new flywheel balancing

[Sean O'Reilly]

i removed my 1971 1600 dual port engine over the weekend to replace the
main oil seal. i have since decided to also replace the flywheel and
clutch pressure plate with new, stock components - both were pretty
badly grooved from a worn out clutch disc. i have looked in the
bentley, haynes, clymer & tom wilson's rebuild book for guidance on how
to achieve correct / optimal balance when using NEW flywheels & pressure
plates. all the above only discuss indexing/marking your existing
pieces for reassembly. the balancing cut-out holes on the flywheels &
pressure plates that l have looked at in person & in the above manuals
always seem to be in different locations, meaning i can't really use my
original, indexed pieces as a guide (i don't think). how can i solve
this problem, or does it even matter since i am using new stuff? were
engines, flywheels & clutch plates balanced separately & then assembled,
or were all 3 balanced together when fully assembled? what would
happen if one were to buy a new / rebuilt engine w/o flywheel & press.
plate? this seemingly simple problem has turned into a real dilemma
that has me stumped. if anyone can provide any guidance, i would
really appreciate it. thanks in advance.

[Joe Cali - Next Generation]

Find a machine shop have them clean up the flywheel surface than they bolt
the clutch and fly wheel together and balance them together. Then they mark
each part so you can put the disk in and match up the marks. Think about
lightening if you want a bit more speed on take off.
Joe.

Sean O'Reilly <Sea...@webtv.net> wrote in article
<16362-38...@storefull-171.iap.bryant.webtv.net>...

[Veeduber]

> i have looked in the
>bentley, haynes, clymer & tom wilson's rebuild book for guidance on how
>to achieve correct / optimal balance when using NEW flywheels & pressure
>plates. all the above only discuss indexing/marking your existing
>pieces for reassembly. the balancing cut-out holes on the flywheels &
>pressure plates that l have looked at in person & in the above manuals
>always seem to be in different locations, meaning i can't really use my
>original, indexed pieces as a guide (i don't think). how can i solve
>this problem,

Easy. Take your old flywheel & pressure plate to the balance shop along with
your new flywheel and pressure plate and ask for a 'match-balance'. Just be
sure you have preserved the orientation of the original flywheel relative to
the crankshaft... and that you install the new, match-balanced flywheel with
the same orientation.

If your local automotive machine shop doesn't do match-balancing (most do),
you'll have to pay the freight to ship the 40# or so of flywheels & pressure
plates to a shop that does, such as Kennedy (KEP) up in Palmdale.

-Bob Hoover

[Jan Andersson]

Maybe not useful in this case, but my opinion is that you should always
split the case and balance the crank, flywheel and clutch at the same
time, it's a great opportunity to replace all bearings too. Which is a
must if you are "rebuilding" an old engine, and especially if you are
hotrodding one. Splitting the case isn't that hard.

Jan

[PEPPE]

I know that VW made balancing on single parts.
They were not balanced as a unit.
Usually new flywheel are already balanced.
It is better to strip down the engine and having all correctly balanced.
In mine motors I usually balance first the crank and gears, then another
balancing with pulley, then with flywheel, so I will not have to rebalance
the total assembly if I will have to change the flywheel.
PEPPE

Sean O'Reilly ha scritto:

> i removed my 1971 1600 dual port engine over the weekend to replace the
> main oil seal. i have since decided to also replace the flywheel and
> clutch pressure plate with new, stock components - both were pretty

> badly grooved from a worn out clutch disc. i have looked in the

> bentley, haynes, clymer & tom wilson's rebuild book for guidance on how
> to achieve correct / optimal balance when using NEW flywheels & pressure
> plates. all the above only discuss indexing/marking your existing
> pieces for reassembly. the balancing cut-out holes on the flywheels &
> pressure plates that l have looked at in person & in the above manuals
> always seem to be in different locations, meaning i can't really use my
> original, indexed pieces as a guide (i don't think). how can i solve

[TypeI67]

>Easy. Take your old flywheel & pressure plate to the balance shop along with
>your new flywheel and pressure plate and ask for a 'match-balance'. Just be
>sure you have preserved the orientation of the original flywheel relative to
>the crankshaft... and that you install the new, match-balanced flywheel with
>the same orientation.
>
>If your local automotive machine shop doesn't do match-balancing (most do),
>you'll have to pay the freight to ship the 40# or so of flywheels & pressure
>plates to a shop that does, such as Kennedy (KEP) up in Palmdale.
>
>-Bob Hoover

Is that Palmdale CA?

David
67 Bug

[Wolfvan88]

If you lighten the flywheel add counterweights to the crank to reduce the
harmonics that the weight in the flywheel dampened otherwise the bearing will
not last long.

Robert

[Jan Andersson]

If you lighten the flywheel, and then add counterweights on the crank,
you are right back where you started from. Doesn't make any sense.

Jan

[Tim Klopfenstein]

>
>If you lighten the flywheel add counterweights to the crank to reduce the
>harmonics that the weight in the flywheel dampened otherwise the bearing will
>not last long.
>
>Robert

That could be Robert, but I am one of those rare people with a 6 year old GEX
engine and a lightened flywheel. I doubt that they added any counterweights
but my engine runs flawlessly and I drive my bus to work 3 or 4 days a week. I
have to drive my bug sometimes to keep the battery up.
Timk11
71 bus Sunbeam
70 bug