Re: [MakerBot] Digest for makerbot@googlegroups.com - 25 Messages in 6 Topics

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Zach Turner

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May 24, 2012, 4:23:37 PM5/24/12
to make...@googlegroups.com
My only beef with buying it from Makerbot is the shipping costs. Something like $15 for a single spool to Nebraska. It gets better (in $/spool) as you order more, but buying one or two spools at a time will cost you a pretty penny for shipping.

On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 3:10 PM, <make...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Group: http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot/topics

    drandolph <drando...@gmail.com> May 21 09:02PM -0700  

    I've put my laser cutter to work and I have put together some kits
    with all the laser cut parts and hardware for the hood and panels on
    the replicator.
    It has helped control the temperature and air flow in mine and really
    reduce the curling on my prints.
     
    If you're curious on what it looks like check out my derivative on
    thingiverse.com
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23386
     
    Right now I have 5 kits ready to ship and I can make more but I
    figured I would start with 5 and see how many people would be
    interested.
     
    If you want one of the kits just email me at david(at)avidquestion
    (dot)com

     

    "da...@avidquestion.com" <drando...@gmail.com> May 24 10:43AM -0700  

    I should have mentioned that.
     
    If your in the lower 48 states the price is $150 including shipping.
     
    As a side note and to make this post not look completely like spam I'm
    also playing with using a lizard tank heater pad to bring up the
    temperature of the enclosure and using the 40mm exhaust fan mount in
    the hood to regulate everything. I also plan to put a temperature
    probe in there to regulate the pad power so that will be fun to figure
    out.
     
    Here is the heat mat. http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/heat-mat.htm
     
    My plan is cut an Aluminum plate on my Plasma bed and place it on the
    bottom inside.
     
    So far the hood and panels have really helped as well as raising the
    temperature to 110-115
     
    I'm now looking for the over to top way to make it even more stable
    since the room I'm running it in fluctuates in temperature and
    humidity wildly.
    So I'll let everyone know if it makes it better or if the hood and
    panels are all that are needed.

     

    Busybotz <mle...@gmail.com> May 24 11:49AM -0700  

    I saw when this was posted in Thingiverse. Very nice, it looks like
    something that should come in the big Replicator box. At least as an
    option.
     
    My Replicator is wearing covers from the local hardware store. Very thin
    acrylic. The hard part is making the top, so I can appreciate your design.
    I wonder if you have considered offering the top cover by itself?
     

     

    "da...@avidquestion.com" <drando...@gmail.com> May 24 12:40PM -0700  

    The hood is the bulk of the parts so if you just want the hood
    assembly I could sell it for $100.
     
    BTW I agree it would be nice if they included it with their kit or had
    it as an option to buy or add on.
    Since they don't I figured I would till then. :)
     
     

     

    Doug Wire <dcw...@gmail.com> May 24 02:43PM -0500  

    I was really excited to see this! Just as i was trying to solve the problem
    myself. Thanks! Im having a local engraver do it for me since im impatient.
    On May 24, 2012 2:40 PM, "da...@avidquestion.com" <drando...@gmail.com>
    wrote:
     

     

    Busybotz <mle...@gmail.com> May 24 12:53PM -0700  

    This may not be the right place to ask, but I have been wondering... Why do
    the open frame bots such as the Mendel seem to be fine in the open air?
    What am I not understanding?
     
    Thanks for the option to order just the hood. If my solution falls to
    pieces, I will check back with you.
     
    Good luck with the kits. I would think every Replicator owner will want one
    sooner or later.
     

     

    Andrew Plumb <and...@plumb.org> May 24 03:56PM -0400  

    For the most part they're using PLA. Much more forgiving (if not better quality) in drafts.
     
    Andrew.
     
    Sent from my iPhone
     

     

    Busybotz <mle...@gmail.com> May 24 12:59PM -0700  

    Thanks Andrew. I have yet to try PLA. That is a big advantage right there.
     
    On Thursday, May 24, 2012 2:56:29 PM UTC-5, Andrew Plumb wrote:

     

    Krunical <brent...@krunity.co.za> May 24 11:52AM -0700  

    Hi guys
     
    I have just received my makerbot replicator and noticed when ever i print
    that the right extruder fan does not work . I emailed tech support and they
    suggested i check the wiring to the mother board has not come loose. I
    checked but and it was slightly loose but not enough for the fan not to
    work. Now the problem has progressed to the left extruder fan and i am
    unable to print without over heating the extruders....
     
    Has anyone els experienced this issue?
     
    can anyone help?
     
    Thanks

     

    James McCracken <merl...@gmail.com> May 24 07:40AM -0400  

    That's a good thought, but be aware that finger nail polish remover (I
    assume you're not talking about dipping your hot end in nail polish?) has
    proteins and scents added to it. If you can find it, 100% acetone is a
    better choice (look in the paint supplies aisle at Wal*mart)
     
    Keep in mind that acetone needs a little agitation to work properly with
    these small tubes and nozzles... acetone with ABS in it is MUCH thicker
    than acetone, so they don't tend to want to mix properly; you end up with a
    tube that was full of ABS and is now full of ABS with a little acetone
    dissolved in it (as opposed to what you wanted; acetone with a little ABS
    dissolved in it) so submerge, shake gently for 5 minutes, then try...
     
    Keep your acetone solution around when done, it's handy to paint the bed
    with before a print to ensure great adhesion.
     

     

    happyman <banch...@gmail.com> May 24 07:15AM -0700  

    Yes, I plan to completely place the barrel in Acetone. I will get the
    actual Acetone from Paint shop tomorrow.
     
    By the way, do you think if I just use the heater cartridge to touch
    with the barrel at 225c, will it cause the ABS inside to melt and
    remove easy and quickly? I will just hold the heater cartridge by the
    wire with adjustable wrench and using pliers to hold the barrel like
    in the pic
     
    http://i.minus.com/jma0wVd3zaXQa.jpg
     
    I haven't tried it yet as not sure if there are any drawbacks on this
    method, just curious.
     

     

    James McCracken <merl...@gmail.com> May 24 10:22AM -0400  

    My experience as a jeweler is sending warning bells; You'll have a lot of
    metal in the immediate vicinity of the barrel, it'll take a long time to
    heat up...
     
    You might be better off using a toaster oven or something like that to heat
    it up... go ahead and heat up your wrench too and use potholders to remove
    from the oven / work with the plastic.
     
    Submerging completely is good. Shaking while submerged is even better -
    the dissolved ABS really doesn't want to move out of the barrel even after
    it dissolves, it needs some persuasion to ensure a flow of fresh acetone
    through the tube.
     

     

    Peter Leppik <peter....@gmail.com> May 24 01:06PM -0500  

    As long as you have the nozzle removed, another thing to try (carefully!) is an electric drill with a drill bit a little smaller than the barrel bore.
     
    The ABS is much softer than the metal, so the drill will remove a lot of burnt plastic very fast without trying to go through the metal tube. This can also get out material which won't dissolve in acetone (because it's too scorched, or because it's PLA).
     
    -Peter
     
    On May 24, 2012, at 9:15 AM, happyman wrote:
     

     

    charlestx <cst...@gmail.com> May 24 11:59AM -0700  

    Where did you get this "new abs" from? Sounds like something we may
    want to watch out for.
     
    Thanks,
     
    Charles
     

     

    Bill <big...@gmail.com> May 24 06:30AM -0700  

    Ok...
     
    Here's the link I got the version of RepG from - the one I'm using to send
    commands:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/download:68548 (34 Beta)
     
    When I tried to actually build with that version, my axes were all wrong
    and it hit the limits - that seems to be *solved*.
    I fell back to version 29 from the same page, i.e.:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/download:68546 and everything seemed to work
    well.
     
    As far as I know, the firmware is installed. After changing the URL in
    RepG, I upgraded
    the firmware using the "Jetty" version that showed in RepG. It said it was
    successful.
     
    Perhaps, I should reflash it?
     
    And as for the values I'm using...With the exception of the change of my A
    axis (geared extruder), I kept
    all values at the default until I at least got it going.
     
    I'll go back tonight after work and reflash it and start all over, I
    guess. I can't imagine
    it didn't flash, but, the 1st thing I do when someone asks me to fix their
    computer is for
    me to ask "is it plugged in".
     
     
    Cheers,
     
    Bill

     

    Jetty <clell...@gmail.com> May 24 08:08AM -0700  

    > Perhaps, I should reflash it?
     
    That's a good idea, can't hurt and out rules a few things.
     
    Also, one really good way to test if acceleration is enabled is to
    slow the axis right down in the firmware settings.
     
    I.E. X/Y/Z Max Acceleration of 10
    X/Y/Z Jerk of 1.
     
    Failing that, the next stage will be getting a dump of eeprom to see
    what it thinks it's set to.

     

    Bill <big...@gmail.com> May 24 08:10AM -0700  

    Ok. I'm going to be home over lunch (noon EST) and I'll reflash and load
    with the values you mention to see
    what's what.
     
    If that doesn't work - I'll look into dumping the EEPROM (Don't know how
    yet, but, I'm a quick learner).
     
    Thanks for your help!!
     
    Bill

     

    Bill <big...@gmail.com> May 24 09:13AM -0700  


    > Ok...
     
     
    I'm home. Reflashed firmware and set the values to the low numbers you
    (Jetty) suggested.
    Now, it appears that acceleration is operating. I has a nice gentle speed
    up and slow down on
    all axes. I think now, I need to re-tune things to work at full speed.
     
    I'll go back to your defaults and see what that does.
     
    Bill

     

    Bill <big...@gmail.com> May 24 10:44AM -0700  

    Spent my lunch break tuning it. It appears that I still have lots of work
    to do, and it seems that
    at least for the Cupcake, the defaults are much too high. To get a smooth
    accel/decell like in your video,
    it's going to need some careful tuning - mostly down. At 100mm/s I lose Y
    steps. Perhaps a belt issue. but,
    that remains to be seen. At 80 mm/s it works, but, not as smooth as the
    video (not close).
     
    I'll play with it tonight and see what I can do.
     
    Again...Thanks you (Jetty and all who commented) for helping me with this.
    Seems like
    I learn something every day. And as soon as I think I know it all...I'm
    proven very wrong.
     
    Bill

     

    Whosawhatsis <whosaw...@gmail.com> May 24 10:08AM -0700  

    You could also re-mount the extruders so that the nozzles are farther apart. Not sure about the replicator (I think it uses a single cooling block), but the dual extruder configuration for ToM could just as easily be reversed (assuming you're not using my upgrade) so that the nozzles are on the far side from the other extruder. This would make the method possible with much larger objects.
     
    I don't know of anyone who has tried this, but I've thought about doing it on a Mendel-style printer using two X carriages mounted to the same belt.
     
     
    On Wednesday, May 23, 2012 at 8:34 PM, Shawn wrote:
     

     

    alex e <alexand...@hotmail.com> May 24 08:57AM -0700  

    I have had a good experience with repraper as well, no need to
    contact, was able to do everything via the website. Good plastic, a
    little thinner than Makerbot, but consistent. If you are using an
    unmodified MK7/8 with plunger you might have some trouble.
     
    Also, ordered on a Friday, had it on Wednesday. From China! Takes
    longer than that from Brooklyn..
     
     
     

     

    Chris Brent <chris...@gmail.com> May 24 10:05AM -0700  

    I got some 1.75mm black (giant spool) and red (unspooled)
    from http://ultimachine.com/ Great, quick, service and really good
    filament. There was even a generous PLA sample in the package they sent.
     
     
    On Wednesday, May 23, 2012 9:38:56 PM UTC-7, Bellorophon wrote:

     

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