A friend showed me a different approach to making the crust. I've done
it and it works wonderfully. Rather than cutting the fat into the flour
(and salt, sugar or whatever else you put into it), I've been cutting
the (very cold) fat into small cubes, tossing it with the (very cold)
flour to coat and keep separated, adding a little ice water, and then
dumping the whole thing on the counter.
The point in making a crust is to get little bits of fat scattered
throughout the flour matrix for the distinctive texture of pie crust.
Traditional approaches have included using a pastry blender, two knives,
or fingers to break the fat into smaller pieces. Here's a new way...
Toss the fat cubes in the flour to coat and stir through. Add Then dump
the whole thing out onto a counter where you can roll it out. Roll over
the pile of stuff heavily. It'll still be powdery. Roll a few times,
then slide a pastry scraper under the edges and fold it into a small
pile. Roll again and scrape up again. The cubes of fat are being
flattened and spread through the flour. Scraping and folding keeps the
fat in sheets. Each rolling will make it all become more cohesive. After
several rollings, scrapings and foldings, you'll have a crust with the
fat dispersed in larger sheets than usual. The finished crust will be
flaky in a different way than usual. The flakes are larger. And the
crust, IME, is somewhat more waterproof.
It handles easily after the few rollings. I chill it before lining pans
with it. Gather it into a flat disk, wrap with plastic and chill for 1/2
hour. Then finish as usual. I usually roll it thicker than traditional
crusts - like 1/4 inch or so. It eats very nicely, absorbs juices
without getting soggy.
Pastorio
Oh my! I haven't made that for many years:) It was called rough puff
pastry then:))
>The usual direction for making pie crust is to cut the shortening into
>the flour. That results in small flakes or mealiness (still acceptable)
>depending on the fat used and the method of dispersal.
>
>A friend showed me a different approach to making the crust. I've done
>it and it works wonderfully. Rather than cutting the fat into the flour
>(and salt, sugar or whatever else you put into it), I've been cutting
>the (very cold) fat into small cubes, tossing it with the (very cold)
>flour to coat and keep separated, adding a little ice water, and then
>dumping the whole thing on the counter.
<big snip of interesting technique>
Now this is an interesting twist. It sounds somewhat akin to making
samosas in that you don't so much cut in the fat as to "mash" it in.
With samosas, of course, you do the mashing with your fingers (that
doesn't sound right!) rather than the scrape and roll method.
Hmmmm. I'm going to give it a try. I'm a pretty good pie maker
already, but always good to try something new!
Thanks, Pastorio!
TammyM
> The usual direction for making pie crust is to cut the shortening into
> the flour. That results in small flakes or mealiness (still acceptable)
> depending on the fat used and the method of dispersal.
>
> A friend showed me a different approach to making the crust. I've done
> it and it works wonderfully. Rather than cutting the fat into the flour
> (and salt, sugar or whatever else you put into it), I've been cutting
> the (very cold) fat into small cubes, tossing it with the (very cold)
> flour to coat and keep separated, adding a little ice water, and then
> dumping the whole thing on the counter.
>
My mother had the best method: cut in 1/3 the fat, and add the
rest in big pieces and very coarsely mix, as you describe.
Doug McDonald
It sounds good - and some questions:
About what were the size of the fat cubes you have used?
When you say "very cold" - do you use "floating in ice water" cold or "from
the refrigerator freezer" cold?
What oven temp(s) and time did you use to get good results with your thicker
crust of this method? (E.g, I've used the 400F-turned-down method to get the
bottom crust "done" first, ,and then a turn down to cook the fillings)
Thanks....
>
> Pastorio
a couple hints:
Put your shortening amount in small chunks in a bowl of ice water and let it
sit to thoroughly chill, before cutting. Cut in a cold bowl.
Roll it on a pastry cloth (insulates) rather than a metal sheet or plastic
counter-top (conducts heat). Pastry cloth= THE tool for pies.
Work rapidly but don't overwork. I teach "roll just once".
>
> Michael
>
> --
> ...Bacteria: The rear entrance to a cafeteria.
>
> All gramatical errors and misspellings due to Ramsey the cyber kitten. He
> now owns all keyboards and computing devices in the household and has the
> final say on what is, or is not, posted.
> Send email to dog30 at charter dot net
LOL it still is. That's the way my German/Swiss grandmother used to make
pie crusts and flaky pastry.
Your mother had *a different* method. Chacun a son gout...
Pastorio
1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.
> When you say "very cold" - do you use "floating in ice water" cold or "from
> the refrigerator freezer" cold?
From the freezer for at least an hour.
> What oven temp(s) and time did you use to get good results with your thicker
> crust of this method? (E.g, I've used the 400F-turned-down method to get the
> bottom crust "done" first, ,and then a turn down to cook the fillings)
375°F. If apple, until the filling is tender when stabbed through a
vent; 40 minutes or so. I usually run a strip of foil around the edge
for the first 20 minutes so it doesn't overbrown. I haven't done berry
pies with this crust yet. Pumpkin worked fine, as usual.
Pastorio
This technique tries to avoid the melting of fat that handling with
fingers creates. The idea here is to keep the fat completely solid. When
mooshing the fat with fingers, some of it melts and moistens the flour.
Results in a different texture and mouthfeel.
Pastorio
> "Bob (this one)" <B...@nospam.com> looking for trouble wrote in
> news:11oij37...@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
> I have to ask, not that it will do me any good but; Do you keep your
> shortening refrigerated? Maybe that's my problem baking. I would love a
> nice pie crust. Just once.
Chill in the fridge and cut it into pieces. Then, freeze it before using
it. Usually lard. Also butter. Freeze the shortening and the flour. Ice
water.
I also put a gallon-sized zipper bag filled with ice water on the
counter where I'm going to be rolling out the dough. Leave it there for
maybe 20 minutes before starting the crust.
Pastorio
Not the same. Puff paste (both classic and rough) uses butter which has
20% water in it. When it bakes, the water flashes over to steam and
causes the puffing by forcing layers apart. In this case, there's no
water in the fat, so no steam, so no puff.
Puff pastry contains at least as much as (or, more often, more butter)
than flour. When making a rough puff paste, you add more water than for
this sort of crust. And when you roll it, you do turns like with classic
puff paste. With this crust, you spread it (it will stick to the
surface) and scrape it back up onto itself and reroll. There's no effort
to make layers as in puff paste. No turns.
Pie crust (double-crust 9-inch pie) - 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks)
butter/shortening, 8 ounces (2 cups) flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon
sugar, 2 ounces (1/4 cup) water.
Rough puff paste - a pound of butter (4 sticks), 15 ounces of flour (4
1/4+/- cups (and 1/2 cup more for rolling it out), a teaspoon salt and a
cup of water.
Pastorio
> I also put a gallon-sized zipper bag filled with ice water on the
> counter where I'm going to be rolling out the dough. Leave it there for
> maybe 20 minutes before starting the crust.
I use the whatever large hunk o' meat I'm defrosting that day.
As long as it's reasonably flat it works great.
--
Reg email: RegForte (at) (that free MS email service) (dot) com
I was referring to the method not the quantities:)
But the method isn't the same, either. "With this crust, you spread it
(it will stick to the surface) and scrape it back up onto itself and
reroll. There's no effort to make layers as in puff paste. No turns."
The only similarity, and it's a rather distant one, is that at the
beginning, chunks of fat are rolled into flour. After that first
rolling, the technique departs from rough puff. Puff gets rolled out and
deliberately folded to create layers. This isn't. It's scraped up off
the work surface and compacted to be rolled again merely to incorporate
the fat, but in no special order. The whole business of making turns is
a completely different technique.
But, yes, they both begin roughly (couldn't help myself) the same way.
Pastorio
Ok:)) I was thinking of the difference between that and 'rubbed in'
pastry:)
>> "With this crust, you spread it (it will stick to the surface) and
>> scrape it back up onto itself and reroll. There's no effort to make
>> layers as in puff paste. No turns."
>
> Ok:)) I was thinking of the difference between that and 'rubbed in'
> pastry:)
Oh, sure. Much closer to the rough puff than "rubbed in" or "cut in"
pastries. And simultaneously more tender than the usual pie crust and
still flakier. Good for pasties, too. Made with lard.
Happy pies...
Pastorio
Ohh yes. Pastry MUST be made with lard................:))
O awaits the hoards to jump on her head:))
Whyever would you worry about people complaining that you suggest lard?
It is after all the best way to get a light, flaky pie crust, and
considering the alternatives, it's no worse for you.
maxine in ri
Bound to be someone..................:)
>
> > Oh, sure. Much closer to the rough puff than "rubbed in" or "cut in"
> > pastries. And simultaneously more tender than the usual pie crust and
> > still flakier. Good for pasties, too. Made with lard.
>
> Ohh yes. Pastry MUST be made with lard................:))
>
> O awaits the hoards to jump on her head:))
>
> Whyever would you worry about people complaining that you suggest lard?
> It is after all the best way to get a light, flaky pie crust, and
> considering the alternatives, it's no worse for you.
My mother always uses lard, says it is better than Crisco. She raves about
my pies and wants me to come over and show her how I do it. I keep telling
her that I use Crisco.
This whole thread is very interesting, but it sounds like a lot of extra
work. I mix my dry ingredients, then slice off a 1 cup chunk of Crisco,
dump into the dry ingredients and cut it in with a fork until it is about
the right size. Then I add the water, vinegar and beaten egg and stir in.
I think the secret to good pie pastry is the way you handle it... not too
much., and getting it tolled out in one try.
With the rough puff pastry you just add your lard to the flour, add the
water and mix carefully with a knife. When you roll it out you need to
do a couple of turns but that is it! The simplest pastry I know and
very good it is too:)) I agree about the handling. Keeping it cold and
handling very little is the way:))
>
>
Isn't it a law that pasties must be made with lard?
--
Wayne Boatwright *¿*
____________________________________________
Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974
Well since I haven't had any challenges I guess it is:))
>
> >> Whyever would you worry about people complaining that you suggest
> >> lard? It is after all the best way to get a light, flaky pie crust,
> >> and considering the alternatives, it's no worse for you.
> >
> > Bound to be someone..................:)
>
> Isn't it a law that pasties must be made with lard?
>
Some people think so. Some crusts, like puff pastry, call for butter. Lard
and shortening are interchangeable. As mentioned earlier, my mother always
uses lard, but she always raves about my pastry. I use Crisco.
They best not challenge you over a pasty! :-)
Has anyone tried using beef tallow for pastry? I have several pounds of
it in the freezer; gotta try it someday. I used lard for the
Thanksgiving pies because it didn't seem like a good time to experiment.
I used to cut the lard or shortening in with a pastry blender, but
lately I've started mashing it in with my fingertips so that *all* the
flour gets coated with fat before adding any water. Mix in the
icewater, gather into a ball, put in the fridge in a plastic bag for
half an hour before rolling. (I don't know if this is a good technique
or not; I don't have much to compare with because I'm the only one I
know who still makes scratch pie crust)
One of the pie recipes I used was very specific that the crust had to be
frozen at least 1/2 hour, and not taken from the freezer until you were
ready to fill it and put in a 450 oven. (after 10 minutes, turn the
oven down to 375, I think) I'm not sure what that was all about. I
know freezing seems to rescue a pie crust that was worked too much and
got tough, but I don't think that was the reason.
Best regards,
Bob
I haven't seen that here:(
>
>
LOL
That is how I make my shortcrust pastry. We call that 'rubbing in'. If
you use your fingertips and hold it high so that the air can get into
it, it comes out very light
Mix in the
> icewater, gather into a ball, put in the fridge in a plastic bag for
> half an hour before rolling. (I don't know if this is a good
> technique or not; I don't have much to compare with because I'm the
> only one I know who still makes scratch pie crust)
Yep that is exactly what I do as taught to me by my Grandmother:)
ROFL
>
> Has anyone tried using beef tallow for pastry? I have several pounds of
> it in the freezer; gotta try it someday. I used lard for the
> Thanksgiving pies because it didn't seem like a good time to experiment.
I've used it with reasonable success. It's OK for savory
type dishes, but I wouldn't use it for a dessert dish because
it does impart a bit of beef flavor
Sorry to jump into this so late but I could not help
noticing that this recipe is very similar to
<http://www.deliaonline.com/recipes/quick-and-easy-flaky-pastry,1109,RC.html>
from the one and only Delia.
Noises Off
The recipe you are highlighting is for what I call rough puff pastry. I
was commenting on shortcrust:) I love Delia's site:)
This sounds interesting. What are the proportions of other
ingredients to go with the 1 c Crisco?
Sue(tm)
Lead me not into temptation... I can find it myself!
"Bob (this one)" wrote:
>
> Arri London wrote:
> >
> > Ophelia wrote:
> >
> >> "Bob (this one)" <B...@nospam.com> wrote in message
> >> news:11oij37...@corp.supernews.com...
> >>
> >>>> It handles easily after the few rollings. I chill it before
> >>>> lining pans with it. Gather it into a flat disk, wrap with
> >>>> plastic and chill for 1/2 hour. Then finish as usual. I usually
> >>>> roll it thicker than traditional crusts - like 1/4 inch or so.
> >>>> It eats very nicely, absorbs juices without getting soggy.
> >>
> >> Oh my! I haven't made that for many years:) It was called rough
> >> puff pastry then:))
> >
> > LOL it still is. That's the way my German/Swiss grandmother used to
> > make pie crusts and flaky pastry.
>
> Not the same. Puff paste (both classic and rough) uses butter which has
> 20% water in it. When it bakes, the water flashes over to steam and
> causes the puffing by forcing layers apart. In this case, there's no
> water in the fat, so no steam, so no puff.
They are the same. The English rough puff pastry is not a true puff
pastry, which is why it's called rough. It doesn't puff but it is
flakey. And European butter doesn't come labelled as to water content
any more than American butter does (which seems to have more water in it
anyway).
It's an old technique.
Ophelia wrote:
>
> "Bob (this one)" <B...@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:11okjp4...@corp.supernews.com...
>
> I was referring to the method not the quantities:)
Don't worry about it. There seems to be some confusion between the
different types of flakey pastry. You were right and it is rough puff
pastry.
> "Bob (this one)" wrote:
>
>>Arri London wrote:
>>
>>>Ophelia wrote:
>>>
>>>>"Bob (this one)" <B...@nospam.com> wrote
>>>>
>>>>>>It handles easily after the few rollings. I chill it before
>>>>>>lining pans with it. Gather it into a flat disk, wrap with
>>>>>>plastic and chill for 1/2 hour. Then finish as usual. I usually
>>>>>>roll it thicker than traditional crusts - like 1/4 inch or so.
>>>>>>It eats very nicely, absorbs juices without getting soggy.
>>>>
>>>>Oh my! I haven't made that for many years:) It was called rough
>>>>puff pastry then:))
>>>
>>>LOL it still is. That's the way my German/Swiss grandmother used to
>>>make pie crusts and flaky pastry.
>>
>>Not the same. Puff paste (both classic and rough) uses butter which has
>>20% water in it. When it bakes, the water flashes over to steam and
>>causes the puffing by forcing layers apart. In this case, there's no
>>water in the fat, so no steam, so no puff.
>
> They are the same.
Is it that you simply can't read? Or that facts don't matter? By
definition, if it isn't made with butter, it isn't rough puff paste. Do
read a book on pastry-making.
> The English rough puff pastry is not a true puff
> pastry, which is why it's called rough.
Exactly. But the word "puff" is part of the name. For a reason. Rough
puff paste is a standard approach. It's called "rough" because it's a
less refined technique than proper puff pastry with less rise. Rough
puff paste depends on butter and turns. This crust uses pure fats and no
turns.
> It doesn't puff but it is flakey.
Then it isn't rough puff paste. At best, it's pie crust. If the
shortening isn't butter, it isn't puff paste, rough or otherwise. The
technique of rolling fat into flour isn't restricted to rough puff
paste. But if it doesn't puff, then it isn't rough puff paste.
> And European butter doesn't come labelled as to water content
> any more than American butter does (which seems to have more water in it
> anyway).
Both American and European standard butters have the same amount of
water. Plugra has less.
Are labels the only source of information in your world?
> It's an old technique.
So is belligerent, ignorant comment.
Pastorio
A memory from my childhood just floated to the surface today as I was
adding the water to a pie crust I was making. I remembered that my dad
wasn't much of a cook (he was competent in the kitchen, and helped with
the cooking, just not really all that great.) BUT, he was the only one
in the family that could make a superb pie crust. He made all the berry
pies because his crust really shined on berry pies. When my mom or me
tried to use his technique it never worked and our crust was good but
never great. And I just figured out why.
He thoroughly blended in half of the lard or Crisco, then he added the
rest of the fat and just barely mixed it in. Then rolled it out as
usual. When my mom or I did the same thing it didn't turn out as good,
and I bet it's because we mixed the second addition of fat in too
thoroughly. The first addition of shortening coated all the flour and
prevented the gluten from developing when the the dough was handled.
The pinto bean sized pieces of shortening from his second addition would
have flattened out into sheets during the rolling and made the crust
extra flaky.
I'm gonna try it with the next pie crust I make.
Best regards,
Bob
> He thoroughly blended in half of the lard or Crisco, then he added the
> rest of the fat and just barely mixed it in. Then rolled it out as
> usual. When my mom or I did the same thing it didn't turn out as good,
> and I bet it's because we mixed the second addition of fat in too
> thoroughly. The first addition of shortening coated all the flour and
> prevented the gluten from developing when the the dough was handled. The
> pinto bean sized pieces of shortening from his second addition would
> have flattened out into sheets during the rolling and made the crust
> extra flaky.
>
> I'm gonna try it with the next pie crust I make.
I use this method often. It creates a nice balance of
tenderness and flakiness. First a smaller amount of fat
is added at room temperature and combined completely,
the remainder is then added very cold and combined
only partially.
The first addition of fat comprises about 1/4 of the
total (or less if you want a sturdier crust) and is
added at room temperature and combined completely.
The remainder is added very cold in chunks and is cut
in until they're about pea sized.
The room temperature fat makes it tender, the cold
fat makes it flaky. Alton Brown does this is one of
his pie episodes.
<http://www.goodeatsfanpage.com/Season2/Crust/CrustTranscript.htm>
I don't always do this though. When I need very sturdy
crust for something like Beef Wellington I use all cold
fat.
> He thoroughly blended in half of the lard or Crisco, then he added the
> rest of the fat and just barely mixed it in. Then rolled it out as
> usual. When my mom or I did the same thing it didn't turn out as good,
> and I bet it's because we mixed the second addition of fat in too
> thoroughly. The first addition of shortening coated all the flour and
> prevented the gluten from developing when the the dough was handled.
> The pinto bean sized pieces of shortening from his second addition would
> have flattened out into sheets during the rolling and made the crust
> extra flaky.
IME, using your fingers to blend in the fat accomplishes this in one
step. I leave some larger bits to make nice big flakes and some that
are almost powdery to coat the flour. It's not really deliberate, it's
just what happens when you use your fingers rather than the food
processor or a pastry cutter.
Regards,
Ranee
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