eric - hope you get well
Mike Sullivan
er, uh, you got some splainin to do....
Mike
SurfSarge
>Eric
>
>er, uh, you got some splainin to do....
Ya that was some wave eh? He's such the hero...Mine at least!! BWAHAHAHA!
-PD
driftwood®
entertaining, but still fiction. But then again, I don't really exist.
=)
e.
Mike Sullivan
driftwoodŽ wrote:
> According to some, my life is nothing more than a work of fiction,
> entertaining, but still fiction. But then again, I don't really exist.
whether you exist or not is immaterial. The point is that
that was a classic post that could have propped our ratings
up after the elections, and you wasted it on a bunch of
sycophant profiles that are all gearing up to tell the same
story in another year or so.
Have Kira show you how!
Mike
The Supreme Court
The text of the message:
http://forum.surfermag.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/027875.html
"I told myself this morning that I probably shouldn't surf today. The waves
were really large and out of control. I just couldn't help myself though. I
knew there was at least somewhere that would be sheltered enough to grab some
rides.
I was right... well, sort of.
The spot in question was large, probably 20-25 foot faces. It was dumpy and
pretty much closing out, but every once in a while a wave would loom up out of
the deep that offered a wall, or a barrel. I couldn't resist.
I managed to paddle out... sort of. It took me at least 45 minutes to make it
to where the surf began to break. God, it was a mess. What was I thinking?
I dodged more waves than I managed to ride (partially thanks to the currents).
The take offs were unreal. Pitching hard as they sucked off the bottom. These
were probably the wildest drops I have ever taken in my life. Adrenaline? You
f__king bet!
I'd pull into closeouts. I'd do my best to carve the few open faces. It was
big. It was definitely crazy, but what was even more mad was the fact that I
was actually having loads of fun. That was my first, and last, mistake.
This ungodly beast rolled through and in the back of my mind, I knew I should
have probably just paddled over it, but midway up the face, I spun and paddled
liked a man possessed. It wasn't enough.
The wave jacked rapidly and as soon as I reached my feet, I was freefalling.
When I landed, I was off balance. My left knee folded 90 degrees sideways and I
got sucked back over.
After what felt like an eternity going through the washing machine rinse cycle,
I managed to reach the surface, where I yelled out in much agony! It got worse.
Attached to my leash was a little less than half a board. I noticed the other
piece riding the water on it's own.
Paddling in was a nighmare. The currents wouldn't allow me to make it to the
sand without a fight. I kept getting stuck in the impact zone and taken for an
underwater thrill ride. Finally though, I scratched onto the sand. It hurt to
walk, but I had no choice.
I laughed for a moment, because I must have looked like a fool hobbling up to
my car. Getting out of my wetsuit became the ultimate challenge.
This was one of those experiences where I felt really good to be on land. I
debated on whether or not to go to the hospital. In fact, I debated it up until
about an hour ago. My home remedies of herb just weren't cutting it.
Diagonsis? A swell knee. Badly bruised on the outside. A bunch of torn tendons
and stuff on the inside. Prognosis? At least six months out of the water.
Crutches. Some physical therapy. I'm done.
So I guess now I'll be surfing vicariously through the rest of you. Charge it
this winter, but be careful. Don't pull a driftcoast."
and there you have it...
superfly®
"The Supreme Court" <distan...@aol.com> wrote
Corbeau
performance on a 7'6"] on a 20-25ft face.
BTW, how was it today? More of the same? (please say no)
C.
On Sun, 10 Nov 2002 19:52:35 -0800, "superfly®" <superfly@the_pad>
wrote:
superfly®
What a zoo. There must of been 30 ppl in the water
at this place. (hair dry paddle into 2-3x). Half of them
can't even surf head high waves, yet they are out there
with their 6'3" right in the pit. When I was out saturday,
the first big wave came thru and broke 3 boards. It's
too bad the big sets weren't more consistent. It would
of thinned out the crowd. OTOH, it's hard to blame them.
Lots of stoke in the air. When I saw you saturday, I had
just came back and was getting a spro and the spro chix
were even buzzing about the waves.
It's sad on one hand to see 30 ppl in the water that 3 years
ago there would of been 8-10, but it's also kinda entertaining
to watch this little communtiy wake up to surfing. We even had
spectators saturday...
"Corbeau" <Cor...@Unkindness.com>
Bud
> superfly <superfly@the_pad> wrote:
>
>>LOL. Classic! I wonder if he was riding his 6'4" or his 6'8"?
>
>
>
Not Found
The requested URL /ubb/Forum1/HTML/027875.html was not
found on this server.
It looks like the little weener deleted the topic.
Kinda says something, eh? I was in process with my
contribution (below) so still have the whole thread in
my browser.... hmmmmm..
--
FWIW, I've been rolling my eyes at almost everything
I've read from Eric since 1998. "Driftcoast" is well
known in alt.surfing for many years. Aka driftwood aka
waveslider aka daRat aka Oregonlocal aka Eric Burch,
etc. etc.
He is famous for writing fantasy surf stories and
having a keen interest in large surf, especially at
Mavericks. Problem is, what to believe? He is/was quite
a prolific contributor, according to his own writings
in alt.surfing, he got his first tube less than 2 years
ago, earlier this year he was
[url=http://groups.google.com/groups?as_epq=i%27m%20working%20on%20being%20comfortable&safe=images&ie=ISO-8859-1&as_ugroup=alt.surfing&as_uauthors=darat&lr=&hl=en]"working
up to being comfortable in 2xoh"[/url] he lives quite a
ways inland, he doesn't surf very often, he regularly
drinks enough to have hangovers, he smokes weed and
cigarettes... and [b]now[/b] he's air-dropping into
stormy, 4xoh surf... excuse me - <ahemcoughbullsh*t>
Pretty amazing that he [b]"paddled in" and "kept
getting stuck in the impact zone"[/b] on the broken
rear half ("less than half") of a 7'6" in stormy 20-25'
surf and didn't mention any fiberglass cuts.
Bud
Awe F'shore
news:3DCF3F07...@wavelust.com...
> ski...@blakestah.com wrote:
> > superfly <superfly@the_pad> wrote:
> >
> >>LOL. Classic! I wonder if he was riding his 6'4" or his 6'8"?
> >
> >
> > He was on the 7'6"
> >
>
> Not Found
> The requested URL /ubb/Forum1/HTML/027875.html was not
> found on this server.
>
> It looks like the little weener deleted the topic.
> Kinda says something, eh? I was in process with my
> contribution (below) so still have the whole thread in
> my browser.... hmmmmm..
>
http://forum.surfermag.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/027924.html
From his repost:
Author's note: Had to kill off the old thread. I'm not one for drama,
but I certainly did my share to create it. 80 posts, and it was getting
stretched thin toward the end.
Anyway, I'm reposting this has something good to read for the group, and
as a reminder to me that I was way out of my league....
LOL!
superfly®
far and wide! We will find you when you pop up with
one of those big wave stories. You are our clown and if we
can't have you, no one will!
"Bud" <b...@wavelust.com> wrote
Corbeau
I don't eat popcorn or potato chips but if I did I'd be munchy
munching away at this point. I'll just sit and sip my ginger ale
instead. This is too fluckin funny. My favorite post in this thread
so far actually comes from the suffermag BBS thread:
"get a boogie board and charge on that, p*ssy!" by twEak8.
That nasty "fingpointa" from AS has been _haunting_ poor Driftcoast
for a couple years. We should do something about him.
Buy him sushi maybe.
C.
driftwood®
hunting ways. Please, be my guest. The more you pull this junior high
crap, the less entertaining you become. And to think, this comes from
grown men. Maybe it's true, the Internet really does make you
stupid... and in this crew's case, it's reached inbred level. You're a
sad bunch.
driftwood®
free time, one would have thought that Fall ratings would have been
astronomically good. I mean, Preston alone with his fantasies should
have kept A.S. in the top two percent. Maybe you can get Bud over here
this winter and have him charge double overhead Ocean Beach on a 6'2".
That'd be a hoot. And I figure the G. Duke show get cancelled before
any more preparations get made, but that's all right. Alt.surfing is
resilient enough without the need for my "fictional lies."
Mike Sullivan <su...@forsythe.stanford.edu> wrote in message news:<3DCEFFDC...@forsythe.stanford.edu>...
superfly®
Here's a pic from saturday-
http://alt-surfing.org/temp/110902_d01.jpg
"Corbeau" <Cor...@Unkindness.com> wrote
tdsurf
<superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote:
>Smaller amd less consistent.
>
>Here's a pic from saturday-
>http://alt-surfing.org/temp/110902_d01.jpg
>
Nice !!!!
driftwood®
like more of a superfly persona. Its understandable that you get names
mixed up, though. I haven't done much of either in quite some time.
Got better things to do. And I guess you also didn't get the memo. I
no longer longer live inland dumbass.
Its amazing what a lot of water time does to a person's confidence.
Hell, even when I was living in Flake County, I was surfing on a
fairly regular basis. But you wouldn't know that because you're too
busy trying to impress a couple of alt.surfing boneheads with your
"look how bad I can make Eric look." scheme. You clowns are still
under the impression that my surfing is stagnent and so 1998. Get a
clue, that was close to five years ago. Things change.
You're a loser Bud, plain and simple. BTW, still think you can charge
Ocean Beach on a 6'2". Are you really that much of a rippah? Aloha
bitch.
e.
superfly®
> Hey Bud, that whole boozing, weed and cigarette smoking thing sounds
> like more of a superfly persona. Its understandable that you get names
> mixed up, though. I haven't done much of either in quite some time.
Either? He mentioned 3 things...
Looks like you'll have plenty of time to smoke some cigratettes and watch
TV now.
> Got better things to do. And I guess you also didn't get the memo. I
> no longer longer live inland dumbass.
WHERE DO YOU LIVE, BAD TEETH?
> Its amazing what a lot of water time does to a person's confidence.
> Hell, even when I was living in Flake County, I was surfing on a
> fairly regular basis. But you wouldn't know that because you're too
> busy trying to impress a couple of alt.surfing boneheads with your
> "look how bad I can make Eric look." scheme. You clowns are still
> under the impression that my surfing is stagnent and so 1998. Get a
> clue, that was close to five years ago. Things change.
Didn't you get your first barrel 2 years ago? Now you are dropping
25 footers? And, of course, you have been pulling mad airs in
between times. You should go pro!
> You're a loser Bud, plain and simple. BTW, still think you can charge
> Ocean Beach on a 6'2". Are you really that much of a rippah? Aloha
> bitch.
"aloha bitch". Cool.
Timothy B. Maddux
superfly® <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote:
>http://alt-surfing.org/temp/110902_d01.jpg
ooh.
--
.-``'. Tim Maddux, Postdoctoral Investigator, WHOI
.` .`~
_.-' '._ "From the essence of pure stoke springs all creation."
superfly®
You are a good writer and have the whole AS audience at your feet.
All you have to do is go out and surf hard for 8-10 years. That's the
fun part!
"driftwood®" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
superfly®
Bad Teeth. Notice how I'm propping up your drama thread
with some reality? That's what I've always told you. You
need a little reality in your profile. A little violence in your sex...
"tdsurf" <t...@wavenospcamam.com> wrote
fannie fhantom
> You mean, the alt.surfing ratings have dropped? With such talent and
> free time, one would have thought that Fall ratings would have been
> astronomically good. I mean, Preston alone with his fantasies should
> have kept A.S. in the top two percent. Maybe you can get Bud over here
> this winter and have him charge double overhead Ocean Beach on a 6'2".
> That'd be a hoot. And I figure the G. Duke show get cancelled before
> any more preparations get made, but that's all right. Alt.surfing is
> resilient enough without the need for my "fictional lies."
Alt.surfings ratings have dropped faster than a prom dress. Good call
wavecaster. We want Bud! We want Bud! We want Bud! BOUNCE, BOUNCE,
PASS, PASS, BORING, BORING, BORING, BORING!
phantom of the night
Neal Miyake
> Smaller amd less consistent.
>
> Here's a pic from saturday-
> http://alt-surfing.org/temp/110902_d01.jpg
Great shot.
sponge
kdalle
kdalle
superfly®
"kdalle" <kda...@earthlink.net> wrote
> Nice wave. Nice shot. Where exactly is this?
>
> kdalle
>
superfly®
> Hey Bud, that whole boozing, weed and cigarette smoking thing sounds
> like more of a superfly persona.
Lets have one more round of applause for the late great driftkook,
AKA "bad teeth" and many more. I've got a big plate of boldt staring
me in the face right now. It was a very good year in the bush. lots
of sunshine. When I take a big long drag of boldt and a then a slow
drink of whisky I think about bad teeth and all the shit he's pulled
on this newsgroup and how I tried to help him and even took him under
my wing and tried to make something of the little bitch...
It's all here;
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=group:alt.surfing+insubject:bad+insubject:
teeth&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=uqhkq01cf3cs0f%40corp.supernews.com&r
num=4
Know your AS history
Timothy B. Maddux
superfly® <superfly@the_pad> wrote:
>Know your AS history
Still can't find a link to the AS History page from the hub.
superfly®
the loudest about it... I had a dream last night... Rod's wife
kicked his teeth in and he quit surfing...
"Timothy B. Maddux" <tbma...@alumni.caltech.edu> wrote
kdalle
you steal that photo from?
kdalle
kdalle
could come up with.
kdalle
ski...@blakestah.com wrote:
> superfly <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote:
> > Here's another; http://alt-surfing.org/temp/110902_d02.jpg
>
> The combination of glassy sea surface, kelp, and
> overcast skies really works. Nice shot.
>
> And, kdalle, it is a PNW shot. Also, I'm going to check your
> end of the beach at first light if I'm not occupied then.
>
> -PA
tdsurf
<superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote:
>Here's another; http://alt-surfing.org/temp/110902_d02.jpg
>
>Bad Teeth. Notice how I'm propping up your drama thread
>with some reality? That's what I've always told you. You
>need a little reality in your profile. A little violence in your sex...
>
..... or a little sex in your surf. That's one pornographic wave there
supe'.
td
superfly®
contigent there? I mean, a big, beautiful system parks itself off
the coast for a few days and you guys are incapable of surfing or
filing a surf report "until the waves get smaller".
Either you guys are lacking in upper body strength
and/or
You are unwilling to travel a few miles
Either way it doesn't look good and frankly I and others are thoroughly
disgusted. Are there any SF lurking chargers willing to step up and take
control of the situation?
"kdalle" <kda...@earthlink.net> wrote
kdalle
1. Surfed Saturday in Santa Cruz in waves that make the ones in your photos
look like shorepound.
2. Surf on average 4 times a week (200 times a year) for the last 25 years
in conditions where you would be crying for your Mommy.
3. I think you better mow the lawn now. It's looking scruffy and you know
the peer pressure of suburban living.
4. I saw your pathetic attempt to surf in S.F. when you were here for the
convention at Moscone.
5. Finally, get your hand out of your pants when you're thinking about me
you qwerty jockey.
kdalle
Timothy B. Maddux
kdalle <kda...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>4. I saw your pathetic attempt to surf in S.F. when you were here for the
>convention at Moscone.
Thank goodness. Now I know at least I'm not the only one...
--
.-``'. Tim Maddux, Postdoctoral Investigator, WHOI
.` .`~
_.-' '._ "The waves, as always, hold the more insidious addiction."
Surfer Bob
Then tbma...@alumni.caltech.edu (Timothy B. Maddux) wrote:
> ooh.
So I wrote:
In my language, that would be AHWHOOOOOOOO!!!
Surfer Bob
driftwood®
difficult for the detractors to tell fiction from reality. Obviously
you all assume the fiction. But what do you really know about me? What
makes you think what I write is fantasy?
BTW, thanks for the kind words about my writing.
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10370542...@utility.isomedia.com>...
superfly®
their motives, their desires, their actions. Everybody can relate
to that. You can write about anything if you write about the ppl
involved and make it interesting. If you concentrate on the mechanics
of your *perceived* topic you will only get hurt.
Does Kem Nunn surf 40 footers? No. Certainly he did some research
but the thrust of his genius lies in his character development which made
his "surf" novel a best seller. House wives read it.
"driftwood®" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
> I guess that's the key to being a good surf writer, is to make it
> difficult for the detractors to tell fiction from reality. Obviously
> you all assume the fiction. But what do you really know about me? What
> makes you think what I write is fantasy?
Has nothing to do with anything other than common knowledge and keeping
this show on the road. Do a search for the string "bad teeth" on
groups.google.com
and you will see some excellent accidental char development. Then move on to
"clay riley", that fat little fuck that stole your net account and then "kirra".
You
had a little help on that one...
Run with it!
The Supreme Court
> But what do you really know about me? What
>makes you think what I write is fantasy?
Maybe you can relate to this:
Let's say you have a tattoo. Wait, you DO have a tatoo. Now let's say I do not
have a tatoo. OK? You = tatoo. Me = no tatoo.
Then I tell you that I have a tatoo and you ask me about my experience getting
the tatoo.
So, I write a stroy about getting my tatoo. The place, how I chose the art, the
artist, the needle, how it felt, what I did the next few weeks, what happened
with the shower, etc etc.
Now remember, I have no tatoo and you do.
Since you have gone through that process, you would most likely be able to tell
that I am full of shit and am trying to play like I have a tatoo.
That's what make me think you write fantasy.
It's all good, clean fun!
__________________________________________________
"Pain is the sensation of weakness leaving the body"
driftwood®
wives. Nunn's character development was fair, but far from genius. The
cast lacked depth, except for the photographer, and it was hard to get
involved with the story because of that. Obviously Nunn didn't do
enough research when it came to the area. Maybe Tapping The Source was
better.
e.
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10371564...@utility.isomedia.com>...
superfly®
imaginary 25footers and we'll keep developing your character.
Maybe he wrote the other chars w/o depth to contrast it with
the photog? His description of surfing big waves is entirely more
believable than yours. Maybe it's because he left out the details
that he was unsure of? Maybe he interviewed some real big wave
chargers?
"driftwood®" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
rodNDtube
> superfly <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote:
> > Here's another; http://alt-surfing.org/temp/110902_d02.jpg
>
> The combination of glassy sea surface, kelp, and
> overcast skies really works. Nice shot.
>
> And, kdalle, it is a PNW shot. Also, I'm going to check your
> end of the beach at first light if I'm not occupied then.
>
> -PA
Don't spoil all the fun, grumpy. That's the same pic Craig was gonna
post for Gleshna and others showing SW Lake Michigan at 3.2' plus -
featured rider is Craig on the Pope-Bisect.
Rod Rodgers
eMail: rrod...@bcpl.net
Homepage: http://www.rodNDtube.com/
GuidoPalooza: http://www.rodndtube.com/gp/guidopalooza.html
rodNDtube
Sorry to make you wet your pants today. 'Tis not my baby. But, so many
HAVE asked about it. Nonetheless, as I suggested on the HUB listserv, why
not post a list of credits/page sponsors so this fix can be made?
P.S. I quit surfing a long time ago... because it lacks soul.
-----------------------------------> <g>
rodNDtube
It's nearly 3 hours from Redmond to Westport... even further from other
AS PNW habitats, but closer if you have a lean-to along the Strait and
it's breaking there... once you get there, that is... and can fit surfing
into a weekend warrior schedule.
P.S. At this point a weekend surf would be just as good as a weekday!
superfly®
Sorry to make you wet your pants today. 'Tis not my baby. But, so many
HAVE asked about it. Nonetheless, as I suggested on the HUB listserv, why
not post a list of credits/page sponsors so this fix can be made?
Getting to the bottom of this complex and detailed problem today.
Actually postponing lunch with hot new russian developer so I can
attend to this matter. Not to mention the new "olive bar".
P.S. I quit surfing a long time ago... because it lacks soul.
-----------------------------------> <g>
You don't need the smilee...
Cha-ching!
http://www.washtech.org/wt/news/courts/display.php?ID_Content=381
Timothy B. Maddux
superfly® <superfly@the_pad> wrote:
>Rod, I thought this was your baby pet?
Last time I asked, you said to email Steve,
so I did. You guys, quit pointing fingers
and put it in there. Cut and paste. Or
give me SSH access.
<a href="http://alt-surfing.org/sponge/as_history.htm" style="text-decoration:none">alt.surfing history</a><br>
--
.-``'. Tim Maddux, Postdoctoral Investigator, WHOI
.` .`~
rodNDtube
> "rodNDtube" <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote
> Sorry to make you wet your pants today. 'Tis not my baby. But, so many
> HAVE asked about it. Nonetheless, as I suggested on the HUB listserv, why
> not post a list of credits/page sponsors so this fix can be made?
> Getting to the bottom of this complex and detailed problem today.
> Actually postponing lunch with hot new russian developer so I can
> attend to this matter. Not to mention the new "olive bar".
At least I have confidence in you that it's a hot new *female* russian
developer and not the kind your son to the south prefers. (no smiley
inteded)
> P.S. I quit surfing a long time ago... because it lacks soul.
> -----------------------------------> <g>
>
> You don't need the smilee...
Depressing isn't it!
> Cha-ching!
> http://www.washtech.org/wt/news/courts/display.php?ID_Content=381
rodNDtube
> rodNDtube <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote:
> > It's nearly 3 hours from Redmond to Westport... even further from other
> > AS PNW habitats, but closer if you have a lean-to along the Strait and
> > it's breaking there... once you get there, that is... and can fit surfing
> > into a weekend warrior schedule.
>
> > P.S. At this point a weekend surf would be just as good as a weekday!
>
> You make the fatal error second only to "not engaging in a land
> way in Asia." You assume a regular job for the prolific PNWer.
>
> Bad assumption.
>
> -PA
Yeah, well... me is only hUmAn. But maybe he'll score that entrenched
bureaucratic job at MS as a result of the SC decision in the infamous
lawsuit.
rodNDtube
Some universal contact lists would be useful.
Or you can pop in at AOL/Yahoo IM at shiftrefresh... sometimes better than
email w/Steve.
The front page is not my domain... only our sweet Close Encounters
pages.
superfly®
What happened? Your wife kick your teeth in?
Boss got you by the nuts? Mortgage over your head?
Check your teeth and go surfing.
You can do it!
"rodNDtube" <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote
superfly®
gauge all others by. Rod, how long have you had your nose
up your bosses ass? Decades? How does it feel to take the
same boring dreary route to work eveeeeeeeeeery days for
years. To look at the same cube deviders for years on end.
The saaaaaaaaaaaaaaame snoresville of a xmas party that
you HAVE to go to every year. Not to mention all the good
days of surfing you miss because you are SHACKLED to
your job...
And... if I do take a full time position somewhere someday,
it will be glorious new territory for me. That will never ever happen
unless I can broker 2 *full* wild card days of surf travel/week.
Rod, don't pull a driftcoast.
<ski...@blakestah.com> wrote
rodNDtube
> superfly <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote:
>
> > Cha-ching!
> > http://www.washtech.org/wt/news/courts/display.php?ID_Content=381
>
> Synopsis.
>
> Microsoft permatemp settlement appeal DENIED.
>
> $97 million doled out amongst 12000 or so permatemps.
>
> Egads - that is about $8000 per person. Prolly more if
> you worked there a LOT.
>
> Guess this means the Mind will finally get that ticket to
> the PNW.
>
> -PA
Make that two tickets... Best part of it all: we won't have to bring
gifts!
superfly®
"Timothy B. Maddux" <tbma...@alumni.caltech.edu> wrote
rodNDtube
I hope you do better when guessing a line of code! It's all about the
waves, baby, the waves and winds. But we do have something brewing...
nice for us anyways.
superfly®
> As to what those observations are, well, that you will have to find
> out someplace else. Or, you could simply come out front and say you
> are writing fictional works and would like contributions from people
> who actually know what it feels like to surf overhead waves. I suspect
> some people would help you, and you wouldn't look like an inland
> skate rat writing about surfing.
I'd rather have "bad teeth" in the house, personally. The world is filled
with big wave rippers who actually walk the talk. Where can you find
a guy that will admit he only surfs when his chick has to get her teeth fixed
yet thinks that somehow, if he watches enough TV and surf videos he will
become a big wave person?
driftwood®
interesting and entertaining if Nunn had decided to focus a lot on the
photog and the hardcore big wave local (who for some reason seems to
be patterned after you...or you patterned more after it), but given
more character to the supporting cast. The story felt a little empty.
Maybe that's why you liked it.
e.
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10372121...@utility.isomedia.com>...
superfly®
wave rider.... that's coo.
I think he purposely crafted the story as "empty" or leaving one with
a feeling of "emptiness". Worked for me.
Kem Nunn did do a lot of research for "dogs" in this area.
"Don't pull a driftcoast!"
"driftwood®" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
superfly®
swell? Even we have waves in the fall.
If I were you, I'd move out of that shit hole, pronto.
"Don't pull a driftcoast!"
"rodNDtube" <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote
rodNDtube
> As if I could hold one?
Your aspirations!
> Rod has only his tiny tiny little life to
> gauge all others by.
Sorry to disappoint you on the tiny tiny part. Nor am I judgemental of
others. To each their own... a concept that is worth exploring.
> Rod, how long have you had your nose
> up your bosses ass? Decades?
LOL... I think I know who you are REALLY referring to.
> How does it feel to take the
> same boring dreary route to work eveeeeeeeeeery days for
> years.
Sucks with today's traffic, but I keep it lively by shooting through some
interesting D.C. neighborhoods and dodging snipers, crackheads and
potholes the size of elephants.
> To look at the same cube deviders for years on end.
Is that what it's like at MS?
> The saaaaaaaaaaaaaaame snoresville of a xmas party that
> you HAVE to go to every year.
Haven't been to one in years :)
> Not to mention all the good
> days of surfing you miss because you are SHACKLED to
> your job...
LOL... if we had MORE good days I would be missing more of them but as it
is I don't miss too many of them anymore... The hit rate is actually very
good. But, I did miss the afternoon of Oct 16th.
> And... if I do take a full time position somewhere someday,
> it will be glorious new territory for me. That will never ever happen
> unless I can broker 2 *full* wild card days of surf travel/week.
It will be your employer that's taken ;)
> <ski...@blakestah.com> wrote
> > You make the fatal error second only to "not engaging in a land
> > way in Asia." You assume a regular job for the prolific PNWer.
> >
> > Bad assumption.
Ha!
rodNDtube
> We are over half way into fall and you guys have had what, one major
> swell? Even we have waves in the fall.
>
> If I were you, I'd move out of that shit hole, pronto.
Thanks for the advice! We've actually been keeping up with SoCal, for
whatever that's worth, except for parts of their last swell. PR has been
a lot more consistent as has been Hawaii and France and Ireland and Spain
and Portugal and Canaries and Africa. But the last 2 weeks have been s**t.
That goes for most of us on the East Coast, just not me.
> "rodNDtube" <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote
> > I hope you do better when guessing a line of code! It's all about the
> > waves, baby, the waves and winds. But we do have something brewing...
> > nice for us anyways.
Rod Rodgers
Kira Riley-Fubuki
weekend. Swell was rolling in from the horizon like angry corduroy.
Times like this really make me think of Dylan Clay Riley, the love
of my life. He would get all agitated and drag us out to seek big
waves. You see, on the North Coast in winter, you can either seek
small waves in coves and sheltered points, or you can go to exposed
breaks and charge.
After dropping off the baby at the Sullivan's, I decided to charge.
I knew JUST the spot. When I arrived, I took out my binoculars, and
spotted the peak. It was a long paddle out, but not a traumatic one,
and the wave was just sickly peeling. I suited up and headed out, after
saying a prayer to Dylan. This day I would try to land to Gorkin flip
to honor his memory. After the two mile paddle, I made the line-up -
alone. Waves were coming in with 20-25 foot faces (in all due respect
I think Bud and Neal would call them 15 footers). Then, a big set wave
came, and I was inside. Instead of scratching over the top (I don't
know what made me think of this...) I turned and did a no-paddle
drop-in. The wave sucked out hard, and I pushed my nose into the face.
As it sucked up harder, I pushed down harder - so close to the hairline
edge between pearling and airdropping I thought I was done for. But
I made the drop. Then, the turn. You cannot just lean in and go on wave
like this. The board doesn't turn that fast, and one false move and
you are done. I leaned in a little, and waited for the board to turn.
Waiting, waiting. It came around and I spotted the face in front of
me. I could just make the lip for the Gorkin flip.
I arc'd to the lip and hit it just as that section of wave collapsed.
I leaned down to grab my rail and began the flip. I came around, and
spotted my re-entry. The rear of the board hit first, and I knew I
was landing too deep. I again tried to push down the face, but I acted
only with the knowledge that making my way across the face would
lessen the beating I was about to take. Then, it hit. The lip. It felt
like a ton was dropped on my back, and I felt the board snap under my
feet. I was driven down with the force of a speeding truck. I wrapped
my arms around my head hoping I wouldn't hit anything and lose
consciousness. My body did three, four, five somersaults while undergoing
tens of feet of elevation change. It felt like I was a ping pong
ball in the Superlotto drawing. Then, it started to slow down. I tried
to swim to the surface, but the foam was so aerated that it was difficult.
Finally, with my lungs nearly bursting, I got to breath, and began the
long swim in. The wave had driven my back into the rivermouth, so
the swim in was uneventful. I headed back to the Sullivan's, and
picked up the baby.
My neck and back are still sore, but I am happy to have gotten out on
such a spiritual day, and honored Clay's memory by landing the Gorkin
flip.
Best of surfing to all - XOXOXOXO
Kira
driftwood®
the first time around, the names may have been all North Coast, but
the locations weren't. Like I said all along, the setting is more PNW.
So let me guess, now you were a consultant on Nunn's book, right?
Riiiiight.
e.
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10372398...@utility.isomedia.com>...
> So the truth comes out. You'd rather be a big wave writer than a big
> wave rider.... that's coo.
>
superfly®
> Who says you can't be both?
I do. You don't have a plan in hell on how to be a big wave rider.
You're dreaming humboldt purple dreams and watching TV.
You're pulling a driftcoast.
> See, I knew it. After reading "Dogs..."
> the first time around, the names may have been all North Coast, but
> the locations weren't. Like I said all along, the setting is more PNW.
> So let me guess, now you were a consultant on Nunn's book, right?
>
> Riiiiight.
Meds are kickin in for you, huh? Did I say I was a consultant? No.
lp
"Kira Riley-Fubuki" <orego...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
< snipped kira surfing atop a bodysurfing sully for the first ever tandem
gorkin on a big wave >
cool story.lp
Crag Rides Again!
> Hey Bud, that whole boozing, weed and cigarette smoking thing sounds
> like more of a superfly persona.
Aren't you the one who was in the great a.s. smokeout that never got
off the ground because none of you stoners would leave your house?
Also IIRC you have posted about drinking on more than one occassion,
including references to hangovers and a DUI.
Crag Rides Again!
> On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, superflyŽ wrote:
>
> > We are over half way into fall and you guys have had what, one major
> > swell?
Major swell? Where, when? I must've blinked and missed it.
> > Even we have waves in the fall.
That is because your coast faces in the proper direction.
> > If I were you, I'd move out of that shit hole, pronto.
No kidding. This place is absolte *hell* for anyone who enjoys riding
waves. It may possibly be even worse than the GLs - at least they
have west-facing beaches.
> Thanks for the advice! We've actually been keeping up with SoCal,
In the area of crack-induced delusions, maybe.
> But the last 2 weeks have been s**t.
Make that the last two months, and you're onto something.
> That goes for most of us on the East Coast, just not me.
Reasserting everything I ever took back about east coast surf....
driftwood®
"superfly " <superfly@the_ghetto.com> wrote in message news:<10372973...@utility.isomedia.com>...
superfly®
on a newsgroup and tell ppl how I want to be a big wave
rider either. It's not on my short list right now. But if it was
I would bro up w/other big wave riders, start surfing lot's
of meduim sized waves (2-3x), devise a training program
and a lifestyle geared around it. All things you've apparently
overlooked. But that's not what you really want to do, is it?
You just want to yap your flap about it like you do over
on surfermag.com, right?
Maybe if you wish upon your lucky stars one more time you
will be able to paddle out and catch a wave at mavericks
next year?
"driftwoodŽ" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
rodNDtube
Poor Dan is working up to 7 days a week now and only on occassion can even
muster up a weekend surf. Code. Code. Code. Too many walls.
superfly®
<ski...@blakestah.com> wrote
> Actually, Rod, what he says resonates pretty well with my
> experience in the same area. I've been wondering for the
> last few years if you've been hitting the crack pipe
> too hard.
SLAPPY THE CLOWN
> hunting ways. Please, be my guest. The more you pull this junior high
> crap, the less entertaining you become. And to think, this comes from
> grown men. Maybe it's true, the Internet really does make you
> stupid... and in this crew's case, it's reached inbred level. You're a
> sad bunch.
> You clowns are a sad and pathetic bunch.
Who the heck do you think you are calling this group a sad and
pathetic bunch of clowns, you Bozo? We are clowns not imposters, you
Bozo. Hey, Bozo, are you eating a baked candied yam or is that your
goiter?
SLAPPY LO-LO WEARY-WILLY SOUPY SALES SNAKE BOY EMILY THE BEARDED
LADY
T E A M C L O W N A L L E Y
rodNDtube
> rodNDtube <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote:
> > Poor Dan is working up to 7 days a week now and only on occassion can
> > even muster up a weekend surf. Code. Code. Code. Too many walls.
>
> Actually, Rod, what he says resonates pretty well with my
> experience in the same area. I've been wondering for the
> last few years if you've been hitting the crack pipe
> too hard.
>
> -PA
Actually, Dave, you actually have some experience in the same area? Or,
one could alternatively postulate... there are thousands of people that
live and surf up and down the entire east coast, thousands and thousands
of others in the USA that live a distance from their wave breaking coasts,
and thousands and thousands of others that are bound my work or other life
commitments to not live a 24/7 surfing experience (including yourself).
Yet these thousands upon thousands continue to enjoy the sport. And some
of these thousands upon thousands don't even have fun in waves 3' hawaian
(is that 500# plus?), waves that others might pooh-pooh. Get used to it.
And get S T O K E D !
Mike Sullivan
lp wrote:
Sully as wave-riding tool?
nah, I couldn't make the trip, I had to go to the store, damned if Kira
didn't
forget do leave diapers with the kid.
But Kira was just putting you giuys on, she really didn't surf
that certain reef, but surfed with a bunch of her grrrlfriends at
Mendo cove in protected shoulder-high mush.
I guess I'm a surfing tool after all!
Mike
driftwood®
devotion to riding big waves, but you do puff your chest up enough to
lead people to believe you're some hardcore mysto PNW guy. You know,
the type that sounds awfully familiar to the grizzled big wave guy in
Nunn's book. It's a cliche with you. And from the sounds of things
from people on this newsgroup, you're nature is questionable.
So who be the fingapointa now?
"superfly " <superfly@the_pad> wrote in message news:<ut8u30q...@corp.supernews.com>...
driftwood®
if you want some kind of approval from alt.surfing heavy hitters. Grow
a spine dude.
superfly®
> Actually, Dave, you actually have some experience in the same area? Or,
> one could alternatively postulate... there are thousands of people that
> live and surf up and down the entire east coast, thousands and thousands
> of others in the USA that live a distance from their wave breaking coasts,
> and thousands and thousands of others that are bound my work or other life
> commitments to not live a 24/7 surfing experience (including yourself).
Yes and most of them are living quiet lives of desperation and waking up
every morning only to "pull their own driftcoast" like having an 800lb
gorilla on their backs...
Dave seems to be on it when it counts. He doesn't seem to have many
regrets except when he lived in baltimore.
> Yet these thousands upon thousands continue to enjoy the sport. And some
> of these thousands upon thousands don't even have fun in waves 3' hawaian
> (is that 500# plus?), waves that others might pooh-pooh. Get used to it.
> And get S T O K E D !
STOKED that I'm not one of them!
superfly®
that all you have to do is talk about something and it will come true. You seem
to miss the chunk of experience that exists bewteen beginning and accomplishing.
Like when you watch pro surfing on TV you just see ppl riding waves for a few
seconds not knowing (because you're not doing) that it took 5 minutes to paddle
into
position.
You're missing the link between fantasizing about riding big waves and actually
riding big waves. Until you figure out this missing link you are just gonna be
my newsgroup bitch. Fine by me.
"driftwoodŽ" <wavec...@hotmail.com> wrote
> No, you may not sit around alt.surfing and proclaim your undying
> devotion to riding big waves, but you do puff your chest up enough to
> lead people to believe you're some hardcore mysto PNW guy. You know,
> the type that sounds awfully familiar to the grizzled big wave guy in
> Nunn's book. It's a cliche with you. And from the sounds of things
> from people on this newsgroup, you're nature is questionable.
I fail to see what my perceived lifestyle has to do with your lack of
big wave riding credibility?
> So who be the fingapointa now?
My nature is questionable!
rodNDtube
> "rodNDtube" <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote
> > Actually, Dave, you actually have some experience in the same area? Or,
> > one could alternatively postulate... there are thousands of people that
> > live and surf up and down the entire east coast, thousands and thousands
> > of others in the USA that live a distance from their wave breaking coasts,
> > and thousands and thousands of others that are bound my work or other life
> > commitments to not live a 24/7 surfing experience (including yourself).
>
> Yes and most of them are living quiet lives of desperation and waking up
> every morning only to "pull their own driftcoast" like having an 800lb
> gorilla on their backs...
>
> Dave seems to be on it when it counts. He doesn't seem to have many
> regrets except when he lived in baltimore.
I am sorry that he never found peace and solitude during his stay here -
but maybe he found the way to his current blissful existence. What is
really sad about most of his rants re: the east coast is that he seems to
have lived that life of the 800lb gorilla MOST of his life.
> > Yet these thousands upon thousands continue to enjoy the sport. And some
> > of these thousands upon thousands don't even have fun in waves 3' hawaian
> > (is that 500# plus?), waves that others might pooh-pooh. Get used to it.
> > And get S T O K E D !
>
> STOKED that I'm not one of them!
Stoked :)
Crag Rides Again!
> On 14 Nov 2002, Crag Rides Again! wrote:
> > Reasserting everything I ever took back about east coast surf....
>
> Poor Dan is working up to 7 days a week now and only on occassion can even
> muster up a weekend surf.
Hell, and why not? Weekend or weekday, it is not as if I am missing
anything, surfwise. The way I figure it, is that as long as I am
condemned to this dismal locale, I may as well make hay while the sun
ain't a-shinin and the surf ain't a-poundin.
Fortunately for me, I have a hot date lined up with my beloved
Pacific, in the very near future.
If it is true that the hardships one endures in order to ride waves
are the measure of one's stoke, then comitted Balmer surfers must be
just about the most stoked people you could ever hope to meet....
Crag Rides Again!
> BFD Crag, you're nothing more than a petty shit disturber.
First, you've been on usenet long enough that you should know enough
to quote the message to which you are responding.
Second, don't get your panties all in a wad. I'm sure that a North
Coast Hellman like you can withstand a little exposure to the harsh
glare of truth from time to time. IOW, Bud's post was accurate.
Don't blame him, and don't blame me for actually reading what you have
posted.
> Almost as if you want some kind of approval from alt.surfing heavy hitters.
Yes, that's *exactly* what I'm doing, Eric. My posting history is
fraught with unadulterated obsequiousness. Just wait until I start
posting big wave surfing stories in here. Then the big dogs will love
me!
> Grow a spine dude.
That's pretty funny, coming from you.
Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to recall that you posted
something on the suffermag bb last winter in which you claim to have
surfed 40 foot waves?
Corbeau
news:3c32e5f4.02111...@posting.google.com:
>
>> Grow a spine dude.
>
> That's pretty funny, coming from you.
>
> Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to recall that you posted
> something on the suffermag bb last winter in which you claim to have
> surfed 40 foot waves?
>
You musta missed the followup post - that was 40' laterally. I surfed a
humongous 50 footer last weekend myself...
C.
Bud
> No, you may not sit around alt.surfing and proclaim your undying
> devotion to riding big waves, but you do puff your chest up enough to
> lead people to believe you're some hardcore mysto PNW guy. You know,
> the type that sounds awfully familiar to the grizzled big wave guy in
> Nunn's book. It's a cliche with you. And from the sounds of things
> from people on this newsgroup, you're nature is questionable.
>
> So who be the fingapointa now?
>
Jeeeezus dorkwoodŽ, you post a 25' wave saga with holes in the
story big enough to drive a truck through, and some people call
you out on it. You have at least seven replies to this AS thread
and NOT ONCE have you stepped up with the "facts" to fill in the
holes. Instead, you delete the topic (twice) from the surfermag
BB and you go back n forth with flames here in AS. If I had such
an experience - blowing a knee and snapping a 7'6" while air
dropping into a stormy 25 footer, and *then* getting worked in
the impact zone while paddling in on the broken rear half of the
stick - I'd look forward to telling the gory details to the
doubters.
Is it possible to have less than zero credibility?
Bud
driftwood®
Unfortunately there were no photographers around to prove it. Oh well,
whatcha gonna do? Sheesh. I guess that means you're wrong. I started
posting to the surfermag.com bb in May of this year. Proo Crag, hoping
to become one of alt.surfing's "made" guys.
crag_t...@yahoo.com (Crag Rides Again!) wrote in message news:<3c32e5f4.02111...@posting.google.com>...
Bill Andrews
> difficult for the detractors to tell fiction from reality. Obviously
> you all assume the fiction. But what do you really know about me? What
> makes you think what I write is fantasy?
Surf writer fantasy?
Naw, not you Driftkook!!
AKA:
Driftwood
The Beach Boys
Driftwood
Jan and Dean
Driftwood
Glensha
Driftwood
Bo Diddley Goes Surfing
Driftwood
Fabian
Driftwood
Gidget
Gidget Goes Hawaiian
Driftwood
Crack-Head Bob
Driftwood
Frankie Avalon
Driftwood
Glensha
Murph the Surf
Driftwood
Bill Andrews
Driftwood
Dick Dale
BA
Driftwood
Whew....
http://community.webshots.com/user/bill_andrews21
http://alwayssports.com
rodNDtube
> rodNDtube <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote:
>
> > Actually, Dave, you actually have some experience in the same area?
> > Or, one could alternatively postulate... there are thousands of people
> > that live and surf up and down the entire east coast, thousands and
> > thousands of others in the USA that live a distance from their wave
> > breaking coasts, and thousands and thousands of others that are bound
> > my work or other life commitments to not live a 24/7 surfing
> > experience (including yourself).
>
> I can only speak about from Monmouth Cy through Assateague.
>
> I didn't enjoy long drives that, in the 50% of the time the
> surf didn't go to crap on the drive there, was mediocre at
> best. I didn't have 5 hours to throw at a 50% chance to surf
> mediocre waves. I had other shit to do. If you make anyone drive
> far enough for a 50/50 shot at east coast surf, eventually they
> will drop off.
>
> You just seem to drop off much later than others, unless it is
> cold. Then you don't surf. Me, I don't mind the cold, but there
> has to be better than a 50% chance of really good surf after
> 2.5 hours in the car.
>
> -PA
Maybe your forecasting skills were not as good back then as they are now.
I can't complain compared to a decade ago... the ratio of scoring some fun
surf is much better, more like 4:1 or better compared to 1:4 (or so it
seemed). Then again, after moving to the continental USA after living in
PR, the surf was not so inviting for several years (make that east and
west coasts). Hands down there was simply no comparison. Sometimes fun
times are what you make of them.
rodNDtube
P.S. BTW, Baltimore is much better than San Francisco!
The Supreme Court
>P.S. BTW, Baltimore is much better than San Francisco!
>
For a surfer?
__________________________________________________
"Pain is the sensation of weakness leaving the body"
Andy
Bud <b...@wavelust.com> wrote in message
news:3DD59D5B...@wavelust.com...
> Jeeeezus dorkwood®, you post a 25' wave saga with holes in the
> story big enough to drive a truck through, and some people call
> you out on it. You have at least seven replies to this AS thread
> and NOT ONCE have you stepped up with the "facts" to fill in the
> holes. Instead, you delete the topic (twice) from the surfermag
> BB and you go back n forth with flames here in AS. If I had such
> an experience - blowing a knee and snapping a 7'6" while air
> dropping into a stormy 25 footer, and *then* getting worked in
> the impact zone while paddling in on the broken rear half of the
> stick - I'd look forward to telling the gory details to the
> doubters.
>
> Is it possible to have less than zero credibility?
>
> Bud
Yup, he's setting the bar.
Now if Alvin was here.
Andy
Crag Rides Again!
> On Sat, 16 Nov 2002 ski...@blakestah.com wrote:
>
> > rodNDtube <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Actually, Dave, you actually have some experience in the same area?
> > > Or, one could alternatively postulate... there are thousands of people
> > > that live and surf up and down the entire east coast, thousands and
> > > thousands of others in the USA that live a distance from their wave
> > > breaking coasts, and thousands and thousands of others that are bound
> > > my work or other life commitments to not live a 24/7 surfing
> > > experience (including yourself).
> >
> > I can only speak about from Monmouth Cy through Assateague.
> >
> > I didn't enjoy long drives that, in the 50% of the time the
> > surf didn't go to crap on the drive there, was mediocre at
> > best. I didn't have 5 hours to throw at a 50% chance to surf
> > mediocre waves. I had other shit to do. If you make anyone drive
> > far enough for a 50/50 shot at east coast surf, eventually they
> > will drop off.
It does get good on the DelMarVa. Not great, but definitely fun and
definitely worth surfing. I have gotten stoked. That 2.5+ hour ride
back from the coast at the end of the day is kind of a stoke killer,
though.
But overall you are right. I am pretty sure that if I was going to be
here long term (thankfully, I am not), riding waves would assume a
much lower priority in my life. I think it takes incredible
dedication (and lots of travel) to stay stoked in that situation.
> > You just seem to drop off much later than others, unless it is
> > cold. Then you don't surf.
Actually, he does, at least down into the 40's F water and 30's F air
(protected by 3/2mm) that I know about. We will see how it goes this
winter.
> > Me, I don't mind the cold, but there
> > has to be better than a 50% chance of really good surf after
> > 2.5 hours in the car.
> >
> > -PA
>
> Maybe your forecasting skills were not as good back then as they are now.
To their credit, the ASC guys are right on the money with the surf and
wind forecasts. They are nailing very narrow windows of opportunity,
from 3-4 days out. When they have told me that it will be worth the
drive, they have been right.
For me, it's just difficult going from averaging 2-3 times/week to 2-3
times/month, and of course the average surf back home is better than
the best surf I have seen on the DMV.
> I can't complain compared to a decade ago... the ratio of scoring some fun
> surf is much better, more like 4:1 or better compared to 1:4 (or so it
> seemed). Then again, after moving to the continental USA after living in
> PR, the surf was not so inviting for several years (make that east and
> west coasts). Hands down there was simply no comparison.
I think we'd need to take a long, hard look at the dataset behind that
conclusion.
> Sometimes fun times are what you make of them.
Always!
I love a good east coast vs west coast thread. ;-) Now where'd that
pedestrian vs booger troll get to?
rodNDtube
> >From: rodNDtube rrod...@bcpl.net
>
> >P.S. BTW, Baltimore is much better than San Francisco!
> >
>
> For a surfer?
Is that what I said??? Is there SURF in Baltimore? HA HA. Just a response
to Dave's bringing up his sad childhood again. Probably better than
Tampa... even for a surfer. Don't pull a driftcoast!
driftwood®
write it for others to marvel at, compare notes with, or in your case,
look for enough flaws to once again call me out.
Let me guess though, somehow dwelling over how time seemed to slow
down and the world became silent as I was being sucked over, only to
feel like I was being catapulted into a brick wall and then slammed by
a wrecking ball upon impact will help boost my credibility rating? Or
how about talking about how deafening the noise was upon impact. The
trip through the energy was violent. My body twisted and contorted
like I never thought possible. Limbs were ready to detach on a
moment's notice as they were being pulled every which way.
And of course, the beating after beating I took upon surfacing from
the initial blast and then finding out I was stuck in a bad place.
Have you ever found yourself in survival mode Bud, where inside you
are about to panic because you don't want to die, yet your mind stays
rational and processes the situation, while searching for a way out?
Do you know that feeling?
During the moments when I wasn't getting mauled, I was literally
inching my way toward the shoulder. I guess all that swimming/paddling
I did over in Lake County paid off after all. It took a while, but I
managed to get away from the worst of it. Upon reaching a more safe
zone, I picked off a wave that didn't close out and bodysurfed down
the face, letting what was left of my board drag behind... and drag it
did. The mountain of snow pushed me inside toward the calmer waters,
if you could call it that. I'd pick off some reforms that allowed me
to get closer and closer to the beach. I didn't bother to count the
time for alt.surfing, but it took quite a while to battle my way in.
Honestly, it is hard to find the words to describe the whole
experience. Even with trying to stay calm, I wasn't sure I was going
to make it. I was tired and my body was ready to commit itself to the
deep. I now understand the concept of life flashing before your eyes.
As someone once said: 'It is easy to die, but much harder to live." I
was scared, and reflecting back on it now, my body shakes. Do you
know that kind of fear Bud?
Paddling out that day was, by far, the stupidest thing I have ever
done. I felt confident without really knowing what I was getting
myself into. I wanted to know that feeling of being able to ride a
real big wave. And since I have been surfing well in the overhead plus
zone, I figured what the hell.
I remembered hearing about a guy who used to surf the San Mateo coast
on big days. He became some sort of a legend for his exploits in
Mavericks surf on a 7'4"....a 7'4"!!! Might have been a little bigger,
but he was riding waves on a board under 8 feet in length. He was also
known for pulling into a 10 foot double up in LP's home area on a
6'2". The sinker was that he lived in the Central Valley. If he could
get away with it, then why couldn't I?
Was it worth it? No. Now I've got at least three months, maybe more,
ahead of me where all I will be able to do is sit along the shore and
watch the days go by.
Who says I wanted to fill any gaps in the report? Would it have
changed alt.surfing's view of me? Probably not. I'm sure if I had a
cover shot in some surf magazine of me taking off on a wave during a
small day at Mavericks, compete with a caption, people here would
still find ways of making me out to be a fake.
Wanna know why I deleted the threads surrounding this surf report Bud?
I was tired of the drama that came with a few alt.surfers. Drama that
always seems to surround alt.surfing. And here I am now, continuing
the tradition.
Oh, and one more thing. You don't have to worry as much about getting
cut with fiberglass shards when you're wearing 4mm of rubber. But then
again, you wouldn't know anything about that, would you?
eric
CRUEL STEPFATHER
dearest oregonian loca: Rather than atempting to wryte the great
American Short Story, try a Ann Landers' tease to grab your reader's
attention. Save the drama for Donna, and, oh yeah, Neal Miyake.
Thanks.
aHatedStepFather
ann Landers' tease
> Well, it was certainly exciting up here on the North Coast last
> weekend. Swell was rolling in from the horizon like angry corduroy.
> Times like this really make me think of Dylan Clay Riley, the love
> of my life. He would get all agitated and drag us out to seek big
> waves. You see, on the North Coast in winter, you can either seek
> small waves in coves and sheltered points, or you can go to exposed
> breaks and charge.
>
> After dropping off the baby at the Sullivan's, I decided to charge.
> I knew JUST the spot. When I arrived, I took out my binoculars, and
> spotted the peak. It was a long paddle out, but not a traumatic one,
> and the wave was just sickly peeling. I suited up and headed out, after
> saying a prayer to Dylan. This day I would try to land to Gorkin flip
> to honor his memory. After the two mile paddle, I made the line-up -
> alone. Waves were coming in with 20-25 foot faces (in all due respect
> I think Bud and Neal would call them 15 footers). Then, a big set wave
> came, and I was inside. Instead of scratching over the top (I don't
> know what made me think of this...) I turned and did a no-paddle
> drop-in. The wave sucked out hard, and I pushed my nose into the face.
> As it sucked up harder, I pushed down harder - so close to the hairline
> edge between pearling and airdropping I thought I was done for. But
> I made the drop. Then, the turn. You cannot just lean in and go on wave
> like this. The board doesn't turn that fast, and one false move and
> you are done. I leaned in a little, and waited for the board to turn.
> Waiting, waiting. It came around and I spotted the face in front of
> me. I could just make the lip for the Gorkin flip.
>
> I arc'd to the lip and hit it just as that section of wave collapsed.
> I leaned down to grab my rail and began the flip. I came around, and
> spotted my re-entry. The rear of the board hit first, and I knew I
> was landing too deep. I again tried to push down the face, but I acted
> only with the knowledge that making my way across the face would
> lessen the beating I was about to take. Then, it hit. The lip. It felt
> like a ton was dropped on my back, and I felt the board snap under my
> feet. I was driven down with the force of a speeding truck. I wrapped
> my arms around my head hoping I wouldn't hit anything and lose
> consciousness. My body did three, four, five somersaults while undergoing
> tens of feet of elevation change. It felt like I was a ping pong
> ball in the Superlotto drawing. Then, it started to slow down. I tried
> to swim to the surface, but the foam was so aerated that it was difficult.
> Finally, with my lungs nearly bursting, I got to breath, and began the
> long swim in. The wave had driven my back into the rivermouth, so
> the swim in was uneventful. I headed back to the Sullivan's, and
> picked up the baby.
>
> My neck and back are still sore, but I am happy to have gotten out on
> such a spiritual day, and honored Clay's memory by landing the Gorkin
> flip.
>
> Best of surfing to all - XOXOXOXO
>
> Kira
The Supreme Court
>Is that what I said??? I
I don't know what you said. That is why I asked.
>Is there SURF in Baltimore?
No. There is not surf in, or anywhere near, Balitimore. It's a great city - if
you don't surf.
>Don't pull a driftcoast!
No chance at all this fall on the east coast, usa. It has sucked so bad.
The Supreme Court
>Do you
>know that kind of fear Bud?
DO YOU KNOW THAT KIND OF FEAR, BUD? DO YOU???
>Paddling out that day was, by far, the stupidest thing I have ever
>done.
This is a great thread. I'm glad you wrote it and we put it up on AS. It's been
fun.
>Now I've got at least three months, maybe more,
>ahead of me where all I will be able to do is sit along the shore and
>watch the days go by.
>
So what about the search for the R@t? It's still on starting 1/1/2003. PA and I
are assembled and planning. We are going to seek you out R@t. Sorry about your
knee. You can take pictures.
>Wanna know why I deleted the threads surrounding this surf report Bud?
>I was tired of the drama that came with a few alt.surfers.
R@t, you put in up on Surfermag not on AS.
>Drama that
>always seems to surround alt.surfing. And here I am now, continuing
>the tradition.
These are the good old days.
See you Jan 2003!
rodNDtube
> >From: rodNDtube rrod...@bcpl.net
>
> >Is that what I said??? I
>
> I don't know what you said. That is why I asked.
>
> >Is there SURF in Baltimore?
>
> No. There is not surf in, or anywhere near, Balitimore. It's a great city - if
> you don't surf.
>
> >Don't pull a driftcoast!
>
> No chance at all this fall on the east coast, usa. It has sucked so bad.
Get some tomorrow!
If it's any consolation, it is 1-2' at Swami's and head to overhead from
Pussy Point thru Wildo's today and tomorrow.
Mike
> Hell, and why not? Weekend or weekday, it is not as if I am missing
> anything, surfwise. The way I figure it, is that as long as I am
> condemned to this dismal locale, I may as well make hay while the sun
> ain't a-shinin and the surf ain't a-poundin.
>
> Fortunately for me, I have a hot date lined up with my beloved
> Pacific, in the very near future.
You honestly haven't missed that much Dan; at least not yet. There
have been some swells here and there but well below average imo.
Caught a few fun days in D.M. last week (but probably too mushy for
your tastes). Are you gonna be around for turkey day? Email/call me
if you're in the neighborhood.
Mike
Bud
> So who says I really wanted to fill any "gaps" in the report? I didn't
> write it for others to marvel at, compare notes with, or in your case,
> look for enough flaws to once again call me out.
>
> Let me guess though,
<snip- driftwood fills in the gaps anyway>
>
> Honestly, it is hard to find the words to describe the whole
> experience.
<snip- driftwood somehow finds the words anyway>
> Who says I wanted to fill any gaps in the report?
No one said you wanted to. I called you out on it.
>
> Wanna know why I deleted the threads surrounding this surf report Bud?
> I was tired of the drama that came with a few alt.surfers. Drama that
> always seems to surround alt.surfing. And here I am now, continuing
> the tradition.
Yeah, I agree, you are way too dramatic imo.
>
> Oh, and one more thing. You don't have to worry as much about getting
> cut with fiberglass shards when you're wearing 4mm of rubber. But then
> again, you wouldn't know anything about that, would you?
>
Very little, that is without a doubt true. I have not
surfed with a wetsuit since the early '80's. Having
experienced paddling snapped boards many times however,
I knew there was no way to do what you described
without getting mangled. BUT, I admit the wetsuit
factor of your story never entered my thick head.
I have virtually no experience in this area but in this
light it sounds much more plausible. Consider me eating
crow :)
I still think you're a kook, but wtf, so am I. Good
surfing to you.
Bud
rodNDtube
> rodNDtube <rrod...@bcpl.net> wrote:
> > Maybe your forecasting skills were not as good back then as they are now.
>
> When I moved to Baltimore, the WWW didn't exist. The best weather
> info I had access to was the local paper, which sucked. Thus the
> 50/50 shot at mediocre surf.
Back in those days your odds were probably more like 4:1, rather than 1:1.
Things have changed.
> It got especially bad if you missed the window 3 times in a row.
> That is 15 hours of driving for nada. Glad things are better
> now - not the waves - just the ability to know when you wanna
> drive. The waves still suck.
>
> -PA
Given your past experience it's fair to say you are drawing on a poor
baseline. Today's baseline has the potential to yield a much higher good
hit rate for waves like those shown at this web site (watch the Oct 16
series cycle through). These can be some fun waves:
http://www.delsurf.com/
Nonetheless, the DMV is not be confused with the fine tropical zones.
westoz
I have not
> surfed with a wetsuit since the early '80's.
Bud you should be publicly stoned for that insensitive comment.
Now lets all go and get stoned
Tom.
driftwood®
able to surf, but yeah, I'll chronicle your exploits in the water.
Bring a video cam. You've got the email. If not:
drift...@hotmail.com. See you in 2003.
e.
distan...@aol.com (The Supreme Court) wrote in message news:<20021116153710...@mb-df.aol.com>...
Awe F'shore
news:20021116084308...@mb-mf.aol.com...
> >From: rodNDtube rrod...@bcpl.net
>
> >P.S. BTW, Baltimore is much better than San Francisco!
> >
>
> For a surfer?
no, but there you can ball more.