss upgrade done! Ok well 88.5% complete. I have to take it all apart again because I didn't realize I had to add space between the nozzle and bed when tightening everything down (directions didn't state that 😀) The nice part is because my machine is newer and not covered in goop everything came apart nicely as I was truly worrying about the comments of "you may need to beat on the sleeve with a hammer".

So tonight it's back to turning all those screws again so I can slide the block up a mm or 2. Tomorrow the glass plate gets installed and yes I splurged for the kit on Amazon. Hmm if I change to glass maybe I don't need to add the space 🤔

[John Mueller]

Check Thingiverse to see if you need the printed spacer?

If you need one and don't have a way to get one let me know and I will mail you one. Dreamer needs them, but I I just don't remember on the creator. It helps hit the limit switch for the added size of the glass.