running rigging stats

[Andy Sharp]

Can anyone tell me what length the halyards are for the classic J92?

[Andrew Oeftering]

Andy,

Below is my order for halyards placed with Mauri Pro Sailing in the spring
of '09. I actually purchased 97 feet and did my own splicing. Pick your
poison regarding specific line, but these lengths worked out quite well.
Later I added a 16 inch bulk splice centered at rope clutch for the main
halyard for extra grip. This is a very difficult splice. Annapolis
Performance Sailing will do it for you and the price is worth it. I paid
dearly as a retrofit. The minimum diameter main halyard will slip in the
clutch otherwise. Then there's always the cam-cleat-behind-the-winches
option for extra hold. But my instrument layout isn't conducive to that
solution.

Please find prices and specs below:

-) Racing Main Halyard (5/16" x 95' (38' uncovered) Vectran with Tylaska H-5
shackle: $324.75

-) Racing Jib Halyard 5/16" x 95' (40' uncovered) Vectran with Tylaska T-5
snap shackle and stopper ball: $347.90

-) Racing Spinnaker Halyard 5/16" x 95' (38' uncovered) Dyneema with Tylaska
T-5 snap shackle and stopper ball: $349.92

Andy Oeftering
Computer Troubleshooters
Red Bank - Eatontown - Tinton Falls, NJ
732-212-1001

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[Ragtime!]

In Andy O's post, the jib halyard sounds a little long but the others are about right.  To save money I usually get line here:

 http://www.hallspars.com/cart/index.php?route=product/category&path=282_295

 

... then take it to my local West Marine rig shop for the stripping and splices.  I race against those guys so that's always a fun trip.

 

Hall may not have what you need right now but keep checking - the list gets updated often.  Find a long enough chunk of V-100, Crystaline or Validator for main and jib and Bob's your uncle.  Endurabraid or Warpspeed (ie not Vectran) for the spinny so it has a bit more give.

 

 

I'm Scottish and a CPA - I NEVER pay retail.

 

[Andrew Oeftering]

I've used Crystaline in the past and don't like the cover. Skinny and
stiff and doesn't clutch well. BTW.. I'm Scottish which explains my
uncontrollable fits of anger. ; - )

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[Andrew Oeftering]

Hi all,

 

I was reviewing my notes on the halyards.  I’ve got two jib halyards and they’re long to accommodate an MOB retrieval.

 

Andy Oeftering
Computer Troubleshooters
Red Bank - Eatontown - Tinton Falls, NJ
732-212-1001

Learn About Our 100% Uptime Guarantee
http://www.ctsredbank.com

Ranked #1 Computer Service Network - Entrepreneur Magazine

 

--

[Jon]

I run 40' per side for the jib sheets and it seems to be enough.

[Andy Sharp]

I took your advice Bob and got a deal from Halls. The problem is that
these seem awlful thin. I think my original wire to rope lines were
7/16. I got 5/16. I still have the original antal clutches. Do you
think they will hold 5/16 line?

Andy S.

On Apr 3, 12:20 am, Ragtime! <Bobsail...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > In Andy O's post, the jib halyard sounds a little long but the others are
> > about right.  To save money I usually get line here:
>

>  http://www.hallspars.com/cart/index.php?route=product/category&path=2...

>
> ... then take it to my local West Marine rig shop for the stripping and
> splices.  I race against those guys so that's always a fun trip.
>
> Hall may not have what you need right now but keep checking - the list gets
> updated often.  Find a long enough chunk of V-100, Crystaline or Validator
> for main and jib and Bob's your uncle.  Endurabraid or Warpspeed (ie not
> Vectran) for the spinny so it has a bit more give.
>
> I'm Scottish and a CPA - I NEVER pay retail.
>
>
>

> - Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[Ragtime!]

No, they'll probably slip. But depending on the type of line, 5/16"
should be adequate and will be lighter aloft, so there's nothing wrong
with using it. When you have the halyards made up, have the rigger
bulk up the line in the area where it will go through the clutches.
They'll add some extra material inside the cover and stitch it so it
won't slip. Then you have the best of both worlds - lightweight but
solid in the clutches.

[Ragtime!]

Quick add:

The stock Antal "V-Grip 10" clutches were designed for 10mm line,
which is about 3/8". I had a set of Crystaline upwind halyards that
were 9.5mm and although they didn't slip enough to see it in the
luffs, the line got little knuckles under the cover from slipping
slightly. My latest halyards are an honest 10mm and don't slip at
all.

I think your original halyards were 3/8" vs. 7/16". By the way, if
anyone wants a set of original wire-to-rope J/92 halyards, let me
know.


Yeah, I thought not . . .

[Joe Cooper]

No-5/16 is way too thin for original 7/16 clutches
 But if you put extra covers on them where they pass thru the clutch you ought to be good.
Have you collcted the halyards yet?
Is there a way for you to determine the position the halyard where the extra cover ought to be placed?
Or it is possible to have a local do it when the position is known.
Cheers
Coop

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[Andrew Oeftering]

To find the right spot, can you check your old halyard’s clutch wear spot??  The extra cover idea works great.  My 5/16 main halyard, in particular, was a slippery little bugger.  I had a local rigger put in a bulk splice about 18 inches in length (9 inches fore and aft of the clutch point).  That worked fine.  Important: You don’t want the bulk splice running into the winch drum on full hoist.  If to do it all over again, I’d work with Annapolis Performance Sailing which will add a bulk splice for 40 bone.  For the DIY’ers out there, I’m thinking the best approach is to get the extra cover INSIDE the existing cover.

 

Andy Oeftering
Computer Troubleshooters
Red Bank - Eatontown - Tinton Falls, NJ
732-212-1001

Learn About Our 100% Uptime Guarantee
http://www.ctsredbank.com

Ranked #1 Computer Service Network - Entrepreneur Magazine

 

[Ragtime!]

Just to beat this thread to death SA-style . . .

You want the extra bulk (for clutching) inside the cover and carefully
tapered, because it needs to slide through the mast slots when
dropping the sail. I'd have a pro do the work. But the measuring is
fun - either use the old halyard and put marks on it or run a
messenger line and mark that.

Soft halyard shackles are great if you can use them. The flat end you
twist (on a traditional shackle) will gouge up your mast when sailing
deep. I still have metal shackles on my halyards but soft shackles
just about everywhere else. I found some for $7.00 each on E-Bay,
made by a rigger in New Yawk. If interested I can find a link.

I have a flat, core-less stitched loop in the end of each halyard
(called a reeving splice) so it's easy to tie a messenger line to it
when you want to remove a halyard for inspection or maintenance. The
more hard-core locals in the J/105 and J/120 fleets remove all their
halyards after every race! I'm not that bad but I do run the stripped
ends of the Vectran halyards back inside the mast to protect them from
UV (even though they have Maxi-Jacket on them, it doesn't last).

If you don't have a local rig shop, APS is very good. You'll have to
see if they'll work on line they didn't sell you. Lots of riggers
around - I try to use the locals whenever possible. We're spoiled
that way with Scott Easom and Glenn Hansen (both riggers-to-the-stars)
but Ryan Nelson, Ronnie Simpson and Adam Correa at my local WM are the
bomb (I hope people still say that . . . "no Dad, they DON'T").

Okay, enough Bob . . .

[Lawrence Robinson]

I have used Annapolis Performance Sailing for new running rigging on my J92s Hull#60.  Working with them was an excellent customer experience, and I found them very knowledgeable and with direct experience rigging a J92/J92s.  They can give anyone excellent guidance and the ability to pull of any custom job you want.  Highly recommended based on my experience.

[Grizzly]

Lawrence can you pass on the name of the person who helped you at
APS? I called them and was told there isn't anyone there with
particular knowledge of the 92S.