I'd like to clean up the model and then assemble it. I figure that I really
need to strip most or all of the red enamel off as a first step., or I'll
never cover it with white.
I've gathered from posts here that brake fluid, oven cleaner, etc. have been
used by people to remove paint. Is there a method that would work on such
old enamel, that won't destroy the plastic, my lungs, or melt my hand off?
There are no glue joints to worry about, and the clear pieces are not
involved, if that has a bearing on which product to choose.
I'm more willing to spend time than money, within reason. I don't mind a
multi-step process, as opposed to a miracle cure, but it doesn't make sense
to buy $25 worth of chemicals to restore a $10 kit.
Thanks for any advice.........
-Bill
--
SPAM block e-mail in use.
Check out my USCG model kit list at
http://www.tiac.net/users/billkaja/kitlist.htm
Castrol Super Clean, in the automotive area of any good department store. It
comes in gallon jugs. I put a 40 year old car model in a plastic container.
Next day, used a toothbrush to get it spandy-clean. Took maybe 10 minutes,
but I'm picky...
WinBear
"SAK!" "SAK!" "SAK!"
Here's a review:
http://modelingmadness.com/ads/sak.htm
Also, we can now take credit card orders via PayPal. Just use my Email address
to place your order. "dog...@blackfoot.net"
A single bottle of "Strip-A-Kit" is $8 + $3.50 for S&H via USPS Priority Mail.
Two bottles are more of a bargain totalling $19.00 which includes S&H.
Again, I apologize to those modelers outside the Continental USA. Due to very
stringent international mail and small package shipping regulations, we are not
ALLOWED to ship this product anywhere but within the CONUS.
Rick Fluke
Hangar 3 Arlee
dog...@blackfoot.net
>I often feel like that commercial on TV - The AFLAC Duck...........
>
>"SAK!" "SAK!" "SAK!"
>
>Here's a review:
>
>http://modelingmadness.com/ads/sak.htm
>A single bottle of "Strip-A-Kit" is $8 + $3.50 for S&H via USPS Priority
>Mail.
>Two bottles are more of a bargain totalling $19.00 which includes S&H.
>
...and the best part is, it really works! No messy, fumey oven cleaners either!
Heck, you can open a bottle, take a paintbrush and "paint" it on only the parts
you wish to strip! That's convenience!
MRLMMD:
Marty Oberman, Jr.
(Pen...@aol.com)
"There is no spoon..."
My thanks to all for their responses.
-Bill
"Penmod" <pen...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020227235232...@mb-mr.aol.com...
Bill: Thanks to the real time effectiveness of the I-Net, I have received
notification of your payment and the package will be going out this afternoon.
PayPal sure beats the heck out of a one week turn around with the mails.
Cheers!
Yes. Brake fluid, oven cleaner, etc.
> I'm more willing to spend time than money, within reason. I don't
mind a
> multi-step process, as opposed to a miracle cure, but it doesn't make
sense
> to buy $25 worth of chemicals to restore a $10 kit.
I understand. As a basically cheap bastard, I always go for the
low-cost solution first. You can get DOT3 brake fluid for a buck a pint
in a lot of discount stores. I wouldn't use it in anything I *drive*,
but it works well on a lot of old paints. Next, I move to oven cleaner
(messier, more expensive, still less than the commercial strippers) if
the brake fluid doesn't work. Finally, the commercial kit strippers if
all else fails. If I had stopped at stripping my first 3 kits, I could
have limited it to brake fluid ...
--
C.R. Krieger
"Don't argue with 'em, dear; they're beneath our dignity." - W.C. Fields
--
one love
rasta 4 I
jah bill
"C.R. Krieger" <war...@lakefieldDOT.net> wrote in message
news:3c7eb258$0$3036$39ce...@news.twtelecom.net...