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Bicycle maintenance woes
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Adam Lea
May 12, 2012, 11:43:14 AM5/12/12
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This last week has been like a Herculean effort to do what should have
been some routine maintenance on my Birdy.
First, needed to replace the rear rim, decided to let LBS do that which
they did fine. Whilst the wheel was off, decided to take the opportunity
to clean the cassette and rear derailleur (via partial dismantling).
When I got the wheel back and put everything back together again as I
tightened the bolt on the bell crank unit (which is a little box which
goes on the end of the axle and where the hub gear cable goes into) it
suddenly went loose and I couldn't tighten it. It seems I had stripped
the threads, which, given I wasn't putting that much torque into it and
I have done this before several times without incident, I suspect that
there was some corrosion responsible. The only option is to get a
replacement bell crank unit, and in the meantime bodge a repair by
cable-tying the current bell crank unit onto the axle.
Ok, evrything fine now until I try and put the chain back on, seemed to
struggle a bit more than usual and there seemed to be chain suck upon
back peddling. Tried putting some more lubricant into the derailleur
moving parts and checking the gears were correctly aligned, and left it
until next morning when I was intending to use it to get to work.
Set off next morning and about two miles down the road noticed the
drivetrain sounded rough and the chain suck issue was still there upon
back pedalling although after a second or so would back pedal freely
again. Decided to keep going and look at it sometime after I got to
work. Got about two miles from work then one of the jockey wheels came
off (the bolt appeared to have unscrewed) which then caused the whole
drivetrain to lock up. Had to walk and free-wheel the rest of the way.
Bugger, I had to get to Dorking that evening, and the nearest suitable
public transport is five miles away. Couldn't get a lift from anyone so
decided to bodge a repair by taking the rear derailleur off, shortening
the chain and wrapping it around a sprocket closest in line with the
chainring. I know I am going to have problems with chain slackness but
at least I'll have some drive. This worked but not very well, what
happens is that the general roughness of the road causes the chain to
jump to a smaller sprocket, which makes it even more slack then it just
skips. Managed to organise a lift from a friend (who was the reason I
was going to Dorking) from Ockley station (just under six miles away) so
just had to get there. Thankfully it is mostly downhill and flat. I was
able to cycle gently at around 10-12 mph on the flat but had to walk up
any incline. Managed to get to the station fine.
When I eventually got back home I took another look at the rear
derailleur. Part of it seemed to be oriented 180 degrees out of phase.
There is a little lump of metal on the derailleur which acts as a stop
for the arm (with the jockey wheels), somehow the arm had managed to end
up on the wrong side of this stop. Managed to get it back in place and,
after purchasing some new jockey wheels put it back together again.
Next task, replace the inner cable. Should be easy, just unclamp, then
pull it out through the shifter. Unfortunately I forgot about clipping
the end of the inner cable until it was to late so the inner cable got
stuck inside the outer cable and wouldn't budge. Had to remove both the
outer and inner cable and buy a new outer cable as well. Unfortunately
the cable I was sold was too short so had to go back to the LBS and swap
it. Putting a new rear gear cable on a Birdy, if you have had to remove
both cables, is a right pain in the arse as you have to thread the cable
through a small hole in the frame, and try to persuade it to come out
through another small hole nearly two feet away, whilst trying to avoid
the other two cables running through the inside of the frame. Took me 20
minutes to do it last time. Got lucky this time, managed to get it
through in under two minutes. All I have to do now is connect the inner
cable. Found the inner cable I bought is too short, bugger this, I'm not
cycling to the LBS again, I'm going to the nearby Halfords to get one.
Finally got the inner cable installed now have to put the chain on so I
can fine tune the gearing. Of course, the chain is too short because I
shortened it and the extra links have fallen out through a hole in my
panniers. Tried some links from another chain I had lying around but
couldn't push the pin through, seems that pin thickness's can vary
slightly. After a bit of searching did find an unused chain which is now
on the bike so everything is now set up and ready to ride.
Now all I have to do is wait for the replacement bell clamp unit and a
new shifter to arrive. What can possibly go wrong? :-)
been some routine maintenance on my Birdy.
First, needed to replace the rear rim, decided to let LBS do that which
they did fine. Whilst the wheel was off, decided to take the opportunity
to clean the cassette and rear derailleur (via partial dismantling).
When I got the wheel back and put everything back together again as I
tightened the bolt on the bell crank unit (which is a little box which
goes on the end of the axle and where the hub gear cable goes into) it
suddenly went loose and I couldn't tighten it. It seems I had stripped
the threads, which, given I wasn't putting that much torque into it and
I have done this before several times without incident, I suspect that
there was some corrosion responsible. The only option is to get a
replacement bell crank unit, and in the meantime bodge a repair by
cable-tying the current bell crank unit onto the axle.
Ok, evrything fine now until I try and put the chain back on, seemed to
struggle a bit more than usual and there seemed to be chain suck upon
back peddling. Tried putting some more lubricant into the derailleur
moving parts and checking the gears were correctly aligned, and left it
until next morning when I was intending to use it to get to work.
Set off next morning and about two miles down the road noticed the
drivetrain sounded rough and the chain suck issue was still there upon
back pedalling although after a second or so would back pedal freely
again. Decided to keep going and look at it sometime after I got to
work. Got about two miles from work then one of the jockey wheels came
off (the bolt appeared to have unscrewed) which then caused the whole
drivetrain to lock up. Had to walk and free-wheel the rest of the way.
Bugger, I had to get to Dorking that evening, and the nearest suitable
public transport is five miles away. Couldn't get a lift from anyone so
decided to bodge a repair by taking the rear derailleur off, shortening
the chain and wrapping it around a sprocket closest in line with the
chainring. I know I am going to have problems with chain slackness but
at least I'll have some drive. This worked but not very well, what
happens is that the general roughness of the road causes the chain to
jump to a smaller sprocket, which makes it even more slack then it just
skips. Managed to organise a lift from a friend (who was the reason I
was going to Dorking) from Ockley station (just under six miles away) so
just had to get there. Thankfully it is mostly downhill and flat. I was
able to cycle gently at around 10-12 mph on the flat but had to walk up
any incline. Managed to get to the station fine.
When I eventually got back home I took another look at the rear
derailleur. Part of it seemed to be oriented 180 degrees out of phase.
There is a little lump of metal on the derailleur which acts as a stop
for the arm (with the jockey wheels), somehow the arm had managed to end
up on the wrong side of this stop. Managed to get it back in place and,
after purchasing some new jockey wheels put it back together again.
Next task, replace the inner cable. Should be easy, just unclamp, then
pull it out through the shifter. Unfortunately I forgot about clipping
the end of the inner cable until it was to late so the inner cable got
stuck inside the outer cable and wouldn't budge. Had to remove both the
outer and inner cable and buy a new outer cable as well. Unfortunately
the cable I was sold was too short so had to go back to the LBS and swap
it. Putting a new rear gear cable on a Birdy, if you have had to remove
both cables, is a right pain in the arse as you have to thread the cable
through a small hole in the frame, and try to persuade it to come out
through another small hole nearly two feet away, whilst trying to avoid
the other two cables running through the inside of the frame. Took me 20
minutes to do it last time. Got lucky this time, managed to get it
through in under two minutes. All I have to do now is connect the inner
cable. Found the inner cable I bought is too short, bugger this, I'm not
cycling to the LBS again, I'm going to the nearby Halfords to get one.
Finally got the inner cable installed now have to put the chain on so I
can fine tune the gearing. Of course, the chain is too short because I
shortened it and the extra links have fallen out through a hole in my
panniers. Tried some links from another chain I had lying around but
couldn't push the pin through, seems that pin thickness's can vary
slightly. After a bit of searching did find an unused chain which is now
on the bike so everything is now set up and ready to ride.
Now all I have to do is wait for the replacement bell clamp unit and a
new shifter to arrive. What can possibly go wrong? :-)
Ian Smith
May 12, 2012, 12:34:44 PM5/12/12
to
Adam Lea
May 12, 2012, 3:08:59 PM5/12/12
to
On 12/05/12 17:34, Ian Smith wrote:
>
> Blimey. Do you live in Murphylaw Street, Unluckton?
>
I almost forgot, it seems that outer cable thicknesses can vary slightly
>
> Blimey. Do you live in Murphylaw Street, Unluckton?
>
so when I cut the cable to size and put the end cap on it was too wide
to slide into the barrel adjustor. I had to bodge that by taking the old
cable end cap, cutting a short slit lengthways then pushing that over
the end of the cable, which sort of works but not very well. Looks like
I may have to get a new barrel adjustor which is wide enough to take the
new outer cable.
One good thing is coming out of this, I'm getting practice in using
initiative with maintenance issues which should help with any roadside
breakdowns in the future. :-)
Message has been deleted
Message has been deleted
Adam Lea
May 12, 2012, 4:22:06 PM5/12/12
to
On 12/05/12 20:32, Tosspot wrote:
>
> Never done this yet, but looking at a mates concealed wiring a drilling
> session is in order, but I thought a loop of wire/string was the order
> of the day. Or is it still a right sod?
>
Never heard of the loop of wire/string method, how does it work? I have
in the past pushed the cable in far enough to get it to the other end of
the frame, then used a paper clip bent into a hook shape to hook the
cable through the hole.
Normally if you have to replace both cables you replace one at a time,
so that you always have one cable in place as a guide for the other, but
I couldn't do that this time, or the last time.
>> All I have to do now is connect the inner
>> cable. Found the inner cable I bought is too short, bugger this, I'm not
>> cycling to the LBS again, I'm going to the nearby Halfords to get one.
>> Finally got the inner cable installed now have to put the chain on so I
>> can fine tune the gearing. Of course, the chain is too short because I
>> shortened it and the extra links have fallen out through a hole in my
>> panniers. Tried some links from another chain I had lying around but
>> couldn't push the pin through, seems that pin thickness's can vary
>> slightly. After a bit of searching did find an unused chain which is now
>> on the bike so everything is now set up and ready to ride.
>
> Ok, I give in. What *EXACTLY* did you do wrong in a previous life?
A bit better than when I started. I now have two new rims, new jockey
wheels, new chain and new gear cables installed, so I should have that
new bike silky smooth gear changing experience, for a little while
anyway. Oh, and the derailleur, cassette and chainring are nice and clean.
One issue with the Birdy is that I tend to go through gear cables much
faster than on my other bikes. I assume this is because the derailleur
is much closer to the ground so more of the road gunge and surface water
gets into the cable through the barrel adjuster causing corrosion.
>
> Never done this yet, but looking at a mates concealed wiring a drilling
> session is in order, but I thought a loop of wire/string was the order
> of the day. Or is it still a right sod?
>
Never heard of the loop of wire/string method, how does it work? I have
in the past pushed the cable in far enough to get it to the other end of
the frame, then used a paper clip bent into a hook shape to hook the
cable through the hole.
Normally if you have to replace both cables you replace one at a time,
so that you always have one cable in place as a guide for the other, but
I couldn't do that this time, or the last time.
>> All I have to do now is connect the inner
>> cable. Found the inner cable I bought is too short, bugger this, I'm not
>> cycling to the LBS again, I'm going to the nearby Halfords to get one.
>> Finally got the inner cable installed now have to put the chain on so I
>> can fine tune the gearing. Of course, the chain is too short because I
>> shortened it and the extra links have fallen out through a hole in my
>> panniers. Tried some links from another chain I had lying around but
>> couldn't push the pin through, seems that pin thickness's can vary
>> slightly. After a bit of searching did find an unused chain which is now
>> on the bike so everything is now set up and ready to ride.
>
>
>> Now all I have to do is wait for the replacement bell clamp unit and a
>> new shifter to arrive. What can possibly go wrong? :-)
>
> So can I summarise? All that to get back to where you started?
>> Now all I have to do is wait for the replacement bell clamp unit and a
>> new shifter to arrive. What can possibly go wrong? :-)
>
A bit better than when I started. I now have two new rims, new jockey
wheels, new chain and new gear cables installed, so I should have that
new bike silky smooth gear changing experience, for a little while
anyway. Oh, and the derailleur, cassette and chainring are nice and clean.
One issue with the Birdy is that I tend to go through gear cables much
faster than on my other bikes. I assume this is because the derailleur
is much closer to the ground so more of the road gunge and surface water
gets into the cable through the barrel adjuster causing corrosion.
Rob Morley
May 13, 2012, 4:14:12 AM5/13/12
to
On Sat, 12 May 2012 20:32:34 +0100
Tosspot <Frank...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Never done this yet, but looking at a mates concealed wiring a
> drilling session is in order, but I thought a loop of wire/string was
> the order of the day. Or is it still a right sod?
>
I used to use an old spoke to catch the end of the casing and guide it
Tosspot <Frank...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Never done this yet, but looking at a mates concealed wiring a
> drilling session is in order, but I thought a loop of wire/string was
> the order of the day. Or is it still a right sod?
>
out, usually pretty easy.
Message has been deleted
Ian Smith
May 13, 2012, 4:51:26 PM5/13/12
to
go <touches wood>. ;-)
Ian Jackson
May 13, 2012, 6:37:36 PM5/13/12
to
In article <jtWdnYrMRLaYGDPS...@bt.com>,
Oh dear. That sounds utterly nightmarish. Sympathy and good luck
with the remaining opportunities for total doom ...
--
Ian Jackson personal email: <ijac...@chiark.greenend.org.uk>
These opinions are my own. http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~ijackson/
PGP2 key 1024R/0x23f5addb, fingerprint 5906F687 BD03ACAD 0D8E602E FCF37657
Adam Lea <lea...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>This last week has been like a Herculean effort to do what should have
>been some routine maintenance on my Birdy.
>
>[snip tale of woe]
>This last week has been like a Herculean effort to do what should have
>been some routine maintenance on my Birdy.
>
Oh dear. That sounds utterly nightmarish. Sympathy and good luck
with the remaining opportunities for total doom ...
--
Ian Jackson personal email: <ijac...@chiark.greenend.org.uk>
These opinions are my own. http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~ijackson/
PGP2 key 1024R/0x23f5addb, fingerprint 5906F687 BD03ACAD 0D8E602E FCF37657
xpzzzz
May 14, 2012, 9:56:59 AM5/14/12
to
On Sun, 13 May 2012 09:14:12 +0100, Rob Morley wrote:
> I used to use an old spoke to catch the end of the casing and guide it
> out, usually pretty easy.
Use a bit of string and a vacuum at the other hole.
> I used to use an old spoke to catch the end of the casing and guide it
> out, usually pretty easy.
Phil Cook
May 14, 2012, 11:11:35 AM5/14/12
to
--
Phil Cook
Alan Braggins
May 14, 2012, 3:19:34 PM5/14/12
to
piece of thread, or fishing line or similar.
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