IN-9's for sale

[Dan Foster]

Hello,
I have a few (10) IN-9 Bargraph tubes that I no longer want, thought I'd ask here before I list them on eBay. Anyone interested?

[Dan Foster]

$1.25 per tube, any quantity. Shipping is a USPS padded flat rate envelope. $5.30 inside US, $12.95 to Canada or Mexico, and $16.95 to any other country.

[Bryan Goines]

I am interested. I'll send the money for 4 tubes and shipping in USA this Friday and as soon as you receive the payment from me, you can ship them.

Do you have PayPal? 

Thanks!

-- 

Bryan Goines

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On Tuesday, November 27, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Dan Foster wrote:

$1.25 per tube, any quantity. Shipping is a USPS padded flat rate envelope. $5.30 inside US, $12.95 to Canada or Mexico, and $16.95 to any other country.

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[Terry S]

Padded envelope? They would never survive my mail carrier.

[Adam Jacobs]

Not mine either. USMail has free boxes if you ship priority, which you should be able to do for about $5. Padded envelopes would arrive to me filled with glass shards.

:)

-Adam

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[Michel]

Just out of interest, is the IN-9 brighter than the IN-13? IN-9 requires 10mA current for full bar and IN-13 4mA. Wondering where the extra 6mA goes to, heat or light?

Michel

[Adam Jacobs]

I found this at radiomuseum.org:
<quote>

At this point, I should clarify the difference between the IN-9 and the IN-13

The IN-13 takes up to 5mA for a 12cm orange glow from Neon gas, and has three electrodes. One  perforated cylinder as the anode, a central wire cathode for the glow, and a short pilot cathode to start the glow.

Most IN-9 take up to 10mA for a 10cm purple glow from Argon gas, and only have two electrodes.

But some IN-9, like the one used in this thread, are filled with Neon gas and glow orange, but the current rating and size are still same.

Confusion between the two glow colors caused me to make a mistake I made in this thread: The tube you see in this thread is a 2 pin IN-9, not a 3 pin IN-13.

In terms of application of the tube, the two glow tubes the significant differences are the maximum current and the extra pilot cathode for the IN-13. The strike voltage around 120V and sustain voltage around 100V are similar among all three tubes.

The IN-13 has twice the sensitivity of the IN-9, so this should be taken into account when applying the tube. If the glow swing is too extreme, some resistance in series with the tube can be added.

The pilot cathode of the IN-13 requires a small current to insure that the main cathode starts properly. This negative bias could be obtained with a 100-500kOhm resistor to the grid circuit of the local oscillator. The grid of the local oscillator, usually develops around -10V, which is enough to supply up to 100uA into the pilot cathode of the IN-13.

The extra -10V of bias at the pilot cathode of the IN-13, eliminates the need for the startup circuit with a diode and resistor, which I included in the circuit above for the IN-9. This was necessary because the low B+ of an AC/DC 117VAC radio may not guaranty the starting voltage for the two terminal IN-9.

Best regards,

-Joe

</quote>
 
-Adam

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[Dan Foster]

My PayPal email is danfos...@gmail.com

I'll send it in a box, same shipping cost. Send me an email with your address, etc.

[Michel]

Thanks for the info Adam. It doesn't really explain why the current is higher / sensitivity is lower for the IN-9. I still expect the IN9 to be brighter as the higher current should ionize more neon. Maybe I should measure it one day.

Michel

[Jon]

Michel - that's exactly what happens. IN-9 tubes are significantly brighter than IN-13, and to my eyes much better for general use. I made this thing (http://youtu.be/mQ1567EFCY0) with IN-13 and both flavours of IN9. Although the IN-13 were bigger, used less current and were more predictable to play with, the dimmer display meant that version needed a fairly low ambient light environment. FYI IN9 are also more prone to 'sleeping sickness', particularly the argon ones.

 

Cheers,

 

Jon.

[Michel van der Meij]

That is an interesting display Jon, thanks for the info and link! How do you make the step down animation? Did you post a schematic somewhere of this clock? The sleeping sickness is probably related to the part of the tube that is not lit? I mean, in your clock setup this wouldn’t really be an issue, right?

 

Michel

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[Michel van der Meij]

I think I know how to do the step-down animation, you probably switch anode and cathode in an H-bridge style circuit. Anyway, I think the tubes are really interesting so I bought myself a bunch on ebay. Amazing how cheap they actually are!! Even a complete clock with 4 7-segment displays cost only a little bit.

 

Michel

 

 

 

 

From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Sent: Thursday, 29 November 2012 9:50 AM
To: neoni...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN-9's for sale

 

Michel - that's exactly what happens. IN-9 tubes are significantly brighter than IN-13, and to my eyes much better for general use. I made this thing (http://youtu.be/mQ1567EFCY0) with IN-13 and both flavours of IN9. Although the IN-13 were bigger, used less current and were more predictable to play with, the dimmer display meant that version needed a fairly low ambient light environment. FYI IN9 are also more prone to 'sleeping sickness', particularly the argon ones.

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[Jon]

Glad you liked it - was my first venture into designing my own clocks. I haven't posted a schematic, but there isn't really much to it in hardware. The tubes are driven by single transistor voltage-controlled current sinks which are run by an octal DAC controlled by a PIC. The rest is just HV generation, managing the RTC and USB interface etc. The complexity is in the software rather than the hardware (in part because that's my background!). Grahame has also built a similar single digit clock using IN-13 and the same octal DAC. The step down animation doesn't use any clever hardware like you suggest in the other post - all the effects are done in firmware.

 

Sleeping sickness refers to the observation that you won't be able to light the full length of the tube with the rated current when you receive it from the supplier. Storage results in some kind of aging of the cathode surface which makes them resistant to glow. You can burn it off with over-current treatment, but not all tubes recover satisfactorily. My sense is that the effect hits IN9 argon > IN9 neon >> IN13.

 

Cheers,

 

Jon.

[Michel van der Meij]

Interesting, at the moment I can’t think of a way to achieve the step-down animation J

 

Michel

 

 

 

 

From: neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Sent: Thursday, 29 November 2012 11:58 AM
To: neoni...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN-9's for sale

 

Glad you liked it - was my first venture into designing my own clocks. I haven't posted a schematic, but there isn't really much to it in hardware. The tubes are driven by single transistor voltage-controlled current sinks which are run by an octal DAC controlled by a PIC. The rest is just HV generation, managing the RTC and USB interface etc. The complexity is in the software rather than the hardware (in part because that's my background!). Grahame has also built a similar single digit clock using IN-13 and the same octal DAC. The step down animation doesn't use any clever hardware like you suggest in the other post - all the effects are done in firmware.

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