Paul Racer Set Up

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Brian Campbell

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May 13, 2012, 11:03:56 PM5/13/12
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Have a set of the Racers on my Riv and while they work well, they seem to be problematic to set up. The Paul instructions are pretty generic. Anybody do this somewhat regularly that could offer some detailed advice? Maybe explain their process?

Peter Morgano

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May 13, 2012, 11:07:18 PM5/13/12
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Somewhat confused,  what do you mean by setup and why would you have to do it more than once or twice?  What issue are you having specifically?

On May 13, 2012 11:03 PM, "Brian Campbell" <bdcamp...@gmail.com> wrote:
Have a set of the Racers on my Riv and while they work well, they seem to be problematic to set up. The Paul instructions are pretty generic. Anybody do this somewhat regularly that could offer some detailed advice? Maybe explain their process?

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Brian Campbell

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May 13, 2012, 11:11:28 PM5/13/12
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Uneven distance from the rim for the pads, even with the springs set to the same tension. Front lever feels soft and can almost reach the bar when squeezed hard. Front brake seems as if it should have more stopping power.

Peter Morgano

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May 13, 2012, 11:58:56 PM5/13/12
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Hmm, if the springs are the same tension is it just that the brake is uneven, ie not squared over the middle of the tire, this can be a common problem with centerpulls, as you tension it down it tends to rotate, leaving it uneven on the pads, a solution for this is to line it up with the nut loose then have a friend squeeze the lever really hard while you tension it down. As for soft feeling in front brake and bottoming out on the bars that is more of a feature of the cables, are you using cheapies or do you have too much slack in the system?  I have this problem with the rear when I do a re-cabling because of the long run but usually in the front not so much.  Sorry if these are simple fixes you have tried already.

cyclotourist

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May 14, 2012, 12:05:06 AM5/14/12
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Do you have the braze-on kind, or the one with the adapter for center hole? The braze on kind are a cinch to center up, but the center bolt takes a bit of work. Play with the tension on each side and see if that does anything. You have to hold the flats pretty tight or it'll turn when you tighten up the 5mm bolt.
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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“I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I love.”

Marc Schwartz

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May 13, 2012, 11:22:54 PM5/13/12
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Brian,
Don't know if I'm doin' it right, but I use the spring tension in each side to fine adjust the respective pad distance for each side, not obsessing about keeping tension even side-to-side. For power, I keep the yoke close to the brake and the yoke cable short. Am eager to find out if this is correct, or how to do it proper if not.

Regards,
Marc
________________________________________
From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com] on behalf of Brian Campbell [bdcamp...@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 9:11 PM
To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Set Up

Uneven distance from the rim for the pads, even with the springs set to the same tension. Front lever feels soft and can almost reach the bar when squeezed hard. Front brake seems as if it should have more stopping power.

On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 11:07 PM, Peter Morgano <uscpet...@gmail.com<mailto:uscpet...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Somewhat confused, what do you mean by setup and why would you have to do it more than once or twice? What issue are you having specifically?

On May 13, 2012 11:03 PM, "Brian Campbell" <bdcamp...@gmail.com<mailto:bdcamp...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Have a set of the Racers on my Riv and while they work well, they seem to be problematic to set up. The Paul instructions are pretty generic. Anybody do this somewhat regularly that could offer some detailed advice? Maybe explain their process?


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Cyclofiend Jim

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May 14, 2012, 3:36:22 PM5/14/12
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Did you see this on the Paul site:

http://www.paulcomp.com/braketech.html

Also, "soft at the lever" does mean more power at the rim.  The trick is to find the balance between powerful and not bottoming out on the handlebar. 

AASHTA - still the best reference for understanding the variables of yoke length, height, etc.  even if it is written for canti's

http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

- J
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