I've only tested exposures up to 80 seconds. For longer exposures, I
don't think it's necessary to disable power saving (camera already
does this while shutter is open). Not sure if extremely long exposure
times will have negative effects, so try this at your own risk.
To use, put the camera in Manual + Bulb mode, configure the timer
(between 1 and 3600 seconds) and use a remote trigger (either LCD
sensor or audio). It should also work with the intervalometer.
You can stop the long exposure at any time by half-pressing the shutter button.
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Also I've tried to implement trap focus without having to hold the
shutter; seems to work... sort of.
On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 9:55 PM, Fernando Freire <nang...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Wow!!!!. Genial, and intervalometer too. Astrophoto users are very glad,
> sure!!!
>
>
>
>
Can you post some pictures taken in this mode? I wasn't able to test
it with the stars, as there's a lot of light pollution here. Thanks.
Look around vimeo or youtube for audio tests with various microphones.
One of them is in the ML user guide.
Thanks for the reply, I have been looking at a Rode Videomic, since
they are somewhat smaller that some others and decently affordable and
have some good reviews.
On Jan 27, 4:14 pm, Ba...@aol.com wrote:
> P.S. while I have you here, can you recommend any good add on mic's for
> this camera? I do more of motorsports shooting.
>
> Word is: Even with Magic Lantern, you still need to keep the level
> adjustments at the camera fairly low because the preamp in the camera is not
> considered very good. As an early adopter of Magic Lantern, I used the
> Juiced Link CX231, which has its own preamp. It also provide phantom power
> for mics that need it, namely mics like the Rode NTG 3. Coupled with a
> decent mic and low camera setting, you can get pretty good sound.
> Typically, depending on the mic, the recommendation was to put the left and
> right digital gains on the camera at 0, and the analog gain around 10 or
> less, if you can.
Phase detection AF (which only works with mirror down) can tell
(almost) exactly the direction and the amount of rotation needed.
Focus peaking data can be used for a custom AF algorithm. I don't
think it will be much better than Canon's, but at least it can be made
not to hunt (i.e. just use a gradient descent).
Thoughts?
On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 10:38 PM, gart...@hotmail.com
<gart...@hotmail.com> wrote: