a7v266-e cmos ram clear jumper problem
Englander
to remove then replace the jumper to clear the cmos memory, but when I
turned the comp back on it didnt start, the jumpre was not on in the first
place, so I figured there was a problem...
removed the jumper and the system started up OK, but now I loose my CMOS
settings every time I remove the plug from the machine. Its a new
battery, (checked and gives 3v) so I'm wondering if I have damaged
something
If so anyone know how serious that is? apart from being a pain every time
you remove mains power. Can I repair it?
Morgan
say
> to remove then replace the jumper to clear the cmos memory, but when I
> turned the comp back on it didnt start, the jumpre was not on in the first
> place, so I figured there was a problem...
If you read page 24 of the manual you will see that the procedure is
different to the one that you describe that you followed.
Helping my friend with setting up this board I realised that there are
plenty of jumpers that really need to be set correctly for it to function.
As I posted in one of your other threads you need to ensure that all the
jumpers and dip switches are in the correct position.
Good luck
--
Regards
Morgan
My noisy drive is now fixed....
http://www.flyinglizard.freeserve.co.uk
Englander
> If you read page 24 of the manual you will see that the procedure is
> different to the one that you describe that you followed.
pretty sure when i first did this the jumper was only sitting on one of
the pair of pins...
step 3 short the jumper by removing and replacing the cap
you short something electrical by connecting it, not removing it...
dont you?
So when I saw jumper on only one pin I assumed it meant
a) remove from single pin
b) connect to both pins
c) then remove again and place back on one pin...????
If I turn on the
computer with the jumper connecting the two pins, the power does not even
come on when you press the power switch. (unless that is something really
weird to do with the way round i have the power switch connected... think
its right...)
with the jumper on only one pin it looses settings after power off...
(like the battery is not in???) but it does power on and seeems to
run reliably
but a pain that I have to reset date and cpu speed every power off
any suggestions?
>
> Helping my friend with setting up this board I realised that there are
> plenty of jumpers that really need to be set correctly for it to function.
> As I posted in one of your other threads you need to ensure that all the
> jumpers and dip switches are in the correct position.
>
yep, the only problem i have is with that jumper I think
which ones (connections / jumpers) did you have problems with particularly
Englander
> On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 23:08:00 +0100, Morgan wrote:
>
>> If you read page 24 of the manual you will see that the procedure is
>> different to the one that you describe that you followed.
>
> pretty sure when i first did this the jumper was only sitting on one of
> the pair of pins...
weird, just shows you should assume nothing, I had removed the jumper
completely assuming there was a problem, but this time I left it sitting
on one of the pins and its working OK now, saves my settings, cool
so how does that work then???
Thanks for the inspiration to try out some things...
Morgan
When I downloaded the manual it was to help my friend when he called round
with his PC box. So even though I noted that on page 24 the procedure was
different to what you described I myself have never needed to reset the
jumper or remove the battery from his board.
What I did notice though was the huge amount of jumpers and blocks of dip
switches that give you manual control over the settings or can be set so
that the bios can be used as a means of adjustment.
Either way they are critical in being set right.
> Thanks for the inspiration to try out some things...
You are welcome. So hopefully you no longer have a need to buy a board now.
[s]arrow
recognised that this was erroneus (check
http://www.a7vtroubleshooting.com/).
I think we can claim a new board, but for me is not worthy: is an old board,
and the only draw back is the same as you don't have any battery to retain
BIOS settings.
Greets, [s]arrow.
"Englander" <speci...@blueyonder.co.uk> escribió en el mensaje
news:pan.2003.10.04....@blueyonder.co.uk...
Morgan
position.
Deathwish
Put the jumper on (short the pins together) to clear the CMOS.
Remove the jumper (place jumper on one pin) for normal operation.
Do not leave the jumper on for normal operation!
"Englander" <speci...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pan.2003.10.05....@blueyonder.co.uk...
We Live For The One We Die For The One
I fucked the same board, manual was wrong.
Was a year ago ???
Do you think i could get a refund ?
Though it was my fault untill about 8 months later when i read the
manual was wrong.
I got the same board with the Raid worked great ever since.
Englander
> If I remember correctly, that was a misprint in the manual. It should read:
>
> Put the jumper on (short the pins together) to clear the CMOS.
> Remove the jumper (place jumper on one pin) for normal operation.
>
> Do not leave the jumper on for normal operation!
>
seems to be
a) remove jumper to reset
b) leave jumper on single pin of pair for normal operation
thats what works on my board anyway....
(left hand pin on my board looking from cpu end of board (pin furthest
from battery))
Englander
> On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 02:22:59 +0000, Deathwish wrote:
>
>> If I remember correctly, that was a misprint in the manual. It should read:
>>
>> Put the jumper on (short the pins together) to clear the CMOS.
>> Remove the jumper (place jumper on one pin) for normal operation.
>>
>> Do not leave the jumper on for normal operation!
>>
but in retrospect I am not sure, you may be right.... definitely leave on
one pin for normal ops....
Englander
>>> Do not leave the jumper on for normal operation!
>
> but in retrospect I am not sure, you may be right.... definitely leave on
> one pin for normal ops....
Just noticed it still seems to loose time while powered off, so, maybe
something is knacked on the board when I tried to power up with the jumper
across both pins....
I will try just having the jumper on the other pin and a few battery type
things, but its wierd, keeps settings, but clock no longer increments
while power off???
Paul
<speci...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
The damaged part could be a three legged common cathode dual diode,
that has "K45" printed on the top in small letters. The nearest substitute
I can find is a BAS40-05 common cathode schottky diode (based on matching
the K45 marking and the fact it is a schottky dual diode). This part is
usually near the CMOS battery, has three legs, and the designation printed
on the board next to it (in white letters) will be Dxx, where xx
is a number, like D10 or the like. There may be better devices for
this application (like a BAT54C, which has higher leakage, but a
lower forward voltage drop), but the BAS40-05 matches the marking on
the top of the device.
These dual diodes come in two sizes -
This one is the BAS40-05 and comes in a larger SOT-23 package ($0.64)
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/us/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=52780&Row=279678
This one is the BAS40W-05 and comes in a smaller SOT-323 package ($0.80)
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/us/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=53476&Row=171482
The BAS40 can be looked up here, for a datasheet with dimensions on
it. The BAS40 and BAS40W links are shown here for your convenience:
http://www.diodes.com
http://www.diodes.com/tracker/pdftracker.php?page=http://www.diodes.com/product_catalog/search.php&ds=ds11006.pdf
http://www.diodes.com/tracker/pdftracker.php?page=http://www.diodes.com/product_catalog/search.php&ds=ds30114.pdf
With a magnifying glass, it looks like the smaller SOT-323 is
being used on the spare Asus motherboard I have here. The pads on the
motherboard, look like they might be big enough to use either part.
If you are unfamiliar with rework techniques, I recommend finding a
repair shop that can handle SMT. While I've worked with a lot of
boards in the past without damaging them, I managed to remove a copper
pad from an Asus board while changing a chip - the copper is thinner
than I'm used to and the PCB isn't very delamination resistant.
If you cannot find anyone locally, there is "Homey" in the Abit group,
and maybe he has done this repair before (gary at motherboardrepair
dot com or http://motherboardrepair.com). In Europe, there is
"BigBadger", whose email is bigbadger at btinternet
dot com.
I have no idea if this is covered by the Asus warranty. It should be,
considering it is a stupid design, and the manual is wrong.
HTH,
Paul
P.S. It would be nice if Asus would release a correction to the manual...