model really stuck, Help (whimper)

[Elbot]

I didn't even use abs slurry glue this time. It is a hello kitty head printed with a flat back that stuck to the platform, printed with no raft. Tried cooling it with ice, tried slipping a razor blade underneath (blade BROKE!), tried using a letter opener to pry it loose.... What else should I try?

Thanks in advance for your advice  :0)

Re-doing the kapton tape seems like a real pain the butt, so I hesitate peeling off the kapton tape to free the model, but... that's the only idea that I have left. I hope y'all have better ideas!

[Elbot]

I tried to pry it loose with a knife and not joy. I also just tried to twist it off with my hand. I gripped it so hard with my finger that a blood vessel broke and now I have an enormous hemorrhage (a big black bulb) on my finger. Ugh....

[Martin Galese]

Elbot,

Have you tried bringing the build plate back up to heat (using the preheat function) and see if it comes loose then?  I've had good luck with that--but you have to be careful not to touch the plate!

On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 9:28 AM, Elbot <tomas...@gmail.com> wrote:

I tried to pry it loose with a knife and not joy. I also just tried to twist it off with my hand. I gripped it so hard with my finger that a blood vessel broke and now I have an enormous hemorrhage (a big black bulb) on my finger. Ugh....

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[Elbot]

Finally got it off with a swiss army knife, the smallest flat blade. However, I scratched the build platform and ripped a big hole in the kaptan tape! Ugh! I think next time this happens, I'll just peel off the kaptan because any other method that will work here will also damage the kaptan tape.

Will the scratched platform make my future prints peel off and curl off the platform? Or will the kaptan tape prevent this? Will the scratch on the platform show up on my prints or will the kaptan prevent this?

[Elbot]

Ah, I see, basic physics. Plate and model are at different temperatures, one expands while the other is stationary. Thanks! I'll try that next time....

[PropellerScience]

It depends how deep the scratch is, but ya, it will show up most
likely. BTW: peeling the Kapton tape off never helped for me. When
it's stuck, it's stuck.

[Busybotz]

Here is something to try:

Let it cool to room temp. Reheat the platform, long enough to put some heat into the base of the print. Turn off the platform, and blow a big fan directly onto the HBP. Attempt removal as it cools, and ideally the parts will become easier to remove.This has worked for me a few times. Once it was a chess set that was stuck, and I did not want to risk breaking pieces. I used this method and they popped off easily.

[Shawn]

When the parts do not come off easily by hand (stuck, or just the
size/lack of grip) I'll extend my utility blade as far as it'll go, lay
it flat on the platform, then work it under a corner/side a little at a
time. (often with kind of a left/right rocking motion) With practice,
you rarely damage the Kapton. Often once a corner raises enough for the
blade, the part just pops off. Other times, you need to carefully work
at the part from many directions.

I've never tried the cooling techniques, other than letting the platform
cool to about 80 before trying to remove the part.

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[Cymon]

I find that under the right conditions th abs slurry actually helps prints come off.

Ever do the experiment with the wooden ruler under a sheet of newspaper (what's that?) and you smack the ruler off the end of a table and it breaks? Seems to me related. Big surface area prints stick more. The solution is slow, gentle pressure. First a corner, then an edge, etc.

The best tool I have is a pair of needlenosed pliers. Get a good grip and pill gently. But I have also had prints that forced me to replavr the tape. Good thing I have a huge roll of the stuff.

[Gary Crowell]

I'll reiterate here, I've had pretty good luck with (gasp) a hammer.  Not really a hammer but something massive but padded. like the handle of a large screwdriver.  I've done a lot of large, fairly solid objects and only broken a couple.  Learning where to smack it is part of the trick.  I believe that getting a clean quick break off the platform has less potential for damage to the platform than the bending I see from trying to pry it off.

Aside from that, I like the idea of the thermal approach too.  But, ice sounds a little messy, and a fan wouldn't give the really sharp thermal difference that I'd like.  Has anyone tried freeze spray?  I've got a can here but alas it's about empty and all I can get from it is a cool breeze. I've got a new can on order from Amazon: 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z99ZCA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=A2DZKVXLHFJWTT

Freez-It by Chemtronics is another brand.  If someone tries it before I do, be sure to not use one of the penetrating oil types of freeze sprays (like Locktite); the oil in those would make a mess.The electronics freeze sprays are used for trouble-shooting thermal problems in electronics and leave no residue.

Gary

----------------------------------------------
Gary A. Crowell Sr., P.E., CID+

Linkedin  Elance  KE7FIZ

[MacGyver]

I've had extremely good luck with my new Cricut spatula.  If it doesn't get far under the print I have a thin butter knife that will get the rest of the way under to pop prints off the platform.

[Herón Ordóñez Guillén]

I use a painter's spatula, and when the piece is delicate, I use it to raise a corner, then I take a piece of dental floss string and pass it through that space, pulling both ends until the piece is free.

El 05/08/2012, a las 12:44, MacGyver <bdwel...@gmail.com> escribió:

I've had extremely good luck with my new Cricut spatula.  If it doesn't get far under the print I have a thin butter knife that will get the rest of the way under to pop prints off the platform.

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[Laird Popkin]

A friend (Rik of The Learned Nerd local hackerspace) showed me a trick with wire cutters. Basically you use them to lightly grip a corner of a piece (not hard enough to cut into it), and then press down on the handle slightly to lever up the front of the wire cutters, lifting that corner. It's gentle so it's easy on the parts and the Kapton - I've had the same piece of Kapton for a dozen or perhaps two dozen prints, when I was replacing it fairly frequently before.

You'd think that wire cutters would cut up the plastic, but at least for me I can't see any cutting, whereas pliers were visibly scratching the plastic's surface. Counter-intuitive, but effective!

[Adan Akerman]

That sounds interesting... Would you be willing to post a pic to illustrate the grip and the specific type of wire cutters?

Thanks!

Adan

On Saturday, August 11, 2012, Laird Popkin wrote:

A friend (Rik of The Learned Nerd local hackerspace) showed me a trick with wire cutters. Basically you use them to lightly grip a corner of a piece (not hard enough to cut into it), and then press down on the handle slightly to lever up the front of the wire cutters, lifting that corner. It's gentle so it's easy on the parts and the Kapton - I've had the same piece of Kapton for a dozen or perhaps two dozen prints, when I was replacing it fairly frequently before.

You'd think that wire cutters would cut up the plastic, but at least for me I can't see any cutting, whereas pliers were visibly scratching the plastic's surface. Counter-intuitive, but effective!

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[Gary Crowell]

Got my freeze spray today, and had a very large - hard to remove print on the platform waiting when I got home from work.  Heated it up, blasted it with about 2 seconds of freeze, and it came right off; easy-pleezy.  I'd had a great deal of trouble removing that same print before.  Consider a can of freeze spray as a "must have" tool.

Gary

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[abellasr]

I have been using an "air duster" for years, I invert it, give the bottom of the print a quick blast and it comes right off.

[Luis E. Rodriguez]

So you are spraying the bottom of the part where it touches the build platform? Very cool.

Luis E. Rodriguez

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