Chain & sprocket tips
Nige
grinder :)
Any tips?
--
Nige,
Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue
Pete Fisher
<de...@btinternet.com> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an
>angle grinder :)
>
>Any tips?
>
If it warms up a bit I am going to attack the same job on the SO YZ250
later. The biggest problem with that is likely to be getting the gearbox
sprocket nut off. I've been soaking it in Plusgas for the last few days
whilst waiting for a new tab washer[1] to arrive. I'm hoping I won't
need the rattle gun to loosen it, but it looks like it has been on there
for some time.
Assuming the new chain is already the correct number of pitches there
aren't many gotchas.
I will be using a split link as it's only 520 chain on a gutless two
stroke, so I will make sure the little fish is swimming in the right
direction.
[1] The original one has nothing left to safely peen over.
--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: Pe...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
Wicked Uncle Nigel
<de...@btinternet.com> typed
>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an
>angle grinder :)
>
>Any tips?
Loosen the font sprocket nut *BEFORE* you cut the chain.
--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - "He's hopeless, but he's honest"
"Environmentally, it is our duty to re-use our plastic bags.
To suffocate our children" - Frankie Boyle.
The Older Gentleman
> Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
> grinder :)
>
> Any tips?
Don't remove the chain until you've loosened off the gearbox sprocket.
Seriously.
Best way of jamming the sprocket while you apply welly to the nut is to
put the thing in gear and jam a broomstick or something through the rar
wheel.
And that won't work if, in a fit of early enthusiasm, you've cut through
the chain and removed it first.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER GN250 Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
The Older Gentleman
> Nige <de...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
> > Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
> > grinder :)
> >
> > Any tips?
>
> Don't remove the chain until you've loosened off the gearbox sprocket.
>
> Seriously.
>
> Best way of jamming the sprocket while you apply welly to the nut is to
> put the thing in gear and jam a broomstick or something through the rar
> wheel.
>
> And that won't work if, in a fit of early enthusiasm, you've cut through
> the chain and removed it first.
Fuck. Ginged by WUN by two minutes.
Pete Fisher
Nigel <w...@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Nige
><de...@btinternet.com> typed
>>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an
>>angle grinder :)
>>
>>Any tips?
>
>Loosen the font sprocket nut *BEFORE* you cut the chain.
>
Indeed, though you can get away with it sometimes on a big, high
compression, single. What would be your advice regarding locking
everything up? I'm sure Nige is big enough to possibly adopt the foot on
rear brake while leaning over the bike strategy, whereas I usually have
to resort to jamming something suitable in an appropriate place.
Gyp
>> Best way of jamming the sprocket while you apply welly to the nut is to
>> put the thing in gear and jam a broomstick or something through the rar
>> wheel.
>>
>> And that won't work if, in a fit of early enthusiasm, you've cut through
>> the chain and removed it first.
>
> Fuck. Ginged by WUN by two minutes.
>
>
He probably had the password for the .rar
--
Gyp
GSX1300RZ R80RT R65RS TDR250
replace .co.uk with .com to reply
boxerboy
>
> Any tips?
>
Clean the bike, turn garage heater on, lay all tools out next to the
bike,
Phone Bonwick and offer lots of free beer and Curry!
Boxerboy
Pete Fisher
<b...@bensalesDOTME.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:50:26 +0000, Pete Fisher
><Pe...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>In communiqu� <4hFSV6w7...@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk>, Wicked Uncle
>>Nigel <w...@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>>>Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Nige
>>><de...@btinternet.com> typed
>>>>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an
>>>>angle grinder :)
>>>>
>>>>Any tips?
>>>
>>>Loosen the font sprocket nut *BEFORE* you cut the chain.
>>>
>>
>>Indeed, though you can get away with it sometimes on a big, high
>>compression, single. What would be your advice regarding locking
>>everything up?
>
>the spokes of the rear wheel and swing arm to lock that and then me
>standing on another bit of scaffold pole on a breaker bar to shift the
>front sprocket nut. At one point the back wheel was off the ground.
Sounds like when I did the GFR. I'm hoping that much force won't be
required on the YZ seeing as it has olde worlde 'wire' spoked wheels.
With luck I can wedge something between the (also to be replaced) rear
sprocket and the swinging arm.
Beav
"Nige" <de...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:7usaih...@mid.individual.net...
> Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
> grinder :)
>
> Any tips?
GAMI
--
Beav
VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19
Beav
"Pete Fisher" <Pe...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:kEk+GoFy...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk...
> In communiqu� <4hFSV6w7...@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk>, Wicked Uncle
> Nigel <w...@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>>Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Nige
>><de...@btinternet.com> typed
>>>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
>>>grinder :)
>>>
>>>Any tips?
>>
>>Loosen the font sprocket nut *BEFORE* you cut the chain.
>>
>
> Indeed, though you can get away with it sometimes on a big, high
> compression, single. What would be your advice regarding locking
> everything up?
A third foot on the brake pedal or (if all the sprox are being changed like
they should be) stick a socket extention bar on the bottom run of the chain
and rotate the back wheel until the bar jams into the rear sprocket. Using a
rattler is far less of a burden for the job that a breaker bar and
(possibly) a length of scaff tubing.
>I'm sure Nige is big enough to possibly adopt the foot on rear brake while
>leaning over the bike strategy, whereas I usually have to resort to jamming
>something suitable in an appropriate place.
It's what I do if I don't have anyone with a foot going spare.
Nige
Do i need any locking shit on the htreads when i refit the nut?
Andy Bonwick
You're joking. I hate removing front sprockets and would sooner let a
dealer do the job.
Andy Bonwick
wrote:
snip>
>Do i need any locking shit on the htreads when i refit the nut?
Just remember to use the tab washer in the way it was designed to be
used.
steve auvache
<de...@btinternet.com> writes
>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
>grinder :)
>
>Any tips?
Get a shaftie.
--
steve auvache
VN750 Third gear has scope.
The Older Gentleman
Those Honda ones with a little plate and two 10mm bolts that screw into
the sprocket itself: those are great. The "one big nut" jobbies are a
PITA,
Pip Luscher
>On my GSXR750 I needed the chain on, a piece of scaffold pole between
>the spokes of the rear wheel and swing arm to lock that and then me
>standing on another bit of scaffold pole on a breaker bar to shift the
>front sprocket nut. At one point the back wheel was off the ground.
Jeez. I can't recall ever having a sprocket nut that tight.
--
-Pip
Pip Luscher
(The Older Gentleman) wrote:
>Best way of jamming the sprocket while you apply welly to the nut is to
>put the thing in gear and jam a broomstick or something through the rar
>wheel.
>
>And that won't work if, in a fit of early enthusiasm, you've cut through
>the chain and removed it first.
Actually, if you do cut the chain first by mistake, it isn't the end
of the world. You only need one run to take the strain, the other run
only needs to take enough load to keep the chain on the sprockets, so
a ty-wrap or bit of wire twisted through the cut end links will hold
it well enough.
DAMHIKIJD, OK?
--
-Pip
Andy Bonwick
I tried an extension on the breaker bar after locking the back wheel
solid and still couldn't shift the nut on my 10R. I also tried using
my compressor with a 1/2" impact tool and nothing moved.
Nige
I'm off to the shed soon.....
wessie
news:1jekqdy.9lcuascey1n0N%totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk:
> Andy Bonwick <nos...@bonwick.me.uk> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 03:09:11 -0800 (PST), boxerboy
>> <ianp...@ukonline.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >>
>> >> Any tips?
>> >>
>> >Clean the bike, turn garage heater on, lay all tools out next to the
>> >bike,
>> >Phone Bonwick and offer lots of free beer and Curry!
>> >
>> You're joking. I hate removing front sprockets and would sooner let a
>> dealer do the job.
>
> Those Honda ones with a little plate and two 10mm bolts that screw into
> the sprocket itself: those are great. The "one big nut" jobbies are a
> PITA,
>
>
My first experience of doing a C&S kit was on a Honda Dommie with the 2
bolts/plate arrangement. Quite an easy job with the bike balanced on a beer
crate under the engine.
After a while I needed to do my other bike. A VFR750FJ. I thought it would
be an easy job too...
--
wessie at tesco dot net
BMW R1150GS
c...@nospam.netunix.com
>
> On my GSXR750 I needed the chain on, a piece of scaffold pole between
> the spokes of the rear wheel and swing arm to lock that and then me
> standing on another bit of scaffold pole on a breaker bar to shift the
> front sprocket nut. At one point the back wheel was off the ground.
The rattle gun would have it sorted in a few seconds.
--
03 GS500K2
76 Honda 400/4 project
68 Bantam D14/4 Sport (Classic)
06 Sukida SK50QT (Slanty eyed shopping trolley)
Pip
On Loz's ZZR1100, we had all sorts going on, to absolutely no avail.
Once Big Nick the Man Mountain arrived, we sat Loz on the bike to lock
both brakes on and provide balance and counterweight: I had the job of
keeping the 1" drive socket on the nut, located in the breaker bar and
on the axle stand under it as a pivot.
We put Big Nick on the scaffold pole, the length of which placed him
beyond the rear wheel. All in place, strain taken, BN straightened his
legs - and the back of the bike came off the ground and it all moved
forward. We moved the bike so that the front tyre abutted the dwarf
wall on the end of the patio and did it again.
The bike went up horizontally, and just as it got to the top of the
dwarf wall - the nut finally let go with a resounding bang.
We dunno how much torque we'd got on that - but to lift Loz+ZZR two
feet into the air, quite a bloody lot, mate. They can get tight.
--
Pip: B12
The Older Gentleman
The Older Gentleman
Holy crap. I wonder what sort of machine Kawasaki use to put the damn
thing on?
Pete Fisher
<ginge...@gmail.com> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>Pip Luscher wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 11:37:22 +0000, Ben <b...@bensalesDOTME.uk> wrote:
>>
>> > On my GSXR750 I needed the chain on, a piece of scaffold pole
>> > between the spokes of the rear wheel and swing arm to lock that and
>> > then me standing on another bit of scaffold pole on a breaker bar
>> > to shift the front sprocket nut. At one point the back wheel was
>> > off the ground.
>>
>> Jeez. I can't recall ever having a sprocket nut that tight.
>
>
>feet into the air, quite a bloody lot, mate. They can get tight.
>
I've had a heater on in the garage while summoning up the sinews.
I might as well get some practice as the chances are I will be wanting
to swap front sprocket sizes quite often. The problem is that this one
has been rusting in place for a minimum of four years, and the previous
owner obviously didn't follow Andy's tab washer advice. There are small
projections of torn off washer on every flat of the nut.
A quick cup of coffee and then I'm going in - I may be some time.
Pete Fisher
<Pe...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>
>I've had a heater on in the garage while summoning up the sinews.
>I might as well get some practice as the chances are I will be wanting
>to swap front sprocket sizes quite often. The problem is that this one
>has been rusting in place for a minimum of four years, and the previous
>owner obviously didn't follow Andy's tab washer advice. There are small
>projections of torn off washer on every flat of the nut.
>
>A quick cup of coffee and then I'm going in - I may be some time.
>
Well the fates were smiling on me this afternoon.
Cleaned up the ragged tab washer bits as much as possible, put it in to
5th and jammed a large bolt in to one of the lightening holes on the
rear sprocket to nestle against the swinging arm.
FFS - it needs a socket larger than anything I have got. In desperation
I discovered that a FOAD 7/8 BS[1] ring spanner was a good fit. Worth a
try anyway. One good heave and it was free!
One slight problem is that a 15 tooth gearbox sprocket slightly fouls
the swinging arm chain protection. Nothing that can't be easily sorted
should I find such high gearing is needed. I'm putting the smallest
available 47 alloy on the rear (standard is 49) as I can go right down
to 12 on the front if required. Judging by how it felt on the 13/50 it
has been on, I'm going to try 14/47 first. I'd rather be geared too high
for the first practice than rev the nuts off it and blow it up. Just got
to cut the chain to the optimum length now to allow the full range if
possible.
I wonder how Nige is getting on?
[1] What's that going to be in metric - 32mm?
Pip Luscher
>We dunno how much torque we'd got on that - but to lift Loz+ZZR two
>feet into the air, quite a bloody lot, mate. They can get tight.
From your and Mr B's posts, must be Kwak thing.
--
-Pip
Nige
Nowt i had was big enough, so i changed the undertray, what a fucking job,
everything is in there.
The cunt that had it before cut it down & made a cunt of it.
The lock for the rear seat is a proper bog huggng ringreamer of a bastards
fuckjuice to do.
Oil & filter tomorrow, need to find the size of the fucking nut too.
Not a wasted afternoon.
Pete Fisher
<de...@btinternet.com> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>Pete Fisher wrote:
>>
>> FFS - it needs a socket larger than anything I have got. In desperation
>> I discovered that a FOAD 7/8 BS[1] ring spanner was a good fit. Worth a
>> try anyway. One good heave and it was free!
>>
>> I wonder how Nige is getting on?
>>
>SNAP FFS!
>
It took me by surprise because for some reason I expected it to be a
30mm.
>Nowt i had was big enough, so i changed the undertray, what a fucking
>job, everything is in there.
>
>The cunt that had it before cut it down & made a cunt of it.
>
>The lock for the rear seat is a proper bog huggng ringreamer of a
>bastards fuckjuice to do.
That fiddly eh?
>
>Oil & filter tomorrow, need to find the size of the fucking nut too.
>
Fairly large (36 ?) at a guess. Hopefully you can google it.
>Not a wasted afternoon.
>
>
That's something.
Pip
> FFS - it needs a socket larger than anything I have got. In
> desperation I discovered that a FOAD 7/8 BS[1] ring spanner was a
> good fit.
>
> [1] What's that going to be in metric - 32mm?
33.02mm according to the chart here:
http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/~psc/spanner_jaw.html#Jaw_Size_Table
It's good to see somebody keeping the old tools handy.
I consigned all my big old spanners and sockets to a cardboard box,
then found that I was forever in there, especially for larger sized
stuff. They now reside in the bottom of toolbox#4 for ease of access.
--
Pip: B12
Nige
Sounds like the crank bolt i need to get off the 90 i am retro fitting
power steering to :(
Pete Fisher
<ginge...@gmail.com> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>Pete Fisher wrote:
>
>
>> FFS - it needs a socket larger than anything I have got. In
>> desperation I discovered that a FOAD 7/8 BS[1] ring spanner was a
>> good fit.
>>
>> [1] What's that going to be in metric - 32mm?
>
>33.02mm according to the chart here:
>
>http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/~psc/spanner_jaw.html#Jaw_Size_Table
>
What a useful site. It was a tad slack, so I'm guessing 32 should be
snug, but I'll go shopping armed with the old nut (I acquired a new one
just in case when ordering the tab washer to make the postage seem more
reasonable). This on-line parts ordering lark is a boon compared to the
old days. A J Sutton seem to stock everything for it, at a price.
>It's good to see somebody keeping the old tools handy.
>
>I consigned all my big old spanners and sockets to a cardboard box,
>then found that I was forever in there, especially for larger sized
>stuff. They now reside in the bottom of toolbox#4 for ease of access.
>
This is a Britool chromed double-ended (7/8 & 1 BS) ring spanner, so
featuring built in breaker bar capability. I purchased it in the 31
CSR/Monza outfit days and it has been pressed in to service for various
bodges over the intervening thirty years. I also keep one or two
imperial sockets handy that can sometimes help persuade slightly
butchered metric hex stuff off if hammered on.
Lozzo
>
> Oil & filter tomorrow, need to find the size of the fucking nut too.
I'm pretty sure it's 34mm. If not it'll be 36mm but I really don't
think it is because I've never bothered buying a 36mm socket and done
plenty of C+S on R1s etc.
--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Tourer, CBR600F-W racebike in the making, TS250C, RD400F
(somewhere)
Garage clearout - Yamaha SpazzTrakka 250 for sale, email for details
Nige
> Nige wrote:
>
>>
>> Oil& filter tomorrow, need to find the size of the fucking nut too.
>
> I'm pretty sure it's 34mm. If not it'll be 36mm but I really don't
> think it is because I've never bothered buying a 36mm socket and done
> plenty of C+S on R1s etc.
>
>
I see it seems to be 36mm, but i'm gonna get a set of big sockets anyhow.
SP
I'm wondering why they put the smallest, lightest guy on the bike in
first place.
--
Lesley
Residing in the Capital of Culture 2008
CBR600FW
Peugeot 206 S
SBS#11 (with oak-leaf cluster)
BOTAFOT#101A UKRMHRC#12
BONY#54P BOB#18
Pip
Position of highest risk, innit. Expendable spic, see - if it had gone
bang in a bad way he could have been flung ... feet.
We didn't really expect the thing to go up in the air - shoving it
forwards is one thing, but vertically up a wall, with the front wheel
locked is something else entirely. He looked a little worried ;-)
--
Pip: B12
Andy Bonwick
>On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 13:56:06 +0000 (UTC), c...@NOSPAM.netunix.com
>wrote:
>
>>Ben <b...@bensalesdotme.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>> On my GSXR750 I needed the chain on, a piece of scaffold pole between
>>> the spokes of the rear wheel and swing arm to lock that and then me
>>> standing on another bit of scaffold pole on a breaker bar to shift the
>>> front sprocket nut. At one point the back wheel was off the ground.
>>
>>The rattle gun would have it sorted in a few seconds.
>
>Yes, it would. Which is why I said in another post I'll leave it to
>dealers in the future. Whilst I suffer from TAD[1] as much as the
>next WUN, I can't afford or justify a compressor and gun.
>
I tried using a nice big 1/2" drive air impact gun (1) on mine and it
wasn't having any of it. No doubt it would have moved if I'd had a
bigger compressor and a 1" drive gun on it but I haven't got either of
those.
>
>
>[1] Tool Acquisition Disorder.
The trouble really starts when you want to buy 'proper' tools rather
than toys.
(1) Calling them a rattle gun is like calling a hammer a bang bang. If
I went to the stores at a power station and asked for a rattle gun
they'd either not understand what I was asking for or start asking my
employer if I knew what I was doing.
Lozzo
> (1) Calling them a rattle gun is like calling a hammer a bang bang. If
> I went to the stores at a power station and asked for a rattle gun
> they'd either not understand what I was asking for or start asking my
> employer if I knew what I was doing.
As much as I prefer to call things by their correct name, the majority
of the mechanics/technicians in the motor trade call air impact drivers
rattle guns.
Andy Bonwick
>Andy Bonwick wrote:
>
>
>> (1) Calling them a rattle gun is like calling a hammer a bang bang. If
>> I went to the stores at a power station and asked for a rattle gun
>> they'd either not understand what I was asking for or start asking my
>> employer if I knew what I was doing.
>
>
>As much as I prefer to call things by their correct name, the majority
>of the mechanics/technicians in the motor trade call air impact drivers
>rattle guns.
>
Case proven.
steve auvache
<nos...@bonwick.me.uk> writes
>
>(1) Calling them a rattle gun is like calling a hammer a bang bang. If
>I went to the stores at a power station and asked for a rattle gun
>they'd either not understand what I was asking for or start asking my
>employer if I knew what I was doing.
See that is just fucking snobbery that is and forgetting the company you
are in.
If I went onto any BT stores and asked for some 81's I know exactly what
I would get but to you they would be wiring pliers. But the paperwork
would show them as Pliers Wiring No2 4.5"
--
steve auvache
VN750 Third gear has scope.
SR250 The SpazzTrakka.
Beav
"Nige" <de...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:7usgao...@mid.individual.net...
> Beav wrote:
>> "Pete Fisher" <Pe...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:kEk+GoFy...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk...
>>> In communiqu� <4hFSV6w7...@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk>, Wicked Uncle
>>> Nigel <w...@wicked-uncle-nigel.me.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>>>> Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Nige
>>>> <de...@btinternet.com> typed
>>>>> Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an
>>>>> angle
>>>>> grinder :)
>>>>>
>>>>> Any tips?
>>>>
>>>> Loosen the font sprocket nut *BEFORE* you cut the chain.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Indeed, though you can get away with it sometimes on a big, high
>>> compression, single. What would be your advice regarding locking
>>> everything up?
>>
>> A third foot on the brake pedal or (if all the sprox are being changed
>> like
>> they should be) stick a socket extention bar on the bottom run of the
>> chain
>> and rotate the back wheel until the bar jams into the rear sprocket.
>> Using a
>> rattler is far less of a burden for the job that a breaker bar and
>> (possibly) a length of scaff tubing.
>>
>>> I'm sure Nige is big enough to possibly adopt the foot on rear brake
>>> while
>>> leaning over the bike strategy, whereas I usually have to resort to
>>> jamming
>>> something suitable in an appropriate place.
>>
>> It's what I do if I don't have anyone with a foot going spare.
>
> Do i need any locking shit on the htreads when i refit the nut?
There should be a tabbed washer under the nut. Bend the tab back before you
try fitting a socket and bend it back when you've fitted the new sprocket.
No Loc-Tite.
--
Beav
VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19
Beav
> Pete Fisher wrote:
>>
>> I wonder how Nige is getting on?
>>
> SNAP FFS!
>
> Nowt i had was big enough, so i changed the undertray, what a fucking job,
> everything is in there.
>
> The cunt that had it before cut it down & made a cunt of it.
>
> The lock for the rear seat is a proper bog huggng ringreamer of a bastards
> fuckjuice to do.
>
> Oil & filter tomorrow, need to find the size of the fucking nut too.
How many fucking spanners don't you have Nige?
I reckon a trip to Halfrauds or Machine Mart is a ust for you.
The "trick" to a well maintained "anything" is having a decent set of tools
for the jobs you'll likely come across[1]
[1] Not in the usual Nige meaning.
Beav
"Ben" <b...@bensalesDOTME.uk> wrote in message
news:j1ako55gb06hm1meu...@4ax.com...
>>>
>>> On my GSXR750 I needed the chain on, a piece of scaffold pole between
>>> the spokes of the rear wheel and swing arm to lock that and then me
>>> standing on another bit of scaffold pole on a breaker bar to shift the
>>> front sprocket nut. At one point the back wheel was off the ground.
>>
>>The rattle gun would have it sorted in a few seconds.
>
> dealers in the future. Whilst I suffer from TAD[1] as much as the
> next WUN, I can't afford or justify a compressor and gun.
And it depends on the rattler too. A cheap rattler typically has around 250
torques[1], but a good (expensive) one is around 650 "undoing" torques.
[1] Thank you Mr Clarkson
Richard Wood
On 28 Feb 2010 09:18:38 GMT, Pip writ...
>
> We didn't really expect the thing to go up in the air - shoving it
> forwards is one thing, but vertically up a wall, with the front wheel
> locked is something else entirely. He looked a little worried ;-)
Aww, bless.
I bet it was all them stoppies wot did it. Those ZZR1100 aren't the
worlds lightest bikes.
--
frag
c...@nospam.netunix.com
>
> >>The rattle gun would have it sorted in a few seconds.
> >
> > Yes, it would. Which is why I said in another post I'll leave it to
> > dealers in the future. Whilst I suffer from TAD[1] as much as the
> > next WUN, I can't afford or justify a compressor and gun.
>
> And it depends on the rattler too. A cheap rattler typically has around 250
> torques[1], but a good (expensive) one is around 650 "undoing" torques.
Indeed, one of those jobs where only SnapOn is good enough.
And a decent compressor which can deliver 140 psi also helps.
The combination of these two represents an almost irresisible force for
any nut that you are likely to encounter in reality.
Mark Olson
> Beav <beavis....@ntlwoxorld.com> wrote:
>>>> The rattle gun would have it sorted in a few seconds.
>>> Yes, it would. Which is why I said in another post I'll leave it to
>>> dealers in the future. Whilst I suffer from TAD[1] as much as the
>>> next WUN, I can't afford or justify a compressor and gun.
>> And it depends on the rattler too. A cheap rattler typically has around 250
>> torques[1], but a good (expensive) one is around 650 "undoing" torques.
>
> Indeed, one of those jobs where only SnapOn is good enough.
> And a decent compressor which can deliver 140 psi also helps.
> The combination of these two represents an almost irresisible force for
> any nut that you are likely to encounter in reality.
Except in cases where it is difficult to rigidly immobilize the nut,
exactly like a countershaft sprocket nut- you have to rely on the chain
and the cush drive to be rigid, which they're not, exactly.
I needed a 3/4" drive FOAD air impact gun once to remove the crank pulley
nut on a Honda Civic. That was resorted to after three 1/2" drive guns,
a top-quality Ingersoll-Rand among them, didn't shift it. I don't think
I've ever seen a nut as tight as that except perhaps a VW beetle rear
axle nut.
c...@nospam.netunix.com
> c...@NOSPAM.netunix.com wrote:
> > Indeed, one of those jobs where only SnapOn is good enough.
> > And a decent compressor which can deliver 140 psi also helps.
> > The combination of these two represents an almost irresisible force for
> > any nut that you are likely to encounter in reality.
>
> Except in cases where it is difficult to rigidly immobilize the nut,
> exactly like a countershaft sprocket nut- you have to rely on the chain
> and the cush drive to be rigid, which they're not, exactly.
Just jam a bar between the chain and the sprocket and put the bike
in first gear. That should give you enough inertia for the rattle
gun to do its job.
It is not necessary to have the nut rigidly immobilised, you just
need sufficient inertia for the impacts to work against.
Champ
wrote:
>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
>grinder :)
>Any tips?
Count the links very carefully.
Then count them again.
--
Champ
We declare that the splendor of the world has been enriched by a new beauty: the beauty of speed.
ZX10R | Hayabusa | GPz750turbo
neal at champ dot org dot uk
Switters
> On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:30:43 -0000, "Nige" <de...@btinternet.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an
>>angle grinder :)
>
>>Any tips?
>
> Count the links very carefully.
>
> Then count them again.
Ah the old "measure twice, cut once".
platypus
"Switters" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9D2F866576E6...@188.40.43.245...
Although, as it turned out, twice wasn't enough.
Pete Fisher
platypus <mono...@blueyonder.co.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
I always measure mine (as I usually just by a standard length of chain)
by passing it round the sprockets after pushing the rear wheel as far
forward as it will go, then seeing where the join will be. But then, on
the hill climbers, I may be deviating from a standard pitch count as a
result of very significant gearing changes. If you can start the cut by
putting a pin extractor on the correct one with the chain in situ it's
hard to go wrong. Angle grinder wielders would have to mark it somehow.
Nige
> On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:30:43 -0000, "Nige" <de...@btinternet.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
>> grinder :)
>
>> Any tips?
>
> Count the links very carefully.
>
> Then count them again.
This DID chain was the right length for the R1, it even said so on the box
:)
Pip
> This DID chain was the right length for the R1, it even said so on
> the box :)
"This fucking chain fits an R1, you cuntflapping goatfelching arsewipe.
If it doesn't it'll be your fucking fault, you useless puddle of
mouldering gangbang cuntdribble".
--
Pip: B12
Gavin
> Champ wrote:
>> On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:30:43 -0000, "Nige" <de...@btinternet.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
>>> grinder :)
>>
>>> Any tips?
>>
>> Count the links very carefully.
>>
>> Then count them again.
>
> This DID chain was the right length for the R1, it even said so on the box :)
Im up gearing the 600, with a 525-47 on the rear rather than a 45.
Job for the weekend - I never get the 600 to top out in, well, top, so
a little extra acceleration can only help.
--
Gavin.
GSXR600K1
Twitter: http://twitter.com/gavin_wilby
Blog: http://www.stoof.co.uk
Pete Fisher
<gwilby...@stoof.co.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>On 2010-03-02 16:54:01 +0000, "Nige" <de...@btinternet.com> said:
>
>> Champ wrote:
>>> On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:30:43 -0000, "Nige" <de...@btinternet.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an
>>>>angle
>>>> grinder :)
>>>
>>>> Any tips?
>>> Count the links very carefully.
>>> Then count them again.
>> This DID chain was the right length for the R1, it even said so on
>>the box :)
>
>Im up gearing the 600, with a 525-47 on the rear rather than a 45.
>
>Job for the weekend - I never get the 600 to top out in, well, top, so
>a little extra acceleration can only help.
>
I fitted a rear sprocket with 2 extra teeth on the tart. Make it a bit
more lively, though it still wouldn't quite crack the ton through the
finish at Shelsley.
Gavin
> In communiqu� <hmjmmb$uao$1...@news.eternal-september.org>, Gavin
> <gwilby...@stoof.co.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>
> I fitted a rear sprocket with 2 extra teeth on the tart. Make it a bit
> more lively, though it still wouldn't quite crack the ton through the
> finish at Shelsley.
I hope it doesnt make it stupidly revvy, but I dont think so.
Ill have to work out a way of mounting the tomtom so I can work out the
speedo too.
Champ
wrote:
>Im up gearing the 600, with a 525-47 on the rear rather than a 45.
>Job for the weekend - I never get the 600 to top out in, well, top, so
>a little extra acceleration can only help.
Not even on the run down from the Creg?
Gavin
> On Tue, 2 Mar 2010 18:50:51 +0000, Gavin <gwilby...@stoof.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
>> Im up gearing the 600, with a 525-47 on the rear rather than a 45.
>
>> Job for the weekend - I never get the 600 to top out in, well, top, so
>> a little extra acceleration can only help.
>
> Not even on the run down from the Creg?
Nah - I get closer on the mile TBH,
Highest Iv seen is about 13,000 in top at an indicated 167 MPH.
Beav
"Mark Olson" <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote in message
news:OumdnRwJDd-hpRbW...@posted.visi...
> c...@NOSPAM.netunix.com wrote:
>> Beav <beavis....@ntlwoxorld.com> wrote:
>>>>> The rattle gun would have it sorted in a few seconds.
>>>> Yes, it would. Which is why I said in another post I'll leave it to
>>>> dealers in the future. Whilst I suffer from TAD[1] as much as the
>>>> next WUN, I can't afford or justify a compressor and gun.
>>> And it depends on the rattler too. A cheap rattler typically has around
>>> 250 torques[1], but a good (expensive) one is around 650 "undoing"
>>> torques.
>>
>> Indeed, one of those jobs where only SnapOn is good enough.
>> And a decent compressor which can deliver 140 psi also helps.
>> The combination of these two represents an almost irresisible force for
>> any nut that you are likely to encounter in reality.
>
> Except in cases where it is difficult to rigidly immobilize the nut,
> exactly like a countershaft sprocket nut- you have to rely on the chain
> and the cush drive to be rigid, which they're not, exactly.
They are if you stop the sprocket moving before the force reaches the cush
drive, hence my saying a bar shoved into the bottom of the chain run and
jammed directly up against the sprocket.
>
> I needed a 3/4" drive FOAD air impact gun once to remove the crank pulley
> nut on a Honda Civic. That was resorted to after three 1/2" drive guns,
> a top-quality Ingersoll-Rand among them, didn't shift it. I don't think
> I've ever seen a nut as tight as that except perhaps a VW beetle rear
> axle nut.
They're properly tight when you have to use an AG to remove the things.
steve auvache
l...@ntlwoxorld.com> writes
>
>They're properly tight when you have to use an AG to remove the things.
This statement is, of course, utter fucking bollox.
The item merely needs to be present in order to employ an Angle Grinder
to remove it. The degree of fixation is irrelevant.
--
steve auvache
VN750 Third gear has scope.
SR250 The SpazzTrakka (Improved).
Beav
"steve auvache" <dont...@thecow.me.uk> wrote in message
news:DagX8WEH...@auvache.force9.co.uk...
> In article <agejn.303181$5n1.2...@newsfe01.ams2>, Beav <beavis.origina
> l...@ntlwoxorld.com> writes
>>
>>They're properly tight when you have to use an AG to remove the things.
>
> This statement is, of course, utter fucking bollox.
>
> The item merely needs to be present in order to employ an Angle Grinder
> to remove it. The degree of fixation is irrelevant.
>
Heh, very true Steve.
Lady Nina
>On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:30:43 -0000, "Nige" <de...@btinternet.com>
>wrote:
>
>>Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle
>>grinder :)
>
>>Any tips?
>
>Count the links very carefully.
>
>Then count them again.
<pats on head>
--
Lady Nina