Is Blue Tape Necessary for my Rep 2 Build Plate?

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DrGlassDPM

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Nov 27, 2012, 7:13:44 PM11/27/12
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I'm unboxing my Rep 2 (which arrived this morning), and It came with several sheets of blue tape.  Do I actually need to apply it to the build plate?

I'm not likely to use it unless people's experiences say, "yes".

Thanks in advance,
Nick

JohnA.

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Nov 27, 2012, 7:24:10 PM11/27/12
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I would follow whatever directions come with it? 

Historically blue tape has been a good surface for printing in PLA, but some people have said it sticks just fine to the new acrylic platform without it.

Whatever you print on, it needs to be clean and oil free - including fingerprints!   

JohnA.

Big Bonenfant

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Nov 27, 2012, 7:34:05 PM11/27/12
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 The Answer is Yes Yes Yes - Cant Build without it - It wont stick to the build platform long after ( Will work for your first 5 prints) Then it stops sticking and you think its un level and waste 2 hours trouble shooting or i did. 
Just use regular blue painter tape from walmart 3 pack of the good stuff is like $20 will last you like a year - And change everytime you print in the area. Wasted plastic cost 10 x more then the time and cost of tape each time. 
Hope I helped 


On Tuesday, November 27, 2012 7:13:44 PM UTC-5, DrGlassDPM wrote:

Big-E

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Nov 27, 2012, 9:44:21 PM11/27/12
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Plus it's cheap protection in the event of a malfunction or accident, it will help keep you from accidentally scratching up the build plate with the nozzle.

John Biehler

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Nov 28, 2012, 12:58:58 AM11/28/12
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I have yet to use the blue tape that came with my Rep2 and have printed hundreds of objects just fine. If it doesn't stick, the nozzle isn't close enough or the bed isn't level. 

Sean J

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Nov 28, 2012, 4:44:28 AM11/28/12
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I've also found that wiping the build platform with alcohol (I use 70% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol) will remove any fingerprint oils and help with adhesion.

Infinityplusplus

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Nov 28, 2012, 8:24:48 AM11/28/12
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I found my prints sticking too good without the tape. USE the tape!
 
The scotch 3m tape works well, I had a roll of blue hawk tape and it would tear off with the prints, not hold to the build plate, it sucked. just a side note.

Jetguy

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Nov 28, 2012, 2:05:34 PM11/28/12
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Best quote ever:
Peter La Fleur: [after Patches hits Justin in the face with a wrench]
Yeah, uh, Patches... are you sure that this is completely necessary?
Patches O'Houlihan: Necessary? Is it necessary for me to drink my own
urine?
Peter La Fleur: Probably not.
Patches O'Houlihan: No, but I do it anyway because it's sterile and I
like the taste.
Peter La Fleur: ...Okay.

DrGlassDPM

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Nov 28, 2012, 2:44:31 PM11/28/12
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I suppose I just don't like the idea of covering up the build plate.  It looks very neat, with the fluorescent light refracting through it.

I do have one smear that has proven to be stubborn and not come off well.  I'll try scrapping it off and see what gives.  

Eureka

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Nov 28, 2012, 8:06:32 PM11/28/12
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Contrary to common belive, acrylic sheets make an excellent build plattform for pla, in fact, i only use bare acrlylic sheets for all my prints now days. It is a bit of a learning curve, and not all acrylic sheets are of the same quality, but when you find the ones that works, say good by forever to all cinds of tapes. Also, when the print is done, i just pop out the sheet, bend in slightly in different direction, and the parts almost pops of by them selfes. However, using the replicator 2 acrylic build plattform is not a good idea, simply beacuse A: Its not made for it and therefor probably doesnt have the optimum properties for it, and B: its specially made, and therefore cost more to replace after wear and tear.

I use a Replicator 1 with my own addon in order to be able to use 3mm thick acrlylic sheets cheaply bought at any hardware store. You can find this addon at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32057. Sure, this is designed for the Replicator one, but im sure you can modify it in order to make it work on Replicator 2. Good luck!

Jetty

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Nov 29, 2012, 10:22:57 AM11/29/12
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Still looks neat with the blue tape on. Put the "M's" down, and the
light goes through the blue
tape and you get blue refraction through the plate still that you can
see through the edges. It isn't
totally opaque.

John Biehler

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Nov 29, 2012, 11:50:39 AM11/29/12
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Eureka: Curious as to why you say the Rep 2's acrylic build platform isn't a good idea and it's not made for it then say that it's specially made?

As I mentioned earlier, I've printed 100s of things on it and it shows no sign of wear and tear and is easily the best build platform I've used on any of the 4 printers I own.

I've never been a fan of the finish that blue tape leaves on the bottom facing side and tried to use glass on my RepRap as much as possible but certain filaments just wouldn't stick unless I used blue tape....but on the Rep 2, this hasn't been a problem at all.

Eighty

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Nov 29, 2012, 12:24:58 PM11/29/12
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I have tried both ways on my Rep2.  Blue tape works pretty well - sticks ok (not great), but still easy to remove prints.
 
The acrylic platform holds the PLA way better - to the point that I struggle to get a print off without breaking it.  Last night, I tried printing directly on the MBI logo side, and it stuck "too" well.  The indentations really grab the plastic.
 
My current thoughts/plans are to use blue tape all the time unless I have a print that really wants to peel up.  Then I'll print it directly on the acrylic.
 
It would be nice to have a blue tape side and a bare side, so I could just flip the bed over when I need to.  But given the slight warp that I have, I'm only successful in getting large prints with one orientation.

Dr. Glass DPM

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Nov 29, 2012, 12:46:47 PM11/29/12
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Slight warp?  Was that from an uneven tape application or a deformation incurred wrestling the print off?

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John Biehler

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Nov 29, 2012, 1:07:12 PM11/29/12
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Eighty - was your plate warped from the beginning? If so, you should request a replacement from MBI. Although I have a feeling this was already been discussed.

Arnold Martin

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Nov 29, 2012, 1:20:07 PM11/29/12
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Building non stop for a week now and I have not used tape at all. One build stuck and it was printed on the finest resolution and cancelled only a couple mm in. So it seems like thin stuff printed on the finest res will stick like crazy (pobably because of the increased heat transfer from the extruder to the acrylic). But, a little work with a sharp razor, and some careful sanding with a block and some 320 grit and it was good to go again. I have not had anything stick since. I have also found that it really is all in the leveling of the plate. If your plate it warped it will likely cause problems and if you are too tight to the plate it will stick and if you are too loose it will not. Most of the last week's printing has also been raft-free and support free because I have been experimenting with building my own supports for certain models. Oh and this is all on the un-engraved side of the plate.

Arnie

Eighty

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Nov 29, 2012, 3:19:33 PM11/29/12
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I'm not sure what to do with the build plate.  It's terrible on the non-engraved side (tight in the center, very loose at the ends).  But if I flip it over, it's almost perfect.  When I say terrible, I mean something along the lines of 0.1 to 0.15mm.  But that's enough to have a bad print when it's at the outboard ends.
 
The plate came this way.  I have seen some others commenting about the same issue, so I assume that it's a bit common.  There's another thread about this (Changing First Layer Height).  Basically, my problem was solved by flipping the plate over and installing blue tape.

riggeek

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Dec 12, 2012, 12:25:52 PM12/12/12
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I have been printing directly on the Rep2 build plate - didn't receive any blue tape in my box. So I actually had problems with pieces sticking on too hard - particularly 0.1mm layer prints. I read that some people wipe the acrylic surface with a thin film of vegetable oil, so I gave that a try. Strangely enough, it seems to work just fine. I just dab a bit of oil on a paper towel and wipe the surface so there is a very fine film. Greasy to touch but not visible. So far so good, and the work pieces are much easier to break off with less force.

Arnold Martin

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Dec 12, 2012, 2:14:31 PM12/12/12
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I had a similar experience with turpentine when I used a tiny amount on a rag to clean dust off the plate after a light 400 grit sanding to redress the surface. The turpentine left an oily film on the acrylic along with a nice even etch that seems to aid in part release. I also read in another forum that polycarbonate rather than acrylic with a light oil works great with PLA but I have not bought the polycarbonate to make my own build plate and try it yet. Thanks for the tip!
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