Today was a perfect cost/benefit ratio. Easy paddle, light offshores,
plenty of juicy waves in the 8-12' range, sunny, uncrowded. The only
addition to Dave's report I would add is that at the peak we were at, we
were the only two people there for 2 hours of solid surf. These are the
days that ramp up confidence and stoke for the bigger days to come.
Keep surfing no matter what.
Jeff
ski...@blakestah.com wrote:
> Met up at 6:30 with kdalle and some other regular crew
> members. It was smaller than yesterday, but occasionally
> sets were coming through with juice. The paddle-out would
> not be uncertain today, and it was smaller. I took the minigun.
>
> All of us (and I think everyone else) made the paddle,
> but it took a little time. Once out, the sparse sets began
> to show their juice. 20 second period sets rolled in from
> the horizon every 10 minutes or so, and the A-frame
> nature of their breaking was unparalleled for this beach. Put
> simply, it doesn't ever peel better than this. And it was larger
> than it looked from the beach - I am thinking 12 foot ish, but
> you can see the vid and check for yourself.
>
> My first drop I lost it, and got pounded. Then, pounded again.
> And again. And again. And again. I was thinking about how
> tired I was, and how it wouldn't really be bad to leave right
> now.
>
> I got back out. Kdalle was making up for yesterday's lost time -
> I think he had three waves already on his 8'6". My first wave was
> a lined up left. It peeled and peeled and peeled, with reasonably
> steep face.
>
> Then, the sun came up. The offshore winds were creating veils over
> the tops of the waves, and we wished we had a camera. Yellow/red
> sky, big misting veils off waves, and lines to the horizon.
>
> I then grabbed my last wave. I took off late/deep, and turned in.
> The lip began to pitch in front of me, and I tucked under. I just
> cleared the closeout section with the largest coverup of my life.
> I turned down the face as the rest of this section of the wave
> collapsed. I rode it in, and grabbed the camera. Hopefully,
> I will get a short video up later.
>
> One other thing. I called Fly® on my cell phone to let him
> know how good it was. He had turned his phone off.
>
> -PA
Nice video. Up here we'd call that about 2 foot.
> My first drop I lost it, and got pounded. Then, pounded again.
> And again. And again. And again. I was thinking about how
> tired I was, and how it wouldn't really be bad to leave right
> now.
Never go in w/o a wave under your belt.
> I got back out. Kdalle was making up for yesterday's lost time -
> I think he had three waves already on his 8'6".
How much does this guy weigh? 300 pds?
> My first wave was
> a lined up left. It peeled and peeled and peeled, with reasonably
> steep face.
>
> Then, the sun came up. The offshore winds were creating veils over
> the tops of the waves, and we wished we had a camera. Yellow/red
> sky, big misting veils off waves, and lines to the horizon.
Yea, the video sure looked nice. Wish I has some of that today.
> I then grabbed my last wave. I took off late/deep, and turned in.
> The lip began to pitch in front of me, and I tucked under. I just
> cleared the closeout section with the largest coverup of my life.
> I turned down the face as the rest of this section of the wave
> collapsed. I rode it in, and grabbed the camera. Hopefully,
> I will get a short video up later.
>
> One other thing. I called Fly® on my cell phone to let him
> know how good it was. He had turned his phone off.
Let me let you in on a little secret... At most breaks up here
there is no cell phone service. I was at westport getting skunked.
Surf was jumbled up and not as big as hoped for...
Flek, take notice. When Dave calls me on my cell phone,
he leaves a msg.
Yea, nice log. very artsy...
Looks like you owe me some scotch, bitch.
"superfly®" wrote:
> <ski...@blakestah.com> wrote
> > Met up at 6:30 with kdalle and some other regular crew
> > members. It was smaller than yesterday, but occasionally
> > sets were coming through with juice. The paddle-out would
> > not be uncertain today, and it was smaller. I took the minigun.
> >
> > All of us (and I think everyone else) made the paddle,
> > but it took a little time. Once out, the sparse sets began
> > to show their juice. 20 second period sets rolled in from
> > the horizon every 10 minutes or so, and the A-frame
> > nature of their breaking was unparalleled for this beach. Put
> > simply, it doesn't ever peel better than this. And it was larger
> > than it looked from the beach - I am thinking 12 foot ish, but
> > you can see the vid and check for yourself.
>
> Nice video. Up here we'd call that about 2 foot.
Wassamatta, your 0 key broken? Although according to Driftcoast, you do
have a 1" pud.
>
> > My first drop I lost it, and got pounded. Then, pounded again.
> > And again. And again. And again. I was thinking about how
> > tired I was, and how it wouldn't really be bad to leave right
> > now.
>
> Never go in w/o a wave under your belt.
>
> > I got back out. Kdalle was making up for yesterday's lost time -
> > I think he had three waves already on his 8'6".
>
> How much does this guy weigh? 300 pds?
What the hell is pds? Better go back for your GED. Maybe then some
company would be willing to hire you full-time.
>
> > My first wave was
> > a lined up left. It peeled and peeled and peeled, with reasonably
> > steep face.
> >
> > Then, the sun came up. The offshore winds were creating veils over
> > the tops of the waves, and we wished we had a camera. Yellow/red
> > sky, big misting veils off waves, and lines to the horizon.
>
> Yea, the video sure looked nice. Wish I has some of that today.
I told you I give you the report from the lot. PAY ATTENTION!
>
> > I then grabbed my last wave. I took off late/deep, and turned in.
> > The lip began to pitch in front of me, and I tucked under. I just
> > cleared the closeout section with the largest coverup of my life.
> > I turned down the face as the rest of this section of the wave
> > collapsed. I rode it in, and grabbed the camera. Hopefully,
> > I will get a short video up later.
> >
> > One other thing. I called Fly® on my cell phone to let him
> > know how good it was. He had turned his phone off.
>
> Let me let you in on a little secret... At most breaks up here
> there is no cell phone service.
The technology hasn't gotten that far north, eh. Do you also need the
recipe for ice cubes?
"superflyŽ" wrote:
> <ski...@blakestah.com> wrote
> > http://www.keck.ucsf.edu/~dblake/obnov212002.wmv
> >
> > One minute, 2.4 MBytes, sound by Dead Milkmen
> > (Really three waves, one blank A-frame, and a log)
>
> Yea, nice log. very artsy...
Proof that surfing keeps you regular. The culprit must've weighed like,
300...LBS.
kdalle
An 8'6" in that? You gotta be kidden me. I would of rode
my 7'2". Easily.
> The technology hasn't gotten that far north, eh. Do you also need the
> recipe for ice cubes?
You wouldn't last 5 minutes up here, boy. No cell phone service
at the surf breaks and you'd need a board at least 18feet
long to ride the shit we git here weekly...
"superflyŽ" wrote:
> You wouldn't last 5 minutes up here, boy. No cell phone service
> at the surf breaks and you'd need a board at least 18feet
> long to ride the shit we git here weekly...
Let me explain the technology. The cell phone is not for surfing. It's for
calling suburbanites such as yourself to let you know what you missed.
Where ya gonna be tomorrow FlypaperŽ?
Memory is fading but for me it wasn't so much
the wind as variable currents and shifty peaks
(those two things pretty much go together if
the currents are moving you around), and i
inexperience with the spot. I didn't see any
waves when I was out there that were too big
to surf on a 7'2", but couldn't get to or into
any on the board I was on... what, a 7'6"?
I've surfed bigger days than that, but on
reefs and points that were easier to assess
and catch.
--
.-``'. Tim Maddux, Postdoctoral Investigator, WHOI
.` .`~
_.-' '._ "The waves, as always, hold the more insidious addiction."
"Timothy B. Maddux" wrote:
> In article <E2dD9.1002$Tm6.13...@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com>,
> <ski...@blakestah.com> wrote:
> >The video doesn't really give you the impression of
> >how much the wind is blowing into the face on takeoff.
> >Ask Tim about that - the day he was out was very similar
> >in size to today (but not as shapely).
>
> Memory is fading but for me it wasn't so much
> the wind as variable currents and shifty peaks
> (those two things pretty much go together if
> the currents are moving you around), and i
> inexperience with the spot. I didn't see any
> waves when I was out there that were too big
> to surf on a 7'2", but couldn't get to or into
> any on the board I was on... what, a 7'6"?
>
> I've surfed bigger days than that, but on
> reefs and points that were easier to assess
> and catch.
Which is exactly why extra length=more waves caught in S.F. I've seen guys
tear it up on boards 1-2 feet shorter than I ride on any given day. But I'll
catch twice as many waves and ride pretty much how I want to ride the waves
(like a stiff old fart). The trade-off is that the paddle out can be harder
since there is less duckdiveability with more foam.
You can't surf unless you catch waves.
Get yourself out here and let's try it again.
Jeff
"The old fart was smart". (Captain Beefheart)
I saw you kook out on the three foot mushburgers
you call "surf". You should quit letting your board go
on the inside. You might hurt someone who can really surf.
BTW..I hear you made quite an impression when you
were on the north shore last year. There is a story
about you on http://www.chunnsreef.com. Titled "Classic Tourist Kook".
"kdalle" <kda...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3DDD271F...@earthlink.net...
You better stop posting so much. I hear Bill is looking
in the direction of your cube. Don't get canned again.
"superfly®" <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message
news:10379108...@utility.isomedia.com...
"hangeleven" <hange...@nospam.com> wrote
hangeleven wrote:
> BTW..I hear you made quite an impression when you
> were on the north shore last year. There is a story
> about you on http://www.chunnsreef.com. Titled "Classic Tourist Kook".
As usual, you're mistaken. This was the actual article:
http://www.iav.com/~sponge/sesh/new/sesh180.htm
(Thanks to Neal and Bud for a great time.)
Think you should probably change your name back to hangten. I think FlypaperŽ
just bit down hard. OUCH!
kdalle
>Met up at 6:30 with kdalle and some other regular crew
>members. It was smaller than yesterday, but occasionally
>sets were coming through with juice. The paddle-out would
>not be uncertain today, and it was smaller. I took the minigun.
Looked fun...typical OB. Nice drop, mush burger after that, short
ride, kick out. First waverider forgot that last step and got eaten
alive by the shorebreak monster.
School killed me this week, but I'll be out tomorrow, probably head
north of town...report and perhaps pics or vid to follow.
Did you happen to spot my disposable Fuji cam on shore? Got ripped
off me last Friday on the paddle out.
G
http://scsurfers.com
http://altsurfing.org
http://www.pacificwaveriders.com/gioni
Very nice! Bet you guys love those kind of days.
I had the 45 to that song!
sponge
I'll vouch for Jeff as a hardcore waterman. The guy has some incredible
endurance and paddling ability, not to mention being a good surfer.
And that current at OB is nasty. I was tripping when I surfed there, and it
was only head-high.
sponge
didnt go though...
peter wanted to go but wouldnt do it without me. looked big
but very clean, that was what had me considering it, the cleanness.
probably hit it up when it fades some like tomorrow or sunday.
i like the small waves with the big wave feel...
-Tom-
ski...@blakestah.com wrote:
> Met up at 6:30 with kdalle and some other regular crew
> members. It was smaller than yesterday, but occasionally
> sets were coming through with juice. The paddle-out would
> not be uncertain today, and it was smaller. I took the minigun.
>
> All of us (and I think everyone else) made the paddle,
> but it took a little time. Once out, the sparse sets began
> to show their juice. 20 second period sets rolled in from
> the horizon every 10 minutes or so, and the A-frame
> nature of their breaking was unparalleled for this beach. Put
> simply, it doesn't ever peel better than this. And it was larger
> than it looked from the beach - I am thinking 12 foot ish, but
> you can see the vid and check for yourself.
>
> My first drop I lost it, and got pounded. Then, pounded again.
> And again. And again. And again. I was thinking about how
> tired I was, and how it wouldn't really be bad to leave right
> now.
>
> I got back out. Kdalle was making up for yesterday's lost time -
> I think he had three waves already on his 8'6". My first wave was
> a lined up left. It peeled and peeled and peeled, with reasonably
> steep face.
>
> Then, the sun came up. The offshore winds were creating veils over
> the tops of the waves, and we wished we had a camera. Yellow/red
> sky, big misting veils off waves, and lines to the horizon.
>
> I then grabbed my last wave. I took off late/deep, and turned in.
> The lip began to pitch in front of me, and I tucked under. I just
> cleared the closeout section with the largest coverup of my life.
> I turned down the face as the rest of this section of the wave
> collapsed. I rode it in, and grabbed the camera. Hopefully,
> I will get a short video up later.
>
> One other thing. I called Fly® on my cell phone to let him
> know how good it was. He had turned his phone off.
>
> -PA
/erik
>And that current at OB is nasty. I was tripping when I surfed there, and it
>was only head-high.
Neal, I really recommend that you do not do drugs when surfing. Especially
tripping. Take it easy, ok? We all love you here.
__________________________________________________
"Pain is the sensation of weakness leaving the body"
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10379172...@utility.isomedia.com>...
"driftwood®" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10382515...@utility.isomedia.com>...
"driftwoodŽ" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
Must of been weak, mushy 25'... lol
"driftwoodŽ" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
> If you and Bud are ever at
> Ocean Beach at the same time, please let me know ahead of time so I
> can charge admission for the free show.
> "superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10382927...@utility.isomedia.com>...
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10382801...@utility.isomedia.com>...
That's right. Getting her teeth fixed...
The north end of the beach in the summer... <super eye roll>
What was the call? 18 inch SW?
Some kook named Driftcoast who changed his handle to
drifting tide and later said he was probably drunk
or stoned when he posted about 25 foot surf. Probably
got nothing to do with you, though, I wouldn't worry
about it.
"driftwood®" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
Assumption number 1: "later said he was probably drunk or stoned when
he posted about 25 foot surf." Well Detective Maddux, I remember
saying I might have been medicated. Sometimes doctors prescribe stuff
like vicadin. But obviously, after reading what some people have
posted on here about my so-called habits... Mr. Maddux can't form an
opinion of his own, which leads me to the next one:
Assumption number 2: I remember saying 20-22 foot faces, but leave it
to alt.surfing to exaggerate the situation to make me look foolish.
Should I except anything less from this place? Nope.
Isn't the vicadin factor something like WHx2/6(.333WHx24)AWH?
Never touched the stuff myself.
Awe
http://forum.surfermag.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/028376.html
"After much time evaluating that session, I realized I probably
grossly overshot the face height. My bad. Probably the natural
herbs I was using in pain recovery."
>Assumption number 2: I remember saying 20-22 foot faces...
http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=20021110210754.22186.00003110%40mb-cv.aol.com
"The spot in question was large, probably 20-25 foot faces."
http://site130.webhost4life.com/floridaaamc/potmemory.htm
"This paper will try to elucidate some of the chemical effects of
marijuana on the ... cells of the hippocampus where short-term
memories are formed."
--
.-``'. Tim Maddux, Postdoctoral Investigator, WHOI
.` .`~
_.-' '._ "From the essence of pure stoke springs all creation."
Bwaaahaha! Classic. Way to go, Tim.
"I remember saying" ... "I remember saying"
What a pathetic liar, driftkook. I read those
surfermag.com messages when you first posted them, even
ones you've since deleted. As Tim pointed out above,
did you forget that the Supreme Court posted "Don't
Pull a Driftcoast" to AS?
Nov 11 - (after air dropping into a 25 footer &
snapping his board) "Diagonsis? A swell knee. Badly
bruised on the outside. A bunch of torn tendons and
stuff on the inside. Prognosis? At least six months out
of the water. Crutches. Some physical therapy. I'm done."
Nov 22 - (from crutches to ready to try surfing, 10
days) "Might have to kook out at Caspar in the morning
with the bum knee. ... Well, if the swell does drop
enough, and VC looks good, I might just be out on a
white hybrid board with no stickers, save a small logo
toward the fins."
http://forum.surfermag.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/028564.html
It's gotta be the magnets... wait,
who are we talking about again?
--
.-``'. Tim Maddux, Postdoctoral Investigator, WHOI
.` .`~
_.-' '._ All your wave are belong to me!
tbma...@alumni.caltech.edu (Timothy B. Maddux) wrote in message news:<as2jco$3uq$1...@naig.caltech.edu>...
Bud <b...@wavelust.com> wrote in message news:<3DE50D7C...@wavelust.com>...
"driftwood®" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10388870...@utility.isomedia.com>...