It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have enough time and money).
I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to do something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for a silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making content prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still much to do.
Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
probably because it is a prototype.
Michel
On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
wrote:
> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try, therefore
> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two pictures
> here:
> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
> enough time and money).
> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to do
> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for a
> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making content
> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
> much to do.
Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before I get a real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly, it is quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will break loose. But I could use this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would probably yield much better results.
> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
> probably because it is a prototype.
> Michel
> On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
> wrote:
>> Hi folks,
>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try, therefore
>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two pictures
>> here:
>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
>> enough time and money).
>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to do
>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for a
>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making content
>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
>> much to do.
Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am spending all
my free time making nixies, not much time to write about it on blog.. I am
now in phase of building glass lathe again, the previous one was of bad
design..
I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a lead-in-wires with
tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them on helium leak detector and
some of them are ok! :-) So now I need the lathe to make the envelopes and
seal it..
I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers from thin
stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching proces will have to be
made more even and much much faster to prevent under-etching..
I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor discharge
welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be adjusted, tungsten-steel
welds are now really easy :-)
> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before I get a
> real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly, it is
> quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will break loose. But I
> could use this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would probably
> yield much better results.
> Jens
> Nice work Jens!
>> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
>> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
>> probably because it is a prototype.
>> Michel
>> On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
>> wrote:
>>> Hi folks,
>>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try, therefore
>>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two pictures
>>> here:
>>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
>>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
>>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
>>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
>>> enough time and money).
>>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to do
>>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for a
>>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making content
>>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
>>> much to do.
>>> Best regards
>>> Jens
> --
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On Thursday, 27 September 2012 08:06:12 UTC+1, Dalibor wrote:
> Hello!
> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am spending > all my free time making nixies, not much time to write about it on blog.. I > am now in phase of building glass lathe again, the previous one was of bad > design..
> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a lead-in-wires with > tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them on helium leak detector and > some of them are ok! :-) So now I need the lathe to make the envelopes and > seal it..
> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers from thin > stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching proces will have to be > made more even and much much faster to prevent under-etching..
> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor discharge > welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be adjusted, tungsten-steel > welds are now really easy :-)
> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics" <webm...@jb-electronics.de<javascript:>> > napsal(a):
>> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before I get a >> real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
>> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly, it is >> quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will break loose. But I >> could use this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
>> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would probably >> yield much better results.
>> Jens
>> Nice work Jens!
>>> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
>>> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
>>> probably because it is a prototype.
>>> Michel
>>> On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
>>> wrote:
>>>> Hi folks,
>>>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try, therefore
>>>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two pictures
>>>> here:
>>>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
>>>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
>>>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
>>>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
>>>> enough time and money).
>>>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to do
>>>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for a
>>>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making content
>>>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
>>>> much to do.
>>>> Best regards
>>>> Jens
>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neoni...@googlegroups.com<javascript:>
>> .
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+...@**
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>> .
wow, that looks good. I am trying to make smaller steps because I am not so good with the mechanics. I will build small tubes out of test tubes first; a glass lathe is nice but for now it is too much for me.
> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am > spending all my free time making nixies, not much time to write about > it on blog.. I am now in phase of building glass lathe again, the > previous one was of bad design..
> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a lead-in-wires > with tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them on helium leak > detector and some of them are ok! :-) So now I need the lathe to make > the envelopes and seal it..
> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers from thin > stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching proces will have to > be made more even and much much faster to prevent under-etching..
> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor > discharge welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be adjusted, > tungsten-steel welds are now really easy :-)
> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics" <webmas...@jb-electronics.de > <mailto:webmas...@jb-electronics.de>> napsal(a):
> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before
> I get a real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly,
> it is quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will
> break loose. But I could use this insulator to prevent parts of
> wires to glow.
> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would
> probably yield much better results.
> Jens
> Nice work Jens!
> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp
> colons or
> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
> probably because it is a prototype.
> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third
> try, therefore
> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See
> two pictures
> here:
> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The
> gas filling is
> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will
> switch to a
> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though
> (when I have
> enough time and money).
> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will
> be able to do
> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months
> lead time for a
> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube
> making content
> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but
> there is still
> much to do.
> Best regards
> Jens
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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> To post to this group, send an email to
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> Oh wow! Now thats some promissing progress. Cant wait to see some of your
> tubes! By the way, how big are those etched numbers?
> On Thursday, 27 September 2012 08:06:12 UTC+1, Dalibor wrote:
>> Hello!
>> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am spending
>> all my free time making nixies, not much time to write about it on blog.. I
>> am now in phase of building glass lathe again, the previous one was of bad
>> design..
>> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a lead-in-wires with
>> tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them on helium leak detector and
>> some of them are ok! :-) So now I need the lathe to make the envelopes and
>> seal it..
>> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers from thin
>> stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching proces will have to be
>> made more even and much much faster to prevent under-etching..
>> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor discharge
>> welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be adjusted, tungsten-steel
>> welds are now really easy :-)
>> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
>> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics" <webm...@jb-electronics.de>
>> napsal(a):
>>> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before I get
>>> a real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
>>> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly, it is
>>> quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will break loose. But I
>>> could use this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
>>> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would probably
>>> yield much better results.
>>> Jens
>>> Nice work Jens!
>>>> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
>>>> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
>>>> probably because it is a prototype.
>>>> Michel
>>>> On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Hi folks,
>>>>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try,
>>>>> therefore
>>>>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two pictures
>>>>> here:
>>>>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
>>>>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
>>>>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
>>>>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
>>>>> enough time and money).
>>>>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to
>>>>> do
>>>>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for a
>>>>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making
>>>>> content
>>>>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
>>>>> much to do.
>>>>> Best regards
>>>>> Jens
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>> To post to this group, send an email to neoni...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+...@**googleg**
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>>> .
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I also spent some time with glow tubes.. good practise. You mentioned that
air is much dimmer than neon - argon is not better :-( but argon is inert
and You could make glow tubes with much higher lifetime..
Go for oxy-gas torch, You will be surprised how thoroughly is possible to
heat the seals :-) I bought a cheap ($25) acetylene-oxy torch, I am using
it with gas-oxy, it works well!
> wow, that looks good. I am trying to make smaller steps because I am not
> so good with the mechanics. I will build small tubes out of test tubes
> first; a glass lathe is nice but for now it is too much for me.
> Jens
> Hello!
> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am spending
> all my free time making nixies, not much time to write about it on blog.. I
> am now in phase of building glass lathe again, the previous one was of bad
> design..
> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a lead-in-wires with
> tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them on helium leak detector and
> some of them are ok! :-) So now I need the lathe to make the envelopes and
> seal it..
> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers from thin
> stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching proces will have to be
> made more even and much much faster to prevent under-etching..
> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor discharge
> welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be adjusted, tungsten-steel
> welds are now really easy :-)
> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics" <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
> napsal(a):
>> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before I get a
>> real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
>> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly, it is
>> quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will break loose. But I
>> could use this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
>> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would probably
>> yield much better results.
>> Jens
>> Nice work Jens!
>>> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
>>> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
>>> probably because it is a prototype.
>>> Michel
>>> On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
>>> wrote:
>>>> Hi folks,
>>>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try, therefore
>>>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two pictures
>>>> here:
>>>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
>>>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
>>>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
>>>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
>>>> enough time and money).
>>>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to do
>>>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for a
>>>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making content
>>>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
>>>> much to do.
>>>> Best regards
>>>> Jens
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
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Yesterday I found devices for nixies (photolitography process for LC513 tubes). Unfortunatelly I have only "5" and "7" and "grid" templates.
I wonder about photosensitive emulssion. Any suggestions?
> Dne 27.9.2012 12:37 "kay486" <luckyl...@gmail.com > <mailto:luckyl...@gmail.com>> napsal(a):
> Oh wow! Now thats some promissing progress. Cant wait to see some
> of your tubes! By the way, how big are those etched numbers?
> On Thursday, 27 September 2012 08:06:12 UTC+1, Dalibor wrote:
> Hello!
> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am
> spending all my free time making nixies, not much time to
> write about it on blog.. I am now in phase of building glass
> lathe again, the previous one was of bad design..
> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a
> lead-in-wires with tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them
> on helium leak detector and some of them are ok! :-) So now I
> need the lathe to make the envelopes and seal it..
> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers
> from thin stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching
> proces will have to be made more even and much much faster to
> prevent under-etching..
> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor
> discharge welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be
> adjusted, tungsten-steel welds are now really easy :-)
> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics"
> <webm...@jb-electronics.de> napsal(a):
> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps
> before I get a real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator.
> Sadly, it is quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too
> hard it will break loose. But I could use this insulator
> to prevent parts of wires to glow.
> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon
> would probably yield much better results.
> Jens
> Nice work Jens!
> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with
> glow lamp colons or
> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon
> but that is
> probably because it is a prototype.
> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is
> the third try, therefore
> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab
> sample 3. See two pictures
> here:
> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet
> wire. The gas filling is
> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly
> 550V DC.
> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work.
> Will switch to a
> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months
> though (when I have
> enough time and money).
> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so,
> then I will be able to do
> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two
> months lead time for a
> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have
> the tube making content
> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up,
> but there is still
> much to do.
> Best regards
> Jens
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to
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> neoni...@googlegroups.com.
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> Yesterday I found devices for nixies (photolitography process for LC513 > tubes). Unfortunatelly I have only "5" and "7" and "grid" templates.
> I wonder about photosensitive emulssion. Any suggestions?
> W dniu 2012-09-27 22:01, Dalibor Farný pisze:
> Hello,
> Thanks, I scanned numbers from z566m, so 30mm. I plan to start on 40mm > numbers, and then go higher :-)
> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
> Dne 27.9.2012 12:37 "kay486" <luck...@gmail.com <javascript:>> napsal(a):
>> Oh wow! Now thats some promissing progress. Cant wait to see some of your >> tubes! By the way, how big are those etched numbers?
>> On Thursday, 27 September 2012 08:06:12 UTC+1, Dalibor wrote:
>>> Hello!
>>> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am spending >>> all my free time making nixies, not much time to write about it on blog.. I >>> am now in phase of building glass lathe again, the previous one was of bad >>> design..
>>> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a lead-in-wires with >>> tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them on helium leak detector and >>> some of them are ok! :-) So now I need the lathe to make the envelopes and >>> seal it..
>>> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers from thin >>> stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching proces will have to be >>> made more even and much much faster to prevent under-etching..
>>> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor discharge >>> welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be adjusted, tungsten-steel >>> welds are now really easy :-)
>>> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
>>> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics" <webm...@jb-electronics.de> >>> napsal(a):
>>>> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before I get >>>> a real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
>>>> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly, it is >>>> quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will break loose. But I >>>> could use this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
>>>> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would probably >>>> yield much better results.
>>>> Jens
>>>> Nice work Jens!
>>>>> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
>>>>> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
>>>>> probably because it is a prototype.
>>>>> Michel
>>>>> On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Hi folks,
>>>>>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try, >>>>>> therefore
>>>>>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two >>>>>> pictures
>>>>>> here:
>>>>>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
>>>>>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
>>>>>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
>>>>>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
>>>>>> enough time and money).
>>>>>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to >>>>>> do
>>>>>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for >>>>>> a
>>>>>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making >>>>>> content
>>>>>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
>>>>>> much to do.
>>>>>> Best regards
>>>>>> Jens
>>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>> To post to this group, send an email to neoni...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>>> neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>>>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neoni...@googlegroups.com<javascript:>
>> .
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>.
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group.
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> Dne 27.9.2012 12:37 "kay486" <luckyl...@gmail.com > <mailto:luckyl...@gmail.com>> napsal(a):
> Oh wow! Now thats some promissing progress. Cant wait to see some
> of your tubes! By the way, how big are those etched numbers?
> On Thursday, 27 September 2012 08:06:12 UTC+1, Dalibor wrote:
> Hello!
> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am
> spending all my free time making nixies, not much time to
> write about it on blog.. I am now in phase of building glass
> lathe again, the previous one was of bad design..
> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a
> lead-in-wires with tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them
> on helium leak detector and some of them are ok! :-) So now I
> need the lathe to make the envelopes and seal it..
> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers
> from thin stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching
> proces will have to be made more even and much much faster to
> prevent under-etching..
> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor
> discharge welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be
> adjusted, tungsten-steel welds are now really easy :-)
> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics"
> <webm...@jb-electronics.de> napsal(a):
> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps
> before I get a real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator.
> Sadly, it is quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too
> hard it will break loose. But I could use this insulator
> to prevent parts of wires to glow.
> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon
> would probably yield much better results.
> Jens
> Nice work Jens!
> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with
> glow lamp colons or
> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon
> but that is
> probably because it is a prototype.
> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is
> the third try, therefore
> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab
> sample 3. See two pictures
> here:
> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet
> wire. The gas filling is
> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly
> 550V DC.
> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work.
> Will switch to a
> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months
> though (when I have
> enough time and money).
> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so,
> then I will be able to do
> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two
> months lead time for a
> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have
> the tube making content
> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up,
> but there is still
> much to do.
Yesterday I found devices for nixies (photolitography process for polish LC513 tubes). Unfortunatelly I have only "5" and "7" and "grid" templates.
I wonder about photosensitive emulssion. Any suggestions?
>> Dne 27.9.2012 12:37 "kay486" <luckyl...@gmail.com >> <mailto:luckyl...@gmail.com>> napsal(a):
>> Oh wow! Now thats some promissing progress. Cant wait to see some
>> of your tubes! By the way, how big are those etched numbers?
>> On Thursday, 27 September 2012 08:06:12 UTC+1, Dalibor wrote:
>> Hello!
>> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I
>> am spending all my free time making nixies, not much time to
>> write about it on blog.. I am now in phase of building glass
>> lathe again, the previous one was of bad design..
>> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a
>> lead-in-wires with tungsten middle sealing part. I tested
>> them on helium leak detector and some of them are ok! :-) So
>> now I need the lathe to make the envelopes and seal it..
>> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers
>> from thin stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching
>> proces will have to be made more even and much much faster to
>> prevent under-etching..
>> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the
>> capacitor discharge welder waswaste of time :-( the new one
>> can be adjusted, tungsten-steel welds are now really easy :-)
>> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics"
>> <webm...@jb-electronics.de> napsal(a):
>> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow
>> lamps before I get a real torch, a real colon display
>> would be nice.
>> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide
>> insulator. Sadly, it is quite brittle, so if you shake
>> the tube too hard it will break loose. But I could use
>> this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
>> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon
>> would probably yield much better results.
>> Jens
>> Nice work Jens!
>> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with
>> glow lamp colons or
>> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as
>> neon but that is
>> probably because it is a prototype.
>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is
>> the third try, therefore
>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab
>> sample 3. See two pictures
>> here:
>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet
>> wire. The gas filling is
>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly
>> 550V DC.
>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work.
>> Will switch to a
>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months
>> though (when I have
>> enough time and money).
>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so,
>> then I will be able to do
>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two
>> months lead time for a
>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have
>> the tube making content
>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up,
>> but there is still
>> much to do.
>> Best regards
>> Jens
>> --
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > neonixie-l+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Yesterday I found devices for nixies (photolitography process for polish LC513 tubes). Unfortunatelly I have only "5" and "7" and "grid" templates.
I wonder about photosensitive emulssion. Any suggestions?
I also want to try to make evacuation pipe in stem, but there will be too
many wires, how do You solve the problem of wires on the place of the pipe?
I cant see that detail on your photo..
Do You think that original industry made nixies used photo-etched numbers
and anode mesh? Or it was stamped? You found a layouts or finished 5 and 7?
This is a part of mosaic what I still miss :-)
> Yesterday I found devices for nixies (photolitography process for LC513
> tubes). Unfortunatelly I have only "5" and "7" and "grid" templates.
> I wonder about photosensitive emulssion. Any suggestions?
> W dniu 2012-09-27 22:01, Dalibor Farný pisze:
> Hello,
> Thanks, I scanned numbers from z566m, so 30mm. I plan to start on 40mm
> numbers, and then go higher :-)
> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
> Dne 27.9.2012 12:37 "kay486" <luckyl...@gmail.com> napsal(a):
>> Oh wow! Now thats some promissing progress. Cant wait to see some of your
>> tubes! By the way, how big are those etched numbers?
>> On Thursday, 27 September 2012 08:06:12 UTC+1, Dalibor wrote:
>>> Hello!
>>> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am spending
>>> all my free time making nixies, not much time to write about it on blog.. I
>>> am now in phase of building glass lathe again, the previous one was of bad
>>> design..
>>> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a lead-in-wires with
>>> tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them on helium leak detector and
>>> some of them are ok! :-) So now I need the lathe to make the envelopes and
>>> seal it..
>>> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers from thin
>>> stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching proces will have to be
>>> made more even and much much faster to prevent under-etching..
>>> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor discharge
>>> welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be adjusted, tungsten-steel
>>> welds are now really easy :-)
>>> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
>>> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics" <webm...@jb-electronics.de>
>>> napsal(a):
>>>> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before I get
>>>> a real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
>>>> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly, it is
>>>> quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will break loose. But I
>>>> could use this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
>>>> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would probably
>>>> yield much better results.
>>>> Jens
>>>> Nice work Jens!
>>>>> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
>>>>> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
>>>>> probably because it is a prototype.
>>>>> Michel
>>>>> On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Hi folks,
>>>>>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try,
>>>>>> therefore
>>>>>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two
>>>>>> pictures
>>>>>> here:
>>>>>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
>>>>>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
>>>>>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
>>>>>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
>>>>>> enough time and money).
>>>>>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to
>>>>>> do
>>>>>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making
>>>>>> content
>>>>>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
>>>>>> much to do.
>>>>>> Best regards
>>>>>> Jens
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>> To post to this group, send an email to neoni...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>>>> neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>>>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> neonixie-l+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web, visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/bGqrSsvN7qkJ.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
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> --
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> "neonixie-l" group.
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> I also want to try to make evacuation pipe in stem, but there will be too many wires, how do You solve the problem of wires on the place of the pipe? I cant see that detail on your photo..
I'm curious too - that's a lot of wires for a pinch seal.
> Do You think that original industry made nixies used photo-etched numbers and anode mesh? Or it was stamped? You found a layouts or finished 5 and 7? This is a part of mosaic what I still miss :-)
Instead of starting with existing nixies, I've been playing with generating cathode graphics using computer fonts. This one is just a test, I'd probably want to use
a lighter typeface for real nixie cathodes:
> Instead of starting with existing nixies, I've been playing with
generating cathode graphics using computer fonts. This one is just a test,
I'd probably want to use
a lighter typeface for real nixie cathodes:
it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant to
achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You
will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher
current.. And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-) Once I have
working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play and change
things inside..
Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics?
> > I also want to try to make evacuation pipe in stem, but there will be
> too many wires, how do You solve the problem of wires on the place of the
> pipe? I cant see that detail on your photo..
> I'm curious too - that's a lot of wires for a pinch seal.
> > Do You think that original industry made nixies used photo-etched
> numbers and anode mesh? Or it was stamped? You found a layouts or finished
> 5 and 7? This is a part of mosaic what I still miss :-)
> Instead of starting with existing nixies, I've been playing with
> generating cathode graphics using computer fonts. This one is just a test,
> I'd probably want to use
> a lighter typeface for real nixie cathodes:
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
On Friday, 28 September 2012 14:23:40 UTC+1, jrehwin wrote:
> > I also want to try to make evacuation pipe in stem, but there will be > too many wires, how do You solve the problem of wires on the place of the > pipe? I cant see that detail on your photo..
> I'm curious too - that's a lot of wires for a pinch seal.
> > Do You think that original industry made nixies used photo-etched > numbers and anode mesh? Or it was stamped? You found a layouts or finished > 5 and 7? This is a part of mosaic what I still miss :-)
> Instead of starting with existing nixies, I've been playing with > generating cathode graphics using computer fonts. This one is just a test, > I'd probably want to use > a lighter typeface for real nixie cathodes:
> it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant to achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher current..
While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies have different currents for different digits (particularlay "1"). Since they're more-or-less constant
voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the different current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages with larger anode resistors
helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs actually use current regulation instead of anode resistors, and these will tend to overdrive
the smaller digits slightly.
That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust the digit stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas. Note that in some nixies,
the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this.
> And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-)
That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a nixie, I'd choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit shapes.
However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in making them visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a CD-66, I
can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits). If I want a nixie with Böcklin or Klingon digits, I'll have to make
my own.
There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will be more rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However,
this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width.
> Once I have working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play and change things inside..
Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the most difficult problem in making nixies.
> Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics?
Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I just heard from someone who's making custom variable
capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter.
I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating digit separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking
of glass and mica as alternatives.
> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
> Dne 27.9.2012 12:37 "kay486" <luck...@gmail.com <javascript:>> napsal(a):
>> Oh wow! Now thats some promissing progress. Cant wait to see some of your >> tubes! By the way, how big are those etched numbers?
>> On Thursday, 27 September 2012 08:06:12 UTC+1, Dalibor wrote:
>>> Hello!
>>> Nice, I am glad You are really working on it, so do I :-) I am spending >>> all my free time making nixies, not much time to write about it on blog.. I >>> am now in phase of building glass lathe again, the previous one was of bad >>> design..
>>> I made several stems from Simax (boro) glass using a lead-in-wires with >>> tungsten middle sealing part. I tested them on helium leak detector and >>> some of them are ok! :-) So now I need the lathe to make the envelopes and >>> seal it..
>>> I also did simple experiment with photo-etching of numbers from thin >>> stainless steel sheet. It works, but the etching proces will have to be >>> made more even and much much faster to prevent under-etching..
>>> I also had to build new transformer spot welder, the capacitor discharge >>> welder waswaste of time :-( the new one can be adjusted, tungsten-steel >>> welds are now really easy :-)
>>> sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
>>> Dne 27.9.2012 5:17 "jb-electronics" <webm...@jb-electronics.de> >>> napsal(a):
>>>> Thanks Michel, I am planning to do all kinds of glow lamps before I get >>>> a real torch, a real colon display would be nice.
>>>> Next, I will experiment with the aluminum oxide insulator. Sadly, it is >>>> quite brittle, so if you shake the tube too hard it will break loose. But I >>>> could use this insulator to prevent parts of wires to glow.
>>>> But I doubt that air is going to get any brighter, Argon would probably >>>> yield much better results.
>>>> Jens
>>>> Nice work Jens!
>>>>> Would be a good combination, nixie tube clock with glow lamp colons or
>>>>> something like that. It doesn't seem as bright as neon but that is
>>>>> probably because it is a prototype.
>>>>> Michel
>>>>> On Sep 27, 7:10 am, jb-electronics <webmas...@jb-electronics.de>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Hi folks,
>>>>>> finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try, >>>>>> therefore
>>>>>> I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two >>>>>> pictures
>>>>>> here:
>>>>>> It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is
>>>>>> normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC.
>>>>>> I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a
>>>>>> hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have
>>>>>> enough time and money).
>>>>>> I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to >>>>>> do
>>>>>> something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for >>>>>> a
>>>>>> silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making >>>>>> content
>>>>>> prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still
>>>>>> much to do.
>>>>>> Best regards
>>>>>> Jens
>>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>>>> To post to this group, send an email to neoni...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+...@**googleg*
>>>> *roups.com.
>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/**grou**ps/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out>
>>>> .
>>>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To post to this group, send an email to neoni...@googlegroups.com<javascript:>
>> .
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>.
>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/bGqrSsvN7qkJ.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
just a small follow-up on my first glow lamp post: I have managed to make a pinch seal using the 9mm tubing with four electrodes. The next aim is five.
It is quite easy: all you need is very small glass tubing. Just stretch 9mm tubing, and if you do it fast enough (and carefully, of course) you get very nice small tubes with diameters below 1mm. Then I just cut these to pieces of 20mm and insert a Dumet wire each and heat it up with a small handheld torch. Then I align four of these wires and use a small portion of glass to glue them together. Then comes the pinching process which is not so critical if you have ensured all the four wires stick together good. Will document that on my website soon.
So now I have a glow lamp with four more or less parallel wires... Could you call that a Nixie tube? ;-)
>> I also want to try to make evacuation pipe in stem, but there will be too many wires, how do You solve the problem of wires on the place of the pipe? I cant see that detail on your photo..
> I'm curious too - that's a lot of wires for a pinch seal.
>> Do You think that original industry made nixies used photo-etched numbers and anode mesh? Or it was stamped? You found a layouts or finished 5 and 7? This is a part of mosaic what I still miss :-)
> Instead of starting with existing nixies, I've been playing with generating cathode graphics using computer fonts. This one is just a test, I'd probably want to use
> a lighter typeface for real nixie cathodes:
"accelerated" by Dalibor I tried my photolitography devices. It's very good, even using first time! It isn't simple technology but I'm
very glad. In the second picture you have anode of nixie tube prepared from template of polish tube type LC513. Unfortunatelly I had old
photosensitive lacquer and thick metal plate (0.2 mm).
>> it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant to achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher current..
> While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies have different currents for different digits (particularlay "1"). Since they're more-or-less constant
> voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the different current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages with larger anode resistors
> helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs actually use current regulation instead of anode resistors, and these will tend to overdrive
> the smaller digits slightly.
> That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust the digit stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas. Note that in some nixies,
> the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this.
>> And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-)
> That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a nixie, I'd choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit shapes.
> However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in making them visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a CD-66, I
> can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits). If I want a nixie with B cklin or Klingon digits, I'll have to make
> my own.
> There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will be more rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However,
> this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width.
>> Once I have working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play and change things inside..
> Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the most difficult problem in making nixies.
>> Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics?
> Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I just heard from someone who's making custom variable
> capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter.
> I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating digit separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking
> of glass and mica as alternatives.
> just a small follow-up on my first glow lamp post: I have managed to > make a pinch seal using the 9mm tubing with four electrodes. The next > aim is five.
> It is quite easy: all you need is very small glass tubing. Just > stretch 9mm tubing, and if you do it fast enough (and carefully, of > course) you get very nice small tubes with diameters below 1mm. Then I > just cut these to pieces of 20mm and insert a Dumet wire each and heat > it up with a small handheld torch. Then I align four of these wires > and use a small portion of glass to glue them together. Then comes the > pinching process which is not so critical if you have ensured all the > four wires stick together good. Will document that on my website soon.
> So now I have a glow lamp with four more or less parallel wires... > Could you call that a Nixie tube? ;-)
> Jens
>>> I also want to try to make evacuation pipe in stem, but there will >>> be too many wires, how do You solve the problem of wires on the >>> place of the pipe? I cant see that detail on your photo..
>> I'm curious too - that's a lot of wires for a pinch seal.
>>> Do You think that original industry made nixies used photo-etched >>> numbers and anode mesh? Or it was stamped? You found a layouts or >>> finished 5 and 7? This is a part of mosaic what I still miss :-)
>> Instead of starting with existing nixies, I've been playing with >> generating cathode graphics using computer fonts. This one is just a >> test, I'd probably want to use
>> a lighter typeface for real nixie cathodes:
On Friday, 28 September 2012 22:06:53 UTC+1, Aleksander Zawada wrote:
> "accelerated" by Dalibor I tried my photolitography devices. It's very > good, even using first time! It isn't simple technology but I'm > very glad. In the second picture you have anode of nixie tube prepared > from template of polish tube type LC513. Unfortunatelly I had old > photosensitive lacquer and thick metal plate (0.2 mm).
> >> it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant > to achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You > will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher > current.. > > While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies have > different currents for different digits (particularlay "1"). Since they're > more-or-less constant > > voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the different > current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages with larger anode > resistors > > helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs actually use > current regulation instead of anode resistors, and these will tend to > overdrive > > the smaller digits slightly.
> > That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust the digit > stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas. Note that in some > nixies, > > the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this.
> >> And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-) > > That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a nixie, I'd > choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit shapes.
> > However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in making them > visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a CD-66, I > > can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits). If I want > a nixie with B�cklin or Klingon digits, I'll have to make > > my own.
> > There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will be more > rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However, > > this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width.
> >> Once I have working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play > and change things inside.. > > Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the most > difficult problem in making nixies.
> >> Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics? > > Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I just heard > from someone who's making custom variable > > capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter.
> > I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating digit > separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking > > of glass and mica as alternatives.
Alek, this is really outstanding result! Could I ask You what etching
chemical did You use? FeCl3? And how did You agitated the etching process,
I just immersed the metal into etching solution.. some kind of spray tank
is the best way.. did You heat the etching solution?
So the photolitography devices are original pieces? Industry made nixie's
metal parts were made using this?
I will send You 0.1mm stanless steel sheet to do another test if You want,
just send me your address to my email.
Could You please send a photo of assembled device?
> "accelerated" by Dalibor I tried my photolitography devices. It's very
> good, even using first time! It isn't simple technology but I'm
> very glad. In the second picture you have anode of nixie tube prepared
> from template of polish tube type LC513. Unfortunatelly I had old
> photosensitive lacquer and thick metal plate (0.2 mm).
> it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant to
>>> achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You
>>> will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher
>>> current..
>> While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies have different
>> currents for different digits (particularlay "1"). Since they're
>> more-or-less constant
>> voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the different
>> current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages with larger anode
>> resistors
>> helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs actually use
>> current regulation instead of anode resistors, and these will tend to
>> overdrive
>> the smaller digits slightly.
>> That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust the digit
>> stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas. Note that in some
>> nixies,
>> the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this.
>> And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-)
>> That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a nixie, I'd
>> choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit shapes.
>> However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in making them
>> visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a CD-66, I
>> can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits). If I want
>> a nixie with Böcklin or Klingon digits, I'll have to make
>> my own.
>> There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will be more
>> rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However,
>> this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width.
>> Once I have working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play
>>> and change things inside..
>> Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the most difficult
>> problem in making nixies.
>> Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics?
>> Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I just heard
>> from someone who's making custom variable
>> capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter.
>> I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating digit
>> separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking
>> of glass and mica as alternatives.
>> - John
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Photolitography devices are original pieces. It was used for polish industrial nixies, but rather for laboratory scale. When prototypes were good, manufacturing go to Dolam, Wroclaw. I suppose that there were similiar devices, but bigger.
I used hydrochloric acid with perhydrol H2O2 and pure water. I'm going to try with molybdenum foil and cupric foil for another parts, not for nixies.
I'm very tired now. That's why I must go to sleep. I promise you answer good as quick as possible.
> Alek, this is really outstanding result! Could I ask You what etching > chemical did You use? FeCl3? And how did You agitated the etching > process, I just immersed the metal into etching solution.. some kind > of spray tank is the best way.. did You heat the etching solution?
> So the photolitography devices are original pieces? Industry made > nixie's metal parts were made using this?
> I will send You 0.1mm stanless steel sheet to do another test if You > want, just send me your address to my email.
> Could You please send a photo of assembled device?
> Dne 28.9.2012 22:06 "Alek onet" <aleksander_zaw...@poczta.onet.pl > <mailto:aleksander_zaw...@poczta.onet.pl>> napsal(a):
> "accelerated" by Dalibor I tried my photolitography devices. It's
> very good, even using first time! It isn't simple technology but I'm
> very glad. In the second picture you have anode of nixie tube
> prepared from template of polish tube type LC513. Unfortunatelly I
> had old
> photosensitive lacquer and thick metal plate (0.2 mm).
> it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should
> be constant to achieve constant current and constant
> brightness of each digit (else You will have to struggle
> with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher
> current..
> While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies
> have different currents for different digits (particularlay
> "1"). Since they're more-or-less constant
> voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the
> different current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages
> with larger anode resistors
> helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs
> actually use current regulation instead of anode resistors,
> and these will tend to overdrive
> the smaller digits slightly.
> That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust
> the digit stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas.
> Note that in some nixies,
> the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this.
> And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-)
> That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a
> nixie, I'd choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit
> shapes.
> However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in
> making them visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a
> CD-66, I
> can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits).
> If I want a nixie with B�cklin or Klingon digits, I'll have
> to make
> my own.
> There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will
> be more rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However,
> this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width.
> Once I have working tube (as close as possible to
> original) I can play and change things inside..
> Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the
> most difficult problem in making nixies.
> Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics?
> Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I
> just heard from someone who's making custom variable
> capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter.
> I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating
> digit separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking
> of glass and mica as alternatives.
> - John
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