counter top for benches
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greg southerland
Sep 23, 2012, 9:26:55 PM9/23/12
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we could use plywood and glue down hard wood flooring on it. it is a great look and not that expensive.
David Nielson
Sep 24, 2012, 5:56:02 PM9/24/12
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Is it too late to put holes in the top studs of the new walls so that
network cable can be dropped in and put in a box inside the wall? A wall
plate flat against a wall would look a lot better than wire(s) crawling
down the wall sticking into a box that's just taped to the wall, though
they will both work.
David
network cable can be dropped in and put in a box inside the wall? A wall
plate flat against a wall would look a lot better than wire(s) crawling
down the wall sticking into a box that's just taped to the wall, though
they will both work.
David
Chris K.
Sep 24, 2012, 10:49:46 PM9/24/12
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Dude, if you think "wire(s) crawling down the wall sticking into a box that's just taped to the wall" is, in any way, acceptable, then please do the world a favor and never run any sort of wiring... internal or external... ever.
Anyway, to answer your question, yes, it is very much too late to run anything inside those walls. The sheet-rock is already up (thanks largely to my father, who drove down from Dallas to visit, and ended up helping me hang drywall instead) and has already been mudded (twice) by Tristan.
Roland von Kurnatowski III
Sep 25, 2012, 1:30:59 AM9/25/12
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not bad greg, i was hoping to find something for the electrical benches that is ESD safe though but that might be a pipe dream.
Jeff Hutchison
Sep 25, 2012, 9:25:41 AM9/25/12
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It's never too late - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwXAWsp9wps
However, it would've been substantially easier before the drywall was up.
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Jeff Hutchison
Sep 25, 2012, 9:29:21 AM9/25/12
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That is, unless we were instructed in another thread not to run any service of any type in the walls. Conduit it is, then.
Marlin
Sep 25, 2012, 11:35:10 AM9/25/12
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Tile or even concrete might solve the ESD discharge thing. Tile is
problematic because of dirt getting between the grout. Concrete can
be kind of cool plus probably low maintenance.
On Sep 25, 12:30 am, Roland von Kurnatowski III <rta...@gmail.com>
wrote:
problematic because of dirt getting between the grout. Concrete can
be kind of cool plus probably low maintenance.
On Sep 25, 12:30 am, Roland von Kurnatowski III <rta...@gmail.com>
wrote:
David Nielson
Sep 25, 2012, 11:54:42 PM9/25/12
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I understand being protective of your work, especially since some of it
did get undone and had to be re-done. I sympathize. We've moved the
supercomputer, piece by piece, three times, and it's still not where it
needs to be.
Wires crawling down the walls is what we had at the old space, and I
don't think it's OK, and I want to do something better at the new space.
That said, the best-looking, least expensive, and best method from a
technical standpoint, would be to put the wire inside the walls, and yes
it would have been easier earlier. Low-voltage doesn't require conduit,
so it would save a lot of money to put it inside the wall. The only
holes that need to be added would be on the top of the wall, and where
the actual box will go. That's it.
I get the emotional attachment, I really do. But we're not here to
compete, we're here to cooperate. Is there a better option we can come
up with?
David
> <mailto:txrx...@googlegroups.com>.
> <mailto:txrxlabs%2Bunsu...@googlegroups.com>.
did get undone and had to be re-done. I sympathize. We've moved the
supercomputer, piece by piece, three times, and it's still not where it
needs to be.
Wires crawling down the walls is what we had at the old space, and I
don't think it's OK, and I want to do something better at the new space.
That said, the best-looking, least expensive, and best method from a
technical standpoint, would be to put the wire inside the walls, and yes
it would have been easier earlier. Low-voltage doesn't require conduit,
so it would save a lot of money to put it inside the wall. The only
holes that need to be added would be on the top of the wall, and where
the actual box will go. That's it.
I get the emotional attachment, I really do. But we're not here to
compete, we're here to cooperate. Is there a better option we can come
up with?
David
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Brian Dawson
Sep 26, 2012, 1:36:27 AM9/26/12
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Chris
Sep 26, 2012, 11:25:46 AM9/26/12
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We've tried something similar at the previous space (on the table), and it really was just a bad idea. Hanging conduit urk.
Let's just put holes in the damned walls (carefully), mud over, and move on with life.
Let's just put holes in the damned walls (carefully), mud over, and move on with life.
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Chris
Sep 26, 2012, 11:35:04 AM9/26/12
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Addendum:
I don't believe that paint has been applied yet--it will make life harder (and probably not look as great) if we paint before trying to run cable. We should probably take care of the cabling issue first, so that the paintover looks right.
I don't believe that paint has been applied yet--it will make life harder (and probably not look as great) if we paint before trying to run cable. We should probably take care of the cabling issue first, so that the paintover looks right.
Kenny Loveall
Sep 26, 2012, 12:28:25 PM9/26/12
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Also, you don't even have to mud over the holes. You literally just cut a square, feed the wire through and stick the box in. There's two types, the new construction (you use before you put the Sheetrock on), and old construction (for sticking in walls that exist). Obviously we'll want the old ones. They look great (the faceplate covers the box and wires...) and are super easy.
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Mark Sullivan
Sep 27, 2012, 12:01:11 PM9/27/12
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Some of us had discussed this whole problem vis-a-vis the electrical wiring. We decided on surface conduit for several reasons:
1. We can't use Romex because the walls aren't continuous.
2. Surface mount lets us do a phased installation - we only have to pay for the essential areas now and we can build out as we have time and money. Also, we can add on later in a consistent way if we add equipment that requires special service.
3. It is an appropriate artistic choice that fits the "geek chic" aesthetic of the lab. Think Pompidou center.
Especially for the latter reason, I suggest using surface mount wiring duct for the data lines. Artistically, if you're going to break the rules, break them big and intentionally. So instead of hiding the wires in the walls, embrace the look of exposed conduit. Better yet, paint the conduit bright primary colors so everyone understands that it's a choice, not a compromise.
Also, we're still up against the lack of contiguous walls. Yes, you can run LV wiring without conduit but if you run it in an "environmental air space", i.e. not inside the wall, you have to use plenum-rated cable which is more expensive.
I've used this duct/raceway in the past and I thought it looked fine. The PN05 size will carry 5 ea CAT5 or 3 CAT6. It comes with a PSA backing and you can get all kinds of elbows, tees, outlet boxes, etc for it.
- Mark -
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Mark Sullivan
Sep 28, 2012, 2:23:17 PM9/28/12
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The Eclipse Raceway is about $.25 per foot. About the same as 1/2" EMT conduit
Eclipse elbows, tees, etc are typically about $1.50 M/L
I priced a box with two CAT-6 rated 8P8C modular jacks about $30, of which $20 is the jacks which seems ridiculous.
Those are Amp jacks so there may be something cheaper.
- Mark Sullivan -
> I'm a bit curious what the price for raceways or conduit is. A
> brief skimming of Home Depot suggests that, while 1/2" dia. 10'
> lengths of conduit aren't too expensive, the associate hardware is.
>
> We still have to run overhead races regardless, so that part I'm
> not super concerned about (as long as maintenance is easy--open
> troughs or boxes would be preferred for that reason).
>
> On Thursday, September 27, 2012 11:01:27 AM UTC-5, Mark Sullivan
>>> <mailto:...@googlegroups.com>. To unsubscribe from this
Eclipse elbows, tees, etc are typically about $1.50 M/L
I priced a box with two CAT-6 rated 8P8C modular jacks about $30, of which $20 is the jacks which seems ridiculous.
Those are Amp jacks so there may be something cheaper.
- Mark Sullivan -
> I'm a bit curious what the price for raceways or conduit is. A
> brief skimming of Home Depot suggests that, while 1/2" dia. 10'
> lengths of conduit aren't too expensive, the associate hardware is.
>
> We still have to run overhead races regardless, so that part I'm
> not super concerned about (as long as maintenance is easy--open
> troughs or boxes would be preferred for that reason).
>
> On Thursday, September 27, 2012 11:01:27 AM UTC-5, Mark Sullivan
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