Thermaskirt ? Anyone tried it?
www.GymRatZ.co.uk
http://www.discreteheat.co.uk/downloads/technical/discreteheat.pdf
I am trying to get my head around the temp. differential between flow
and return as both pipes are thermally one and the same so heat will be
dumped to the return pipe at entry/exit point which seems a bit wrong
when trying to acheive a 20 degree f/r differential on a low temp 60/40
system.
I have dropped them a line but thought I would see if anyone here has
dabbled with this product.
Cheers
Pete
dennis@home
"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" <discount-fitn...@gym.shop.com> wrote in
message news:g0fs96$c66$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
Its like the Mira stuff.. you don't want a big drop in temp, if you do you
need a lot more skirting as half of it will be cold(er) and half hot, the
same as radiators need to be bigger for a system with a condensing boiler.
To make it work with a 20C differential I think you will need to feed in at
one end and out at the other and not have a flow and return in the skirting.
Condensing boilers make heating choices somewhat restricted due to the lower
operating temps.
www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> Just stumbled across "thermaskirt"
> http://www.discreteheat.co.uk/downloads/technical/discreteheat.pdf
^^^^
Apologies, forgot to say it's a download of their .pdf brochure as if
gave most info.
Pete
www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> To make it work with a 20C differential I think you will need to feed in
> at one end and out at the other and not have a flow and return in the
> skirting.
That was my initial thought and mailed the manufacturer the temp. the
technical answer came back as..
"If you work on around 1degC/m with the room at 21 at a flow rate of
56gm/sec you wont be far wrong."
I'll do a bit more delving and if I go with it, no doubt will post my
findings in due course.
Our boiler is weather compensated so flow temp is usually below 60
degres anyway, and our UFH in the living area only achieves a 10 degree
temp. drop at it's best so trying to acheive a 20 degree differencial is
more a case of the ultimate goal rather than a practical reallity.
:¬)
Pete
Dave Plowman (News)
Looks interesting. How does it compare cost wise with rads ignoring
installation cost?
> Cheers
> Pete
--
*Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> Looks interesting. How does it compare cost wise with rads ignoring
> installation cost?
On a par with UFH but with a fraction of the install costs or disruption.
I have been given a rough figure of £35/metre with an average bedroom
going in at around £400 or so.
Don't know if it's inc. or exc. VAT just waiting for an answer back.
I'll let you know.
Pete
dennis@home
"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" <discount-fitn...@gym.shop.com> wrote in
message news:g0gtau$p7q$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
No need if the temp is below 60C anyway, it just has to be cool enough that
the exhaust gases can condense on the coolest part of the heat exchanger.
You do need a lot more rad surface at 60C though, about double what you need
at 90C to get the same heat out.
stuart noble
> In article <g0fs96$c66$1...@registered.motzarella.org>,
> www.GymRatZ.co.uk <discount-fitn...@gym.shop.com> wrote:
>> Just stumbled across "thermaskirt"
>> http://www.discreteheat.co.uk/downloads/technical/discreteheat.pdf
>
>> I am trying to get my head around the temp. differential between flow
>> and return as both pipes are thermally one and the same so heat will be
>> dumped to the return pipe at entry/exit point which seems a bit wrong
>> when trying to acheive a 20 degree f/r differential on a low temp 60/40
>> system.
>
>> I have dropped them a line but thought I would see if anyone here has
>> dabbled with this product.
>
> Looks interesting. How does it compare cost wise with rads ignoring
> installation cost?
>
>> Cheers
>> Pete
>
I've worked in offices with skirting level heating, and everyone
complained about their feet aching. The combination of underfloor
heating and a solid floor I don't find comfortable either, so maybe it's
just me.
I don't know how it differs in principle from the system used in some
60s council flats where the pipes ran all round the room and were
covered by a clip-on skirting with an open vent at the top
www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> No need if the temp is below 60C anyway, it just has to be cool enough
> that the exhaust gases can condense on the coolest part of the heat
> exchanger. You do need a lot more rad surface at 60C though, about
> double what you need at 90C to get the same heat out.
We'd be alright on that score then as our bedrooms are downstairs and
pretty much under ground. Even in that really cold winter a couple of
years back we didn't have any heating in the downstairs bedrooms and
they never dropped to less than 10 degrees, so it's not got to achieve a
21 degree room temp in a typical "cold" house.
I think, judging by the good woman's reaction we will almost certainly
be giving Thermaskirt a go in 3 of the 4 bedrooms and the hallway.
Time will tell as to how well it performs.
:¬)
Cheers
Pete
www.GymRatZ.co.uk
> I've worked in offices with skirting level heating, and everyone
> complained about their feet aching. The combination of underfloor
> heating and a solid floor I don't find comfortable either, so maybe it's
> just me.
We have UFH and wood floor in the living part of the house and it's
definatelybetter than the original set-up of 2 huge radiators and really
thick carpet that was here when we bought the house.#
There rads seemed to create a _lot_ of convection draughts.
I think it my just be you.
:¬)
> I don't know how it differs in principle from the system used in some
> 60s council flats where the pipes ran all round the room and were
> covered by a clip-on skirting with an open vent at the top
Difference is that the skirting _is_ the radiator relying on radiated
heat and virtually no convected heat and the material allegedly
conducts heat 5x more efficiently than steel.
So the info. says.
I would have thought the pipes behing clip-on skirting was no more than
a quick way of running pipes without lifting boards etc, with the added
advantage of a bit of heat out the top. As a guess.
Cheers
Pete
stuart noble
But maybe a reasonable solution for solid floors. I can't remember
whether it was the only heat source or whether they had rads as well.
Maybe it would be cheaper to run copper pipes and cover them with an
equivalent alloy skirting (if such a thing exists).
Ed Sirett
This looks like the latest version of skirting heating. The costs don't
seem favourable.
It will work better in smaller rooms where there is a better wall:floor
ratio.
There is something to be said about having a specific source of heat even
if the total heat transfer is the same.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
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Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Dave Plowman (News)
Ed Sirett <e...@makewrite.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> There is something to be said about having a specific source of heat
> even if the total heat transfer is the same.
In what way, Ed? I don't sit close enough to any rad in any room to get
radiant heat from it.
--
*I finally got my head together, now my body is falling apart.
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk
>> There is something to be said about having a specific source of heat
>> even if the total heat transfer is the same.
>
> In what way, Ed? I don't sit close enough to any rad in any room to get
> radiant heat from it.
You always need something to hang your wet clothes/towels/shoes on, and I
remember sitting with my back against the radiator as a kid.
:¬)
--
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fred
<discount-fitn...@gym.shop.com> writes
just a big convector with the surface area spread about the room a bit.
Ok radiant heat a bit more than a finned rad but still 60% convection?
Cost and maintainability worry me, much as surface mounted trunking,
straight lines are no problem but it gets a bit complex at corners where
precise cutting and corner pieces (kits) are required. I see that joints
and corners use double O-ring seals but they are on oval surfaces and so
are going to be proprietary and so subject to long term cost and
availability problems.
In summary I'd say great in principle but be aware of the system and
cost shortfalls before installing.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs
Doctor Drivel
"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" <discount-fitn...@gym.shop.com> wrote in
message news:g0fs96$c66$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
A number of makers have tried this over the years. They appear OK, but
those I saw looked naff on the skirting corners. These may be better at
that. Depending on price a viable alternative to UFH, but big upheaval in
the house as all skirtings are removed and the decorations too.
Doctor Drivel
"fred" <n...@for.mail> wrote in message news:sBM7sHC+4JLIFwXp@y.z...
I know of a guy who was a good woodworker. He used very think MDF, about an
inch thick if I recall, and made his own 6 inch high skirtings, cutting
channels in it longways with a router and installed 12mm plastic pipe in it.
There were no joints behind skirtings. I suggested all the pipes go back to
a central point manifold - just like UFH. He used the non-barrier plastic
pipe as it was more flexible. I again suggested getting all the ferrous out
of the system if he is doing this. He installed a bronze pump and brass
towel rail and filled with X-100.
Behind the skirtings he installed some insulation. It worked well. Slow to
heat up but worked well. It was a very cheap installation and not that time
consuming as he had a proper saw/router table. He had to replace most of the
skirtings anyhow so killed a few birds with one stone. The joints at corner
were perfect and you would never know that the skirting heated up. His house
was triple glazed and well insulated too with cavity wall insulation and
over a foot in the loft.
Ed Sirett
> In article <g0hqi4$fgm$1$8302...@news.demon.co.uk>,
> Ed Sirett <e...@makewrite.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>> There is something to be said about having a specific source of heat
>> even if the total heat transfer is the same.
>
> In what way, Ed? I don't sit close enough to any rad in any room to get
> radiant heat from it.
You're probably right but from a customer relations POV having something
hot and nearly untouchable in each room is a plus.
geoff
<kill...@invalid.invalid> writes
>
>"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" <discount-fitn...@gym.shop.com> wrote in
>message news:g0fs96$c66$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
>> Just stumbled across "thermaskirt"
>> http://www.discreteheat.co.uk/downloads/technical/discreteheat.pdf
>>
>> I am trying to get my head around the temp. differential between flow
>>and return as both pipes are thermally one and the same so heat will
>>be dumped to the return pipe at entry/exit point which seems a bit
>>wrong when trying to acheive a 20 degree f/r differential on a low
>>temp 60/40 system.
>>
>> I have dropped them a line but thought I would see if anyone here has
>>dabbled with this product.
>
>A number of makers have tried this over the years. They appear OK, but
>those I saw looked naff on the skirting corners.
prolly because you used a hacksaw to cut them
--
geoff
Dave Plowman (News)
Doctor Drivel <kill...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> I know of a guy who was a good woodworker. He used very think MDF,
> about an inch thick if I recall, and made his own 6 inch high
> skirtings, cutting channels in it longways with a router and installed
> 12mm plastic pipe in it.
I find it hard to believe that would have produced any useful heat at all.
The system in question uses aluminium skirting.
--
*Hard work pays off in the future. Laziness pays off now *
Doctor Drivel
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4fa0988...@davenoise.co.uk...
> In article <g0jkbe$pv7$1...@registered.motzarella.org>,
> Doctor Drivel <kill...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> I know of a guy who was a good woodworker. He used very think MDF,
>> about an inch thick if I recall, and made his own 6 inch high
>> skirtings, cutting channels in it longways with a router and installed
>> 12mm plastic pipe in it.
>
> I find it hard to believe that would have produced any useful heat at all.
> The system in question uses aluminium skirting.
Three pipes did. Slow to warm up but worked.
Doctor Drivel
"geoff" <ra...@kateda.org> wrote in message
news:98NULTFK...@ntlworld.com...
Maxie, I felt like using a chain saw on them. You don't know how I felt
when I saw the daffiness. A man like you, of finesse, poise and who knows
the words of "I will survive" and does the Laughing Policeman, would have
been totally shocked. The colour of the skirtings would never have matched
your frock.