seized bottom bracket cup
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MobileBill
Jun 11, 2012, 8:29:00 PM6/11/12
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Hey
I think I've heard all the tricks for removing, and will problably be seeking an appropriately long pipe tomorrow, but I'd like your thoughts: Is it likely that I could damage the frame of my Saluki or the bottom bracket threads just by applying more leverage in an attempt to free the seized drive side cup? I hear the carbon and aluminum guys fretting about such things, but what are the chances with steel? If threads get stripped in the process, can they be re-chased in a reliable way?
THe left side came off easily, but the drive side has proved tougher. I doubt soaking in oil will help, since the threads were only recently greased. It appears that the drive side really got torqued up a few weeks ago by a mechanic, who was hoping to take some play out of the cranks. But it seems the play REALLY was a faulty or failing cartridge, so now I need to remove and replace. Damn. I'm ready to get back on this bike, but don't want to mess it up.
Eric Norris
Jun 11, 2012, 8:39:50 PM6/11/12
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Are you 100% sure you're turning it in the right direction? Standard (English) bottom brackets have left-hand threads on the drive side; your Saluki should unscrew by turning the drive side cup clockwise.
--Eric N
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MobileBill
Jun 11, 2012, 9:23:47 PM6/11/12
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Yes, that's always a good reminder when you get down in those pedal parts, and I shoulda mentioned that I did make sure I was turning it clockwise to loosen. It's just a booger to turn.
On Monday, June 11, 2012 7:39:50 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
On Monday, June 11, 2012 7:39:50 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
Are you 100% sure you're turning it in the right direction? Standard (English) bottom brackets have left-hand threads on the drive side; your Saluki should unscrew by turning the drive side cup clockwise.--Eric N
On Jun 11, 2012, at 5:29 PM, MobileBill wrote:
HeyI think I've heard all the tricks for removing, and will problably be seeking an appropriately long pipe tomorrow, but I'd like your thoughts: Is it likely that I could damage the frame of my Saluki or the bottom bracket threads just by applying more leverage in an attempt to free the seized drive side cup? I hear the carbon and aluminum guys fretting about such things, but what are the chances with steel? If threads get stripped in the process, can they be re-chased in a reliable way?THe left side came off easily, but the drive side has proved tougher. I doubt soaking in oil will help, since the threads were only recently greased. It appears that the drive side really got torqued up a few weeks ago by a mechanic, who was hoping to take some play out of the cranks. But it seems the play REALLY was a faulty or failing cartridge, so now I need to remove and replace. Damn. I'm ready to get back on this bike, but don't want to mess it up.--
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Cyclofiend
Jun 12, 2012, 10:20:03 AM6/12/12
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My first thought was the same as Eric - make sure you are turning that
the right way. I have seen far better mechanics than myself get
crossed up on bb shells.
It's reasonably unlikely to do damage to the frame by torquing the
correct direction. I'd try to be aware of the tool fit on the bb
shell (if it suddenly pops out, you could gouge that frame pretty
easily). The other concern would be how you braced the frame itself -
you are going to have a loooong lever arm on that. So, clamping by
the seat post would certainly be better than a clamp on one of the
tubes (which could get crimped). I'd try to use the hands (generally
softer than clamp jaws) of strong and helpful individuals.
IF your bb shell and workspace allows it, you may find it works better
to fit the tool in a solid bench vise, and then turn the frame.
Again, a second set of hands can help to keep everything "in plane".
There's also the walk-in freezer trick.
Good luck!
- Jim / cyclofiend.com
the right way. I have seen far better mechanics than myself get
crossed up on bb shells.
It's reasonably unlikely to do damage to the frame by torquing the
correct direction. I'd try to be aware of the tool fit on the bb
shell (if it suddenly pops out, you could gouge that frame pretty
easily). The other concern would be how you braced the frame itself -
you are going to have a loooong lever arm on that. So, clamping by
the seat post would certainly be better than a clamp on one of the
tubes (which could get crimped). I'd try to use the hands (generally
softer than clamp jaws) of strong and helpful individuals.
IF your bb shell and workspace allows it, you may find it works better
to fit the tool in a solid bench vise, and then turn the frame.
Again, a second set of hands can help to keep everything "in plane".
There's also the walk-in freezer trick.
Good luck!
- Jim / cyclofiend.com
PATRICK MOORE
Jun 12, 2012, 10:29:33 AM6/12/12
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Maybe Rivendell snuck in French or Swiss threading? Both have
different thread pitch and French RH cups thread in clockwise, not
counter-clockwise. Or no, that's Swiss; French have different threads
but thread in like English ones. Or no, that's French. Or not.
Seriously, my erstwhile and Eric Norris's present Motobecane has
French threads. Or Swiss -- never did figure it out, just had the LBS
get the right cups from Phil.
More seriously yet! I've applied huge amounts of torque to RH cups on
steel frames and never had a problem as long as (1) the cup was not
cross-threaded and (2) I carefully secured the jaws of the clamping
device (I run an old front QR through the axle with huge washers at
either end).
Please God your mechanic hasn't cross threaded the cup.
--
"Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."
Flannery O'Connor
-------------------------
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-------------------------
different thread pitch and French RH cups thread in clockwise, not
counter-clockwise. Or no, that's Swiss; French have different threads
but thread in like English ones. Or no, that's French. Or not.
Seriously, my erstwhile and Eric Norris's present Motobecane has
French threads. Or Swiss -- never did figure it out, just had the LBS
get the right cups from Phil.
More seriously yet! I've applied huge amounts of torque to RH cups on
steel frames and never had a problem as long as (1) the cup was not
cross-threaded and (2) I carefully secured the jaws of the clamping
device (I run an old front QR through the axle with huge washers at
either end).
Please God your mechanic hasn't cross threaded the cup.
> --
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--
"Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."
Flannery O'Connor
-------------------------
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-------------------------
MobileBill
Jun 12, 2012, 10:39:25 PM6/12/12
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Thanks for y'alls advice and concern and general hand holding. We got bold and cracked it, figuratively speaking, with the help of four arms and a torque wrench ( the hardest part, as Jim and others indicated, is keeping the tool from slipping outta the cup and figuring out how to keep the frame from flexing and squirming _ it doesn't work if you try to do it while the bike's in the repair stand).The new cartridge cups screwed on like a charm, so there was no damage to the (very English!) thread.It appears the old cartridge had literally been cracked long before we loosed it and that was evidently the cause of the failed cartridge. I've heard of cracked cups, but have never seen yjr cartridge housing itself cracked. Strange.
But the Saluki rides better than it has ridden in months. Glad to be back in the saddle again. Even better, I had an excuse to commute (18 miles round trip) on my wife's Betty Foy for a week, ladies short nose wide seated springy saddle and all. Thought I would hate it. But I think I might do it again just for the fun of it.
But the Saluki rides better than it has ridden in months. Glad to be back in the saddle again. Even better, I had an excuse to commute (18 miles round trip) on my wife's Betty Foy for a week, ladies short nose wide seated springy saddle and all. Thought I would hate it. But I think I might do it again just for the fun of it.
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PATRICK MOORE
Jun 14, 2012, 3:20:23 PM6/14/12
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This is also what leftover wheel quick releases were created for.
Spacer may be required.
On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 8:15 AM, Michael Santos
<santosm...@gmail.com> wrote:
> You can thread a bolt through the bottom bracket tool into the spindle to keep the tool in place, can't remember the size, maybe 8mm fine pitch. Then just use a cheater bar over your adjustable wrench for extra leverage.
> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
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Spacer may be required.
On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 8:15 AM, Michael Santos
<santosm...@gmail.com> wrote:
> You can thread a bolt through the bottom bracket tool into the spindle to keep the tool in place, can't remember the size, maybe 8mm fine pitch. Then just use a cheater bar over your adjustable wrench for extra leverage.
>
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Thomas Lynn Skean
Jun 14, 2012, 4:48:49 PM6/14/12
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And in the realm of overkill, there's a $10 Pedro's Bottom Bracket Holder tool that makes it easy to maintain a good connection between wrench handle/bottom-bracket-tool/bottom-bracket. It's basically an easy-to-tighten-and-loosen bolt of appropriate length.
Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean
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