I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38
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> I would remove the heat exchanger , take a very long drill bit that easily fits into the channels, and hand twist through the salt deposits.
> Ron Acierno
> Director, PTSD Clinical Team RHJ VAMC Charleston SC
> Professor, Psychiatry
> Medical University South Carolina
> Executive Director
> Veterans on Deck 501c3
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 17, 2012, at 4:18 AM, Capn_Earl <mike.e.ni...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
>> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
>> Any other ideas?
>> Capn_Earl
>> Voyager CR38
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That I did too. Had it looked at by an experienced sailor who said it was
"pristine clean". I used a steel rod. Was not too crusty to start with
but "boiled it" in vinegar as recommended by this person. Came out very
clean as a result.
Capn_Earl
Voyager CR38
Currently in Orange Beach, Al.
On Sat, Nov 17, 2012 at 10:29 AM, ron Gmail <acie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I would remove the heat exchanger , take a very long drill bit that easily
> fits into the channels, and hand twist through the salt deposits.
> Ron Acierno
> Director, PTSD Clinical Team RHJ VAMC Charleston SC
> Professor, Psychiatry
> Medical University South Carolina
> Executive Director
> Veterans on Deck 501c3
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 17, 2012, at 4:18 AM, Capn_Earl <mike.e.ni...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
> Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
> 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
> sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
> it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
> cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
> the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
> corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
> but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
> them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
> temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38
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The problem with the drill idea or using welding rods or straight wire is that if you have any kind of sharp edge on it as you push it down the holes you risk puncturing the holes making it useless or unknowingly draining out your fresh water coolant into the Sea.
There are a whole lot of "green" products to soak that thing in.
Also, depending where your Zinc is on the heat exhanger or somewhere else, it could have broken off and blocking the flow in the system.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 4:18:55 AM UTC-8, Capn_Earl wrote: > I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 > Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's > 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will > sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when > it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, > cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from > the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was > corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor > but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting > them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some > temps.
> The problem with the drill idea or using welding rods or straight wire is that if you have any kind of sharp edge on it as you push it down the holes you risk puncturing the holes making it useless or unknowingly draining out your fresh water coolant into the Sea.
> There are a whole lot of "green" products to soak that thing in.
> Also, depending where your Zinc is on the heat exhanger or somewhere else, it could have broken off and blocking the flow in the system.
> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 4:18:55 AM UTC-8, Capn_Earl wrote:
>> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
>> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
>> Any other ideas?
>> Capn_Earl
>> Voyager CR38
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I have a bottle in my garage but it was raining so hard I couldn't get out
there.
From the Salish Sea
48' 34.099 Degrees North
123' 10.456 Degrees West
Norris & Karen Palmer
Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of curtis hoffman
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 10:04 AM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] Re: overheating on Universal M-50
RYDLYME does the whole deal. My marina gets big money descaling engines and
heat exchangers using it.
Paul 42-16
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 17, 2012, at 12:59 PM, Fragile Habitat <4pal...@centurytel.net>
wrote:
The problem with the drill idea or using welding rods or straight wire is
that if you have any kind of sharp edge on it as you push it down the holes
you risk puncturing the holes making it useless or unknowingly draining out
your fresh water coolant into the Sea.
There are a whole lot of "green" products to soak that thing in.
Also, depending where your Zinc is on the heat exhanger or somewhere else,
it could have broken off and blocking the flow in the system.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 4:18:55 AM UTC-8, Capn_Earl wrote:
I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
it is under load that it overheats.)
I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
temps.
Any other ideas?
Capn_Earl
Voyager CR38
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
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What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality brand can make all the difference.
For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.
I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used. I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands. Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same: http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try :-)
Best wishes,
Keith Laker
'Briez' NE400-14
On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e.ni...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "caborico" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/caborico/-/X0M8LE9ZKYEJ.
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Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every 500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is what has been in it.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
> Earl,
> What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a > quality brand can make all the difference.
> For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated > problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all > the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed > the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the > over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.
> I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the > shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal > on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used. > I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed > out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised > water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline > anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
> Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had > told me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of > anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands. > Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the > same: http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
> I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a > try :-)
> Best wishes,
> Keith Laker > 'Briez' NE400-14
> On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com <javascript:>> > wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 > Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's > 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will > sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when > it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, > cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from > the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was > corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor > but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting > them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some > temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl > Voyager CR38
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "caborico" group. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msg/caborico/-/X0M8LE9ZKYEJ. > To post to this group, send email to cabo...@googlegroups.com<javascript:> > . > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > caborico+u...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/caborico?hl=en.
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Capn_Earl
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Cc: ktla...@googlemail.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar
bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every
500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years
and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance
records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat
came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is
what has been in it.
Thanks Keith.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
Earl,
What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality
brand can make all the difference.
For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems
with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual
culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the
problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp
alarm would go off within minutes.
I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the
shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal
on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used.
I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out
the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water
instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze
in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told
me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of
anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands.
Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same:
http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try
:-)
Best wishes,
Keith Laker
'Briez' NE400-14
On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com <javascript:> >
wrote:
I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
it is under load that it overheats.)
I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
temps.
Any other ideas?
Capn_Earl
Voyager CR38
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.
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<javascript:> .
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
> From the Salish Sea
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West
> Norris & Karen Palmer
> <image003.png>
> Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
> From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Capn_Earl
> Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
> To: caborico@googlegroups.com
> Cc: ktla...@googlemail.com
> Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
> Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every 500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is what has been in it.
> Thanks Keith.
> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
> Earl,
> What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality brand can make all the difference.
> For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.
> I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used. I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
> Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands. Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same: http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
> I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try :-)
> Best wishes,
> Keith Laker
> 'Briez' NE400-14
> On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "caborico" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/caborico/-/X0M8LE9ZKYEJ.
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> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to caborico+u...@googlegroups.com.
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> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "caborico" group.
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "caborico" group.
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No not that I know of. This is it but you will find a lot of good people
and excellent info here.
Larry Barker
Venteux
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 18, 2012, at 6:36 AM, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <_4pal...@centurytel.net_ (mailto:4pal...@centurytel.net) > wrote:
I am a new member to the group. Does the group have a owners web site? From the Salish Sea 48’ 34.099 Degrees North 123’ 10.456 Degrees West Norris & Karen Palmer <image003.png> Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz From: _caborico@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com)
[_mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com) ] On Behalf Of Capn_Earl
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
To: _caborico@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com) Cc: _ktla...@googlemail.com_ (mailto:ktla...@googlemail.com) Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50 Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every 500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is what has been in it.
Thanks Keith.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
Earl,
What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality brand can make all the difference.
For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.
I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used. I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try :-)
Best wishes,
Keith Laker
'Briez' NE400-14
On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <_mike.e...@gmail.com_ (javascript:) > wrote:
I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - _www.avg.com_ (http://www.avg.com/) Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
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> From the Salish Sea
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West
> Norris & Karen Palmer
> <image003.png>
> Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
> From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Capn_Earl
> Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
> To: caborico@googlegroups.com
> Cc: ktla...@googlemail.com
> Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
> Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every 500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is what has been in it.
> Thanks Keith.
> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
> Earl,
> What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality brand can make all the difference.
> For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.
> I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used. I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
> Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands. Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same: http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
> I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try :-)
> Best wishes,
> Keith Laker
> 'Briez' NE400-14
> On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "caborico" group.
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I am having a Cabo Rico Northeast 400 being surveyed to-day.
It sure is a great design for the Pacific Northwest.
From the Salish Sea
48' 34.099 Degrees North
123' 10.456 Degrees West
Norris & Karen Palmer
Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Cab...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 7:05 AM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
We had one at one time, but we all started using this. Anyway welcome to the
group.
Breck Caine CR 38 #19
In a message dated 11/18/2012 7:11:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Capn_Earl
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Cc: ktla...@googlemail.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar
bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every
500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years
and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance
records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat
came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is
what has been in it.
Thanks Keith.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
Earl,
What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality
brand can make all the difference.
For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems
with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual
culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the
problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp
alarm would go off within minutes.
I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the
shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal
on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used.
I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out
the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water
instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze
in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told
me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of
anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands.
Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same:
http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try
:-)
Best wishes,
Keith Laker
'Briez' NE400-14
On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com <javascript:> >
wrote:
I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
it is under load that it overheats.)
I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
temps.
Any other ideas?
Capn_Earl
Voyager CR38
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/> Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
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ON the website: we have a rudimentary page that's basically a placeholder
for a few files that the group here has uploaded. BUt first, the wealth of
information is on the group archives, which I'm sure you found already on
Google Groups.
The documents are linked to from http://www.croa.us/ mickey
On Sun, Nov 18, 2012 at 11:15 AM, Norris & Karen Palmer <
> Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar
> bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every
> 500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years
> and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance
> records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The
> boat came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that
> is what has been in it.
> Thanks Keith.
> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:****
> Earl,****
> ****
> What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a
> quality brand can make all the difference. ****
> ****
> For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated
> problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all
> the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed
> the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the
> over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.****
> ****
> I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the
> shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal
> on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used.
> I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed
> out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised
> water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline
> anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.****
> ****
> Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had
> told me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of
> anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands.
> Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the
> same: http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf****
> ****
> I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a
> try :-)****
> ****
> Best wishes,****
> ****
> ****
> Keith Laker****
> 'Briez' NE400-14****
> ****
> ****
> On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com> wrote:****
> ****
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
> Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
> 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
> sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
> it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
> cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
> the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
> corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
> but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
> them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
> temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38****
> ****
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "caborico" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/caborico/-/X0M8LE9ZKYEJ.
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> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> caborico+u...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/caborico?hl=en.****
> ****
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "caborico" group.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/caborico/-/uqc0tJZT3TMJ.
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> ****
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12*
> ***
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "caborico" group.
> To post to this group, send email to caborico@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/caborico?hl=en.****
> --
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> "caborico" group.
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> http://groups.google.com/group/caborico?hl=en.****
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12*
> ***
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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Hey, sounds like fun! I hope all goes well with the survey and purchase.
We've owned NE 400 hull number 14 for 12 years now and still can't think of a better combination out there. It's a good sailboat - and can be exceptionally good on certain points of sail. That considerable beam makes her very stiff and comfortable when motoring too. However - for a motorsailer, I think the engine noise can be intrusive. It might have improved on later boats. What hull number are you buying?
Best wishes
Keith Laker
On Nov 18, 2012, at 16:15, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net> wrote:
> I am having a Cabo Rico Northeast 400 being surveyed to-day.
> It sure is a great design for the Pacific Northwest.
> From the Salish Sea
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West
> Norris & Karen Palmer
> <image003.png>
> Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
> From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Cab...@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 7:05 AM
> To: caborico@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
> We had one at one time, but we all started using this. Anyway welcome to the group.
> Breck Caine CR 38 #19
> In a message dated 11/18/2012 7:11:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, ldcbar...@aol.com writes:
> No not that I know of. This is it but you will find a lot of good people and excellent info here.
> Larry Barker
> Venteux
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 18, 2012, at 6:36 AM, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net> wrote:
> I am a new member to the group.
> Does the group have a owners web site?
> From the Salish Sea
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West
> Norris & Karen Palmer
> <image003.png>
> Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
> From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Capn_Earl
> Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
> To: caborico@googlegroups.com
> Cc: ktla...@googlemail.com
> Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
> Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every 500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is what has been in it.
> Thanks Keith.
> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
> Earl,
> What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality brand can make all the difference.
> For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.
> I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used. I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
> Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands. Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same: http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
> I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try :-)
> Best wishes,
> Keith Laker
> 'Briez' NE400-14
> On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "caborico" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/caborico/-/X0M8LE9ZKYEJ.
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "caborico" group.
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
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I actually don't know we have just done the survey and its being written up
and its not on yachtworld.
Its good to hear about it especially all the write ups so favorable.
We currently have a Fisher 34 motor sailer with a Westerbeke 69 hp.
This boat seems so comfortable and spacious and bright.
You can get to the engine with no problems, lots of storage, you can do
everything without having to go out on deck.
You know the rest!
From the Salish Sea
48' 34.099 Degrees North
123' 10.456 Degrees West
Norris & Karen Palmer
Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Keith Laker
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 11:53 AM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
Hey, sounds like fun! I hope all goes well with the survey and purchase.
We've owned NE 400 hull number 14 for 12 years now and still can't think of
a better combination out there. It's a good sailboat - and can be
exceptionally good on certain points of sail. That considerable beam makes
her very stiff and comfortable when motoring too. However - for a
motorsailer, I think the engine noise can be intrusive. It might have
improved on later boats. What hull number are you buying?
Best wishes
Keith Laker
On Nov 18, 2012, at 16:15, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net>
wrote:
Thank you,
I am having a Cabo Rico Northeast 400 being surveyed to-day.
It sure is a great design for the Pacific Northwest.
From the Salish Sea
48' 34.099 Degrees North
123' 10.456 Degrees West
Norris & Karen Palmer
<image003.png>
Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Cab...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 7:05 AM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
We had one at one time, but we all started using this. Anyway welcome to the
group.
Breck Caine CR 38 #19
In a message dated 11/18/2012 7:11:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Capn_Earl
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Cc: ktla...@googlemail.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar
bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every
500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years
and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance
records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat
came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is
what has been in it.
Thanks Keith.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
Earl,
What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality
brand can make all the difference.
For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems
with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual
culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the
problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp
alarm would go off within minutes.
I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the
shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal
on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used.
I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out
the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water
instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze
in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told
me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of
anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands.
Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same:
http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try
:-)
Best wishes,
Keith Laker
'Briez' NE400-14
On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com <javascript:> >
wrote:
I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
it is under load that it overheats.)
I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
temps.
Any other ideas?
Capn_Earl
Voyager CR38
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No virus found in this message.
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Fisher! good looking boats.I saw a fisher catamaran one time. IT looked
like two monohulls with a bit in-between. Met the guys briefly on the La
Trappe creek in MD.
Y
On Sun, Nov 18, 2012 at 8:13 PM, Norris & Karen Palmer <
4pal...@centurytel.net> wrote:
> I actually don’t know we have just done the survey and its being written
> up and its not on yachtworld.****
> ** **
> Its good to hear about it especially all the write ups so favorable.****
> ** **
> We currently have a Fisher 34 motor sailer with a Westerbeke 69 hp.****
> ** **
> This boat seems so comfortable and spacious and bright.****
> ** **
> You can get to the engine with no problems, lots of storage, you can do
> everything without having to go out on deck.****
> ** **
> You know the rest!****
> ** **
> *From the Salish Sea*
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North****
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West****
> Norris & Karen Palmer****
> ****
> Photo by *Mayaswhalewatch.biz*****
> ** **
> *From:* caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Keith Laker
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 18, 2012 11:53 AM
> *To:* caborico@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50****
> ** **
> Hey, sounds like fun! I hope all goes well with the survey and purchase.
> ****
> ** **
> We've owned NE 400 hull number 14 for 12 years now and still can't think
> of a better combination out there. It's a good sailboat - and can be
> exceptionally good on certain points of sail. That considerable beam makes
> her very stiff and comfortable when motoring too. However - for a
> motorsailer, I think the engine noise can be intrusive. It might have
> improved on later boats. What hull number are you buying?
> Best wishes****
> ** **
> Keith Laker****
> On Nov 18, 2012, at 16:15, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net>
> wrote:****
> Thank you,****
> ****
> I am having a Cabo Rico Northeast 400 being surveyed to-day.****
> ****
> It sure is a great design for the Pacific Northwest.****
> ****
> ****
> ****
> *From the Salish Sea*****
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North****
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West****
> Norris & Karen Palmer****
> <image003.png>****
> Photo by *Mayaswhalewatch.biz*****
> ****
> *From:* caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com<caborico@googlegroups.com>]
> *On Behalf Of *Cab...@aol.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 18, 2012 7:05 AM
> *To:* caborico@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50****
> ****
> We had one at one time, but we all started using this. Anyway welcome to
> the group.****
> ****
> Breck Caine CR 38 #19 ****
> ****
> In a message dated 11/18/2012 7:11:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> ldcbar...@aol.com writes:****
> No not that I know of. This is it but you will find a lot of good people
> and excellent info here.****
> Larry Barker****
> Venteux
> Sent from my iPhone****
> On Nov 18, 2012, at 6:36 AM, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <
> 4pal...@centurytel.net> wrote:****
> Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar
> bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every
> 500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years
> and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance
> records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The
> boat came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that
> is what has been in it.
> Thanks Keith.
> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:****
> Earl,****
> ****
> What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a
> quality brand can make all the difference. ****
> ****
> For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated
> problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all
> the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed
> the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the
> over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.****
> ****
> I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the
> shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal
> on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used.
> I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed
> out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised
> water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline
> anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.****
> ****
> Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had
> told me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of
> anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands.
> Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the
> same: http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf****
> ****
> I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a
> try :-)****
> ****
> Best wishes,****
> ****
> ****
> Keith Laker****
> 'Briez' NE400-14****
> ****
> ****
> On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com> wrote:****
> ****
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
> Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
> 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
> sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
> it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
> cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
> the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
> corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
> but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
> them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
> temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38****
> ****
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "caborico" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/caborico/-/X0M8LE9ZKYEJ.
> To post to this group, send email to cabo...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> caborico+u...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/caborico?hl=en.****
> ****
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "caborico" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/caborico/-/uqc0tJZT3TMJ.
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> ****
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12*
> ***
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "caborico" group.
> To post to this group, send email to caborico@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> caborico+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/caborico?hl=en.****
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "caborico" group.
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12*
> ***
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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> --
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release
Funnily enough when I bought Briez, the only other boat seriously in contention was as Fisher 34! That had the reputation of having the best sailing performance of all the Fishers. (Sorry - I've taken this thread rather off topic)
Keith Laker
Sent from my mobile
On 19 Nov 2012, at 01:13, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net> wrote:
> I actually don’t know we have just done the survey and its being written up and its not on yachtworld.
> Its good to hear about it especially all the write ups so favorable.
> We currently have a Fisher 34 motor sailer with a Westerbeke 69 hp.
> This boat seems so comfortable and spacious and bright.
> You can get to the engine with no problems, lots of storage, you can do everything without having to go out on deck.
> You know the rest!
> From the Salish Sea
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West
> Norris & Karen Palmer
> <image003.png>
> Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
> From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Keith Laker
> Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 11:53 AM
> To: caborico@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
> Hey, sounds like fun! I hope all goes well with the survey and purchase.
> We've owned NE 400 hull number 14 for 12 years now and still can't think of a better combination out there. It's a good sailboat - and can be exceptionally good on certain points of sail. That considerable beam makes her very stiff and comfortable when motoring too. However - for a motorsailer, I think the engine noise can be intrusive. It might have improved on later boats. What hull number are you buying?
> Best wishes
> Keith Laker
> On Nov 18, 2012, at 16:15, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net> wrote:
> Thank you,
> I am having a Cabo Rico Northeast 400 being surveyed to-day.
> It sure is a great design for the Pacific Northwest.
> From the Salish Sea
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West
> Norris & Karen Palmer
> <image003.png>
> Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
> From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Cab...@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 7:05 AM
> To: caborico@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
> We had one at one time, but we all started using this. Anyway welcome to the group.
> Breck Caine CR 38 #19
> In a message dated 11/18/2012 7:11:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, ldcbar...@aol.com writes:
> No not that I know of. This is it but you will find a lot of good people and excellent info here.
> Larry Barker
> Venteux
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 18, 2012, at 6:36 AM, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net> wrote:
> I am a new member to the group.
> Does the group have a owners web site?
> From the Salish Sea
> 48’ 34.099 Degrees North
> 123’ 10.456 Degrees West
> Norris & Karen Palmer
> <image003.png>
> Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
> From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Capn_Earl
> Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
> To: caborico@googlegroups.com
> Cc: ktla...@googlemail.com
> Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
> Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every 500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is what has been in it.
> Thanks Keith.
> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
> Earl,
> What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality brand can make all the difference.
> For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp alarm would go off within minutes.
> I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used. I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
> Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands. Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same: http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
> I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try :-)
> Best wishes,
> Keith Laker
> 'Briez' NE400-14
> On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some temps.
> Any other ideas?
> Capn_Earl
> Voyager CR38
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "caborico" group.
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
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> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5896 - Release Date: 11/15/12
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On Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:18:55 AM UTC-5, Capn_Earl wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 > Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's > 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will > sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when > it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, > cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from > the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was > corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor > but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting > them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some > temps.
The Fisher is a True, heavy get you anywhere solid vessel, but the Cabo 400
is just so much more roomier and comfortable. Getting on and off is so
great, the visual through the pilot house is great, getting to the engine is
great, the head and shower is great, the galley is gormet, inside and
outside steering, never having to get on deck in howling winds to reef,
can't wait.
From the Salish Sea
48' 34.099 Degrees North
123' 10.456 Degrees West
Norris & Karen Palmer
Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Keith Laker
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 11:19 PM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Cc: <caborico@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
Funnily enough when I bought Briez, the only other boat seriously in
contention was as Fisher 34! That had the reputation of having the best
sailing performance of all the Fishers. (Sorry - I've taken this thread
rather off topic)
Keith Laker
Sent from my mobile
On 19 Nov 2012, at 01:13, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net>
wrote:
I actually don't know we have just done the survey and its being written up
and its not on yachtworld.
Its good to hear about it especially all the write ups so favorable.
We currently have a Fisher 34 motor sailer with a Westerbeke 69 hp.
This boat seems so comfortable and spacious and bright.
You can get to the engine with no problems, lots of storage, you can do
everything without having to go out on deck.
You know the rest!
From the Salish Sea
48' 34.099 Degrees North
123' 10.456 Degrees West
Norris & Karen Palmer
<image003.png>
Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Keith Laker
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 11:53 AM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
Hey, sounds like fun! I hope all goes well with the survey and purchase.
We've owned NE 400 hull number 14 for 12 years now and still can't think of
a better combination out there. It's a good sailboat - and can be
exceptionally good on certain points of sail. That considerable beam makes
her very stiff and comfortable when motoring too. However - for a
motorsailer, I think the engine noise can be intrusive. It might have
improved on later boats. What hull number are you buying?
Best wishes
Keith Laker
On Nov 18, 2012, at 16:15, "Norris & Karen Palmer" <4pal...@centurytel.net>
wrote:
Thank you,
I am having a Cabo Rico Northeast 400 being surveyed to-day.
It sure is a great design for the Pacific Northwest.
From the Salish Sea
48' 34.099 Degrees North
123' 10.456 Degrees West
Norris & Karen Palmer
<image003.png>
Photo by Mayaswhalewatch.biz
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Cab...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 7:05 AM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
We had one at one time, but we all started using this. Anyway welcome to the
group.
Breck Caine CR 38 #19
In a message dated 11/18/2012 7:11:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Capn_Earl
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:08 PM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Cc: ktla...@googlemail.com
Subject: Re: [caborico] overheating on Universal M-50
Wow, this is very interesting Keith. I read in the link of the Yanmar
bulletin that you attached they also recommend draining the coolant every
500 hours or every year, whichever comes first. I've had Voyager two years
and have never changed the coolant. I do not see from any maintenance
records that it has been changed out by the previous owner either. The boat
came with some Prestone antifreeze leftover in a jug so I assume that is
what has been in it.
Thanks Keith.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 9:46:48 PM UTC-5, Keith Laker wrote:
Earl,
What quality of anti-freeze do you use? A cheap brand compared to a quality
brand can make all the difference.
For the first few years of our ownership of 'Briez' I had repeated problems
with the Yanmar 4JH UTE overheating. Like you, I ran through all the usual
culprits and cleaned out the heat exchanger twice. Nothing fixed the
problem for long - at anything like 85% or more of full power the over-temp
alarm would go off within minutes.
I ultimately spoke about this with a Yanmar representative at one of the
shows. He admitted that the cooling circuit capacity was a little marginal
on that particular engine model, but he asked me what anti-freeze I used.
I had been using just something cheap - but at his suggestion I flushed out
the system with a mild acid cleaner and a). filled it with ionised water
instead of tap water and b). put some quality Texaco Havoline anti-freeze
in. We've never had a recurrence of the problem since.
Frankly I was amazed and would have been sceptical if someone else had told
me this. As I recall the Yanmar rep. told me that cheap brands of
anti-freeze have much higher levels of silicate in them than decent brands.
Have a look at page 4 of the following link which seems to confirm the same:
http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
I appreciate it's a different engine to yours, but it might be worth a try
:-)
Best wishes,
Keith Laker
'Briez' NE400-14
On 17 Nov 2012, at 12:18, Capn_Earl <mike.e...@gmail.com <javascript:> >
wrote:
I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
it is under load that it overheats.)
I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
temps.
Any other ideas?
Capn_Earl
Voyager CR38
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...
Had a mechanic looking at the engine with me today. There is an oil pressure sensor that the previous owner had added. We noticed that it was showing a high reading when idling - 60 psi when it should have been around 20 psi or so. We changed oil and filter to see if we could bring that down. We disconnected the high temp alarm at the gauge to determine if it was the oil pressure causing the alarm or the high temp when we went out for a sea trial.
Once out the engine temp gauge began to creep up to 180 but went no higher. The mechanic used the heat gun sensor and saw no place on the engine, besides the exhaust, was over 158 degrees. The oil pressure gauge remained at low 60's - still too high. But the new fireboy CO monitor that I had installed was beeping every 30 seconds with the green light on - the manual indicated that the voltage to it was too low, thus the beeping. We saw that the engine was not charging the batteries per the link2000. Then the system did begin charging and all three sensors began to behave correctly - the oil pressure gauge went to 40 psi, the temp gauge went to 165, the heat sensor still read 158 degrees and the Fireboy quit chirping.
Fiver or ten minutes later the system again quit showing a charge and the gauges corresponded to their erroneous levels, a sign of some electrical problem. Over 20 minutes it went off and on about three times. I was somewhat relieved to know that we have at least cleared the engine of significant problems. (However, I still want to flush the freshwater system as you had mentioned Keith.)
A side note - when back at the dock without any shore power, the link2000 shows battery bank 1 at a 12.65 V level and battery bank 2 at 12.7 V. The Fireboy behaves as it should in this condition.
I have to leave the boat for several weeks but will post what we find in our next big adventure chasing this down. Thanks for everyone's input.
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:18:55 AM UTC-5, Capn_Earl wrote:
> I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996 > Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's > 2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will > sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when > it is under load that it overheats.)
> I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt, > cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from > the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was > corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor > but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting > them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some > temps.
From: caborico@googlegroups.com [mailto:caborico@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Capn_Earl
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 3:54 PM
To: caborico@googlegroups.com
Subject: [caborico] Re: overheating on Universal M-50
Latest update:
Had a mechanic looking at the engine with me today. There is an oil
pressure sensor that the previous owner had added. We noticed that it was
showing a high reading when idling - 60 psi when it should have been around
20 psi or so. We changed oil and filter to see if we could bring that down.
We disconnected the high temp alarm at the gauge to determine if it was the
oil pressure causing the alarm or the high temp when we went out for a sea
trial.
Once out the engine temp gauge began to creep up to 180 but went no higher.
The mechanic used the heat gun sensor and saw no place on the engine,
besides the exhaust, was over 158 degrees. The oil pressure gauge remained
at low 60's - still too high. But the new fireboy CO monitor that I had
installed was beeping every 30 seconds with the green light on - the manual
indicated that the voltage to it was too low, thus the beeping. We saw that
the engine was not charging the batteries per the link2000. Then the system
did begin charging and all three sensors began to behave correctly - the oil
pressure gauge went to 40 psi, the temp gauge went to 165, the heat sensor
still read 158 degrees and the Fireboy quit chirping.
Fiver or ten minutes later the system again quit showing a charge and the
gauges corresponded to their erroneous levels, a sign of some electrical
problem. Over 20 minutes it went off and on about three times. I was
somewhat relieved to know that we have at least cleared the engine of
significant problems. (However, I still want to flush the freshwater system
as you had mentioned Keith.)
A side note - when back at the dock without any shore power, the link2000
shows battery bank 1 at a 12.65 V level and battery bank 2 at 12.7 V. The
Fireboy behaves as it should in this condition.
I have to leave the boat for several weeks but will post what we find in our
next big adventure chasing this down. Thanks for everyone's input.
Capn_Earl
Voyager CR38
On Saturday, November 17, 2012 7:18:55 AM UTC-5, Capn_Earl wrote:
I'm looking for advice about a stubborn overheating problem on my 1996
Universal M-50. Engine runs at about 165 degrees until I push it into it's
2,000-2500 RPM range, then it overheats starting at 180 degrees. (It will
sit at dock in neutral and run 2000-2500 without a problem, it is just when
it is under load that it overheats.)
I've addressed the usual suspects: impeller, thermostat, tightened belt,
cleaned the heat exchanger, coolant is topped off, verified water flow from
the seacock through to the exhaust elbow, inspected elbow (there was
corrosion built up and had to dislodge it). I have not replaced the sensor
but thought it was at least reading different temp levels and reporting
them, but... My next step is getting someone with a heat gun to shoot some
temps.
Any other ideas?
Capn_Earl
Voyager CR38
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