Suzuki calipers Part II
Dr Ivan D. Reid
the pistons all the way back, and that gave enough room for the inner
bleed nipple to clear the rim. I jammed a 4 mm Allen key between the pads
in the left caliper, wrapped a rag around the master cylinder reservoir,
and forced the pistons back in the right caliper -- it popped over the
disk with virtually no problem. With that in place, the left caliper was
similarly easily restored to its rightful position.
--
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Brunel University. Ivan...@brunel.ac.uk Room 40-1-B12, CERN
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Mark Olson
>
> Disconcertingly, the workshop Manuel was right, I just had to push
> the pistons all the way back, and that gave enough room for the inner
> bleed nipple to clear the rim. I jammed a 4 mm Allen key between the pads
> in the left caliper, wrapped a rag around the master cylinder reservoir,
> and forced the pistons back in the right caliper -- it popped over the
> disk with virtually no problem. With that in place, the left caliper was
> similarly easily restored to its rightful position.
Isn't that what I told you to do?
And don't call me Manuel.
--
Mark '01 SV650S '81 CM400T '99 EX250-F13 DoD #959635 RFB #2
Battleax
"Dr Ivan D. Reid" <Ivan...@brunel.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:slrnbrcbg6.e...@loki.brunel.ac.uk...
Don't forget to pump them up once installed.
B
Dr Ivan D. Reid
wrote in <tLOdnVs2GbK...@magma.ca>:
> "Dr Ivan D. Reid" <Ivan...@brunel.ac.uk> wrote in message
> news:slrnbrcbg6.e...@loki.brunel.ac.uk...
>> Disconcertingly, the workshop Manuel was right, I just had to push
>> the pistons all the way back, and that gave enough room for the inner
>> bleed nipple to clear the rim. I jammed a 4 mm Allen key between the pads
>> in the left caliper, wrapped a rag around the master cylinder reservoir,
>> and forced the pistons back in the right caliper -- it popped over the
>> disk with virtually no problem. With that in place, the left caliper was
>> similarly easily restored to its rightful position.
> Don't forget to pump them up once installed.
Least of my problems -- now the mudguard won't go on with the
wheel in place -- and probably not even with it out and the forks in place.
I'm gonna have to separate it from the fork brace, and again one of the
bloody button-head screws Suzuki uses already had its hex recess rounded
out trying to take it off earlier. They appear to screw into Nylok nuts
under the 'guard, too. :-(
The Older Gentleman
> Don't forget to pump them up once installed.
Oh yes, yes, indeed.
I made that mistake once, and once only, a very long time ago, after a
front tyre change on a Suzuki GS400.
It's amazing how you can get wanker's cramp from frantically squeezing a
brake lever.
--
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Dr Ivan D. Reid
On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 12:41:48 +0000 (UTC), wrote in <slrnbres4c.2...@loki.brunel.ac.uk>:
> Least of my problems -- now the mudguard won't go on with the
> wheel in place -- and probably not even with it out and the forks in place.
> I'm gonna have to separate it from the fork brace, and again one of the
> bloody button-head screws Suzuki uses already had its hex recess rounded
> out trying to take it off earlier. They appear to screw into Nylok nuts
> under the 'guard, too. :-(
They aren't really Nylok, but have distorted threads about where
the nylon insert would be on the real thing. Ran a 5 mmm tap through them
to clear them up, with the intention of using locking compound on
assembly. Paid over the odds to www.inoxfasteners.co.uk for four of their
button-head fairing bolts that are the right size, and waited for fair
weather...
This arrived today, so out with the screws, allen keys, and an 8
mm combination spanner... But there's no way I can get my hand up between
the wheel and guard to hold the washer and nut in place while doing up the
guard mounting screws. Took out the brace mounting screws but the extra 1
or 2 cm vertical movement that this affords is still not enough. Do I
have to take out the wheel again? This would, of course, entail
dismounting the calipers yet once more...
After much head scratching, I have now used copious amounts of
superglue to glue the washers and nuts in place under the mudguard, just
in time to hear the heavy rain bucketing down outside.
If all goes well, it's just another 5 minutes to complete the
job, but now the battery seems to be refusing to take any charge from the
Oximiser. Halfords have a suitable battery in stock if it won't jump
start when I move house later this week...