I believe he alluded to that:
>My opinion will be biased naturally and I own both
Seriously?? :O
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@alijosa: I guess it would be nice to put something on your signature. nothing too official, something along the lines of what Far does worksnot that I'm complaining, I already knew you work there and I got the clues right away to remind me.
El 17/07/2012, a las 21:42, randyzimmer escribió:
I caught it right away and I didn't have any previous knowledge to go on.
Ax to grind?
On Tuesday, July 17, 2012 9:17:30 PM UTC-4, ddurant wrote:Seriously?? :O--
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This thread got me to wondering about a .1mm print on my Replicator. So I tried it with the MULHER figure. I set the speed at 60/80 and 240/110C on the ext-HBP. I came out great, its that simple. One Issue is that as the amount of area in a layer gets small it spends more time heat soaking under that hot nozzle. I'm talk parts like a single 1/8'' standoff size. I'm sure there is a wait feature in there somewhere. I'll cross that bridge when I need to.
I've built hundred of PC's and the only ones that came close to the three cnc machines I've built were custom case water cooled experimental overclockers. Even that was less of a headache than my first cnc machine. It was a great first kit but took me years to get it stable running year in year out. Plus it took many of the tools in my shop to build and do those mods.
My Replicator is so thought-out locked in square and true and so easy to adjust I see it doing its job a long time. Which is great. I spent time designing and not tinkering. It's great having a customer describe his needs and the next day I'm handing over a part. ''Wow, that's great, and you snuck a solar cell in there too, Sweeeeet, should work perfect' You want cash or check?''
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When you turn on skin, do you use a slower feed as well on the skin, while keeping fill faster? I recently saw a really slow and thin print on a Bukobot, and I have to say that the quality was fantastic.
On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 1:07 PM, ddurant wrote:
Skin is a skeinforge (skeinforge = software that chops up the model to gcode, which the machine can understand) option that splits up the outer surfaces of an object into multiple layers.The result is that the visible portions of the object get printed at a higher resolution than the interior of the object. There is disagreement on how valuable this is but worst case, you get nicer prints without the added time-expense of doing the infill at high resolution.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/wu41J7mygwgJ.
On Wednesday, July 18, 2012 4:01:10 PM UTC-4, Blizzard wrote:@Martin Galese--
What do you mean by set the Skin plugin at 4x?
Thanks for all the responses so far (even though some went a bit offtopic), also I'm glad this thread could help Cymon with now having the convenience of printing at 0.1mm. I think I'm most likely getting the Replicator.
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The Replicator 7 day lead time is also a consideration that people looking to buy need to be aware of. The Ultimaker 'implied' lead time of 9 days when I purchased mine has since upped to 14, and after asking today it looks to be another week at a minimum making it almost a total of 30 days when ordered in mid July. I think UM has a great product but could do better at customer communication in many areas.
I guess that's the trouble then, it can take a few hours or a month but you just won't know until they decide to ship it. And asking when or what the delay is brings no definite information, might come then or it might come later ... who knows. If a lead time is indicated, delivery should be around that time, not 3 times as long. And if it is late, there should be proactive communication with what the holdup is. The explanation I was given was they were checking filament and that was causing delays.
Conclusion: If you are looking for an expected result both on product and delivery, go with the replicator. If you can accept a more unknown product with potential more versatility, and are willing to wait, go with the Ultimaker.
And yes, still waiting for an ultimaker to be delivered making that a total of 28 days. Lead time on the UM page changed today to say 7 days. If you are still between an ultimaker vs replicator, I’d go with the replicator as UM is not to be believed.
Hey guys,I'm thinking about buying a 3d printer. I've read a lot about different printers and now my choice is down to these two printers. It's really hard to decide so maybe you could help me out, especially it would be helpful if anyone has worked with both of those systems.I want to print prototypes of product ideas I have. These are all mostly mechanical, so I'd need a printer which is as accurate as possible. Eg. if I have a part in my CAD which is 5.00mm long it should be 5.00mm long as exact as possible. I know it's not possible to get 100% accuracy, but I want to get as much as I can, but I'm not sure which of those printers is more accurate. I don't really care about speed. What I find interesting is that the Ultimaker is able to get incredible resolutions, as where the Replicator is still experimental at lower resolutions, so does anyone know if the Replicator is able to achieve a resolution of 0.1mm or smaller? I've heard of people who have been able to do it, even down to 0.04mm, which is what I've heard from Ultimaker users too, but more often and it seems to be more likely possible. The big plus of the Replicator would be the dual extrusion, so I could print in 2 colors or with different materials or even support structure in PVA, also that it's prebuilt. Not that it would be a problem for me to actually build the Ultimaker, but it's still a time-saver and I can be sure the machine is assembled properly and I have full guarantee in case something happens. I've seen a lot of people with the Ultimaker getting problems with stringing - is that still an issue? I'd like to have as minor finishing of the models as possible, I don't want to spend much time on the models itself once they're printed, so they have to come out great right out of the printer. I don't know which of those printers can achieve that better. Is it possible to print ABS with the Ultimaker? AFAIK the Replicator can do both, while PLA is still experimental. Also, I'd like to know how the maintenance is with both printers. From the Replicator I know you have to grease the rods every now and then and also level the build platform, but I haven't found anything for the Ultimaker. Do you also have to do some kind of maintenance frequently like the leveling of the build platform on the Replicator? I heard that you have to do it quite often which would be a disadvantage, as I want a machine which just works.I hope that's enough information for now, and I also hope that someone could help me on my decision.Thanks in Advance,Blizzard
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