SMAW coffee cans?
Ecnerwal
put much money into it, nor can it be too heavy. So, I have coffee cans.
If I had OA or TIG I'd be all set, but I still have not come up with
funds for either. I do have stick, and did get in some of the smaller
sizes of 6013 with the idea that it might be useful for this sort of
idiocy. I can probably stick to welding on the rims of the can where
they are thicker.
Any tips (that don't involve buying a new machine)?
Yes, I realize that it will rust out in short order.
--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by
Roy J
get pretty dicey. I doubt if you would be able to run anything
more than some tack welds.
Zorro
cans. I've practiced welding soup cans together with a baby MIG and had a rough
time. I would never say impossible but in my experience it will have to be quick
starts and stops.
Some other ideas:
Put ice water into one can first.
Use a heatproof caulking on the leaks.
Rent an O/A set and braze.
Go the local CC and have a student TIG it.
Ernie Leimkuhler
Ecnerwal <Lawren...@SOuthernVERmont.NyET> wrote:
I used a Geo-Metro muffler on a small Powermate Generator.
It worked fine.
Ecnerwal
Ernie Leimkuhler <er...@stagesmith.com> wrote:
> I used a Geo-Metro muffler on a small Powermate Generator.
> It worked fine.
...and if you look back, you'll find that I (probably among others)
suggested using a car muffler when you were asking how to quiet it down.
Glad it worked out.
The present engine is on equipment that I'm being allowed to use, but
which I don't feel comfortable significantly modifying, as I don't own
it - hanging a car muffler off if it would mean needing to support the
car muffler. I've bought a replacement of the orginal, laughable
muffler, which was a whopping $8.35. This leaves me with the remaining
part of the original muffler, and a desire to see, in a quick and dirty
fashion, if I can cobble up something a whole lot quieter by making the
thing quite a bit larger, while still being light enough to be hung out
on the end of a pipe that's screwed into the motor (that is the total
mounting mechanisim). If I can weld on some coffee cans and poke
appropriate holes in them, this seams feasible. It's not required, it's
more recreational "can I do this", and it if works the owner of the
equipment might appreciate it. Otherwise I'll suggest that he get a
small car muffler.
If it works reasonable well, and I eventually get a TIG torch to go with
my machine, I might reprise it in SS. If it's a total hunk of crap,
there's always the new replacement.
tony
can't cost too much money.
not sure what the temps are like in that
muffler, however.
-tony
if you want to stick weld it, i'd suggest some
backup strips on the inside. maybe some thin flats
formed into circles, if i understand the question
correctly.
Dan Caster
metal with flanges so they can be attached with sheet metal screws.
Welding on the can itself will take a better man than me. Maybe
silver solder using a little propane torch.
I would go to your local scrap yard and look for some more suitable
metal. My local scrap yard sells steel at 20 cents a lb. So some
suitable steel would be less than a dollar. You might also look at
your local Salvation Army store. If you could find something like a
stainless steel thermos..........
Dan
"Zorro" <Zo...@juno.com> wrote in message
R. Duncan
Ecnerwal
fi...@bellsouth.net (R. Duncan) wrote:
> Ear plugs are cheap and quick.
I use them. It's still irritating, and less loud would be less
irritating.
Leo Lichtman
^^^^^^^^^^
I'm pretty sure you can buy tape that's made for repairing muffler leaks. A
combination of tape and pop rivets will get you an assembly, though ugly,
that will probably do the job.
Another possibility is to use soft solder on the joints that are not too
close to the cylinder. I agree it will get hot, and not be very strong, but
along with pop rivets, it will act as a sealant. Since the coffee cans have
a lot of surface area and are in the open air, chances are they will not be
hot enough to melt the solder.
jerry_tig2003
> I want to prototype a better muffler for a small engine. I don't want to
> put much money into it, nor can it be too heavy. So, I have coffee cans.
>
> If I had OA or TIG I'd be all set, but I still have not come up with
> funds for either. I do have stick, and did get in some of the smaller
> sizes of 6013 with the idea that it might be useful for this sort of
> idiocy. I can probably stick to welding on the rims of the can where
> they are thicker.
>
> Any tips (that don't involve buying a new machine)?
>
Depending on the sort of stick machine you have, you may be able to
get a tig torch for it. That would make the job doable. Getting decent
pipe may be cheaper, though.
Or you could rent.
Or you could have it done.
Or you could put a copper shim under your weld in the hope that it
will absorb the heat and that the weld will not stick to it.
Or you could glue the whole set, or use rivets, screws, whatever...
JTMcC
JTMcC.
"Ecnerwal" <Lawren...@SOuthernVERmont.NyET> wrote in message
news:LawrenceSMITH-EB8...@news.verizon.net...
Jim Seals
I built a muffler for an old welding machine using some 4" thin wall
conduit scrap. I used the original rusted out muffler for the mount
and it worked pretty well. It was quieter than the original, but
somewhat heavier. Doesn't seem to be causing a problem. Good luck.. Jim
Jim Seals
Jimmy
well. We used it at a lake cabin for several years till we sold the place.
"Ecnerwal" <Lawren...@SOuthernVERmont.NyET> wrote in message
news:LawrenceSMITH-EB8...@news.verizon.net...
Young
"Ecnerwal" <Lawren...@SOuthernVERmont.NyET> wrote in message
I have a miller thunderbolt ac machine and I have done just what you are
trying to do. I have read that the 6013 was the rod to use for sheet metal,
but i found that it burned through too often. I used 3/32 and 1/8 rods. I
didn't know about the 1/16 at the time. I ended up using a 1/8 rod 6011 and
running the temp as low as I could get it. I stitched it on opposing sides
till I covered the area. You can weld the rims or the flat this way. I did
both. I will say that a smaller rod will probably work better, but my
muffler is still working with the unconventional stitching. The rod sticks
badly and I had to get use to it before I could do it well. by the time I
was through I could run a short stitch with out sticking. I used a dremel
for the grinder and had a clean start and finish each time.
Scott Young