Replicator Hood and Panels

[drandolph]

I've put my laser cutter to work and I have put together some kits
with all the laser cut parts and hardware for the hood and panels on
the replicator.
It has helped control the temperature and air flow in mine and really
reduce the curling on my prints.

If you're curious on what it looks like check out my derivative on
thingiverse.com
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23386

Right now I have 5 kits ready to ship and I can make more but I
figured I would start with 5 and see how many people would be
interested.

If you want one of the kits just email me at david(at)avidquestion
(dot)com

[Gary Crowell]

$$?

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.
To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.

--
----------------------------------------------
Gary A. Crowell Sr., P.E., CID+

Linkedin  Elance  KE7FIZ

[drando...@gmail.com]

I should have mentioned that.

If your in the lower 48 states the price is $150 including shipping.

As a side note and to make this post not look completely like spam I'm
also playing with using a lizard tank heater pad to bring up the
temperature of the enclosure and using the 40mm exhaust fan mount in
the hood to regulate everything. I also plan to put a temperature
probe in there to regulate the pad power so that will be fun to figure
out.

Here is the heat mat. http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/heat-mat.htm

My plan is cut an Aluminum plate on my Plasma bed and place it on the
bottom inside.

So far the hood and panels have really helped as well as raising the
temperature to 110-115

I'm now looking for the over to top way to make it even more stable
since the room I'm running it in fluctuates in temperature and
humidity wildly.
So I'll let everyone know if it makes it better or if the hood and
panels are all that are needed.

[Busybotz]

I saw when this was posted in Thingiverse. Very nice, it looks like something that should come in the big Replicator box. At least as an option. 

My Replicator is wearing covers from the local hardware store. Very thin acrylic. The hard part is making the top, so I can appreciate your design. I wonder if you have considered offering the top cover by itself?

[drando...@gmail.com]

The hood is the bulk of the parts so if you just want the hood
assembly I could sell it for $100.

BTW I agree it would be nice if they included it with their kit or had
it as an option to buy or add on.
Since they don't I figured I would till then. :)

[Doug Wire]

I was really excited to see this! Just as i was trying to solve the problem myself. Thanks! Im having a local engraver do it for me since im impatient.

[Busybotz]

This may not be the right place to ask, but I have been wondering... Why do the open frame bots such as the Mendel seem to be fine in the open air? What am I not understanding?

Thanks for the option to order just the hood. If my solution falls to pieces, I will check back with you.

Good luck with the kits. I would think every Replicator owner will want one sooner or later.

[Andrew Plumb]

For the most part they're using PLA. Much more forgiving (if not better quality) in drafts.

Andrew.

Sent from my iPhone

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/JY366v3dVxgJ.

[Busybotz]

Thanks Andrew. I have yet to try PLA. That is a big advantage right there.

[drando...@gmail.com]

Good luck. Just a few things to remember.
The version I modified was for 3mm acrylic (low cost and low laser
required to cut) but plenty to do the job.
The screw sizes I used are metric. If you try and use SAE your going
to have a bad time.
The good news is Home Depot and Lowes will carry the right sizes since
your in a rush.
Do not try and over tighten the screws, basically just tighten till
they don't wiggle.
Also don't clean acrylic with Windex or cleaners or your going to have
a bad time.
Use dish soap or hand soap.
Don't use anything abrasive on Acrylic or your going to have a bad
time.

On May 24, 12:43 pm, Doug Wire <dcw...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I was really excited to see this! Just as i was trying to solve the problem
> myself. Thanks! Im having a local engraver do it for me since im impatient.

> On May 24, 2012 2:40 PM, "da...@avidquestion.com" <drandolph1...@gmail.com>

[Zip Zap]

Have you checked out the video at http://www.makergear.com/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/makergear/7129050151/

---

From: Busybotz <mle...@gmail.com>
To: make...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2012 12:53 PM
Subject: [MakerBot] Re: Replicator Hood and Panels

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/JY366v3dVxgJ.

[drando...@gmail.com]

Check out the nice clips etrohn just posted over at thingiverse.com
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23636

While nuts and bolts work just fine isn't the reason we all have Replicators so we can print out solutions for everything?

[Cymon]

Technical question, with a cover the heat is kept in. Does that mean that I can expect to drop the heat of the build platform (currently 120c) and extruder  heads (currently 225c) and see better results?

[Dan Newman]

Don't expect to be able to drop the extruder temp, at least not for ABS.
With side panels, you should be able to drop the build platform to 110C
and see better results. The better results because there will be less
drafts, not because the build platform temp was dropped.

A ducted fan can also be a big help if you are having layers separate on
large builds.

Dan

[drando...@gmail.com]

Currently I haven't done enough prints to give an honest answer but what I've noticed is getting rid of air flow and retaining the heat inside the chamber is keeping it from separating and curling.

I still set mine to 110-120

[66tbird]

My ambient temps in my shop are 40-45C (not a typo- I live in a dry hot climate) and I run a full enclosure. My HBP is 100C and my extruder is 220C. So far my prints are perfect in any of the seven colors I have.  Once I left the panels off and a breeze came through and the print curled right off. So I can see why running open would need a warmer setting. As far as prints sticking, I'm about 150 prints into the show and I only clean the tape each morning because the print is hard to get off in my environment with  super clean tape.

[Andy]

I have a ghetto enclosure rigged up that is insulating pretty well. I've covered the sides and the top. My extruder heads are set to 220c, using default black and natural ABS filament from Makerbot.  My HBP is set to 110c.  Prints are coming out way better than expected and I haven't had any curling.  

Before I added the side and top covers, my rafts were curling quite a bit, but I also had the HBP set to 100. 

I like to jog the HBP down the Z axis and preheat the HBP *only*.  I usually leave the replicator in this state while Skeinforge is generating gcode.

The idea  is that this is basically heating up the print "chamber" so when printing begins it minimizes warping.  I haven't run any remotely scientific tests to see

If this helps, but the walls are warm to the touch so I think it is working.

San Francisco gets pretty cold all year round, and my replicator is not in a heated space/room.

-Andy

On May 24, 2012, at 2:53 PM, Cymon <joeal...@gmail.com> wrote:

Technical question, with a cover the heat is kept in. Does that mean that I can expect to drop the heat of the build platform (currently 120c) and extruder  heads (currently 225c) and see better results?

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/s8OJY-g-ehIJ.

[drando...@gmail.com]

I'm in the bay area as well and it goes from cold to hot faster than an extruder head on build. :) Sorry for the bad Makerbot joke.

[drando...@gmail.com]

It's been a busy day packing up kits for everyone.
If you ordered one it will be in the mail Tuesday. (Memorial Day weekend and all)
If you haven't I still have some left and if you order one before Monday it will also go out on Tuesday.

BTW Don't worry about me running out I can usually get the parts and do the cutting in under a week and I'll let you know if I have one ready to ship or if it will take a few days before you order.

(My kitchen is filling up fast)
http://img.ly/iG7T

[John Yang]

what are the steady state chamber temps reached with the hoods?
Anyone drop a thermocouple or a thermistor or old school thermometer
in the chamber with the enclosures and measured temps in the middle of
a long build? just wondering if the chamber just stays steady at
something like 50-60C or if it is closer to 80-100C with these kits.
Also I was wondering if anyone noticed higher current draw or high
current cutouts or skipping on the steppers when run within these
enclosures. Just wondering what the temps are and what they mean for
machine performance. Just wondering if these enclosures push the
environment such that the motors are being run beyond the spec in the
datasheet. I tried to find the datasheets for the steppers on the
makerbot support site, but couldn't find them.

Thanks
John

> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MakerBot Operators" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit

> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/lcfO0A8czwwJ.

[66tbird]

In my 40-45c ambient environment my internal temps are low 50-ish. I do not cover the front, just the sides and top. I did incorporate a small vent door in the top so the extruder fans aren't  recycling hot air and I'm also thinking it may help draw more cool intake air over the main-board. But honestly I haven't check the the main board airflow setup yet.  Another thing I did do, and it was the first thing, was a cover for the spools to keep dust out. The top cover was an after thought really just to keep it dust free long term.  My covers were cnc cut from DOW  1/2' blue foam and painted. Cheap, light weight, and I need something different it's a quick fix.

I've not notice any of my cnc machines using any more current as the stepper motors get hot. I've got a Phratprint that has aftermarket nema-23's for steppers and my Y--axis gets hot enough to fry an egg after a hour of high relief carving, yet my board monitor denotes nothing unusual, and that machine uses the same psu.

> makerbot+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

[jmkdouglas]

Has anyone had any issues with the internal components overheating when the makerbot is enclosed? I had a similar idea, and prototyped an enclosure with paper on the sides, and a plastic tub as the lid. The stepper motors on the X and Y axis get quite hot, and the inactive extruder fan runs full time, leading me to believe that it is getting much hotter than when the sides are open.

Although it's not the same exact motor, this site has operating temperatures for NEMA 17 motors: http://sine.ni.com/ds/app/doc/p/id/ds-311/lang/en .  The upper limit for operating temperature is 40*C, and the internal temp when I did my test got to about 45*C.

Shortly after the test, the right extruder (the one in use) failed. It did run for a while after the test, so it could be unrelated. I haven't pulled it apart to see what went wrong (the left extruder is about through another whole roll of filament since then).

I have been running a HBP temperature of 110 and an extruder temp of 230.

[andrewupandabout]

@jmkdouglas, and some others.

I've have a partial enclosure and things are super good. All prints are set to 223 on the extruders and 118 on the build platform. (I have the new platform from MakerBot now.)

If anyone wants to see my enclosure I just made up a video on it.

Andrew

Plexiglas idea for Replicator:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33jfRYFuxA8&feature=plcp 

[drando...@gmail.com]

I tried out the clips to hold the side panels in and they look much better the nuts and bolts. http://i.imgur.com/2byzy.jpg

[Doug Wire]

i just finished the duel extruder calibration with the full enclosure.
My ambient temperature is about 23C and by the end of the print it was
about 35c. Bed temp was 100 and both extruders were at 220. The
extruder fans were hauling, but the print turned out beautifully with
one exception. A small amount of filament was pushed out while each
extruder head was idle, this "noodle" disconnected when the head
became active on the object again leaving me with lots of little curls
and a messy extruder head. I'll have to do a little research and see
what I can do about it.

On May 25, 11:03 am, jmkdouglas <jmkdoug...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Has anyone had any issues with the internal components overheating when the
> makerbot is enclosed? I had a similar idea, and prototyped an enclosure
> with paper on the sides, and a plastic tub as the lid. The stepper motors
> on the X and Y axis get quite hot, and the inactive extruder fan runs full
> time, leading me to believe that it is getting much hotter than when the
> sides are open.
>
> Although it's not the same exact motor, this site has operating

> temperatures for NEMA 17 motors:http://sine.ni.com/ds/app/doc/p/id/ds-311/lang/en.  The upper limit for

[bagelturf]

I'd love to know what the solution to the oozing other extruder is. Even a tiny amount of plastic can wreck the appearance of a print if the colors are contrasting.

[drando...@gmail.com]

Check out this nice video and article on printing tips these guys made. I found it very helpful. Sadly I have yet to find a solution for the extrusion extras.
I would imagine it would be nice if there was a way to introduce a 1 step reverse after each stop command in the g-code. However that seems like it might create a glob at the start of the next line.

http://pixil.info/tutorial/makerbot-printing-tips/

[Greg Thorstad]

I think there is a minor glitch in skeinforge that is forgetting to do that reversal when there is an extruder change.  It is quite possible to do that reversal when an extruder is done printing and then move forward again when it becomes active.   The extruder is doing this hundreds of times per print now.   Makerbot is aware of the problem and I am suspicious that it will be cured in the next release of ReplicatorG.   Printing in the enclosure probably makes the problem worse because the ambient temperature is higher and the plastic is more inclined to seep out and stick to another part of the print.

 

 

Greg Thorstad, B. Comm.
Thorstad Computer/Thor3d.ca/Canadian Makerbot Distributor
Box 268
Outlook, SK
S0L 2N0
306 867-9596

----- Original Message -----

From: da...@avidquestion.com

To: make...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 12:35 PM

Subject: [MakerBot] Re: Replicator Hood and Panels

Check out this nice video and article on printing tips these guys made. I found it very helpful. Sadly I have yet to find a solution for the extrusion extras.
I would imagine it would be nice if there was a way to introduce a 1 step reverse after each stop command in the g-code. However that seems like it might create a glob at the start of the next line.

http://pixil.info/tutorial/makerbot-printing-tips/

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/JHSGHH4XjhAJ.

To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.

[drando...@gmail.com]

The orders have been pouring in for the kits, thank you everyone. I'm now ordering acrylic and hardware in bulk to keep up and make sure nobody has to wait. People have begun to start receiving them and its been great hearing that they are happy.

I'm still playing with temperature control inside the chamber and I mounted a nice digital thermometer and I've been monitoring things inside the chamber. I've seeing between 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit increase which is about what I think will work the best. I'm taking the measurements from the top of the HBP armature to try to get the sweet spot. 

I'm wondering what everyone else thinks about 10+ degree increase. Has anybody else been doing test like this to see what the ideal chamber temperature should be? Or am I the only one so anal retentive as even think of that much micro-control?

[Martin Galese]

I haven't mounted any sort of fan or thermometer, but I just assembled my kit and I'm thrilled with the improvement.

I've been trying to print thin, flat objects that are nearly the size of the HBP.  Obviously, I've been having warping issues.  Well, not any more.  I just finished printing one with the HBP at 110 that is perfectly flat!  Very exciting.  I hope to try some larger objects soon and see if this helps with the layer separation -- but the lack of warping is worth it alone!  

And as a side benefit, the panels cut down on the already low levels of noise very substantially, which I find to be a big plus since this is in my home office.

BTW, that is a really cool organizer by the side of your machine -- is that your design?  Any chance you're going to make that available as a kit too :) ?

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/PRc6xaR1VNcJ.

To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.

--
Martin Galese

[dragonkellman]

Got my kit yesterday and assembly was easy.  The build chamber is now nice and toasty.  Now I can print without warping while keeping my ceiling fan running (it's hot in SoCal).

[Sean Tu]

Just wondering if anyone has asked MBI what their opinion on the stepper motors in a sealed box and heat soaking them on a long print?

Looking at the spec sheet, the normal operating temp for a Nema17 is -20C to 40C (~104F.) A few months ago I measured the temps and found I was running 100-115F between the 4 motors. 

As its gotten warmer since then, I've been a little concerned about the extruder motor in my ToM, with sealed sides but an open top and a slot at the bottom of the front to let the HBP stick out when at y-max, as it's getting to 120F.

[Gary Crowell]

Interesting thought, especially since the electronics underneath essentially sucks air in from the build area (I think).  Might need to rethink the airflow arrangement there.

Gary

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.

--
----------------------------------------------
Gary A. Crowell Sr., P.E., CID+

Linkedin  Elance  KE7FIZ

[drando...@gmail.com]

My understanding is the 40 C is the ambient operating conditions not the temp of the motor housing which is a whole different reading. I don't think I've ever seen specs for that but I've seen steeper housing get extremely hot depending on sizes. I was worried more about the belt temp operating conditions and they were 50c . So far the air temps I've been getting in the chamber have been in the 30-35 range. I would love to hear what MBI has to say about chamber temp max about their extruded components. I imagine flexing might be an issue if it gets too hot.

[Shawn]

I've been thinking about just drilling some holes into the wood near the
motherboard fan. I'd think that would improve air flow, and maybe
lessen the noise a little. (hard to judge on the noise thing - my
motherboard fan needs to be replaced - bad bearings on it, but still
works after a short growling period)

[Martin Galese]

Not to derail a question I'm also quite curious about, but I'm having similar problems with fan bearings, both for my motherboard fan and one of my extruders.  I was surprised how quickly they're failing -- is this impacting other people?

makerbot+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.
To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.

--
Martin Galese

[Gary Crowell]

My motherboard fan isn't as quiet as it should be when it starts up; not a problem now, but I don't think it will last long.  (I looked, they are 24V fans - one company I know runs 12V fans at 40V.)  Drilling holes for the fan sounds like a good idea - would have been so much easier and neater if a fan grid had been laser cut originally.  You'd have to block the corner holes so that the air from underneath doesn't flow into the build chamber. 

Gary

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.

For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.

--

[drando...@gmail.com]

I wouldn't think the motherboard needs additional air flow.

On the underside its completely open on one side and vents out the bottom.
If anything you could put a 40mm fan on the left side between the legs to force air out from under it.

Also much like any computer I would make sure all the sides have good airflow underneath (Not in the chamber)

But I will say it does seem weird where they mounted the motherboard fan.
I can't see what the thought process was for airflow with it mounted on a non-vented wall.

I might play with this tonight and see if I can make a fan mount.

[66tbird]

I've been running my machine in a 44C ambient room(barn) and I've enclosed the top and sides. My non printing extruder(the one not turned on) sits at 58C during the heat of the day while the other is in use. I haven't taken an interferometer reading on my steppers yet because I've seen similar steppers run very hot and they just keep on going. The 23's on my mini mill will sizzle spit on a long run and I've put many years on that machine. So I'm not worried about a failure on those parts provided they are kept within their electrical specs.

The improvements of going enclosed were dramatic. Quieter was a nice one. No warping is another. I had a more uniform layering, but then again I have been tweaking filament diameter too. Just good solid parts in general and much better than I had been given examples of.

Another thing I did do was put a vent door in the top front to give the extruders a break on long prints. And covered the spools for dust contamination prevention

[drando...@gmail.com]

44C room temp?! I start complaining when it's hotter than 75F. I bow my hat to you good sir.

BTW I love that this thread has turn into all things temperature. It makes for a fascinating discussion.

[Sean Tu]

Hate to admit it since I brought up the temp thing but the conversation and knowledge transfer is good.

On Jun 1, 2012 3:19 PM, "da...@avidquestion.com" <drando...@gmail.com> wrote:

44C room temp?! I start complaining when it's hotter than 75F. I bow my hat to you good sir.

BTW I love that this thread has turn into all things temperature. It makes for a fascinating discussion.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/A8mBTqqgJJYJ.

[drando...@gmail.com]

So I took a shot at rethinking the airflow for the motherboard and made some replacement parts.
Basically it has 2 intake ports from the open bottom of the machine (one on each side) and then forces air over the motherboard to exhaust on the right side.
It also fixed a few little problems with the plate I found and added a second spot to mount another 40mm fan.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24066

Like I mentioned earlier it might be overkill but it gave me an excuse to use my laser cutter.

On Friday, June 1, 2012 12:15:55 PM UTC-7, Shawn wrote:

[Chris Crewdson]

I've had my Replicator for about a month and a half now and the fan bearings are going fast. 

I will need to replace the fan soon as the growling lasts for a good 20 seconds now.

[Shawn]

Mine is a minute or so when the replicator is powered on afer much more
than 5 minutes of being off. Tapping the box beside the fan helps jolt
it into behavior sometimes. But then it sounds normal (if a little loud
compared to typical computer fans) until I power it off again.

>>>>> makerbot+unsubscribe@**googlegroups.com<makerbot%2Bunsu...@googlegroups.com>
>>>>> .

>>>>> For more options, visit this group at

>>>>> http://groups.google.com/**group/makerbot?hl=en<http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en>
>>>>> .

>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>>> "MakerBot Operators" group.
>>> To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.

>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+unsubscribe@**
>>> googlegroups.com<makerbot%2Bunsu...@googlegroups.com>.
>>> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
>>> group/makerbot?hl=en<http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en>.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Martin Galese
>>
>

[Busybotz]

I can report the same thing on my Replicator. The extruder cooling fans are becoming increasingly noisy on start up.

[Andrew Mazzotta]

Yes. Had this problem the other day after 40-50 hours of printing so far.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/WivQLmbQJm0J.

To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.

[Martin Galese]

Interesting.  

It must be a bad batch of fans, because I don't see anything mechanically unusual about the way they're set up.  Has anyone discussed with Support? It's a pretty minor thing in the long run, but it'll be disconcerting for less technical users, I suspect.

--
Martin Galese

[66tbird]

I'm getting growling too on my mobo fan. Then last night the extruder fan started. I just have a feeling it's going to be one of those things that I'll have to have an extra on hand. Fans go out it's that simple. Cheap fan go out sooner is a well documented footnote.

[Jack Coats]

I have a box of small fans from old computers.  If someone wants them, I want a few $$ to pay parcel post, but they are free otherwise.

I have 5 fans of nominally 2.5x2.5" x 1.5" thick.  No, I didn't measure, I just went and looked at them.  They are from old Dell computers.

[joe...@gmail.com]

The bearings on lower cost axial fans (which almost all of the smaller ones are) are not designed for mechanical shock - I suspect the "bearings" are getting beat up by the extruder movement in the Replicators.  That said, some noise when cold is not necessarily a sign of impending immediate failure - and the noise goes away when they warm up.

---

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/qdbuaygBozAJ.

[Rob Giseburt]

The Replicator runs on 24V, not 12V like most PCs. If you plug a 12V fan from a PC into the Replicator motherboard, it will, at best destroy the fan, and at worst start a fire. Fire is unlikely, but not impossible.

Also, be super careful with the connections on the mighty. A short will blow the LDOs (power supply) immediately. 

  -Rob

On Jun 3, 2012, at 2:17 PM, Jack Coats <ja...@coats.org> wrote:

I have a box of small fans from old computers.  If someone wants them, I want a few $$ to pay parcel post, but they are free otherwise.

I have 5 fans of nominally 2.5x2.5" x 1.5" thick.  No, I didn't measure, I just went and looked at them.  They are from old Dell computers.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

[Gary Crowell]

One of the more popular CNC suppliers, Probotix, supplies their systems with 12V fans running off of 40V.  I don't think it's a good idea either, but they do it.

Gary

[Whosawhatsis]

Theoretically, you could attach 2 identical 12V fans (or even one fan and another load with the same resistance) in series to a 24V supply and it would work just fine.

Just sayin'.

[Whosawhatsis]

Most of these fans are brushless, which means they need an internal driver circuit. This circuit probably includes a regulator, so the issue would only be excess heat from the regulator dropping more voltage than it's meant to. Luckily, the fan is already being used to move excess heat away from the effected area.

[Gary Crowell]

There is another CNC supplier that does just that (series 12V fans off of 24) - seems to work for most fan types.

[Rob Giseburt]

I was playing with a 12V 80mm fan that turned out to be too tall, but after a minute I could smell the coils overheating and pulled it.

Some fans might tolerate 24V, but some obviously don't. 

  -Rob

[66tbird]

Great reminder post on the 12v-24v issue. It totally slipped by me. I guess one question is, and forgive that it's unrelated to hoods and panels, but are these 24v fans using a DC motor or a 3 phase with an on-board ESC with a 24vdc input?. I figure before I go any farther I'll price the replacement.

[drando...@gmail.com]

I found this guy on ebay which has a good fit fan replacement.
40mm fan x 10mm thick brushless 24v.
10 dollars isnt that bad and free shipping.

The only problem is that because the screw holes are not recessed you would need to get some new bolts.
Looking at the cad drawing and measuring whats in the stepstruder you would need M3x50mm socket bolts to use this fan.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180873759900?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

I also found a link to the exact fan they are using on the stepstruder.
http://www.fonsoning.com/en/html/2008_4_3/products.fonsoning.com_200843-167.asp
Model FSY40X24M

Looking at the specs this one is in Hong Kong but has free shipping to the states and is 4 dollars. It has the same bolt pattern as the one in the stepstruder.

Digikey also has some part# 381-2367-ND but $17 a piece. They also dont have the same bolt pattern as the original so you would still need 50mm M3 bolts.

Thats all the info I could dig up. Has anyone tried contacting MBI and seeing if they will just replace and or sell replacements?

[Shawn]

I mentioned the fan problem to MBI support when I was talking to them
about the warped platform. I thought I could easily replace the fan
with a cheap computer fan, so told them that I was only telling them for
QA purposes and didn't need a replacement. Stupid me - the fans I
bought are 12V, good thing I haven't tried them yet.

Long story short - I think MBI knows about the fans.

[drando...@gmail.com]

So I took your advice Martin and I made some kits for the organizer/Spool holder if you or anyone else is interested I'm selling them for $50 including shipping in the lower 48 states.

[etrohn]

I had to replace on my of my stepstruder fans. I accidentally put a
hex wrench through it and broke a few blades. I swapped out the
electronics fan so I could keep a matched pair on my two
stepstruders. I put the new fan underneath. I bought a fan from
here:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_1928281_-1

It didn't have the recessed holes for the screw heads, but it didn't
make a difference. The price was right and it arrived in 2 days.
Can't beat that.

[drando...@gmail.com]

A note about the 3mm Replicator Hood and panels.

I recently updated the files to move the bolt hole for the right side panel to the top center instead of the sides.

A few people noticed that on full size prints that the Y axis was hitting the bolt on the right side.

If you have/made the older version you can remove the front bolt. It's plenty stable without it.

Anyone that orders a kit starting today will get the updated right side panel.

If you are cutting your own check out the new files.

Also if you are using the clips from thingiverse this doesn't seem to be a problem at all.

I really want to stay on top of the whole hood/covers debate as everyone has been saying their prints have been getting much better and I love seeing people using/making/commenting on the design/kits.

(I hope I used enough "/" in that last sentence)

[drando...@gmail.com]

I have kits back in stock and ready to go if you are interested send me an e-mail at da...@avidquestion.com

[drando...@gmail.com]

I'm going to be moving soon and selling off my laser cutter so I'm changing the price of the hood kits to $125 with free shipping. After the ones I have left are gone they will be gone. Thankfully there is this thing called thingiverse and the files are all up there.

[Steven Castoe]

How much you want for that cutter?

On Jun 25, 2012 6:12 PM, "da...@avidquestion.com" <drando...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm going to be moving soon and selling off my laser cutter so I'm changing the price of the hood  kits to $125 with free shipping. After the ones I have left are gone they will be gone. Thankfully there is this thing called thingiverse and the files are all up there.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/kcptdPQO5V8J.

[drando...@gmail.com]

Sadly the laser cutter is already spoken for.

[AdanA]

Hi all, I feel compelled to write in with some feedback about this hood/panel kit: WOW! 

1.) Fast: I emailed my request Tuesday, had a tracking number before I knew it, and holy heck if it wasn't at my door an hour ago! 

2.) Nice: the parts are very nicely cut, fit well, still masked for scratch-freedom. Everything was tidily packed, with the hardware kit and a nice instructions page arranged on top.

Honestly, I hesitated to make this buy: I could surely have made an adequate hood myself and enjoyed the process. But not this fast, with so little distraction from my other activities, and I doubt I could have done much better than the price. 

I know these aren't going to be available much longer. If you're hesitating but considering it, I say make the jump. 

Adan

[drando...@gmail.com]

Thanks for the extremely kind review as a side note I will eventually be making more kits after the move and when my new cutter comes into the country (I have a bigger one coming 24x36" 80w) but that won't be till the end of July/ early august. I just didnt want people waiting to get theirs because I'm just as impatient when it comes to ordering things online so I've been trying to get them out ASAP. I'm just glad people are happy with them. Good luck and happy printing!

[Adan Akerman]

You're totally welcome. This transaction was a picture perfect example of how direct maker-to-user fab+sales can work. For sure, instant gratification is a big part of it!

Dang, that's gonna be a nice laser. Enjoy it.

I've got the hood assembled and on... looks lovely. I'm going to try the little clippy thingies (23636) for the sides. For the front, I think the MBI folks were maybe overzealous in tightening the M3 screws on my machine, but for some reason the 22mm M3 didn't stop at the non-threaded section (as I interpreted your instructions to suggest it would?) to create the hanger for the front panel. I wonder if maybe using an unthreaded spacer, like McMaster-Carr 93657A203, might make that a more certain thing? You'd probably have to increase the keyhole width just a hair... not sure.

Anyway, I decided to use a pair of magnets, adhering one over each keyhole, and it works great: Just snaps in place and holds itself on the face.

Okay! Thanks again, and you're definitely welcome,

Adan

On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 9:44 PM, da...@avidquestion.com <drando...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks for the extremely kind review as a side note I will eventually be making more kits after the move and when my new cutter comes into the country (I have a bigger one coming 24x36" 80w) but that won't be till the end of July/ early august. I just didnt want people waiting to get theirs because I'm just as impatient when it comes to ordering things online so I've been trying to get them out ASAP. I'm just glad people are happy with them. Good luck and happy printing!

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/f0L5n3RPzDwJ.

[AKron]

I received my hood in the mail yesterday, which was a surprise. Also,
my order to McMaster Carr arrived with the hardware, as well.
Somewhere along the line I must have missed the part where hardware is
included!
Oh well, now I have to make more things to use the screws up. The hood
is so nice I'm afraid to touch it.
Great job, and thanks David for a great hood!

[Gary Crowell]

I just posted Thingiverse thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26013  Replicator Hood clips.

These clips (for Dave's hood) slip into the gaps between the sloped front piece and the top & front of the hood.  They eliminate the slight sag of the sloped piece and significantly improve the rigidity of the hood.  They also have an extra couple of slots that can be used to hold the front cover when it is removed.  

Gary

[Adan Akerman]

Oh, that's great. I too love the hood but as with all things there's room for optimization.

What method did you choose for attaching the side windows? 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

[drando...@gmail.com]

I love those clips Gary! They look great ! Nice touch holding the front panel. I just made a set myself.

To answer the question about holding the side panels on. I love these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23636
They work great and are much more eye pleasing than nuts and bolts.

Earlier I saw a question about the nuts and bolts sliding thru on the front and making it a little bit difficult to hang the front on.
Originally I expected people to just put an additional nut on the front to keep them in place.
While a sleeve would help and I did some test I kept finding out without drilling out the hole and going with a bigger bolt that I couldn't find any options that would still hold it in place.
However on my personal Replicator I used M5 bolts and they self tap in the holes on the front. This made a nice tight fit with no wobble in the hangers.

[Adan Akerman]

The panel-steadying clips are outstanding. The front panel holding feature is just right. Thanks, Gary.

David, I liked those little spinny clips (23636) for the right side... they seem to work ok there. But with the left side hole locations they don't seem to have the same relationship to gravity and tend to spin away and fall out, letting the panel go a-clattering. It seems like there's a possibility of a simple mod that would help make it right. Maybe a detent nubbin to hold the clip in alignment with the notch that joins the hole to the outside perimeter?

I can see how an M5 there would do a nice job of making a tight fit in that hole. Good call. I'm still happy with my magnets, though!

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/6cGy8NEDN5AJ.

[Jack Coats]

Has anyone seen any 'cool covers' for a Mendel? Any references would
be appreciated.

[drando...@gmail.com]

Good news everyone!

I have moved my lab and I'm back up and running.
If your interested check it out here. http://360.io/rq4EsD

Which means I now have 10 more kits ready to ship.
I'm going to keep the same price of $125 because the Acrylic place where I've been buying my materials cut me a discount today because of my repeat business.
So if you're interested send me an email david (at) avidquestion.com and I'll get one out to you.

[Adan Akerman]

Sweet lab, man. Very nice setup!

I've gotten lots of compliments on my snazzy hood. Thanks again for the nice work and good service.

Adan

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/U_EeHNVbTewJ.

[Martin Galese]

Thanks Professor Farnsworth ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D1cap6yETA ),

But seriously--the kit I got from you has absolutely brought my Replicator to the next level and dramatically reduced the number of failed or warped prints.  It will probably pay for itself is saved plastic, to say nothing of the curse jar!

Thanks so much,

On Sat, Jul 7, 2012 at 10:50 PM, da...@avidquestion.com <drando...@gmail.com> wrote:

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/U_EeHNVbTewJ.

To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.

--
Martin Galese

[Gary Crowell]

Ditto.  Completely eliminated cracking.  A must-have for effective Replicator use.  And, it looks great.  I'm taking my Rep to a meetup next weekend and I'm sure the hood will get as much attention as the Replicator.

But seriously--the kit I got from you has absolutely brought my Replicator to the next level and dramatically reduced the number of failed or warped prints.  It will probably pay for itself is saved plastic, to say nothing of the curse jar!

Gary

 

--

[Chip Turner]

Another ditto.  Got it yesterday and have been cranking out prints that would have been twisted and worthless before.  Very, very nice work, thanks David!

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.

--
Chip Turner - ctu...@pattern.net

[drando...@gmail.com]

Aww shucks everyone :) You're making me blush. Glad you all are happy with them. Now if I had about 30 more designs to sell then I could quit my day job and become a full time maker.

[Lost Soul]

On Monday, July 9, 2012 4:41:57 AM UTC-4, da...@avidquestion.com wrote:

Aww shucks everyone :) You're making me blush. Glad you all are happy with them. Now if I had about 30 more designs to sell then I could quit my day job and become a full time maker.

 

 

I know I’m late to the party, but I ordered my set on a Friday, received them on Monday (well, they were delivered on Monday after I left for the day, but…) I installed them on Wednesday and could print so much better! I still have some tweaking to do, but this kit makes everything so much better!

 

Thanks David!

Dave

[drando...@gmail.com]

I can't remember Dave if you were the Dave locally or somewhere else but if you are in the bay area and plan on attending the meetup at techshop.
https://groups.google.com/d/topic/makerbot/SCmy6Rnhsv8/discussion

Let me know which part you cracked and I can hand deliver it to you.

I've had you plus one other mention that they cracked a piece putting it together and for people that purchased a kit from me I've been doing $10 per part and $15 for shipping ((yes I'll combine shipping but if you cracked more than one part you should really ease up on the muscle juice)) but if you or anyone else is in the bay area and plans to attends the event let me know and I'll bring the parts with me so we don't have to deal with shipping.

I plan to go just for fun and to meet the other makers, that and I like TechShop. They have great toys!

[Jetty]

Superb product. David shipped it within minutes of me placing the
order. It arrived on time, in good condition, and
assembly was a dream.

Looks sweet and prints are much better for it.

[Lost Soul]

I'm in a bay area, too bad it's Narragansett Bay ;). I have a very minor crack in the back of the hood, I'm not worried about replacing it yet, if ever. If the crack starts to spread, I’ll try and drill a small hole to stop it. If that doesn’t work I’ll replace it. I’m not sure why that one cracked, I didn’t think I tightened it any more than the ones I did before.

Thanks,
Dave

[drando...@gmail.com]

Hello everyone the response has been great! So thank you everyone who ordered the kit. However I now have a favor to ask of the community.
Right now I am set up to build and ship over 100 units a week but I'm not coming close to that at all. (which is fine)
Which is why everyone has seen their orders usually ship out same day (and in some cases same hour)

I've really enjoyed developing this kit and evolving it as it goes and making sure that it includes everything needed but my favorite thing has been seeing people making improvements and releasing them.
Like the side panel clips made by etrohn http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23636 I include the hardware to install the sides but these clips make it look so much better.
and the hood support clips by garyacrowellsr http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26013 just beautiful with additional support and a nice holder for the front panel.

My goal is to turn my full time job into making kits like these and I'm curious on everyone's thoughts.
I've bitten the bullet and rented a giant workspace, gotten registered, no website though, built additional machines for manufacturing goods.

So my question is where have I succeeded and where have I failed?
What would you want to see changed?
Any suggestions to reach more repheads? (yes I just made all of you a new nickname)

Also as a side note I have finished the next batch of 10 kits and I'm ready to ship those. Feel free to contact me at da...@avidquestion.com

[Z LeHericy]

Would you consider making similar kits for older version makerbots? (Cupcake and TOM)
-Zeno LeHericy

//((=:Z:=))\\
INVENTIONS
Technologies
zinventions.com

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/1XcSoH2vgiAJ.

[drando...@gmail.com]

Not a bad idea to make hoods for ToM and cupcake. The only problem I have is the filament mounting. There is a ton of different ones. So I would need to figure out if people prefer the top mount or bottom mount options.

[Owen M Collins]

there is the Spool mount that is pretty common: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7105

For Cupcakes it can really only mount on the side opposite of the electronics, that still leaves two places. For the TOM, I guess it is the tops or the sides? I don't know.



O

On Jul 12, 2012, at 12:56 PM, da...@avidquestion.com wrote:

> Not a bad idea to make hoods for ToM and cupcake. The only problem I have is the filament mounting. There is a ton of different ones. So I would need to figure out if people prefer the top mount or bottom mount options.
>

> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/YoCNFBxaRZ0J.

[drando...@gmail.com]

So as a side note I just made a derivative of the side clips by etrohn

All I did was add some little knobs to help it bite better and not slide around.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26715

It was asked for so I went ahead and did it up for everyone.

Also another really nice add on that was done was by garyacrowellsr is this really nice holder for a thermometer and humidity detector. I was at techshop last night showing off the replicator and parts and a lot of people really liked it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25564

 

[PropellerScience]

I think you've failed by not doing this sooner!
Good luck to you, but I have one of your kits, so I know you don't
need any luck.
Also, can you make me a Persue? They keep bumping back the ship date,
and I can't keep holding this car together forever waiting for them.
http://www.flytheroad.com/

[Steven Castoe]

failed... Persue....
What?

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

[Adan Akerman]

Dang, now I want a Persue! Hadn't seen those. I agree, that's entirely on-topic. Um. Well, if not, at least it's of interest :-)

I do agree with PropSci that your kits indicate a promising future for your endeavors. Just stay nimble, stay in touch with the market, you'll see the next kit as it becomes apparent, then the next/next/next. Your presentation was excellent; I remember pulling the contents out of the box and just taking a moment to look at your excellent packaging and appreciate the effort that had gone into it. Put that effort into everything you do and even the simplest whatnot will be appreciated by its recipient.

I think the psychology/marketing term is "sensational transference." It's the effect that makes the packaging alone help Apple make people feel good about their markup. My point is that you're already ahead of most makers-turned-businesspeople: we all tend to feel like making it is the end of the job, but you went the extra distance.

Thanks for the side clip upgrade, I'm printing them now with my freshly-installed 5.5 firmware, very exciting all around.

Adan

[drando...@gmail.com]

So I'm going to spend the weekend trying to design some good hood kits for the Cupcake and the Thing-O-Matic.
I've found two versions of the Thing-O-Matic external designs with the only real difference being the back panel is either open or it has a holder for a 115mm fan square.

I've found just one revision of the cupcake case.

Am I missing any that I should cover? (Pun intended)

In the photo is ToM with open back, the panel for the fan and then the cupcake on the right.

[Kenneth Bartlett]

FYI, it is the left side panel that is either open or containing the fan mount. The front and back panels have a flat edge across the top and the side panels have the tenons on top to mate with the top panel from underneath.  BTW, the left I refer to is the left side when facing the front of the machine.

-->Kenne†h E Bar†le††<--

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot/-/KFGQaCVBuxoJ.

[drando...@gmail.com]

The ToM hood/panels kit is done!
Check it out over at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26845

I started another thread so people won't get too confused.

Thanks again for all the advice and help.

[drando...@gmail.com]

I've got my next round of kits ready to ship for anyone still looking for one let me know.

[drando...@gmail.com]

Check out these awesome spacers made by Ben Fastrack
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27223

Very strong and a perfect fit for the front panel hangers.

[drando...@gmail.com]

If anyone is interested I'm making the next 10 sets of panels and I figured I would stream it on ustream so feel free to stop by for the next few hours and say hi, ask questions, basically keep me company.

http://ustre.am/12ZP