Vacuum Forming

[Scott B]

Anyone done any vacuum forming? or better still have their own system up and running?

I need to make my crop dusting lights weather-proof, was originally going to print a case for them, but I'm thinking vacuum forming is going to be quicker and more 'water-proof'.

the youtube video's and indestructables make it look pretty simple.

[Ben Kramer]

Depending on the size of the object and the thickness of the plastic, you dont need a vacuum.

Trying to remember how I did it back in the 80's for a high school design project. I remember using a positive mold, the home oven and plastic from mens ware shirt boxes! The exact method escapes me!

Cheers,

Ben.

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[Paul Schulz]

Crop dusting?

On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 11:21 AM, Scott B <solar....@gmail.com> wrote:

[Peter Wintulich]

I have a friend up Holden Hill way with the tools.

He runs a business from home, and may be able to help.

Alex
A D Orthopaedics
8261 0729

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[Ken]

Don't those lights get hot?

[Scott B]

Peter, you should change your signature to 'oracle of knowledge'

I'll give him a try.

City plastic have the material available (high impact polystyrene)  from about $5 a sheet (1370 x 760mm)

I might still need to print the 3D mould, then take a casting with something a bit more heat resistant.

[Scott B]

They are effectively garden solar lights on steroids - used to help with navigation and orientation for crop dusting at night - which sounds like a good job option for those pilots that think something like cattle mustering in a R22 is just too safe and boring!

On Wednesday, August 15, 2012 11:29:35 AM UTC+9:30, Paul Schulz wrote:

Crop dusting?

[Scott B]

Had my first go at Vac forming over the weekend - with a very quickly knocked up wooden box (total cost about $4). Initial results using the oven to soften the plastic were a little disappointing (and did not impress the wife!), attempt #2 went much better - using a hot air gun (outside this time). Though I soon learnt that getting a good result is all about getting a good seal - initially I thought I just wasn't getting it hot enough - in the end I think I was over heating the plastic which made it very brittle once formed.

Version 2 of the Vacuum box will hopefully begin construction this weekend - using what I have learnt from the first box.

[Jamie Mackenzie]

Hey Scott, cool project and good to hear you're making progress.

It was something I was a little interested in at one point.  Have you seen this:  http://www.volpinprops.com/protoform-vacuum-forming-machine/ 

Might be some tips in there that are useful.

On 25 September 2012 14:31, Scott B <solar....@gmail.com> wrote:

Had my first go at Vac forming over the weekend - with a very quickly knocked up wooden box (total cost about $4). Initial results using the oven to soften the plastic were a little disappointing (and did not impress the wife!), attempt #2 went much better - using a hot air gun (outside this time). Though I soon learnt that getting a good result is all about getting a good seal - initially I thought I just wasn't getting it hot enough - in the end I think I was over heating the plastic which made it very brittle once formed.

Version 2 of the Vacuum box will hopefully begin construction this weekend - using what I have learnt from the first box.

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[Scott B]

that is pretty full on compared with mine... I'll have a good read through later though to see if I can pinch any ideas or tips.

My version 2 is simply a flange that clips on the top of my backpack vac cleaner with a perforated floor, the mould drops inside, then a sheet of plastic is put across the flange with some bulldog clips to hold it in place (I was using a staple gun, but they are a PITA to remove) - hit it with the hot air gun for a couple seconds, then turn on the Vac.

[Scott B]

[Fee Plumley]

sounds interesting, Scott!
you should bring this to the mini maker faire ;)

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[Matt Z]

Hi all, this is my first post on the HS Adel group. I've come into a couple of Wednesday night hack sessions recently and met a few of you. I thought i'd share a vid of my CNC router cutting a former for Scotts LED disc project...

The final product isn't great. Theres a lot of fuzz. It's a pretty rough bit of timber (its actually an offcut of a new facia we put up on the house) I plan to try to cut one in MDF too. Still, I doubt it will affect the final vacuum formed part.

http://youtu.be/xDS-x78p5e4

and a pic....

Enjoy

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[Scott B]

Matt, my V2 vac former is ahead of schedule (should be complete tonight!), and I have made it big enough to make 2 parts at a time, I'll get you some proper dimensions before you make the MDF one perhaps - as if we design it right it will just drop in place and not need any fillers.

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[Scott B]

V2.0 box - mounted directly on top of the Vacuum:

platen in place - it sits on spacers so that it can be set to a suitable depth.

Some formed 0.25mm sheet - this one punctured so did not form completely, the black 1.0mm works much better, but is hard to photograph. I formed a piece over a PCB and you can actually see the indents of the 1oz copper tracks!

On Wednesday, September 26, 2012 3:38:30 PM UTC+9:30, MattyZee wrote:

Sure. Send the file through when its ready. I should be able to cut it tomorrow night.

 

[Scott B]

Matt, I'll send you through the file for a single part - but if you can run it twice to make up a part as per below (or two individual parts) that would be great.

My current box will fit ~225 x 112.5mm - so probably the easiest way to do it is to ignore the outside cut and just cut out the two concave bits with a 112.5mm offset between them, I can then rough the block down with a saw as required till it drops in the box.

[Matt Ziebarth]

That looks like some really good progress! So did you go back to oven heating or was that done with the heat gun again?

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[Scott B]

Still doing it with the heat gun, seems to be the way to go with small parts.

I just keep poking it with my finger as I'm heating it, once it feels soft I hit the go button on the vac, if any sections don't quite form I continue to heat them, once I'm happy I remove the heat, wait a few seconds then remove the suction.

For bigger parts a hot plate of some form will probably give more consistent results.

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[Matt Z]

The former looks much better in MDF. Still has a tiny bit of fuzz, but
that could be fixed using a clear coat.

[Andrew Helgeson]

I dont know if it will work with MDF, but if you use a buff on your mould it will seal the grain, make it shiny and you get better results.
Same goes for plug and ring moulds.

Andrew

On 27/09/2012 8:01 PM, "Matt Z" <mzie...@gmail.com> wrote:

The former looks much better in MDF. Still has a tiny bit of fuzz, but that could be fixed using a clear coat.

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